Classic belly-warmers

GOOD OL’ MEATLOAF  

this three pound loaf feeds four to six

My mom wasn’t the only one influential with my cooking understanding.  Dad was a more realist mentality, cooking the easiest and most efficient way, with as many short-cuts as possible.  BBQ, fried eggs and toast, carving turkey and meatloaf were his areas of expertise.  Hey, I didn’t complain, he had good ideas, which usually came from his golfing buddies and friends (which meant they were tested throughout our neighborhood first).

For his meatloaf, he swore by mixing hamburger with Jimmy Dean prepared sausage.  He said the flavors, seasonings and fat flavor were already included in the mix, and all you had to do was cook it.  Made sense.  I’ll take his basic recipe and ramp it up just a bit.  Personally, I love vegetables and bacon in my meatloaf.  That said, it’s about the same as his otherwise.  For a sauce topper, most folks use ketchup, but Dad loved Lowry’s ‘Sweet and Sour’ BBQ sauce (bottled), which he’d mix with garlic powder and ketchup.  It works for me!

Preheat oven to 375̊

Tools:  baking sheet or broad casserole pan/dish, large mixing bowl, food processor, saute pan, cutting board/knife

Prep:  rough chop one stalk celery, one small peeled onion, half a pound mushrooms, several cloves garlic, a small carrot – and place in the food processor (they can be hand-diced, but it’s a bit of work) and pulse to a large ‘relish’.  Gently saute on medium to medium-high, in a combo of butter and oil, with a sprinkling of salt and sugar till rendered soft and beginning to caramelize nicely – about ten to fifteen minutes.  Next add the dried spices and herbs and let ‘bloom’ - or come to a good aroma.  Remove and let cool (very important - raw vegetables will NOT cook to a nice finish inside the loaf).

In the mixing bowl, blend two pounds cold ground chuck or sirloin with a half pound ‘log’ of your favorite breakfast prepared uncooked sausage blend.  Use a fork to slice/mash/fold together without bringing it up in heat.  Leave it all ‘open’ in a crumble for later ingredient mixing.

Ingredients     

            2     lbs medium ground chuck, sirloin, cold

                         (no more than 20% fat, 15% is best)

            ½    lb prepared breakfast type ground sausage blend

                         (like the aforementioned Jimmy Dean)

            1     tsp each ground dried basil, oregano, thyme

            ½    tsp dried ground sage

1       egg, beaten

1       tbs Worcestershire sauce (mixed with egg)

            1     tsp hot sauce  or ¼ tsp cayenne, (more if you like),

                        mixed with Worcestershire sauce and egg

            Splash milk (mixed with egg, Worcestershire sauce

                        and hot sauce)

            ¼    cup unseasoned bread crumbs (try homemade: 
                        grind two slices bread in processor till med-fine 
                        crumb, saute gently in med-hot pan and a tiny bit 
                        of oil/butter till lightly golden or bake several slices

of bread in a cool (200̊ F) oven till very firm and

crisp, barely colored, about 20 to 30 minutes. 

Break up into chunks and grind in the processor

till a med-fine crumb and use as recipe crumbs

instead of store-bought, saving the rest in a well-

sealed container)            

            The prepared veggie relish, cooled
           ½    tsp each salt and pepper

          4-6    slices oven-firmed bread slices (like mentioned above),
                        unbroken

              TOPPING SAUCES

           ½    cup favorite BBQ sauce/ketchup blend (like the

                        aforementioned Lowry’s ‘Sweet and Sour’ BBQ

                        sauce) plus fresh or powdered garlic or ketchup/Hoisin
                        sauce blend or 2 tbs tomato paste with
                        2 tbs brown sugar and 2 tbs balsamic vinegar plus
                        2 tbs rice or wine vinegar plus a tsp of fresh minced 
                        or powdered ginger (fresh is best!),  Blend well. 

                       

Preparation:  Carefully fold all the upper listed ingredients together in the mixing bowl.  If you use your hands, the body temperature warmth will compromise the texture of the meat - so as much as I love to use my hands, a fork or potato masher may be the best tool.  If you choose to use your hands, just be sure to mix quickly and pretty thoroughly – so stay within your comfort level.  Replacing the blended and ready meat to the cooler/refrigerator would be a good idea until it is once again quite cool and the fats are re-established firmly within the protein.  Place the mixed meat mass on the side of sheet pan or on a clean cutting board to shape into a loaf of your choice of shape (hey, the state of Texas is a favorite with some of my friends here).  Place the slices of firmed dry bread together in a single layer on the middle of the sheet pan and carefully move the shaped loaf onto the bread slices.  The idea of elevating the meat is for the fats and greases to drain from the cooking meatloaf instead of it all simmering in the fats while cooking, therefore making a better-textured and less oily loaf.  The idea also is to discard the bread slices after – good luck with that.

Bake for a good hour maybe an hour and a quarter, depending on your additions, but test with a quick-read instant thermometer in the innermost section to read at least about 150-160̊ for a range of just barely leaving pink to well done.  The topping sauce may be slathered on at the onset for a crusty finish, or about twenty minutes prior to finish, for a softer crust surface.

Options:  The loaf may be taken around the world by associating flavorings.  For an Asian bent, try adding a tsp of ‘five spice blend’, a few diced uncooked fresh green onions, a can of diced up drained water chestnuts to the meat portion, and a tsp more ginger in the third topper sauce option.  Go to Italy with the sage upped to 1 tsp, with also a tsp of minced fresh rosemary and lemon zest.  Top with marinara sauce.  For a Continental feel, add cooled cooked bacon bits (about half a pound pre-cooked) and a quarter pound of grated cheese (cheddar, Swiss, emmental, etc) and top with cheese sauce or gravy on serving.  For a South of the Border direction, add about a quarter cup each sweet corn and diced mild chiles (canned is great) to the pulsed vegetable relish before sauteeing.  Fold in fresh chopped cilantro into the final corporate blend before shaping.  Top or serve with enchilada sauce (canned, again ok, or homemade).

