Salsa, leading - and following a classic step

It moves gracefully, winding a nuance of sexiness -

a slow and tasteful start to a spicy and

sweaty finish that begs for more 

 SALSAS

There is something to be said for Mexican style and cuisine – or cocina, I should say. The magnificent culture seems to have the basics perfected in their every bite and aroma. It is genius at using caramelization of sugars and proteins of meats and vegetables to maximize every flavor. Insisting on FRESHEST of everything in a dish – fruits, vegetables, fish – and the most inventive preparation of meats - brings flavors that were intended, and then some, in a dish. Utilizing a huge variety of herbs, spices, extracts and essences in a very clever and resourceful range of styles - all give perhaps the most imaginative and creative example of delicious cookery to my limited but enthusiastic knowledge. Mexican, Asian and Italian cookery are perhaps the three most influential cooking styles to wrap themselves into the American kitchen and significantly influence home window-box herb gardens and corner eateries.

But as for Mexican, we have the salsas. The word ‘salsa’ is Spanish for ‘sauce’. We middle-Americans see sauce usually from a French/Continental perspective: cream or stock based, rich, thick and a warm envelopment of earthy goodness. Sure, it’s nice when a sauce can give all of that kind of promise, but as I said, there’s something to be said for the Mexican way.

The following recipes are by no means an attempt to recreate authentic Tex-Mex or Hispanic/Mexican foods. I’m simply offering my version, my twist, influenced by the cultures I lived so long with during my years in California and Texas.

The fun in life is having reality

bite us on the fanny and remind that

the unexpected can be quite wonderful!

SALSA SORPRESA©

(sol-suh sor-pray–sah) ‘surprise’!

I created this recipe over thirty years ago, with the influence of a tasty middle-eastern chutney my roommate had tried and told me about (the old ear?). I made a batch based on his generic description, and he tried it and said mine was better. I knew I was onto something. Most every culture in the world has a preparation of these basic flavors: Heat/spicy (peppers, hot roots), cool/rich (nuts, cheese, oil), and smooth/savory (bright herbs and grasses, vinegars). The greatness of this simple-element salsa (or pesto or chutney) is that it accents most every food and dish. I knew I wasn’t inventing anything new, but oddly I still haven’t run across this blend before or since.

This salsa has won first place in the San Antonio Current Magazine salsa contest three years in a row. The first time I was showcased with other category winners on TV. The next two years I actually got CASH! The third year was my last opportunity to win first place in any of the three categories, as I’d aced the other two of them. One more win required I had to retire.

I’d had a big salsa-making session with an old friend. A bit of wine, ahem, was consumed while we made many gallons. She portioned hers and froze it. I gave all mine away to clients and friends. Sounds kinda like the ant and the grasshopper, doesn’t it? Well, when this contest rolled around again, I entered and submitted a fresh-made quart just like other times. Historically, every time I’d win, there’d be a pre-warning of the outcome, of sorts. I’d submit a quart, the same as all the other entrants, and a few days later they’d call and ask me to submit another quart because they’d – and then there’d be an embarrassed pause – because they’d eaten it all. This happened every time before, which I'd happen to also win. That final year, the familiar call came in again. Only this time I was temporarily out of pocket, being between paychecks. I called my friend who froze all hers those many months before, and she loaned me a six-month frozen quart to re-submit to those greedy, undisciplined judges. I thawed out the zip-lock green pouch and put it in a jar and ran it over.

And I won three hundred bucks.  I'm a happy guy. 

Prep: Fresh cilantro is best cleaned in submersion. Keep the cilantro bunched as purchased, and fill a clean sink or tub with cool, clear water. Submerse the bundled cilantro bunches, shaking and swirling in the water to loosen the dirt so that it will sink to the bottom of the container or sink. It may take another fresh soak and rinse. Shake off all the water possible from the leaves and set in a colander or on towels to drain further (or you can certainly use a salad spinner). Cut the cilantro bunches as you put them into the processor, stems included (remove big and rough stems), making sure to keep lengths at around 3” or less to avoid winding on the blade stem. A food processor and cutting board are the only tools needed. Oh, and a large bowl and mixing spoon.

Raw garlic cloves may be ‘softened’ in harshness, if desired, by roasting while in the paper skin on dry medium-hot skillet, shaking occasionally, till paper skin is dark in spots. Remove skin and use as directed. Some cloves (raw or roasted) have woody ‘stem’ ends, which should be trimmed off in preparation.

