it's not easy being green

FRESH GREEN BEANS
with bacon and onions                 
serves six to ten

I have memories of being on my mom’s Aunt Peg’s property and going out into her garden with my brother to pick the beans.  The stakes in the ground with the wires and strings holding the bean vines were higher than my eight-year old stature.  That memory has stayed with me all my life.  The way she cooked her beans is now passed on to you.

We’ve all had green beans, and honestly, there isn’t a big ‘whoop’ here.  What most folks have rarely encountered is the incredible elusive sweetness that fresh green beans have the potential to impart.  The temptation is to boil the beans, and usually ‘to death’.  However, sautéing will offer a sweetness from the caramelization, as well as a fresh flavor that canned, frozen or day-old beans in the cafeteria line-up have never been able to offer.

This dish will knock your socks off, but only for the meal it’s prepared for.  The delicate flavors brought out by the quick caramelizing and braising are, sadly, easily evaporated over time; and although the dish is still wonderful as a leftover, some of that special flavor will have been lost.

Snapping beans is a long-time family memory for me as well.  All the kids were brought in, it’s a fun way to teach the little hands and minds how to participate, and not requiring a real ‘talent’, so no one feels inadequate in their contribution to the meal.

Tools:  large (at least twelve inch, if possible) sauté or fry pan and domed lid or heat-safe stainless type bowl to fit; cutting board; tongs

Ingredients:

          2-3     lbs green beans, string beans, haricot verts -- FRESH

            1     medium to large sized onion, sliced into thin half moons

            1     clove garlic, paper-thin sliced or minced

            1     12 oz package good, hearty/meaty thick-sliced bacon – apple wood smoked,

                           peppercorn, maple etc

            1     tbs canola or vegetable oil

½    tsp marjoram (or sweet Mexican oregano), crushed in palm of hand with

               opposite thumb when adding

salt and pepper to taste

            pinch of nutmeg

Preparation:  Once again we have that ‘too simple to be true’ type recipe.  The strength is in the freshness and quality of the ingredients, and the freshness to the table after cooking.

Snap the beans – snapping off the ends first, if tough -- and along with the ends, pulling off the ‘string’ that usually runs down the ridges of the bean; and snapping the rest in two to four inch lengths.  This is better than cutting, because the feel and texture of the beans becomes an awareness to the hand in the preparation, and the toughness is measured by the feel.  You will want to remove tough or damaged parts, as well as the ‘string’ -- it just doesn’t ever soften.  It’s worth the time and attention.

Cut the layered bacon against the length into ½ inch to ¾ inch wide strips (the French call them ‘lardons’  -- lar-doan).  Place in cool frying pan and bring both to medium high heat together.  Cook and separate the bacon pieces till limp and curling -- yet undone -- but they have rendered about half their fat, add the oil and continue to sauté on medium high heat while adding the onions.  The onions will keep the bacon from becoming crisp, as we want a flexible, rich ‘chew’ to the meat, not a crisp crunch.  Stir often.  Continue sautéing until the bacon and onions become golden.

Set the snapped beans in a colander and rinse well just prior to cooking.  Don’t shake off excess water (there should be about a quarter cup).  Raise the heat of the pan and bring the browned bacon and limp golden onions to a good, hot sizzle and add the garlic for just a few seconds, and then the moist beans to the hot pan and oils.  Set lid on pan and braise/steam (using the residual rinse water on the beans) for three to five minutes.  Occasionally remove lid and toss well, getting as much fat and flavor on all the bean surfaces as possible, another three or four minutes.  Sprinkle evenly all the spices and toss with tongs several turns to mix very well and caramelize bits of the beans and garlic in the hot pan a minute or two more.  Test-taste a bean segment for doneness – tender and yet giving still a hint of ‘squeaky’ crisp. 

Options:  It’s hard to add to perfect, but toasted slivered nuts, or other crunch is great. Fresh-diced or sliced tomatoes and garlic-sautéed button or wild mushrooms, or strip sliced roasted red peppers or a sprinkle of parmesan just at the end to melt and ‘crust up’ a bit . . . but try it first with just the beans.  Mmmmm.

Serve immediately.  You‘ll think you’re eating dessert.