Me? My fave is any of the above with a huge dollop of mashed potatoes and all smothered in gravy. 

But what I really like, oh yes, is the next day - cool, sliced, and plopped comfortably between a couple of slices of a great pumpernickel or rye, with a bit of mayo and catsup and mustard (spicy type) - and a few slices of crunchy, sweet red onion, maybe a few rounds of tomato or lettuce, but it's the wonderful leftover meatloaf that carries this one - what a sandwich - soooo good!

FRIED CHICKEN

  

Ah, fried chicken.  More men have been lured into matrimony by this sumptuous food, I’d say, over most any other prepared dish.  It is a bite of miraculous deliciousness – hot, steaming and crunchy -- with mashed potatoes and gravy – oh, my!  It also fares excellently chilled or room temperature starring in a picnic along with potato or macaroni salad and iced cold drinks and watermelon.  Most folks have been hit full throttle from all sides by a discerning cook, indoors and out, with this time-honored dish.

And we’re not just talking romantic relationships here either.  Fried chicken has been used to woo the mechanic or plumber into a good understanding, as well as babysitters and the kids’ tutors.  Bowling teams and office committees have elected their leaders based on the chicken brought to Memorial Day picnics.  This is serious stuff.

The same preparation style as for the fish is ideal for fried chicken as well.  Chicken must be cooked through, but not dried out, so careful knowledge of chicken parts certainly helps.  White meat pieces cook faster than dark meat parts.  The meat in dark meat parts is structured more densely (muscular), being more fibrous and protein filled – therefore requiring additional heat time to bring to done.  The density of the chicken over fish requires also a longer marinating period, usually several hours to overnight – even a day.  There are many options with this dish.

The crust or fried skin is a huge contributor to flavor, texture and aroma.  Some folks remove the skin and prepare the parts as if skin were still attached, which tastes wonderfully fine.  Some folks prefer a thick and crisp covering on the fowl.  Others prefer a lighter cover, with a pleasant crunch, not a crackle.  To obtain the thick crackle, the pieces are usually twice dipped/dredged in the buttermilk and/or egg liquid and then the flour or flour/crunch material.  Conversely, my mom just lightly rolled the moist chicken pieces in herbed//spiced flour and fried it to perfection.  I’ve had chicken pieces that were quite heavy on the coating and eating the chicken was more of an endurance objective with so much crispy layers to eat through first.  And then I’ve also had chicken where there was a baked sensation, with no big ‘crunch’ at all.  Both were delicious.  Your preference is what you should create.

The nature of the buttermilk coating (low fat is your best option) makes a good ‘glue’ for the flour or other coatings.  The buttermilk may be left thick or most of it may be shaken/dabbed off.  One coat of flavored flour may be all that is preferred, or a double dip if desired.  Some cooks add crunch materials to the flour (only a fourth of the flour amount) – such as corn meal, crushed cereal (Corn Flakes is the favorite), crushed potato chips (thicker chips is best, like the ruffled type), and crushed pretzels.  These are a delicious option, but why not fry a bit more adventurously and try crushed Rye Crisp, Shredded Wheat, Wheat Thins, wheat germ and/or Panko bread crumbs with your flour? 

If you’ve purchased deep fried chicken in the fast food or market presentations, you’ll find the flavor quite lovely, yet in eating, the skin slides off in one huge bite-full.  This is because these chicken preparations are most likely deep fried and/or pressure cooked, and this mode of immersion frying completely envelopes the chicken pieces in high heat all at once, not allowing air/steam to escape from between the meat and the skin.  The expansion of the air/steam acts like blowing up a balloon, pushing the skin away from the flesh as it crisps it. Home-cooked pieces are usually fried one side at a time in a pan as opposed to deep fried or pressure cooked, allowing the steam/air to escape from the opposite ‘up’ side, and the skin is able to bond with the meat.  The down side to this method is a longer cooking time, and usually a barely darker center mark on each side due to longer contact with the frying pan itself, but that is about it.

Here’s an option – my favorite – you might consider trying:

Either cut the fowl yourself into ten pieces (breasts in half –4, wings –2, thighs –2, legs –2, with back/tail and ribcage either saved for stock or fried along with the parts) or purchase your favorite pieces FRESH at the market.  Find out from your butcher the market’s timing and rotation of their fresh chicken offerings.  Rinse and dry well before seasoning.

I opt to first sprinkle my version of my ‘house blend spice’ – a mix of equal parts dry powdered mustard, salt, paprika  (sweet or smoked, your call) and garlic powder.  Let set on surface of covered pieces under plastic wrap, or in a well sealed zip-lock bag(s), at least one hour in fridge.  After that 'dry' marinade time, to these spiced pieces then add about one pint to one quart (to cover and coat) of buttermilk plus one-quarter cup or so of dry sherry or dry white wine (as you prefer) back into the zip-lock bag.  Marinate the cut pieces chilled for three hours to overnight (plan ahead, overnight is best). 