Ingredients:

10-14 bunches fresh cilantro

        depending on size 

2 cans (26 oz. each) pickled ‘nacho’ jalapeño
        rings. Best is a brand with carrot and
        onion pieces included (in 'rajas'). Drain well,
        reserving about 1 cup of the vinegar solution

1 pound shelled walnuts; ‘pieces’ or ‘bits’
                    are less expensive

8-10 larger peeled garlic cloves (about 1 to 1½ bulbs) 

1/2-3/4 cup Virgin olive oil (as you prefer)

Preparation: Process bunches of well-drained cilantro, chopped in controlled bunch lengths to avoid wrapping the spindle of the processor, adding drizzled amounts of reserved vinegar only as needed. Too much liquid will not allow the cilantro to process adequately and will be too runny. If processing the cilantro in batches, drain vinegar from chopped pulp and reuse. The finished processed cilantro should resemble thawed frozen chopped spinach -- moist but not runny. Excess vinegar may be drained after setting a few minutes (This ‘green vinegar’ is great for salads etc). Add chopped cilantro to mixing bowl.

Process drained nacho rings in several processor pulses only, until they resemble coarse pickle relish. With the opened nachos can, lifting the rings and rajas from the vinegar with fingers leaves seeds behind, which lessens the heat of this salsa.  You have that option.  For a festive color mix, a few ounces of roasted sweet red peppers (jarred or homemade) may be used along with the nachos as well to lessen the ‘heat’.  Bottled cherry peppers (sweet or hot) may be drained, stemmed, seeded and added as well.  Add to mixing bowl.

Process olive oil and garlic cloves until garlic is well incorporated, no bits. Add to mixing bowl.

Lastly, process the shelled walnuts in pulses and streams, until a coarse meal. Doing this step last 'cleans' up the processor bowl of residual liquid bits.  Add this final ingredient to others and mix all well with a gloved hand or spoon. 

Can be frozen in zip-lock bags or snap-top food storage containers. Or stored chilled in those two versions or in canning jars or reused lidded jars. Keep chilled, but this salsa isn’t notably sensitive to being out a while.

This recipe makes about a half-gallon. It can easily be halved, but I’ve found that it makes a great gift – if not a regular condiment to most every meal. It keeps well (over a month) refrigerated, so it isn’t ‘delicate’. Salsa Sorpresa may be frozen without change to texture or flavor (if you actually have to. The color may darken some, but that is the only notable change).

May be used in dozens of variable presentations, but the foremost uses in feedback I’ve gotten are:

As a dipping salsa - cold or room temperature

With cream cheese smeared in a fresh tortilla or on a warm
               toasted bagel or English muffin

Mixed a heaping spoonful with a cruet of olive oil and balsamic
               vinegar salad dressing – or with any favorite salad dressing

Mixed with mayonnaise and a bit of fresh lemon or lime juice and
               serve as a new variation of tartar sauce with any fish or
               fish salad.  Excellent on catfish!

A must on fish tacos

Mixed with sour cream, thickened yogurt or melted Velveeta-type cheese
    as a topping for vegetables and potatoes

As is, on sweet potatoes - hot and sweet - a fantastic marriage

As is, with limejuice on sliced fresh fruit or melon, cucumbers, tomatoes
                and tropicals

As is, with olive oil on pasta, or with spaghetti sauces, or on pizza

            On eggs, any style, not just for breakfast anymore!

            On steaks, pork chops, ham, fowl, BBQ, sausages, game, meat loaf . . .

            On potato skins, fries, cottage fries – potatoes any way

Packed into the pit hole of a halved avocado, as is or with perhaps
               bits of shrimp or bacon?

            With black, red, pinto or any beans, re-fried, bean soup and borracho
               beans – even haricot, lima, peas and other legumes

Over cottage cheese, a great rich and flavorful lightweight dish

Over rice -- and popcorn (yes!) – grain dishes: bulgur and tabouli, lentil,
               couscous, kasha, polenta etc.

Use instead of relish on sandwiches, in potato and macaroni salads

            Add to your favorite Asian, Mexican, Greek or Italian dishes (think
               chop suey, tacos, gyros, pizza!)
            With hummus, baba ganoush or Greek yogurt - a perfect dip
            As a marinade and grill coating for chicken, pork, fish (shrimp!) or beef

MOLE MY WAY

(mow–lay)

My Mexican friends used to laugh and make fun of me when we’d be at a favorite Mexican haunt, as I used to pronounce ‘mole’ like I was at a bullfight, saying ¡Olé! But with an ‘m’. It’s correctly pronounced with a gentler emphasis, and that being on the first syllable. Just thought you’d like to know so you won’t embarrass yourself. Ahem.

