The biggie, the all time hero of Texas, the star of the show, the BOWL OF RED

This recipe is the longest one in the blog. Don't lose heart,

because this can be frozen and reheated in the dead of winter

and you'll be so glad you found it hiding in the freezer. 

It takes a good part of a day to make, but you will never regret it!! 

Should you win a contest with this one,

remember your old pal, Doug!

CHILI - RED AT ITS BEST

Chili began as a humble outdoor/trail stew for a working/labor social class, and the ingredients were chosen first because of their taste, durability and availability – as well as for their contribution to the practicality of preparation and not-always-available funds.

It is said that San Antonio, Texas is the birthplace and heart of chili and chili con carne (chili with an ‘i’). These chilis begin and end with the sauce – a unique, rich, robust and fiery blend of chile peppers (chile with an ‘e’), spices, vegetables, tomatoes and usually wine or beer and/or liquors. But it’s the word carne (kar-nay) that is the difference between the names – it means meat – whether beef, pork, fowl, or sea creature. Chili may be served with or without meat, but let’s say for the record that meat is a critical ingredient – in Texas anyway.

Beans, and even tomatoes, with this dish are a point of ‘purism’ for some, again as to what is considered to be critical or not. Originally, if meat options weren’t always available or lacking in quantity, then beans certainly made the dish as hearty and textural as was needed for hard-working trail folks. The portable dried legume was originally used in this saddle-pack dish in a multi-task form – as flavor and texture, as an excellent source of protein supplementing or replacing meat, and as a surefire way to stretch out the portions. I suggest tomatoes in minor use as a cohesion of texture and flavor.  It's all up to you.  Out on the range with a campfire, using limited and simple food preparation tools, a one-pot meal was certainly preferable. To have protein, vegetables, carbs and flavor all in one pot was a very sensible time-and-cost-efficient plan. That purism idea however, at least in San Antonio, rejects using beans whatsoever. They say, chiles and meat, buddy, now that’s chili!

Fresh meat was not always a given out on the trail, other than the small rabbit/ vole/ venison/ snake type findings in the wild, which was rarer than regular. Any trail-packed meat was usually dried or salt-preserved (oftentimes jerky), which was rinsed and then re-constituted in this dish through the moisture of the sauce. The high level of flavor and spice from the chiles was a necessity to overcome those negative aspects of non-refrigeration and food conservation instability, not to mention their ability to render dried or inferior cuts of meat to a tasty edible chew.

As the dish evolved to urban areas of San Antonio, local cart-vending ‘Chili queens’ would market the dish from huge pots in the town squares and Military Plaza. The flavor and tenderizing attributes of this sauce allowed them to utilize cattle-drive and other cheaper-sourced meats this stockyard town provided to present their recipe variations, bringing a unique and delicious offering to local folks on the street as well as visitors to the Alamo city, who then spread the notoriety of this dish about the country.

Nowadays, some folks prefer chili prepared with pork, and some with beef. Then there are those who for dietary or religious reasons are not able to eat either, but it ain’t over yet. Try turkey breast/s (around 2 pounds each), also diced and marinated – the final turkey meat 'shred' texture is very accommodating to this recipe, and the flavor, well, as we said – we do rely on this amazing sauce. Folks didn't guess I had used turkey in this when it was used.  But a great assortment of flavor and texture is to use two or all three of these base meats. Some cooks use ground sausage and/or hamburger, but I would say that the resulting texture as well as the altered spice and fat level are not necessarily traditional or expected for this dish.  For now, stick with the shredded textures here.

I first made this version of chili while living in San Diego, another town of great Mexican influence. However yes, I do choose to use beans. The dried chiles were not difficult to find, and I learned of using tequila as a marinade from an ancient little Mexican man who lived next door. This has been a great party food, as everyone can make the final version their own by choosing from five or ten toppings offered alongside.