Remove from chill for frying and allow to come to room temperature.  Carefully shake off as much liquid as possible over the sink and dab onto a paper towel quickly and then lay onto a wire rack to air dry just a bit more, as with the fish.  If you have the notion to add more dry spices to the ‘sticky’ chicken pieces, this is a good time.  Rich ground spices work well like more spice blend (the powdered mustard, paprika and garlic – but then also consider ground ginger, thyme, cayenne and powdered onion, but I insist, be gentle).  Also considered would be the small whole seed/berry flavorings like caraway, sesame, dill, celery, and mustard (they won’t survive the normal time for frying, so the chicken will need to fry cook till the outer skin is golden then the interior finished in the oven), and of course, fresh ground pepper.  Smell your choice of herbs, spices and other flavorings and let your knowledge of blendings and taste-history guide you.  I’ve said this for the fish, and also again here.  

In a broad dish, set a cup at a time of flour mixed well with a quarter-cup of cornstarch, corn flour or rice flour and a hefty pinch of salt.  Carefully dust the moist herbed/spiced pieces in the flour and return to the rack while preparing the pan, let set until the flour coating appears almost like soft, dry, bumpy dough.  Use a heavy, large (12 inch or larger) cast iron skillet to disperse the heat evenly.  Many cooks (including my mom) also opt to use vegetable shortening instead of oil.  The claim was that this brought an even and unflavored heat better to the meat and skin.  I have to agree, but a safer option is to blend the shortening with peanut, grape seed or canola oil, making it more reliable, high heat  resistant and safe.  Heat shortening to medium hot (about 370° max) and place the pieces skin-side down into the oil, nestled together into a non-crowded pattern (breasts not yet), and when finished, the oil should come at least halfway up the pieces and the temperature should now read about 320°.  Adjust the flame to maintain this lower heat, lower but still hot enough to keep the chicken from absorbing the fat.  I’d rather fry chicken a bit ‘low and slow’ (for frying standards) than to blast it done rapidly. After about the initial one or two minutes, arrange the shrinking pieces toward the center and add the breasts somewhere on the outer circumference of the pan.  Cook for about six to eight more minutes, depending on the size of the pieces (when the pieces are a rich mahogany golden brown on this side), then turn.   If for some reason the middle pieces are darkening too fast, then adjust the heat and rotate with the outer pieces.  Should you have a smaller pan, then fry the pieces in two batches, but allow the oil to return to the original 370° before dropping the second batch in.

Covering the pan will slightly soften the ultimate skin ‘crunch’, but will better moderate the spatter, and contain and even-out the heat.  I recommend covering only during the first side cooking, and only the first half of the second side to allow steam to escape, and crunch to happen.  The rest of the time, invest in those spatter guards of metal mesh.  They’re perfect. 

When done – cooking at about eight to ten minutes on a side – clear juices will emerge from the pieces when pierced with a fork, or an instant read thermometer inserted into the mid of the fattest part of the thigh (not touching a bone) will read 160-170° -- if the thighs are done, then all the other pieces will be too.  Remove to a wire rack placed just over paper towels/paper bags that will catch the excess oil but not smother the surfaces.  This contact ‘smother’ will mush up the crunchy skin you worked so hard to get.

Option:  Try adding crunch additives to the battered surface of the chicken such as a sprinkling of corn meal, crushed nuts or small seeds (pistachio, hazelnuts, almonds, pecans, cashews, macadamia, or peanuts etc - or sesame, pumpkin seed, sesame seed, celery, caraway, poppyseeds etc); or even more delicate - grated Parmesan, asiago, pecorino etc over the flour (perhaps also with the seed coatings) - but because of the delicate nature of these additives, fry till golden, but the inner chicken flesh won’t be cooked completely, and finish cooking by baking on a rack set in a sheet pan in a 350° oven (about fifteen to twenty minutes).

 

If you don’t have chicken gravy for the mashed potatoes or to slather last minute on the chicken, then you’ve forgotten half the meal.  Yessir!

CHICKEN GRAVY

Remove cooling pan from fire and carefully pour off ninety-five percent of the cooled fat into a safe container.  What is left in the pan should be many islands of those mahogany colored flour and skin bits and a tablespoon or two of oil.  Cooking low and slow also allows these bits to remain browned without becoming charcoal by the end of the frying.  Should you have any saved chicken, duck or turkey fat from other roastings or preparations, this is the perfect use here. 

Replace to heat, a medium to medium-hot range.  Add now two more tablespoons butter, oil, and/or heart-healthy butter-flavored non-water-based margarine and/or your treasured duck/chicken fat.  Allow butter/margarine/fat to simmer a moment or two to remove any waters that are in them.  Add about a quarter cup of AP flour (potato or rice flour may be considered, but has little gluten and makes a less elastic gravy) and gently cook/stir to absorb all the oils, turning the flour a light brown color.  Add a teaspoon each of garlic powder, dry ground mustard, dry powdered thyme (crushed in the palm of the hand), and salt in along with the flour as well (or a heaping tbs of my ‘spice rub’).  A pinch of cayenne or hot sauce here is great too.  Stir well into the mash, then add a splash of dry white wine or sherry and let work a bit till smooth, then half a can of evaporated milk and whisk until thickened and all lumps have been whisked out.  At this point consider either chicken stock/broth, the rest of the canned milk plus regular milk as needed or all three may be added bit by bit until the gravy becomes a thick cream consistency – and about a quart in volume.  A quarter cup of heavy cream at the last is always a tasty option, but you may find that the gravy has a rich enough ‘feel’ without it (just helping you get used to safer eats).  The gravy will thicken even more as it cools to the table so don’t finish it stovetop as you ultimately want it.  Bring to a boil, then down to a simmer and hold, or remove.  Test, then salt and pepper to taste. 

No potatoes?  Try a slice of hearty, crusty bread or a bed of rice, polenta, cous cous or quinoa – or leftover vegetables and/or pasta. 