Prep: It’s easiest to have all the ingredients prepared and ready, since almost all the final work will be performed in a blender (best) or food processor. Vegetables, fresh peppers, garlic (could be roasted before for an even deeper flavor instead of sautéing), nuts and spices will all be finely ground with liquids. Dried peppers will be first pulled apart to remove stem and seeds, then roasted on the dry hot skillet (pressed into heat with a spatula until aroma rises, flip and do again). They are reconstituted by full immersion in at least 1½ cups very hot tap water in deep small bowl for at least twenty minutes (hold down with small dish or cup). Raisins may be reconstituted along with at the same time. Drain and reserve the liquid. Nuts can be then quickly roasted in same hot skillet to toast slightly (just a few minutes).

Tools: Large frying pan. non-stick is great; sieve or strainer; flexible spatula; cutting board; blender or food processor – the blender offers a finer grind

Ingredients

            1     can 28 oz diced or whole tomatoes,
                        broken/chopped up (drained,
                        reserve liquid)  OR              
         1½     lbs fresh cored and diced tomatoes
                        (roasted would be excellent)

            with ¼ cup soaking liquid

1     med onion, rough diced (roasted with
                        the tomatoes would be great!)

         3-4     dried poblano peppers (called ancho) –
                        wrinkled flat oval shaped, deep eggplant
                        color, smells almost like chocolate

2     dried pasilla peppers – long, slender knife-
                       shaped, dark shiny red

1     fresh jalapeño pepper – stemmed, seeded
                       if desired, and medium chopped
                       (roasted would be great!)

           ¼     cup raisins (dark or light) reconstituted
                       with peppers (try dried pomegranate
                       seeds, yes!)

1     tbs Worcestershire sauce

1     tsp dried oregano (Mexican oregano is best,
                       the sweetest), crumbled fine
                       in palm of hand

2     cloves garlic, medium chopped (again, roasted
                       with the other vegetables
                       would be great!)

          fat pinch (¼ tsp) each allspice and cloves (or whole,
                       fresh ground in spice grinder)

          ½     tsp ground cinnamon (or broken up bits of
                       whole ‘canela’ packaged cinnamon,
                       in spice grinder or blender)

          ¼     cup shelled almonds, slivered, whole or sliced,
                       lightly toasted  

                                  or
          3-4   tbs almond butter (getting easier to find - even Jiff makes it) 

           1     rounded tablespoon unsweetened Dutch cocoa
                       powder plus 1 tbs honey; or 1 rounded tbs
                       powdered hot cocoa mix; or
           2     squares (½ to ¾ oz) of solid dark chocolate bar, chopped

          ½     tsp each salt and pepper

Preparation: Drain peppers and raisins, reserve liquid. Separate pepper chunks. Process limp peppers and canela cinnamon in a quarter to a half of a cup of the reserved soaking liquid until smooth. Use only enough liquid to process very well to consistency like thickened cream. This will need scraping down with the spatula at least once or twice. You may wish to press the rich pulp through the strainer with the flexible spatula or spoon to remove any tough skin/bits or missed seeds if desired. Next process the raisins, nuts, allspice and cloves to as fine a paste as possible. Do the raisins, nuts and spices first, and then finalize this mix in the blender jar with a cup or less of the sautéed tomato and onion mass (next in recipe) along with a bit of the soaking liquid and/or tomato liquid, added to the nut ‘crumble’ to encourage smoother blending – once again scraping down at least a couple of times.

In skillet, sauté onions in about a tbs of oil until tender and beginning to caramelize. Add garlic, jalapeño (all these if not roasted, if so, add roasted bits to pan now), then combine the salt, pepper, and oregano, a minute later add the Worcestershire sauce and sauté until aroma rises, vegetables are tender, and contents look dry then add the tomatoes. Simmer the tomato addition to thicken a bit and remove ‘raw’ taste, about five minutes. Add processed peppers and nuts mix. Simmer until thick and rich, at least twenty minutes. Shut off heat, and add the chocolate choice, blending into all the sauce. Set aside to allow cooling sufficiently enough to safely blend a final time in the processor or blender.

Purée all ingredients and work until richly smooth. Add more water or soaking liquid (no tomato juice or dairy) if necessary to bring it to a thick, creamy consistency. Chill when cooled to store, and to safely blend flavors (best option, at least several hours or overnight), but don’t consume it cold. Serve at a cool room temperature as a salsa or dip; or heated over meats, fish/shellfish, vegetables or grains, or simmered with prepared meats or vegetables to absorb flavors.

Very rich, very tasty. Serve a multitude of ways – among them with roasted meats, fish and fowl, over shredded chicken and cheese-filled tortilla enchiladas, over your favorite ravioli. With sautéed bacon and squash. Over rice and pork chunks. Dip cheese sticks into it as a dip. Makes about a quart, depending on the reduction and straining amounts.