This recipe is a nod and allegiance to that original trail stew. I include as personally preferred the tomatoes/paste, jerky, beans and liquor in my recipe here, but the flavor and heart of this dish are foremost focused on the chiles.

Let’s git’er started.

Makes about 6 quarts – requires pretty much a full day to properly create – serves a very generous dinner to around ten to fifteen folks, or a casserole type side-dish to a pot-luck party or social event of twenty to thirty friends –  

(or one of me) 

Tools: Large heavy fry pan (cast iron, non-stick or similar); deep, at least seven-quart sturdy stew pot or Dutch oven with lid; cookie sheet or sheet pan; food processor or blender; spice grinder (former coffee grinder) if you have one; large lidded container or gallon-sized zip-lock bags; slotted spoon; nylon or wooden spatula; cutting board and chef’s knife.

Marinade prep time: a quarter-hour.  The meat (total at least four pounds after trimming as much of the hard fat and gristle as possible.  Best, closer to five) is first diced to approximately one to one-and-a-half-inch chunks, then marinated in the following marinade.  It may sound unusual but the finish is worth it. Because of this and the long braise time, lesser-quality collagen-filled meats are preferred. Beef chuck roast and/or pork shoulder and/or turkey breast (or a combo of the three, excellent!) make the best protein and texture option.  The turkey alone, obviously, does not require the lengthy marinade and braise, but is cooked to a nice shred and the mouth-feel is just lovely.

     Marinade 

          (excellent for any beef/pork/poultry choice

                     pre-grilling,  pre-roasting, pre-BBQing) 

                    

            – into blender or food processor:

  

                  1  small container frozen orange juice concentrate,                                                                         thawed to pourable – about 6 oz
                  1  small-med onion, rough chopped
                  4-6  cloves garlic
                  1/3  cup lime juice
                  1/2  cup tequila, whiskey and/or bourbon
                            (not expensive top-shelf, but drinkable) 
                  1/2  cup strong brewed coffee 

                  1/4  cup soy sauce

Process till smooth.  Place non-turkey meat chunks and pour marinade over in the zip lock bag/s (air squeezed out), or sealable container, chilled, for at least two hours (best four hours), and massage every once in a while to maintain an even contact.  For turkey (that has been partially cooked in steam/roast/microwave heat and then cooled and diced) – about one to two hours max; likewise bagged and chilled.  In fact, I par-cooked the turkey in the microwave at three-quarter power to achieve the same semi-doneness, then diced up, which was very easy.  If mixing meats, add the chunked turkey to the other marinating meat/s one or two hours before ready to start cooking.

If a non-meat chili is desired, then the lengthy marinade and braise can be omitted, and diced-up par-cooked chunks of winter and/or raw summer squashes, hearty sauteed mushrooms, fried firm-style tofu, broken-up prepared ‘veggie burgers’, etc may be added singly or altogether about a half hour prior to finish – with that finish being about an hour of simmering/baking time.  Select marinade ingredients you like to use initially in the cooking.

The vegetables and tomatoes will have a perfect rise in flavor if roasted to a light char in a hot oven and/or broiler first.

Marinate raw chuck roast, pork shoulder and/or partially cooked turkey.  Carefully drain well and reserve all of the marinade mix and chill.  Pat dry, setting meat chunks on wire rack or paper towels to dry and to come to room temperature.  Place dry marinated turkey bits in a temporary container.  Fry non-turkey bits when dry, single layer, in hot oil in med-high pan till browned on all sides.  Several batches will be necessary.  Remove with slotted spoon or tongs to the same temporary container (excess rendered fat and oil then is removed, cooled and reserved for use later in the process).  

All meats after finishing with marinating and cooking will then be added to the early sauce to braise and attain a moist and tender texture.   Deglaze hot browning pan with half a cup of water, and add this liquid with set-aside meats.