Remember to warm the gravy dish or gravy boat first with very hot tap water, poured out – it’ll keep the gravy at a better temperature longer. 

Ah, chicken gravy, liquid gold!

Blend me your ears!

One flavor against another.  One aroma entwining with other unique smells, working together to make a completely new and provocative scent.  Each individual smell working with others to create memory and association.  Most every morning we mix the smells of coffee, soap, fresh-pressed cotton, toothpaste and toast – and that combined ‘breakfast’ smell will stay with us for many, many years.  Walking into downtown eateries, we are met with scents of fried meats, orange juice, floral arrangements, outdoor diesel fumes, the fish of the day, and the perfume of the cashier – but as remote as it all might seem, it all brings the association of ‘eating downtown’ to us.  With creating new things to eat and ‘taste’ – because of our noses – the opportunity is there for introducing many great marriages of aromas and flavors. 

The easiest of techniques for ‘training’ of the blending together these many flavors we come across simply is to hold single ingredient scents to one’s nose and to mentally remember them.  Subsequently hold other intended scents and aromas to the nose one after the other, apart and then together.  It’s as easy as it sounds.  Work varied blendings until there is found a combination of smells that work with the memory and sensibilities that you have learned.  Trust your sense of smell.  Trust your experience.

I am no nutritionist, and don’t claim to be.  My mom was a great cook, and she served her delicious food with love and laughter (which incidentally are the BEST condiments).  However, having been raised during the depression, her concepts of preparation and presentation in our new, more prosperous ‘baby boom’ world had her putting butter and mayonnaise on almost everything.  I loved it, but it had its consequences.  Then I was a skinny kid, but my youthful eating habits didn’t support that rich intake in my later years.

My brother and I had to work to alter those habits, and this book reflects that altered mindset from my food perspective.  It is always wise to educate oneself in nutrition and watch what one eats.  ‘Read the label’ -- simple yet very prudent advice.  Avoid highly processed foods if possible, and limit use of salts, sugars and chemicals.  Lighten up on dairy and red meats, use butter and animal fats sparingly, and deep-fry no more often than once a week if you can.   Easily said, but boy, what a task.  We find ourselves overwhelmed at the thought of having to give up foods we hold to comfort or habit, so we often surrender without a fight in deference to our ‘loves’. 

There are alternatives to this defeatist style of thinking; and the most basic manner of approach is moderation – altering our diet so gently and subtly that we don’t really recognize any substantial change -- making the task much more, shall we say, palatable.   Give it a try, it isn’t that hard.  Most all ingredients I refer to in this book are easily found in the local supermarket.  This presentation of cooking is for everyone, and even those actively instituting controlled food preparation and ingredient choice can use these recipes as a reference with slight augmentation. 

See what you can come up with.   ‘Healthy’ will only be an incidental by-product.

         FATS AND OILS – No one loves pork fat more than I, trust me.  Butter, ah, a gift from Heaven.  But it’s the flavor and texture that I crave most, not necessarily the actual ingredient.  Just trimming the amounts of the animal fats intake by a third, then later by a half (or maybe even more) in preparation and cooking, and substituting the other portion with canola, olive, or safflower oil will fare better with the body and digestion, and not alter the original beloved taste and texture noticeably at all.

       CREAMS AND CHEESES – in most dishes, these elements are added for a rich ‘mouth feel’ of smoothness and silkiness to the tongue.  And mayonnaise, what is it about whipped oil and egg that’s so irresistible?   Reducing quantities of these elements in foods such as gravies, sauces, dips, or baked goods, and replacing that partial amount removed with a selection of the following offerings:  smooth-blended soy curd (soft ‘silken’ tofu), thickened yogurt/Greek yogurt, canned evaporated milk, or smooth-blended cottage cheese.  These will maintain the lovely mouth-feel and taste while enhancing the nutrition and contributing considerably less fat. Actually, the reduced-fat dairy items and mayonnaises available commercially are surprisingly satisfying (they’ve already replaced some of the animal fats with heart-healthy oils).  Soy based vegetarian isn’t bad, but completely non-fat versions of soured creams, soft and aged cheeses, and mayonnaises, however, will disappoint you.

      FLOURS AND GROUND GRAINS – Not all flours, semolinas, farinas or breakfast wheat grains are as nutritious as our bodies would like.  Simply adding a teaspoonful of fresh wheat germ per cup of the ground grain in a cereal, baking recipe or coating adds a richer flavor as well as a significant lift in nutritional value.

Getting SAUCED

The sauce can be the magic in a dish.  It can transform a bland portion of meat or fish into a delicious and elegant surprise.  A sauce can make leftovers become ‘firstovers’, and the potential for texture, flavor and just plain fun is as broad as your imagination.

Half of these sauces are already here in this book.  And some will be completely new to you, but I’m putting all of them together here for organization ease and for a perspective.  Read them knowing that the sauce need not be applied merely as I have offered here in my posted recipes, but rather see the sauce is a tool - a cooking associate – that can be used as easily or as complexly as your heart and ‘ear’ can imagine.

I’ll separate the offerings in categories as to how they might be used, and you can take it from there. 

GETTING STARTED - Most successful sauces will start with the FOND, or caramelization that is left in the saute pan after grilling meats and vegetables to caramelized perfection.  This fond is eventually dissolved by a thin liquid, usually stock/broth, wine, water, juices, vinegars and/or bottled sauces.

We’ll allow that most all these sauces begin this way:  The meat ingredient will be browned first (great to use the ‘spice rub’ for meats; or if vegetarian – use the ‘spice rub’ as well, on the main vegetable or tofu that is sautéed to a golden caramelization) and then removed from the pan while the sauce is being prepared. 