   SALSA FRESCA
  FRESH SALSA
(sol-suh fres-kuh)

In this recipe, nothing is cooked, but there is some preparation. Red onions, or any onion, are best in season – almost sweet. But most onions found in the market may be from storage and the ‘heat’ runs a little strong. To mitigate this, dice onions to size (they don’t ‘process’ well), and run under cool water from the tap in a contained strainer and drain well. This will remove some of the sulphuric acid released by cutting and dicing.

Usual fresh salsa (salsa fresca) recipes do not include cucumbers, but I find the refreshing moisture, texture and taste to be a wonderful contribution. Cucumbers can be diced with having been peeled only, or peeled then halved lengthwise and the seeds scraped out with a spoon, then diced. I prefer keeping the seeds and their surrounding juices in this recipe. Some cucumbers (English and Asian) don’t need to be peeled, but peeling (or partial peeling) the others helps remove the bitterness and the tough chew of the skin.

Tools: cutting board, food processor, mixing bowl

Prep: all ingredient vegetables are to be diced to a quarter-inch size. This is a good time to give the food processor a try. I recommend processing each ingredient separately, and well watched to keep the salsa from becoming ‘soup’. Do not process on full speed, ‘puree’ is not an option, but use the ‘pulse’ button to chop at several careful hits ONLY.

Makes about a quart, store chilled.

Ingredients:

Processed ingredients

  1     six to eight-inch long cucumber, peeled
               if necessary, halved and cut to
               one-inch chunks

  1     medium green or red bell pepper, stem
               and seeds removed, one-inch chunk diced
  1     bunch cilantro, about one cup rough chopped
               (may be processed with peppers)
  1     small to medium sized red or sweet white
               onion, hand diced to about ¼ inch, rinsed
1-2    jalapeño peppers, stemmed, and minced very
               fine or see below

  1     pound tomatoes hand-diced, or one 17oz. can
               tomatoes, drained and also hand diced
               (use processor only if you feel comfortable,
               it’s easy to make tomato juice here)

  1     clove garlic, minced very fine or see below

  1     tbs balsamic vinegar (medium grade grocery
               store quality is fine)

  1     tbs olive oil

  1     lime or lemon, juiced - about 2-3 tsp, plus
               the zest if possible

 ½    tsp salt

 ½    tsp fresh ground pepper

For ease, the garlic, jalapeño peppers, balsamic vinegar, juice and oil, and any of the following optional ingredients may be processed all together quite finely. Then adding another ingredient such as cucumber (that will need to be less processed) pulsing last in the same processor bowl, making it easier to remove the fine chopped ingredients.

Options: 1 tsp horseradish; 1 stemmed, seeded and veined habañero pepper – part or all (VERY hot but delicious); 1 tsp finely-chopped fresh dill; and/or 1-2 tbs very cold vodka (sensational flavor! – try the peppercorn vodka in this book)

Preparation: Stir well, chill at least one-half hour to blend flavors; serve chilled is best, but room temperature is fine. The loveliness of fresh salsa is that it isn’t just for chips. Use instead of relish or dressing with hamburgers, potato and pasta salads; in a green salad; with mayo, thickened yogurt or creamed cheese on vegetables and potatoes. Give it a shot on flatbread or focaccia breads with or without cheeses; and even as a version of gazpacho with the combination with fresh tomato or canned vegetable juices (like low-sodium V-8), or with one or two cups of lime juice and diced raw fresh fish for a great ceviche.

Fresh and flavorful, rich and savory,
Luck must dwell there.

       GREEN SALSA 
       SALSA VERDE  (sol–suh vair–day)

An ancient sauce -- with the primary ingredient, the tomatillo, being a veritably unknown fruit other than in the Americas before a few centuries ago. It can be consumed raw, cooked, pickled or roasted. Distantly related to the tomato, of the nightshade family (actually more closely related to the gooseberry), but definitely not a ‘green tomato.’ In fact, some varieties are purple.

The sauce has a very distinguishing aroma and flavor, with a fresh, almost lemony aftertaste. Tomatillos were once only found in Hispanic based countries or in the US in stores catering to the Hispanic culture. Fortunately for all of us, most stores now sell this unique fruit. They are golf ball to tennis ball sized, and they grow and sell wrapped in a protective leaf that is easily peeled to remove. Under that wrap is a slightly sticky surface that can be carefully rinsed off in slightly warm water.

Tools: cookie sheet/roasting pan, cutting board, mixing bowl

Prep: Two ways: Plan A: Tomatillos may be halved or quartered (cored if necessary) and roasted in an open pan in a 400° oven for about fifteen or twenty minutes along with a rough-chopped medium-sized onion and garlic, all smeared over in one tablespoon olive oil, lightly salted and peppered. Use all the solids and liquids resulting from this roasting.