Homemade chili powder:  

Prepared store-bought chili powder mixes contain at least 12-15% sodium and also a sizable amount of sugar.  These additions reduce the quantity and potency of the actual chili portion of the powder mix.  Salt and sugar (usually light brown) can easily be later added to your homemade chili powder mix as it is used, if desired.  Should you ultimately choose to use store-bought chili powder because of time or availability constraints -- Spice Island, Morton & Bassett or Penzys' are tested best.

Making your own chili powder will prove usefully delicious with many other dishes.  It is an investment in time and effort, so finding a bulk spice source will prove invaluable.  

Most markets now offer a nice assortment of dried chiles, and this fresh blend holds no equal. When choosing the dried chiles, smell their aromas, feel the texture. They should be clean and flexible; smell rich, feel supple – almost like quality leather or oil-card stock, not brittle or papery.  The amount range listed below is in relation to the size of the dried chiles available. 

Dried chile peppers are to be stemmed and seeded, and roasted briefly in a hot, lightly oiled pan – mashed into the hot surface with a spatula several at a time till the aroma rises (about five to ten seconds a side). Roasting on a sheet pan in a 350° oven is also an option.  They'll deepen in color and crisp up.  Remove to cool a bit then break up into one-inch chunks. 

 

4-6 Anchos or dried Poblano chiles

         (prepared as above)

6-8 New Mexico/Anaheim dried chiles,
          chiles de arbol, or Ristra (prepared
          as above)

4-6 Pasilla dried chiles (prepared as above)

(the above-listed self-ground dried chiles should 

make about 3/4 cup)

1 tbs each dried thyme and oregano
          (Mexican oregano if you can)

1 tbs ground coriander

1 tbs dry ground mustard (seeds if available,
          to be ground fresh in spice grinder)

1 tbs ground dried ginger

1-2 tbs ground cumin – as you like cumin

2 tsp canela (Mexican cinnamon), ground in

         spice grinder (reg cinnamon is fine)

1 tsp celery seed or 2 tsp celery salt

1 tsp fresh ground nutmeg

¼ tsp ground cloves (pods if available, ground

         fresh in spice grinder) – go easy on this

1 tbs salt (half this amount if using celery salt)

1 tbs sugar

1 tbs fresh ground pepper

1 tbs ground white pepper (a nice floral note)

2 tbs dried chipotle chile powder

¼ cup (4 tbs) ‘smoky’ and/or ‘sweet’
          paprika, as you prefer

2 tsp cayenne pepper (more heat may
         be adjusted later)

Put the dried chile pieces and salt and sugar in the processor or blender first. Pulse several times to aerate and mix, then blend VERY WELL till all is a fine powder. It will take some encouragement on your part with your machine. If you have a spice grinder (a former coffee grinder specifically earmarked for use with spices – no longer to be used for coffee grinding), the coarser processor-ground spices and dried herbs may be then transferred and ground to powder in the spice grinder.

The minimal salt and sugar will aid the dried chiles to grind down, so be sure and process them together, then blend in all the other pre-ground ingredients and dried spices together after the chiles are finely ground. You may find it easier perhaps to do batches of the other ingredients (depending on the size of your blade bowl) and blend them together when done. I sift the ingredients through a sifter or fine-mesh strainer when done – and re-grind any bits that didn't sift through.  Store in a well-sealed container or zip-lock bag in a cool (refrigerator) or colder (freezer) location. Makes about 2 cups.

Roasted ingredients:
           1-2 medium/small-sized red onions, diced ½ to ¾ inch
           2-3 bell peppers (depending on size), any color, 

                    sliced ½ to ¾ inch by about two-inch strips 

                    (BUT sweet red, orange or yellow are the BEST)

          1 28 oz can whole tomatoes - packed in juice, NOT puree or sauce, 

                   drained, pressed/drained of tomato inner liquids 

                   and broken apart – dry-ish tomato bits only, 

                   reserve drained liquids 

                  -or- (not to be roasted) 28 oz canned ‘roasted’ offering,                                                          drained.  Diced.  Reserve liquids.  Set aside. 