Next into the pan will be the aromatic vegetables - that are basic yet so very magical – as in the faithful onion, celery, shallot, carrot and peppers; plus the bulb vegetables perhaps, such as fennel, leek, and green onion might be chosen.  After the initial heat has been neutralized by the addition and softening of these vegetables (and in some cases, caramelization), then some richly flavored yet delicately structured additions such as garlic, ginger, fresh ground spices and dried herbs are added to bloom and blend.   As these all subside, then the liquid solvent, or the ‘de-glaze’ is poured into the sizzling mass and all is carefully stirred up from the surface of the pan, always simmering gently to bring all the flavors together like a family reunion.

Finally the sauce will be reduced to a gentle simmer and the meat introduced (or returned) to finish. 

Some of these sauces I’ve used for years yet have no real answer to give for their origin other than my ‘ear’.  Some are age-old, and are basically an institution all their own.  And some only make logical sense with the flavor ingredients selected being just wonderful ingredients without introduction necessary. 

Sauces to quick braise or re-heat prepared meats/vegetables in:

Several of these following sauces use bottled or prepared ingredients (I know, I know), so allow that sodiums and salts are in play outside the cook’s control - so as always, TASTE as you go, and salt and season only when necessary after tasting.  I won’t list salt and pepper for laziness sake, I’ll let you decide on that.

Proportions given are for about four servings, approximately.

New York:  ½ cup chicken broth, 2-3 tbs balsamic vinegar, 1 tbs Worcestershire sauce - Simmered together till a thickened gentle bubble; then the chicken/beef/pork bits, diced vegetables (defrosted frozen selections can be just fine here – I like the ‘stir fry’ frozen vegetable option with mushrooms and sugar snap peas) may be tossed and sautéed at a new high temp till all coated and warmed and appearing as a glaze.  Serve with pasta, potatoes or rice (I like the spiral ‘fusilli’).

Tokyo:  ¼ cup Soy sauce (look for low sodium), ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup mirin (a sweet rice wine for cooking), 2 tbs ea Hoisin sauce and rice vinegar, 1 tbs each oyster sauce and light brown sugar, juice squeezed of one lime and a bit of the zest, ½ to 1 tsp fresh grated ginger (or half tsp dried if that's all you have), 1 clove minced garlic - Simmered together till slightly reduced; then prepared fowl/chicken, meats, fish and vegetable portions may be introduced and simmered submerged (braised) till warmed through. May then be removed, drained and re-grilled briefly after simmering to caramelize the surface coating.  Serve drained of sauce, the sauce then served as a dipping side with fresh chopped green onions added.  Serve with rice or Asian style (‘glass’, mung bean, ‘cellophane’, rice stick) noodles.

Paris:  1 lime-sized shallot diced fine (or a small, sweet, gentle onion), ½ pound mushrooms sliced, 2 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sherry, ½ cup broth, ¼ cup cream/canned milk – Aromatics and vegetables sautéed first to tender, then broth/wine added to deglaze and reduce.  Cream/canned milk added as a final blend and thickener.  Meats, fishes, poultry, shellfish added to warm through.  Serve with mashed potatoes, pasta, rice or toasted breads.

Mumbai:  1 bell pepper sliced in strips, 1 small onion sliced half-moons, 2-3 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sweet paprika, 2 tbs red curry, 2 tbs to ¼ cup slivered almonds or nut of your choice, ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup coconut milk or yogurt – simmer to thick and smooth, add prepared roasted or BBQ meats/fishes, vegetables (winter squashes are great here) and simmer to thick and perfect.  Serve with rice, tabouli, cous-cous, garbanzo beans or quinoa.

Mexico City:  Chipotle plum sauce – refer to the recipe in this book (under 'Comfort - south of the border' - 'Pulled pork'), great with pork, roasted meats, fishes and fowls, BBQ, although a bit strong for shellfish.  Serve with corn/flour tortillas, pasta, rice, prepared potato dishes, or polenta.  

Milan:  virgin olive oil; 2 cloves fine diced garlic; 2-3 mashed anchovies (or 1 tsp anchovy paste); 1 small bulb sliced fennel; 1 small onion and 1 rib celery diced fine; ½ tsp each oregano and thyme; ¼ tsp each pepper flakes and crushed black pepper corns; 1 tbs. capers; small diced eggplant (about two cups raw); ½ lbs. tomatoes diced medium; ¼ cup rough-chopped black and green olives; lemon zest and juice; ¼ cup stock; splash wine/sherry; splash sherry vinegar.  Gently saute solid bits till tender, then add liquids and simmer all together and slightly reduce, introduce meats/ fishes/ fowl.  Serve with pasta, toast, rice, polenta, and/or over bitter greens.

Sauces to braise raw or par-cooked meats/vegetables in:

         Proportions are given with each recipe.

MARINARA  - TIMELESS TOMATO

Marinara is usually thought dully as a plain red sauce – or a bit more descriptive -- a ‘meatless’ pasta sauce.  But it’s so, so much more; this just ain’t no spaghetti sauce.  Marinara is an all-encompassing association between two or more separate ingredients.  A ‘catalyst’ if you will, as in science – multiple elements working more intensely and deeply after the ‘introduction’ of another element.  Marinara works with many foods, more than just pasta alone, which I might add, is a big deal right there.  Dozens of varieties of meats have roasted with it, tasty residents of the sea have braised in it, and gardens of vegetables have found happy endings in it.  And of course, we have the miraculous, infamous PIZZA!