- or -

Plan B: One could simply place segmented tomatillos, garlic, and the quartered onion smeared with the tablespoon olive oil, salt and pepper, in a microwave-safe vented container, and cook on high for three to four minutes, or until tender and done. Or merely sautéing or boiling these ingredients till tender. These latter methods certainly create less of a roasted flavor, but are just fine otherwise.

Both vegetable results should be tender and juicy.

Original recipes call for chicken broth as the added liquid, but I choose to keep this dish vegetarian; but please feel free to choose your flavor liquid.

Makes about a quart, store chilled.

Ingredients:

   2     tablespoons olive oil

1-1½  pounds tomatillos, cooked
   1     medium onion, cooked

 1-2    clove garlic, cooked

   1     small bunch cilantro, about
                one cup, fresh, cut into
                two to three-inch lengths

   1     can (7 oz) mild chiles -- Ortega or
                other brand roasted green
                (poblano) chiles

   1     jalapeño or Serrano pepper, stemmed,
                fine dice, raw or roasted as desired

   1     bunch fresh green onions, roots and
                wilted tips removed, otherwise
                most all of stalk, diced

  ½    tsp salt

  ½    tsp fresh ground pepper

  water or vegetable broth

  juice of one-half lime or one-half small lemon

Preparation: Place all ingredients in blender or food processor and process until mostly smooth but just slightly rough, like creamy polenta, adding a bit of water if necessary. Chill to blend flavors. Serve cool, at room temperature or hot: cool as a dip; or warmed with meats or vegetables -- alongside sour cream or thickened yogurt with nuts and rice; or hot and steamy baked into roast pork, beef, foul or lamb. Simmered hot over chicken/melted cheese wrapped in tortillas – it is a miracle to the senses.

For a variation of taste and texture, the tomatillos and other vegetables may be included in this recipe without being cooked. This refreshingly alters the flavor, texture and acidic back taste. It’s flavorfully fun to try variations of this fruit.

Avocado sauce: For a bit of rich deliciousness, if you want to use this sauce as a cool presentation, like a dip or salad dressing, whirl a couple of avocados (peeled and pitted) in the processor when finishing the cooled salsa at the end.

Holy moly, or should I say holy-mole!

RED SALSA 

SALSA ROJA 

(sol-suh row-haw)

If you have a favorite Mexican or Tex-Mex hangout, then you most likely have a favorite table salsa that you shovel fresh fried tortilla chips into, a lot. Sadly, I’ve had some that honestly tasted like they came out of a jar, and in Texas, that’s pretty much criminal. And then I’ve had some that I would have done illegal things to get the recipe. I go to those places mucho. And I taste and think. Eat audaciously more chips and salsa. Think a bit, and continue to eat and fill up. Without shame I usually ask for a second bowl. I love a good salsa, and so I guess I’ll save you the trouble (and heartburn – maybe). Here is a couple of great recipes for you to save time and travel -- just stay at home and shovel the stuff in your face while still in your jammies.

Tools: although a cutting board is fine, the texture is more a fine chop, like a, well, a salsa, so the food processor is the best bet here (a blender can go to too smooth). Alongside that, for the first way, a large pan, frying pan, sauté pan, or shallow Dutch oven. For the second way, a rimmed sheet or cookie pan capable of oven heat. Preheat oven to 400°.

Prep: Fresh, ripe and quality ingredients and seasonings are the ultimate elements. Avoid any rough stems, cores, bitter or aged produce. You know the drill, just be aware, careful and you’ll be deliciously rewarded.

Makes about two quarts, keep chilled.

Ingredients:

3-4    lbs fresh ripe tomatoes (the meaty
             roma is best); stemmed, cored
             and cut in half or rough chopped,
             or quality canned, fire-roasted whole,
             drained and rough chopped

2-3    tbs homemade chili powder (recipe in this
             book) or a quality purchased prepared
             chili powder
 2      white or yellow onions, medium sized,
             peeled, quartered or eighthed

4-6    fresh red or green Serrano or jalapeno
             peppers, veined and seeded as desired,
             chopped small
 2      tbs canola, vegetable or olive oil
½      tsp oregano
 3      cloves garlic
½      tsp each salt and pepper (to start,
             then adjust at the end to taste)
 2      chipotle peppers, finely chopped
             (optional, but the smoky
             flavor is a nice enhancement)
 ¼    cup olive oil
 1      tsp sugar/honey
 2      tbs wine vinegar
 1      tbs Worcestershire sauce
 2      fresh green onions (white and green
             part), chopped just under ¼ inch
¼     cup fresh chopped cilantro
¼     cup limejuice, about 4-5 limes

Preparation: Two ways: Plan A: Pulse/process the raw ingredients on top half of list separately or in controlled groups, if possible, to avoid making a watery soup in an effort to chop everything to the small size desired. The size of the chop is up to you. Keep the size chunk between ‘relish’ and ‘creamed peas’, if you comprehend my size reference.

