Hot soup - a bowl of steaming love!

There's much to said for the magic that the roast imparts

Tastes and flavors are ramped up a hundred fold!

ROASTED VEGETABLE SOUP         serves four to six 

I lived in San Diego about a dozen years.  Nope . . . no long, cold winters there to justify a great soul-warming dish.  But the Mexican influence in so much of the food couldn’t help but touch the origins of this dish as well.  In fact, it was a beautiful, sun-washed day at the beach; a little taco shack served shredded beef and roasted vegetable tacos.  Mmmm, boy would this flavor be good in a soup, I found myself thinking.   So . . .

This soup is very easy to make, tastes wonderful – even more so on a chilly day, and has a hearty body that just wraps you in ‘comfort’.  The vegetables are as varied as you like; choose ingredients that are tasty to you.  Serves four.

Base proportion amounts:
         1-1½     quarts stock/broth (usually chicken or turkey)

                 ½     pound fatback/salt pork, trimmed of skin, quarter inch dice
            2½-3    cups diced vegetables         

               ¼    cup sherry or dry white wine

Prep and basic ingredient options:  Dice all the solid vegetables (the base mix of onion, celery and carrot – or mir poir, winter squash – acorn, banana, spaghetti, butternut; root vegetables – turnips, parsnips, sweet potatoes and potatoes; peppers – mild, sweet and hot; asparagus etc) to an easily eaten bite, about ½ inch to ¾ inch dice.  The softer vegetables can be sliced a bit larger, allowing for shrinkage (mushrooms; summer squash – zucchini, yellow, calabacita; tomatoes; cabbage – red, green, bok-choy, Napa; kale; spinach; broccoli; endive; onions/leeks/shallots; cauliflower; eggplant).  Then we have the pre-sized ingredients (peas – green, chick, baby and beans; lentils; sweet corn; barley/rice/grains; sprouts) and lastly the dried herbs and spices, minced or powdered, and fresh diced, chopped or chiffonade.

My preferred soup is not actually all vegetable.  As I mentioned earlier, I’m a huge fan of a pork base.  Whether a diced salt pork or fat back foundation, or a ham hock or bacon addition – pork is a huge flavor solidity.   Should you wish to remain faithful to vegetarian, then the flavor of the herbs and spices, caramelization, ingredient choice and morsel size will certainly create a very satisfying taste and texture.

In this dish I remove excess fat, dice and sauté the loose (but well-chilled) pork (or add the hock to the broth), and add the diced potato to fry for the base of most any soup.  The potatoes absorb the flavor (and a bit of the fat), take on a fried ‘skin’ (which I like), and become a great flavor and texture base in the soup.  While this is going on, I’ve placed the bite-sized diced roastable vegetables, spray oiled, salted and peppered, in a 400° oven on a sheet pan, or even better, on a rack over a sheet pan for air circulation, and have brought to wonderfully charred edges and aroma by the time tenderness has been imparted, about ten to fifteen minutes – pay attention.  The non-roastable ingredients include cabbages and kale, spinach or peas, grains, lentils or sprouts.  These will simmer to done in the soup.

When all the vegetables and pork are done, I remove all from the soup pan but the fat - remove all but 1 tbs, and supplement if lacking to provide that amount or more of final fat/oil plus another of heart healthy oil or butter  I add the garlic, herbs and spices to the hot fat/oil first, and as I’ve said, thyme is a great beginning, while other herbs and spices can be added – but are more than likely a personal taste thing, I’ll leave it to you.  To the fat/oil amount, match with equivalent amount of starch thickener – usually wheat flour – but rice flour, potato flour, cornstarch, kudzu, or tapioca flour will work fine - while arrowroot will be successful only if not associated with dairy.  Blend the fat and starch well, sautéing for at least a minute.  Consistent to my nature, to the roux I add a splash of sherry or dry wine, and cook and whisk well for enough time to cook the starch and evaporate most the alcohol.  The roux is then thinned with broth and/or canned evaporated milk.  The soup grows on adding more milk (two percent or thinned canned evaporated is best) and/or broth/stock to a good creamy consistency.  Or staying with a broth base and finishing with homemade or a quality boxed low-sodium vegetable broth or chicken stock/broth.  Bring to a simmer and add the ‘non-roastable’ ingredients.  Return to a simmer, stirring occasionally to avoid scorching, for about ten minutes to finish cooking the vegetables as well as the grains or lentils (grains and lentils would be the longest cooking ingredients involved; pre- or par-cooked is best, partial cooked to finish in the simmer and to absorb flavorful liquids in the process).  Add the pork, fried potatoes and roasted vegetables all together in the pot.  Simmer for a bit to bring to heat, and to finish all the grains/pasta (do a tooth test), and serve.  Salt and pepper to taste.  A dollop of sour cream, Greek yogurt, grated hard cheese or a pat of butter or olive oil makes a perfect finish, so you can begin.