I’m giving two basic foundations for presentation of the timeless, humble marinara.  You may take other ingredients and mix or change as you wish, but I’ll give you a place where you can start.  Following first is a slow and lovely preparation that will have everyone thinking you’re a magician; and after that a freshly wonderful and savory preparation that is ready in the time it takes to cook the pasta.

Both are perfect and delicious, and have their place on any table.

ROMA SLOW – Marinara Ebbro  (maree-nara ay-bro, Italian for ‘drunken’)  

serves four to six, with pasta or . . .

Preheat oven to 350°      Makes about a quart-and-a-half to two quarts

Tools: 3-4 quart Dutch oven, or similar even-heating oven-capable container with lid; food processor; cutting board

Ingredients: 

 2-3    tbs olive oil

2     small or one medium onions,

                peeled, rough chopped  

2     stalks celery, rough chopped

3     small to medium carrots, peeled,

                rough chopped

 2-4    cloves garlic, rough chopped

½    tsp each salt and pepper

½    tsp red pepper flakes

2     tbs tomato paste

1     tsp dried oregano

1     tsp dried sage

¾-1   cup vodka

2     28 oz cans whole tomatoes, drained

   ½    pint  (one cup) chicken, veal and/or

                  vegetable stock (or for vegetarian,

                  use drained canned tomato juice)              

   ½    pint (one cup) heavy cream, room

                  temperature or warmed (carefully

                  in microwave on 30%)

1     clove garlic, chopped fine         

1-2     bay leaves (depending on size and potency)

salt and pepper to taste (remember that canned

               tomatoes and other canned

               ingredients have sodium)

4-6     fresh basil leaves, cut in medium chop

                  or rolled and cut in chiffonade   

1     tbs chopped fresh oregano

Preparation:  While heating the oil in the pan, place the rough chopped vegetables, tomato paste, salt/pepper and dry oregano and sage in the food processor and pulse to a coarse ‘relish’ grade of chop.  Place this mix into the hot oil, reduce the heat to medium, and slowly bring to translucence, stirring regularly, and continue on carefully to rich golden brown, about fifteen to twenty minutes.  Remove the pan from the fire to add the vodka (see flavored vodkas in this book) and stir well, deglazing the pan of the vegetable fond and working the liquor into the mass, then raise the heat to medium-high.  After a few minutes of reduction, add the stock, stir well.  Next add the tomatoes, carefully crushing apart by hand as you add each one to the mass, stirring once in a while.  As the mass simmers and begins to reduce, add the bay leaves and the last clove of finely chopped garlic.  When the pot again comes to heat, cover and place in the pre-heated oven for about an hour and a half (may remain covered, on low fire, on top of stove -- but carefully monitored and stirred with a flat-bottomed wood spatula to avoid scorching).  The last half hour may be simmered uncovered if a thicker sauce is desired.  Last, remove bay leaves, add the fresh basil and fresh oregano and finish with the warmed cream stirred into the hot sauce, adjust seasonings.  Always, you gotta have fresh-grated Parmesan over and stirred in. 

Almost like a plane ticket to Rome!

ROMA QUICK – Puttanesca    (poo-tan-ess-ka)                                                    

serves two (appropriately)

Food history is seemingly always information of interest, especially when that history has great provenance to the dish.  Then there are examples where we have history that doesn’t really matter, but is fun to know all the same. Well, puttana is a professional label in Italy.  So this sauce is named in reference to that profession.  Ah, yes, for the Italian ladies of the evening, those busy hard-working gals who needed to put together something quick and tasty between, ahem, customers.  Us ‘new world’ folk need to get a bit more inventive with our etymology, I’d say.

 

Tools:  Large sauté or frying pan; pot for boiling pasta, if desired; cutting board

Prep:  Traditionally, the pasta is begun first, and while it boils, the sauce is prepared.  Yes, that quick.  Dicing and cutting the ingredients before anything is begun and having them at the ready is a best idea.  This dish is intended to be a fast fix and to taste fresh, so acquire the best and freshest ingredients possible for the maximum flavor.  When preparing the pasta, drain it with the colander set over the serving bowl or dish, to warm it.  Retain about a quarter cup of the pasta water for the final sauce assemblage.

Ingredients:

¼     cup extra virgin olive oil

2      lbs fresh ripe tomatoes (best cherry or grape type) in season, 
               diced ½ inch, or 1-28 oz can quality whole tomatoes,

               drained, chopped ½ inch, save liquid 

1      small red or sweet cipollini onion, diced ¼ inch

2      tbs (splash) dry white wine or good dry sherry

½     tsp each salt and pepper (salt introduction is reduced

               because of the other salted/brined ingredients)

4-8     anchovy fillets (dry pack is best; for canned,

                   find small-boned quality variety) or 1 tbs paste

¼     tsp red pepper flakes

3      garlic cloves, diced fine, sliced paper thin, or minced

  1-2    tsp capers, drained, rough chopped

¼     cup coarsely chopped pitted black olives

               (Calamata or preferred quality cured variety)

¼     cup fresh Italian parsley, medium-rough chopped

  3-4    tbs grated Parmesan

3-4     leaves fresh basil, freshly rough-chopped

                    just prior to adding

Preparation: Prepare the pasta for two, usually 1/4 to 1/3 pound (penne rigate, tagliatelle, fettuccini, linguini, gnocchi, spaghetti, etc – angel hair is too fine, vermicelli is the finest I’d recommend).  Bring three or four quarts of well-salted water to boil, add pasta, stir, and give the eight to ten minutes of boiling time to the sauce.  In medium hot skillet, add the oil, anchovy fillets and pepper flakes and gently render the fillets away to ‘nothing’, mashing with the back of the wooden spoon into the oil, about three or four minutes.  Halfway into this happening, add the garlic and onions and sauté gently till tender and any ‘rawness’ is removed.  Splash in the wine/sherry and tomato liquid, simmer down till thick.  Add the tomatoes, olives, capers and parsley and bring just to a simmer.  Fold in the drained al dente pasta and the reserved quarter cup of pasta water, lastly the Parmesan and basil, briefly crank up the heat and bring to steaming, stirring/folding to mix.  Salt and pepper only if needed.  The olives (you could try with green alone or mixed as well), anchovies, and capers are prepared with salt, and the red pepper flakes should suffice nicely for the heat spike.  But as always, taste first. 