After all is processed, it will appear rather pink, as the air whipped into the red salsa brings a ‘white’ cast of micro-bubbles. In the medium hot pan, heat oil to just shimmering and add the processed goods. It’ll sizzle then quiet down. Reduce the heat to barely a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mass loses the bubbles and returns to a great rich red, about ten to fifteen minutes, and thickens a bit. Let cool, and add the bottom half of the list and chill well. It’ll change your mind about buying jar salsa.

- or -

Plan B: For a bit of additional roasted flavor, working only with fresh tomatoes (roma is best), or adding the can roasted after the other ingredients are roasted, cut the tomatoes in half top to bottom, cut out the hard top stem part, and lay out on the pan cut-side up. The peppers, garlic and onions, rough chopped, may be slathered lightly with the oil as well as drizzled over the top of the tomatoes; salt and pepper, and lay out single layer on the sheet pan. Place the pan in a hot (400°) oven and roast until charred on the edges, shriveled and rather ugly looking – about twenty to thirty minutes (may be broiled for the last minute to push the char). Let cool to a civil level of handling and slide everything in the pan (ugly chunks, juices and oil) into the processor along with the rest of the bottom list. Pulse sparingly until it looks like your favorite salsa -- just under chunky, but still has ‘texture’. Chill well.

Options: You can add a quarter cup or so of the finished ‘mole’ to this roasted salsa for a more complex flavor. Also try chopped (or added last and pulsed in the processor) pitted black Niçoise, Calamata or your favorite cured olives, makes a wonderful addition. Get chips (or not), and just plan on munching. Enjoy. And dip, eat, dip, eat, dip, eat . . . repeat.

Quick roasted red:  about ten Roma style tomatoes, halved; half a large or one smallish onion cut into one to one and a half inch cube; five jalapeno peppers, halved, seeded/veined; five Serrano peppers, halved but leave seeds and veins; one large poblano pepper, halved and seeded/veined; one bulb garlic cloves, hulled - 1/4 cup olive oil.  Place all the ingredients cut side down on a half-sheet pan or similar with an edge.  Dot the garlic cloves among the tomato halves.  Drizzle with the oil, and salt and pepper to taste.  Roast in 400° oven on top rack (about five inches from top burners) for ten minutes, then raise to 'broil' for another five.  Remove and let cool.  In processor, pulse in batches with one cup water and 1/4 cup mix of lime juice and red wine vinegar.  Adjust salt.  Serve warm or chill.  Lasts about one week, but that shouldn't be a worry.

Seductive, sensual, arousing -
just one taste, and other loves are forgotten.
The lips touch,
The eyes opened.

         GUACAMOLE (wok–a–mow–lay)

Quite possibly the most known of all salsas, if not the best loved.

Ah, the avocado: Rich, mouth-feel lovely, refreshing and cholesterol-free. Wow. This fruit, avocado (or aquacate – roughly translated ‘water fruit’ in Spanish) is such an amazing offering: It won’t ripen until after it is picked; has more potassium than bananas; has the highest fiber content of any fruit; its substantial oil content is unsaturated, and on top of everything else, it helps adjust good and bad cholesterol levels in the body. And finally, it was historically rumored to be an aphrodisiac – even back to pre-Columbian times. You didn’t buy it or eat it unless you were, ahem, a ‘busy’ socializer.

It should be noted that the leaves, stem, bark, peel and seeds are very unhealthy -- if not poisonous -- to some animals (i.e. some pets, garbage raiders, grazing animals); even the tasty flesh isn’t rated well with the health of pets and some birds, so be very mindful in the use and placement of the fruit, its waste, composting, and of growing the tree in the garden. Talk to your vet.

The taste and texture of the avocado is actually so completely satisfying, that merely a slightly mashed avocado with salt and pepper can be all that your taste buds and heart desires.  The additions beyond this are up to the idea of the maker, but remember, too many other things will lower that wonderful expericnce if not careful.

Tools: cutting board, mixing bowl

Prep: In purchasing an avocado, the most popular variety choice for use is the Hass avocado, whose skin is thick, dark, granular-textured and easily separated from the flesh when ripe. At inspection, the firmness should be slightly yielding to the gentle press; resisting like cold, firm, wrapped butter would. It should be heavy for its size, and free of dents, cuts, blotches, squishiness or discolorations. The stem cap should be in place, as bacteria may enter the cavity if this cap part is missing. Some shoppers check for ripeness by removing this stem cap to check the color of the fruit, which is accurate, but not very considerate of other shoppers.

