Recycling

FRENCH TOAST

Pain Perdu (pan pair-doo)– that’s the French name for what the Americans call French toast. Of course, to them it’s not a name as much as it is a description -- ‘lost bread’. I’m sure every culture has a name for it, but everyone can agree it’s a great way to enjoy bread and eggs in a different fashion. Although the French gave a working name for it, referring to re-cycling un-fresh bread that was considered ‘lost’; for me, I think it’s better named Pain Trouvé (pan troo-vay). In English, that would be ‘found bread’, since soaking the dry or stale slices in custard recycles the bread and gives it a new life.

I love those slices of bready-eggy goodness, whichever moniker that is hung on them. French toast can range from big steak-sized slices of custardy country bread to small thick ovals of diagonally sliced paisan baguettes soaked in a richly sweet cinnamon/vanilla/nutmeg batter, and pretty much deep-fried. I’ve had it baked – arranged together like a bread pudding or broiled singly, lounging in a pool of Crème Anglaise. I’ve had slices sprinkled with cinnamon sugar; and I’ve had slices slathered in fresh, sweet butter and rich pure Vermont maple syrup. Yes, and there’s been the ancient sweeteners of honey, used for eons, and molasses – not as old but showing a little ‘gray’. The custard can be flavored with citrus zests or minced candied ginger or crushed minted candies, or fruit brandies and extracts from around the world. And there’s always adding along with (or instead of) the expected butter and syrup, a few dollops of fruited yogurt, diced fresh fruit, and/or quality or homemade preserves along with a sprinkle of granola. Yesssir! All is well in the world with this one!

As many ways as I’ve had it prepared or covered, I do have my preference. I’ve unhappily had French toast that is stiff and crunchy, a result of frying too hot in too much oil or butter. I’ve had it soaked so full of custard so that it’s prepared a bit still undone and soggy inside. These two unfortunate presentations performed together are culinarily stifling. I prefer my French toast more mid-stream, so to speak -- to be much less oily, dry-feeling actually, and for the texture to be firm and pliable, but not mushy – or crisp for that matter. Not too sweet or rich, but relying on the accompanying flavors and textures riding on it to give it the final finish.

It’s a currier of good things – a flatbed truck if you will – waiting for the flower-covered framework and waving beauties to transform it into a float in the homecoming parade.

As with the Latin rellenos (see recipes in this blog), I propose further down here to cross the sweet/savory divide, however not only trying this dish as a sweet breakfast submission but also considering it as a savory belly warmer – for any meal. The flavoring spices need not be sweet affected, but can assume different clothing so to speak – like perhaps grated Parmesan cheese in the egg with sautéed ham and peppers in a brown or white gravy gracing the surface. Or perhaps rosemary and minced chives blended into the beaten egg, with sautéed mushrooms in cream and sherry flowing richly over the slices. It’s worth checking out. See what sounds good to you. Herbs and spices abound, gravies and sauces are more than can be listed. Open your imagination and have fun.

So, here for you to try, basic French toast, as I like it – and hopefully you too:

For preparation using store bought fairly fresh bread, in determining quantities - as a thumbnail thought, I consider one egg per two or three slices (depending on the size of the bread). To that I add half as much milk as egg volume. That is saying, for four bread slices, use two eggs, a couple of tablespoons of milk (evaporated/canned works great here), and blend very well. In fact, beat the eggs ‘to death’ first, then add the milk and then the spices and a pinch of salt (no sugar!). We want the ‘white’ part of the egg to be broken up into the other liquids as much as is possible – avoiding the monster ‘gloop’ that crawls off the bread after dipping. This custard mix should be poured no more than ¾ inch deep at a time into a flat bottomed bowl – a cake pan or Pyrex pie pan or casserole dish is perfect (metal pie pans usually have pinholes in them, I found out the hard way) for applying the custard mix to the bread.  For home made breads or stale or dry breads, then these quantities will need to be experiemented with.

Apply a very small amount of butter, neutral oil, or heart-healthy margarine to the medium-hot (non-stick is best) pan, and tilt the pan to disperse, then use the flat edge of the spatula to even it out, so that none will move when the pan is tilted (rubbing a wrapped – but opened on one end – firm stick of butter onto the surface of the pan till it is moistened is the easiest way to lightly oil and flavor the pan). Set the half-inch to five-eighths inch thick slice of bread into the egg mixture for just a second or two, pick up with tongs or a fork and flip over, again just a beat of time, and then lift out (dry or stale breads will require more soaking, but still don't completely 'liquidate' the bread, OK?). Be sure all the surface of the bread is covered but don’t soak! Do NOT leave slices in the egg batter while waiting for other slices to cook! Personally for me, French toast that is soggy-egged is just not pleasant. It will be necessary to hold a moment to drain off excess, or even to scrape on the bowl edge if necessary – and finally place in the waiting pan.