                   If your choice is NOT to use tomatoes, omit them and use 

                   2 cups water later

          8-10 cloves garlic (about one bulb), peeled, halved flat lengthwise                                          1-2 tbs cooking oil (or reserved browning fat)

Roasted ingredients prep time: Quarter-hour.  Place all the above vegetables (not if using canned roasted) on a flat sheet pan or rimmed cookie sheet, drizzle with oil and mix to cover the pieces, spread to a single layer, then lightly salt and pepper, and roast in very hot 400̊+ oven for about 10-15 minutes max, or until tender and nicely darkened on the edges (broiling at the very last minute or two may aid with the char, watch constantly with this step). Fine dice or mash with a fork the cooled caramelized garlic and blend well into upcoming bacon skillet, and reduce the size of any other veg bits down to bite-sized if necessary. 

Set aside covered in fridge, this will be added to the chile at the end.

Simmered ingredients:
           6 oz (½ package) thick-sliced bacon, cut into
                   ¾ inch bits

           2 tbs canola or vegetable oil

           ½ cup homemade chili powder 

                (use at least 2 tbs for every pound of protein)

           2 quarts (8 cups) chicken or veg stock, water, 

                    or a mix of the two

                   (if not homemade, boxed is best, check for low 

                   sodium levels and preservatives)
           1 large or 2 small onions, diced ½ inch

           2 medium carrots, diced ½ inch
         3-5 Serrano chiles, veined and seeded, medium-fine diced 
           2 stalks celery, diced ¼ inch

           1 or 2 bunches of cilantro, stems only, minced well

                    (tops will be used for garnish) 

          The reserved canned tomato liquids from the
                   roasted tomatoes used -or-

                   2 cups water
           1  heaping tbs tomato paste

           1 ounce (two hefty handfuls) corn tortilla chips 

                   crushed to a powder – about ¼ cup

          the deglazing liquid

           ¼ cup (4 tbs) Worcestershire sauce
          2-4 oz quality jerky (beef, elk, bison etc as desired),
                  rinsed briefly in warm water till pliable but still stiff,
                  cut into ¼ inch strips against the ‘grain’
          2-3 oz sun-dried tomatoes (rinsed well and dried off, if in oil), 

                  diced ½ inch
          2-6 chipotlé chiles, finely chopped, with adobo
                  sauce (optional) - at least 3 tbs

Simmered ingredients prep time:  Twenty minutes.  In large skillet, carefully bring bacon to fry at medium-high heat till done, and remove bits with slotted spoon. In rendered fat, add the onions, mashed roasted garlic, carrots, celery, chopped cilantro stems, and Serrano chiles (all these vegetables could be placed in processor and pulsed to a coarse 'relish' consistency for an easier time-saver) and carefully bring to caramelize in the sauté.  Next stir in the tomato paste and caramelize as well. Now blend in 4 tbs of the reserved fat drippings (supplement with the oil if necessary) to the pan and bring to gentle heat, and stir in the chili powder sprinkled over the med-hot oil and work with spatula into the heat, mashing all the ingredients into the oil till blended, and heat till darkened and thick.  Carefully mash and stir for a minute or so.

The aroma will let you know you done good. Don’t burn it!

Thin this aromatic paste with the reserved marinade, and blend well. Carefully fold everything to a cohesive smooth texture.  This isn’t just a weird use of alcohol and fat. Some spices and flavors are best and fully released (bloomed) through the heated introduction of fat, water and alcohol. Carefully simmer down, stirring regularly, until again VERY thick and nearly dry – cooking off most all liquid, therefore also the alcohol.  Alcohol merges molecularly with water, so removal of water is the only method to really remove alcohol (it doesn't 'boil off' in a sustained simmer of a liquid as is often promoted, the alcohol only leaves with the liquid); with this, any worry of residual alcohol need not be given any weight. Yes, the kids or sensitive friends can eat this.  Remove paste from pan and heat.