To open an avocado, remove the stem cap (I’ve spit that ‘chunk’ out of too many guacamoles I’ve eaten), then with a chef’s knife cut the fruit all round from pole to pole down to the pit. A slight twist of the two halves in opposite directions will separate the halves, leaving the pit in one of the halves. Using a chef’s knife or a sharp knife of the same size and weight, rap firmly into the pit to embed the blade slightly into the pit and twist -- the pit should twist out easily with the blade. If this removal is sticky, difficult or too firm, then most likely the fruit is not ripe. Squeeze the thumb and forefinger on each side of the pit against the sides of the blade to eject the pit.

Next, to access the flesh, either cut each half in half and carefully peel the skin away from the quarter; or holding the half in one hand, use a large spoon to completely scoop out the flesh. Presentation and usage will dictate which style of access to choose.

Ingredients (traditional):

              6-8    medium to large avocados, peeled
                           and pitted, the flesh roughly cut 
                           to ¾-inch cubes
               2        medium sized tomatoes, diced small
                           (with or without tomato seeds/ juices,
                           as desired for finished consistency
                           of salsa)

  ½      small red onion diced small

 1-2      jalapeño or Serrano pepper, diced fine
               (seeding and veining for heat control
               is up to you)

 1-2      stalks green onions (spring onions,
               scallions), chopped small

   1       clove garlic, minced or diced very fine

 3-4      tbs or so chopped cilantro (to taste)

 juice of one juicy lime or lemon, about 2-3 teaspoons,
               plus the zest if possible

   1       tsp salt, 1 tsp fresh ground pepper

Gently stir all the ingredients together, only slightly mashng about half the avocado contents in the process. Overall, the salsa should be basically green, while the texture of the unmashed avocado chunks is as important as the mashed portion.

Makes approximately one quart to a quart and a half -- trust me, it won’t last long.

Options: Shakes of bottled hot sauce, a healthy pinch of cumin, a splash of balsamic or wine vinegar, dash of Worcestershire sauce, a drizzle of olive oil, fine diced sun-dried tomatoes, diced chipotle chiles -- or -- instead of the above fresh salsa ingredients, use one quarter to one half cup of Salsa Sorpresa and a few tbs lime juice.

Want a fun diversion that kicks it in a new direction? Think bacon bits; roasted sweet corn kernels; roasted chopped nuts (almond slivers, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds etc); diced cucumber; citrus chunks (pineapple, grapefruit, orange or lemon), crumbled bleu, feta or Cotija cheese; diced fruit (apples, mangoes, papayas, melons) – go cool or hot!

PICO DE GALLO 
MANGO AND BLACK BEAN SALSA
(peek–oh day guy–oh) or ‘beak of the rooster’

Some say that pico de gallo is the same as salsa fresca, or fresh salsa, which is a quick mix made with fresh tomatoes, onions, peppers and cilantro (it’s here in this book). I was ‘raised’ in my Hispanic community that true pico was NOT that recipe, but the one I have here. Differences aside, I’ve named the two differently for anti-confusion purposes, so just bear with me, I’m not always right (I can’t believe I put that in writing).

One doesn’t always associate ‘mango’ and ‘sauce’ in the same sentence. Leave it to the tropical sun and ocean-fresh breezes to conjure up another perspective. Like some chutney from the Caribbean -- this piquant and fresh version of ‘sauce’ is a unique and flavorful accent to pork, pancakes, pizza or pheasant. With versatility like that, you’ll have to know the recipe of this one, and use it often.

Makes about a quart and a half, store chilled.

Tools: can opener, sharp knife and cutting board, mixing bowl.

Prep: Mangoes are best cut by carefully running the blade from north to south through the mid of the flatter side, and carefully around the flat front and back of a hockey-puck shaped pit also running north-south. The skin is thick enough that it is difficult to peel (but if you have a great peeler, then go for that idea first), so taking the bowl-like sections of each half that has been cut around the pit, one can then criss-cross cut (about ½ inch scores) into the amber flesh down to the inner side of the skin. Then by inverting this ‘bowl’ of skin, it will cause the diced portions to poke outward like a cubist pineapple. These cubes can then be sliced away from the skin in their cube shapes. You can either trim the rest from the pit, or like most everyone else, the cook can nibble on this. They’re entitled.

Ingredients:

  2     cans (15 oz each) black beans,
              rinsed and drained

  2     fresh mangoes, medium to large sized,
              diced about ¼ inch to ⅜ inch
              (about 2 cups)

  1     medium sized sweet red onion, diced
              same size (if ‘strong’, run diced
              onions in sieve under cool tap water
              to reduce the hot vapors and liquids
              released by cutting, drain well)

  1     medium bell pepper, stemmed, seeded
              and veined, diced same size – color
              choice is yours

1-2    Serrano or jalapeño peppers, seeded and
              veined, diced small (optional)
  2      cloves garlic, minced
  3     tbs olive oil
  2     tbs red wine vinegar

 ¼    cup fresh limejuice, plus the zest if possible

 ½    tsp cumin, mixed into liquids

 ¼    cup cilantro leaves, chopped, amount to taste

Mix and chill very well. That’s pretty much it. No difficult tools, no special cooking or boiling. Just throw it all together then put on your shades, suntan oil and straw hat and get ready.