There should be a hushed sizzle when the pan and bread meet. It’s just a greeting of old friends.

Lower the heat to medium or medium low. This isn’t a race – give yourself time. You are gently roasting the slices more than frying them. When done, they will be firm and not mushy when touched, and a toast-like surface that is not crunchy. No blacks spots or dark marks, just a nice deep golden with tanned brown skipping about the surface.

Options:  Chocolate, strawberry or other flavored milk might be considered, as well as perhaps a favorite egg-nog during that let's-just-be-bad-and-go-all-the-way time of year.  Also, flavored syrups (the aforementioned chocolate and strawberry, berry, nut - oh yes hazelnut!, and citrus for example - or a combo of any of the above) - and then one can always use citrus zest - can you imagine orange zest with a bit of orange juice concentrate and/or orange extract?  There are a lot of options to consider for a sweet expression of French toast.

Give the savory concept a shot (as mentioned above) as well as the sweet. You may find this dish introduced more into your lifestyle than you thought.  Instead of syrup or fruited yogurt topping - you'd then give gravy (so many kinds - chicken, turkey, beef, pork, sausage, etc), white sauce, cheese sauce/fondu, nut sauce, salsas a shot (all recipes given here in this blog).   Plus try using savory French toast like you'd use rice and other grains or polenta/grits, potatoes, pasta - under a main course like stews, kabobs, roasted veggie dishes, BBQ, Asian or Italian favorites (chow mein or spaghetti sauce!) - endless ideas!   

With that in mind, using the French toast slices as the wrapping of a sandwich is a very novel and great idea.

This ain't no ordinary sandwich!

FRENCH TOAST SANDWICHES

The premise here is to take a favorite sandwich and upgrade it by using French toast for the bread layers. OK, next recipe. So – wasn’t that easy? I’d eaten the famed delicious Croque Monsieur (croke-m’sur – a batter-dipped ham and cheese sandwich) in Paris, but it was a bit too fatty and messy. I altered it a bit. Surprised?

The biggest psychological hurdle is technique, which actually isn’t all that hard. If the choice is making many sandwiches — like for a sleepover for the kids or a Sunday brunch get-together with friends – then grilling all the required number of egg-dipped bread slices in advance, and joining at prep time with the filling options is much easier. At the last moment, simply wrapping the assembled sandwich and filling ingredients in foil and heating in a low (200°) oven for warming and cheese-melting is best. But if making only one or two sandwiches, then easily staying with the stovetop is sufficient.

For my ham and cheese, I twist the familiar breakfast ‘sweet’ toast to the savory realm by adding just a pinch each of curry and of salt (you should use salt with the sweet version as well) to the egg mixture. I have my sliced ham and cheeses ready (I’m a big Swiss/Gruyère lover, but give Emmental, fontina or manchego a shot!) plus a choice of quality, hearty, full-bodied mustard – a full-bodied French (Dijon) or German or brown mustard is ideal here, thinly applied with the ham and cheese; and then I prepare my pan. This sandwich is rich and moist enough that any need for a dressing, like mayonnaise or Thousand Island dressing, is not necessary (did I say this?).

In the medium to medium-low heat pan, cook an even number slices at the same time. On completion of one side, flip half the slices, quickly top them with meat/vegetable and cheese slices and any other condiments, and place the unflipped second slice on top – cooked side down over the filling. When the first side of this stack is done, flip the entire sandwich to the uncooked side – which will be enough time and heat to melt the cheeses, gluing it all together, and warm the meat and filling -- about three to four minutes a side – remember, low and slow.

I find this presentation an ideal cool-weather lunch or brunch, coupled with a robust hearty soup – and may I shamelessly add that every soup I have in this book would be beyond great. The options for this French toast creation are as exhaustive as there are choices of sandwiches. I started out making my original favorite of ham and cheese – like the Croque. But one can always experiment – as this book encourages – using that mindset toward discovering a personal favorite.

As mentioned above with the savory French toast (give it a look), experiment with flavor/herb additions to the egg mix: For a lox and cream cheese sandwich, perhaps a minced dill addition; or if a bacon and tomato with Swiss sandwich, perhaps basil chiffonade; or with a peanut butter and jelly, try cinnamon and/or nutmeg and use raisin bread. Remember, just a pinch of the herbs or spices for each sandwich! For shredded chicken and pepper jack cheese, perhaps a dash of Tabasco hot sauce or pinch of cayenne; and for roast beef with cheddar and roasted red peppers and onions, a dash of Worcestershire and gratings of parmesan cheese to the egg. Try the asparagus spear sandwich found here in the book and a hint of nutmeg in the egg mix.

I don’t have to say how trying otherwise traditional sandwiches would work. Can you imagine a revamped Reuben? Or hamburger? Or BLT? Or grilled cheese? Or tuna melt? Or gyro? Get it? Got it? Good!

Outrageous!