Chili final preparation prep: Quarter-hour.  Cooking time: at least two hours.  Meanwhile, bring Dutch oven or large stockpot to heat containing the stock, canning liquids or water, deglazing liquid and any reserved tomato/vegetable liquids, about half a tablespoon salt and Worcestershire sauce – all tolled, you should have about 3 quarts of liquid. To this, whisk in the aforementioned chile paste and blend well.  Bring to boil, whisking somewhat regularly for at least five minutes, till reduced by about a fourth, breaking down the vegetable bits in the liquids to a cohesive stock to smooth and thicken some. 

Next fold in the marinated par-cooked turkey chunks and browned meat cubes and return to a light boil for just a minute, stirring occasionally but deeply with spatula, then reduce heat to low and simmer VERY gently for about – well, for what seems like forever – at least two hours or more, covered, and allow to reduce again in liquid volume by another one-fourth at most. The finished amount of sauce should be around a quart and a half to two quarts.  Check for sufficient moisture every 20 minutes or so, while stirring up from the bottom with flat spatula and making sure nothing is scorching.  

This may also be BEST done in a Dutch oven or oven-safe sturdy pot, covered, in the oven at about 325-350° and braised for the same amount of time and a fraction of the amount of stirring frequency – about once per hour (NOTE: the oven version requires less monitoring and gives an even surrounding heat and resists scorching).  If cooking turkey only as the meat option, reduce the initial chili powder broth liquid to a quart and a half prior to adding the turkey chunks.  Simmer or roast the meat and sauce for only one hour, until the meat easily shreds.  Do all the other tasks as written.

Check at two hours for tenderness and easy shredding, also for consistency.  If not tender enough, return to heat for at least another 20-30 minute sets and check again. When meat is fall-apart tender and gravy is cohesive yet only a minimal bit soupy, remove from heat and mash/stir to break down a good part of the meat chunks into shreds (which will then absorb an additional amount of sauce), then fold in the powdered tortilla chips – the masa corn taste certainly is traditionally noticed – and pretty much required for final thickening, and lastly add the beans (if desired, see below).  Return to heat for another half hour to blend flavors.

After that half hour (whether in the oven or stovetop), the following final steps are to be done on stovetop. The meats should be shredded – the simmered vegetables almost invisible, and the aroma: well, just amazing – and the beans, creamy yet individual.  Texture now should be thick and robust.  This is the time to fold in the bacon chunks (chopped up more if necessary), the minced up chipotlé chiles and adobo sauce, the jerky bits and the sun-dried tomato bits and stir in well.  Finally, more gently, fold in the set-aside bite-sized roasted vegetable ingredients as well as their accumulated juices. 

Finally, bring on a low flame, covered, and simmer very lightly for another good ten minutes or so to bring all to the same temperature and final rich thickness.  No need to bring to a boil, just a gentle re-heat.  With a soft spatula, wipe down the (now steamed) accumulated caramelized crust around the top rim of the roasting pan back into the sauce.  Taste and adjust seasonings. Turn off fire, stir a final time, again cover.  Let rest fifteen minutes to bring all the flavors to a 'steep' and cool to serving temperature.  

Observation:  Making this a few days prior to your event, chilling and re-heating at 350̊, covered, for a half hour will greatly raise the flavor, just as miraculously happens with spaghetti sauce. 

Note: For a perfect circle of ‘heat and savory’ balanced round to ‘cool and rich’ for the full enjoyment of the palate, at the very last, stir in quality dark unsweetened/bittersweet chocolate (just about an ounce, or a couple of squares), broken into small bits, blended well into the still-hot yet completely finished chili (do not cook the chocolate). A tablespoon or two of Dutch Cocoa will work as well.

Very nice ending.