Serve right away -- top with more fresh grated Parmesan cheese and smile, amico! 

Eat, now go back to work.

ROMA BASIC marinara option:  If you desire a quick ‘standard’ basic marinara with a bit more of a cooked flavor – or for the use as an ingredient in another recipe (pizza, lasagna, parmesana etc) is what you desire:  Simply sautéing one onion diced small in olive oil, adding a teaspoon or so of dried oregano and a half tsp of salt and a hefty pinch each of dried sage (double it if fresh, minced) and pepper flakes to the oil and onions.  When tender, fold in a clove or two of minced garlic till the fragrance rises, then a 28 oz can of broken apart whole or chopped tomatoes and simmer semi-covered until thickened and broken down just a bit – about ten to fifteen minutes.  Finish with fresh chiffonade of basil and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and there ya are.

Options to all the above:  You can never go wrong with mushrooms.  Never.  I think I’d eat mushroom ice cream if someone offered it to me.  But stay simple with these recipes, that’s their strength. 

The following serve about four -

SANTA FE:  ½ cup Kahlua, ¼ cup minced ginger, ½ cup marmalade (or apricot preserves), pinch cayenne and splash of water – blend and simmer to a thick ‘paintable’ texture.  With meats, roasts and saute, baste every ten minutes or so, over roast  surfaces (pork/ham, turkey, beef, salmon, squashes, sweet potatoes) for the last half hour to hour prior to finish – serve with anything.

LOS ANGELES:  ½ cup dry wine, 1 cup chicken broth, 1 medium onion or shallot, 2 stalks celery, ½ cup orange juice and/or red grapefruit juice, pinch cumin – blend ingredients and simmer meats/fishes/fowl and vegetables for a quarter of an hour (pre-diced sized allows for cooking time).  Remove solids from liquid, simmer to reduce sauce by at least half and serve over.  Serve with mashed potatoes, rice, bitter greens/baby greens salad or BBQ anything.

EAR:  Any of the salsas in this book – mostly as with Plum loco, Salsa Sorpresa, salsa verde, Tomatillo/avocado, red salsa, and black bean/mango salsas, may be spooned over the roasted or grilled meats at serving, or over the meats and/or vegetables fifteen minutes prior to finish and roasted briefly to impart flavors into the dish.  Serve with anything.

TACOMA:  Pomegranate cherry sauce – refer to recipe in the book (under 'pork tenderloin').  Simmer meats briefly in sauce or ladle sauce over roasting/BBQ meats.  Serve with rice, pasta, potatoes, polenta, cous-cous, etc.

OAXACA:  Tomatillo chile – refer to recipe in this book (under 'salsas'). Braise meats in sauce till done, or prepare/BBQ meats in advance and serve with a pond of the sauce under.

Sauces to ladle over or serve at the side:

CHEESE SAUCE – béchamel base – ¼ cup each butter and flour: three cheeses (your choice, but white cheddar, jack or pepper jack and cream cheese are a good sample, about 6-8 ounces each), ¼ cup wine/sherry, 2 cups chicken broth, ½ cup cream or canned evaporated milk, whisper of nutmeg – serve over pasta, prepared meats/fowl nuggets/fish, toast, French fries or any fried/baked potato, vegetables, meatloaf or sausages, veggie/chips dip

NUT SAUCE - Roast about a cup of nut choice (almond slivers, cashews, walnut/pecan/macadamia pieces) in the oven till lightly golden.  Let cool.  Place in blender (best) or processor and patiently grind to a ‘flour’, then add a third cup of sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt etc, a half cup of milk/evaporated milk, a pinch of salt and a splash of lemon juice, blend WELL till like a thick cream, and finally add just a part of a glug, about a tsp, of pure maple syrup (go light, or a tbs of honey if you prefer) for a finish.  Return to low heat and bring just to a simmer, re-blending if necessary. The nut sauce works with savory or sweet, and your choice of optional accompanying enhancement ingredients (very small amounts – a ‘pinch’) will dictate that direction – like whether garlic or ginger, cumin or nutmeg, cayenne or mint, wine or vanilla, mustard or citrus zest – serve over vegetables, chiles rellenos, meat/poultry/fishes, pasta, rice or BBQ’d anything.  

CILANTRO CREAM SAUCE - Blend one or two bunches of fresh rough-chopped cilantro tops and the slender upper stems, limejuice, fresh garlic, salt and pepper with sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt in the blender/food processor till lightly green and very aromatic.  Fold in fine-diced green onions, fresh cilantro leaves and/or chopped chives after blending – serve over fruits, vegetables, salads, chiles rellenos, prepared meats/BBQ, tacos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

MILD ROASTED CHILE CREAM SAUCE - Use either one or two roasted, seeded and peeled poblano peppers or purchase a can or cans (7 to 14 oz, as you prefer) of mild green chiles and whirl in the processor with three-quarters cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a pinch each of salt, cayenne and cumin – serve over any roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, salads, rice, veggie/chip dip

AVOCADO CREAM SAUCE - Just whirl in the processor two peeled and diced avocados with a quarter cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a quarter cup rough chopped cilantro, a good squeeze of lime, and a healthy pinch each of salt and cayenne pepper – serve over roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, rellenos, veggie/chip dip.