Options: Give a shot with some additional morsels of about the same size: Fresh (canned drained or frozen thawed) sweet corn kernels, diced tomatoes, chopped macadamia or cashews (the richer of the nut the better), and/or balsamic vinegar instead of the wine vinegar. Black bean paste – which now that I mention it, sounds pretty good here too, right? Just a teaspoon blended into the liquids adds a nice richness.

Sprinkle the prepared serving with a dusting of chili powder or cayenne pepper, which sets off the ‘sweet’ like magic.

        PLUM LOCO©        
 

Recipe Translation:  Taking a familiar recipe and making it new by ‘translating’ the ingredients consistently to a ‘new’flavor, or set of flavors.  In this case, the recipe for ‘salsa fresca’ or fresh salsa has been translated over to a ‘sweet/sour/spicy’ element by shifting each ingredient to a pickled or peppery sweet/sour-altered presentation:

Fresh salsa                      Plum loco

    Tomatoes                              Dried plums (nectarines, peaches,

                                                     mangoes, pears)

                                               Tomatoes (optional but still recom-

                                                     mended for a great base)

    Onions                                   Radishes

    Jalapeños                               Cherry peppers

    Cilantro                                  Cilantro and/or watercress

    Cucumbers                             Bread and butter pickles  

    Garlic                                     Pickled ginger                

    Lime Juice                              Lime, orange/nectarine, ruby red

                                                    grapefruit juices

    Olive oil                                  Olive oil

    Nuts (pumpkin seed, almond)    Nuts (the same, or walnut, hazelnut,

                                                    cashew or pistachio)   

                               

For my test batch I used the following measures (pink is first option choice):

  4-6   oz dried plums, peaches, nectarines etc., steeped

              in the cherry pepper vinegar (in small saucepan,

              pour over just to cover rough diced bits, bring

              to simmer, shut off heat and cover) at least 30

              minutes, stirring occasionally.  Let cool, then chill. 

   1    Bunch radishes (8 or so good sized), rough chopped  

   2    Pint jars (16 oz) cherry peppers (I used one jar each

              of sweet and hot) stemmed/seeded, squeezed, 

              drained, use drained vinegar for steeping, then

              reserve ¼ cup for moisture if needed.  

  1/3  Bunch cilantro and/or 1 bunch watercress (cilantro is

              ‘fresh’ tasting, watercress has a ‘bite’)

  1/3  Pint jar (16 oz) bread and butter pickles,

              drained from other pickle pieces                 

   1    4-6 oz jar pickled ginger (as what is served with

              sushi), drained 

              ½   pounds nuts (sweet flavored such as pecan,

                          macadamia, filberts/hazelnuts or Brazil etc)

                          processed to coarse, rough ‘sand’.  Buy ‘bits

                          and pieces’

 2-3   tbs  extra virgin olive oil

 2-3    tbs fresh limejuice, plus the zest if possible

 

I used my food processor to pulse each ingredient individually, then mixed all together.  Be careful not to process into a ‘soup’. Pulse carefully into a clean chop to a good quarter-inch dice or close to it. 

It would make sense to use good firm and fresh plums (although peaches and/or nectarines may be used nicely), although it would be certain that ripe and/or juicy fruit will render too much liquid and not have enough texture (nor will it hold up for very long). 

BUT

Quite serendipitously, I found that the dried fruit option holds much better with all the taste and fabulous texture we so like.  It was for a Christmas party, and even our 'gourmet' market had very little to offer in the fruit section other than a dozen varieties of apples.  At first I was quite frustrated, as I wanted this salsa to be the star at this party, and I reluctantly sought out the dried fruit section.  It ended up that the dried fruit version far exceeded my expectations in taste and texture, and was an incredible hit!  This treat then becomes an all-year option, and a surprisingly superior salsa in the end.  Mixing the dried and fresh presentations could be a tastily good idea as well, but only if used right away.  And along with the fruit, some seeded tomatoes offer a nice base flavor and texture as well.

Because of the sweet/hot nature of this salsa, it’s a wonderful addition to BBQ, meats and meat dishes, cream cheese (always), on a peanut butter sandwich, with most any sandwich instead of relish, with sour cream/crème fraiche/fromage blanc over sweet and savory dishes, over eggs any style, with cottage cheese, well, you know, almost everything. 

Just chips?  Go for it!