Serving toppers: Chili is great as it is – in a bowl, big spoon and not a lot of talking – just slurping, mmm-mmming, contented sighs, and a belch or two 

– but it can be served with any or all of the following toppers generously sprinkled over:

Shredded aged parmesan, cheddar (yellow or white), asiago, jack and/or Cotija cheeses; thin-sliced fresh green onions/scallions (white and green part); diced fresh sweet red onions (rinsing onions right after dicing in a strainer under cold water helps reduce bitter heat); fresh avocado chunks; broken up corn/ tortilla chips; jalapeño nacho slices; sliced radishes; fresh chopped cilantro or parsley; fresh sweet (or frozen, thawed) corn kernels or the corn relish in this blog; corn nuts; sour cream or Greek yogurt; one or more of the great salsas in this book (Salsa Sorpresa, Plum Loco, salsa fresca, salsas verde and roja, Pico de Gallo) and never forget, lots of fresh-sliced lime wedges.

One has to understand the requirement of 'sweet' within spicy dishes.  It isn't a foremost taste, but more rather a calm back-taste – sitting at the back of the discussion, listening to the louder spice and heat, finally offering a nice quench and a nod of neutral attitude to the interaction.  It isn't pushy or self-promoting, but rather a sensible clasp of mutual agreement that makes it all work well together.

The amount of ‘sweet’ will be dictated first by the orange juice concentrate in the marinade; however, that sweet strength will have greatly diminished over the lengthy time of cooking.  Plus, the meat and vegetable caramelization offers a bit, as well as the addition of bittersweet chocolate (but again, very minimal). Chili should have only a barely discernable take on sweet, and only to balance the heat of the chiles. Some cooks add molasses (unsulphured, preferably) a tablespoon or two mid-way, to ensure this balance, and to introduce a back taste of earthiness. Smell the molasses first, listen to what your 'ear' says.  Let your own idea of balance lead you with this idea, it ain’t bad. 

A friend claimed his chili success was due to making his 'sweet add' by melting in at the end a handful of 'Red Hots' – a heart-shaped hot cinnamon candy.  Certainly worth putting your ear to.

Beans. Yes, beans. Traditionally for areas outside San Antonio, pinto and often red beans are used, but I have to say I love a third bean to use as well, and that’s the Caribbean black bean. A lovely full rounding of color, flavor and texture. One small 15-18 oz can of each of the three, drained and rinsed of canning liquids in a colander is just texturally, proportionally and deliciously fine for this dish.  Often, canned surpasses dried/cooked in texture and flavor – one doesn't always know how 'old' the available dried beans are if one chooses to go that route – whereas the canned are stable and controlled by a steady production volume.  The beans should be added for at least a half hour in the dish to blend flavors.

Other vegetables that can be added that last half hour or so, although not at all traditional, could be diced summer squashes, sliced okra (frozen or fresh), green and other legume beans, rinsed sliced sautéed leeks, diced fresh tomatoes, diced artichoke hearts, diced roasted eggplant, fresh or dried reconstituted mushrooms, etc. In other words, leftovers can be well utilized here.  Ultimately, I recommend staying as traditional as possible.

Chile can be served over pasta, hot dogs, fried potatoes, between crisped buns, over a pile of corn chips, or piled high just as it is. 

IF YOU TRULY NEED A BOWL SOONER, EASIER AND SMALLER:

Makes about 2-3 quarts, one pan.  Takes more like an hour and a half to prepare and cook.  Use ideas from the above recipe and finishers for a pretty dang good faster delight.