AVOCADO TOMATILLO CREAM SAUCE – simply blend together the prepared tomatillo sauce in this book with one or two peeled and pitted avocados (depending on size) – serve over roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, chiles rellenos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

GRAVIES – chicken - see under ‘fried chicken’ in this book; turkey – see under ‘oink gravy’ in this book; sausage – béchamel base (1/4 cup each butter and flour), splash wine or sherry, 2 cups each canned milk and broth/stock, 2/3 to one pound sautéed ground sausage of your choice with fine diced onions and minced garlic, sautéed and drained; beef – pulse grind in processor to a ‘relish’ - onions, celery, carrots and mushrooms (about a half cup of each) plus a minced garlic clove or two, and saute in butter and oil mix (great if a fried fond is available from previously cooked beef) with a pinch of salt and pepper at low and slow till deep brown.  Deglaze with dry wine or sherry splash and 2-3 cups beef broth.  Thicken with flour roux, corn starch or potato flour, a healthy splash of Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce to taste and ¼ cup cream or canned milk optional.  Thin if necessary with more milk or stock/broth.  Sauteed mushrooms may be added for more savory flavor – you know how to serve gravy.

TZATZIKI SAUCE/GREEK YOGURT - The basis for Greek yogurt is that it is a richer, thicker and less slippery version than traditional US market yogurts.

So, let’s Greek up our yogurt!  In a good sized sieve or strainer, lay out fine cheesecloth, quality ‘cloth like’ paper towels or coffee filters, and fill with a good quality, live culture, plain (not vanilla) yogurt.  I’d go for at least a quart (4 cups), and store it sealed in the fridge.  Believe me, you’ll use it.  Set the strainer over a bowl in the refrigerator and let drain.  The longer the better, but remember that yogurt will absorb other flavors present with it in the fridge.  It can be set inside a larger sealable bag (a clean kitchen sized trash bag is perfect), but just take care handling all the potential gloppy parts, twisting well the open end and setting that twist under the bowl.  After a few hours or overnight, give it a look.  You’ll think you have ‘cream cheese’, or at least ‘sour cream’ (depending on how long you let it set).  The ‘mouth feel’ is great, the flavor is tangy and rich, and the replacement value for fattier foods is huge.  Give it a try where mayonnaise would be used:  sandwiches, mac/ potato/ chicken/ crab/ shrimp salads, dips, sauces, devilled eggs or sweet/savory custards.  The thickened Greek yogurt, or the mixed Tzatziki sauce may be returned to the original yogurt container for refrigerator storage.

As a cool topping for spicy BBQ meat, rich game or fowl, spicy vegetables or just over a potato, here is the rich and tangy Tzatziki sauce.  The base for Tzatziki sauce is Greek yogurt, which if you need to, may also be purchased under that name. 

It’s a delicious Greek topping for gyros, but made of a mix of flavors you well know, so it isn’t all that exotic or intimidating.

Just mix the quart of thickened yogurt with:

  

 1     grated (peeled and seeded) smallish cucumber

            (small is better than large for texture and flavor

             1     tbs fresh dill, minced or ½ tbs dried

          2-3     cloves minced garlic, roasted or raw

          1-2     tbs lemon juice and/or tasty gentle vinegar like

                         sherry vinegar, rice wine or grape wine vinegar

  

            Salt and pepper to taste

Add to this for fun – a pinch cayenne or several shakes of hot sauce; Worcestershire sauce; mashed or diced avocado; minced sun-dried tomatoes, black or green olives, capers, sweet onion; or pickled or brined red peppers.   The cucumbers and onions can be pickled instead (recipe in this book) and then chopped and added to the mix.   Tired of dill?  (Like, if ever)  Well then, try mint, basil or tarragon – or add them with!  Serve with roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, vegetable/chip dip, replace any sour cream or mayonnaise element in most dishes or preparations.  

TARTAR SAUCE - Use store bought quality mayonnaise, which is always safer for the spoilage/egg question, as the makers have dealt with that raw egg issue. Homemade mayonnaises are delicious, but risky over time with the raw egg quotient.  Only make your own mayonnaise when you KNOW it will be consumed without un-chilled storage or long-term setting.    Plus, you don’t have to always use mayonnaise.  Greek yogurt, thickened creams and milks, or blended soft (silken) tofu are an excellent and safe option that works well with picnic plans for potato and macaroni salads, tartar and dipping sauces, and sandwiches. 

To the mayonnaise or yogurt, one should add minced ingredients.  The best way to mince some of these ingredients is to use your box grater, very low tech but a good friend here. 

Firm ingredients to grate or finely chop are:  white or yellow onions, shallots, sweet or dill pickles, gherkins, garlic pickles, celery, citrus zest, hard-boiled egg, and cucumber (where do you think pickles come from?). 

Ingredients to add by mashing/fine dicing are capers, anchovies, chives, green olives, fennel and fresh dill. 

Other prepared flavors to add in a liquid-ish form are Dijon mustard, horseradish, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, oyster sauce (yes), and then the expected lemon and lime juice – but don’t rule out orange, tangerine or grapefruit juices either!  Toppers?  an affordable market-purchased caviar – red or black, perfect!  Serve with fish, shellfish, French fries, veggie dip.