     

        2 slices thick-cut bacon, diced ½"

        1 lg onion, diced medium

        1 carrot diced med-small

        4 cloves garlic, minced

        3 serrano chiles with seeds, diced small

        1 bunch fresh cilantro stems, minced well

            (tops reserved for finish)

        ¼ cup (4 tbs) chili powder, homemade is best

                (Store-bought Morton & Bassett, Spice Island, 

                or Penzys' are tested best)

        1 tbs cumin

        ¼ cup (4 tbs) dry white wine or dry sherry

        splash Worcestershire sauce 

        2 lbs quality large-grind ground beef (80/20 or 85/15)

        1 can Rotel-style tomatoes with chiles, about 10 oz

        1 pint water

        handful of crushed to a powder tortilla chips

        salt and pepper to taste

        1 tbs honey, molasses and/or orange juice concentrate

        2-3 limes

In large, deepish frypan/saucepan, fry bacon till browned and crisp.  Remove bits with slotted spoon, place on paper towel, leaving rendered fat in pan.  In fat, sauté onions, carrots, cilantro stems and peppers (with pinch of salt) till lightly browned and tender.  Again these may be pulsed in the processor till small chunky first.  Add garlic, stir in well and allow to become aromatic.  Move the vegetable mass to one side of pan, raise heat to high and add the ground meat, breaking apart and spreading out as much as space allows, lightly salt and pepper.  Without stirring, carefully brown hamburger on the side that is touching the pan, paying stirring attention solely to the sidelined vegetables and spices.  When that part of the meat shows decent browning, reduce heat to med-high, break apart meat, and blend all the meat-veg mass together, sautéing for a few minutes, further breaking down all bits to a med-small crumble.  Deglaze with wine, bring to heat and add chili powder and cumin, blending well.  Simmer gently, and allow to become almost dry again.  Add canned Rotel tomato and pepper mix, water, Worcestershire sauce, powdered chips, bacon bits, and lastly the honey, molasses and/or orange juice concentrate and bring all to simmer.  If desired, now would be a good time to fold in your choice of bean, whether red, pinto or black.  One 15-18 oz can, drained, will be perfect.  

Either simmer stovetop gently, covered – stirring regularly --- OR --- covered in 300̊ oven for a good hour, but the longer the better, like an hour and a half.  The liquid should have reduced to a nice rich gravy consistency. Just fifteen minutes prior to serving, stir in a tablespoon of fresh lime juice.  Maybe even consider a tablespoon or two of chipotle chiles and their adobo sauce all diced up.  

NOTE:  Just for fun, reduce the ground beef amount to one pound, and visit your local favorite TexMex taqueria.  Buy a pound of carnitas to replace the removed pound of beef.  Add the pork carnitas during the last half hour of simmer or roasting.  Yummola big time.

                       

Let’s have a bowl of RED!!!

Plain beans: Those who prefer the dried-then-home-cooked bean, should allow the dried beans (half pound of each, well rinsed, picked through for anything not a bean) to soak in a generous amount of salted (1 tbs per quart of water) cold water in the fridge overnight, then drained and well-rinsed, re-watered (this time NO salt, it hardens the beans at this point) at least a couple of inches over the top of the beans, and simmered for forty-five minutes to an hour till just tender. Drain and re-water and NOW season to taste with salt as well as a half tsp of baking soda, and boil another half-hour more till done and creamy soft, drain and fold into the chili to simmer and absorb the chili flavors. All this water changing and the baking soda help to neutralize somewhat the, um, ‘gaseous’ element.

Prepared bean dish: Before the second ‘boil’, separately sauté either ‘mir poir’ of celery, onions and carrots – or the ‘trinity’ of bell peppers, onions and carrots – along with garlic – in pork fat provided by rendered bacon, fat back or salt pork. When all is beginning to get a golden caramelization, add broth/stock instead of water, with half the salt and baking soda, plus spices (thyme, oregano, basil, rosemary, tarragon, and/or sage) and finally a prepared ham hock, chunks of sauteed fat back/salt pork, bits of chorizo, diced prepared sausages or the shredded pork in this book. Engage the second boil of the beans, simmering gently till the beans are tender and mash easily, from half an hour to an hour, depending on the beans (check).