Options:  Well, we can go back to that original presentation and use either leftover meats, leftover roasts or BBQ and shred them.  Or buy a cheap meat like skirt steak or round steak and brown very well on each side (but still dark red in the middle) with garlic and a bit of citrus rubbed into the meat first.  Sliced paper-thin and add to this soup.  Or meatballs.  Or meatloaf.  Or the shredded pork in this book.  Or . . .

Go to the beach, sleep for one-half hour in the sun and see what ideas you can come up with.

  

FRENCH ONION SOUP  
and everything else         
serves six to eight

I learned to make French onion soup in Germany.   Ha!  Naw, it was France, what did you expect?  But, of course, I had to alter it and make it my own, and to be honest, I like mine better.   I’ve always thought the traditional beef broth base, although delicious, was richly too ‘heavy’ – and some folks aren't a fan of strong store-bought beefy soup tastes. Plus, for vegetarian thought and veg broth base, there are considerations.  And finally, then putting it all back under the broiler to melt the cheese was just too much trouble, although the broiled chewy cheese is wonderful.  This version hopefully makes up for it anyway.  Plus, I once cracked a soup bowl under the broiler, and not everyone has an oven-safe earthenware set of soup bowls - and the metal ones are way too heated for safety in my mind – so this is my version.

I mean, who doesn't prefer the golden brown chewy texture and taste of broiled bread with cheese, but don't have (or not sure you have) the 'oven-safe' soup earthenware – simply try broiling just the bread (diced up for easier eating) and cheese on an oven-safe pan and adding it atop your finished soup that I present following here.  Yessiree. 

You may choose to use canned or boxed beef broth – but may I suggest trying a more quasi-'home-made' version that really suits this dish.  It's an extra hour, but so worth it.  Aside from the onions, the broth is the foundation of this entire dish.

Tools:  large saucepan or stockpot (7 quart), large regular or non-stick fry pan, both  with fitting lid, cutting board, slotted spoon, wooden spoon

Prep:    Cutting, cutting and more cutting.  The onions and shallots are to be peeled (save the papery peelings), trimmed at the ends, halved north-to-south, and sliced north-to-south into half-moons, about 1⁄8 to ¼ inch.  Break the half-moons apart.  When simmering the soup, always keep at a simmer – never boil – for optimum flavor and texture results.  Serves six to eight.  A good two hours to create.

Alternate Prep:  stock base:  Before beginning with the onion part of the recipe, in a large fry pan, place about a pound to pound and a half of leg marrow/oxtail bones, sliced in rings, to medium heat, covered.  Minimal fat or oil.  Let roast till golden brown, flip and repeat.  If using a non-stick pan, you know you cannot dry-roast at high heat, so maintain a careful medium temp.  Each side about half an hour.  With the flip to the second side, add a teaspoon of tomato paste (or one large tomato cored, diced and seeded), a stalk of celery and a carrot or two, roughly chopped.

At the end of the hour, you'll start the following onion soup recipe in the non-stick pan, so plan your cooking gear accordingly (like moving roasted bone mix to stockpot when adding the liquid).  In the meantime while the onions are being prepped and sautéd, add 2 quarts water and 2 quarts low-sodium store-bought chicken or veal stock/broth to the beef bones and vegetables. To this, a tied bunch of parsley, two sprigs fresh thyme, two mashed cloves of garlic, two bay leaves, a tsp of salt, a pinch of allspice or nutmeg, and ALL the removed dry onion skins.  Cover and let simmer for the entire hour that the caramelizing onions sauté, skimming foam and scruffy stuff off the top once or twice.  Halfway through, lift out each bone circle and poke out the marrow with the handle of your wooden spoon into a small container.  Mash well with a fork and return to stock with the bones.  Simmer well as long as you can afford, but at least that second half hour.  If you can give it a couple of hours, wonderful.  Even deeper flavor.  Taste and adjust seasonings. Strain well.  You should lose about a quart of evaporated liquid in the process. This step may be done up to two days in advance and then re-heated alongside the onions.

Ingredients:

            Basic French onion soup:
               4-5    pounds onions, hardball sized - red and
                             yellow (yellow is best, but a mix is 

                             wonderfully ok, with about 3/4 
                             yellow)            

       3   tbs butter  

       3   tbs peanut oil or a good neutral flavored oil 

                  (I prefer grapeseed oil) 

    2-3    cloves garlic, sliced in matchstick
 2    large shallots (lemon-sized) or 3  smaller (optional)
 2    tsp thyme, dried, and crushed into the palm
            with the opposing thumb when adding
            the recipe
 1     bay leaf, remove when done
 2     tbs flour
1/2   tsp each salt and fresh cracked pepper 

   1-1½  cups dry white wine - non-oakey, like sauv blanc, 

                   Pinot grigio, vermouth or Beaujolais

      3    quarts (12 cups) half chicken or veal stock/broth,
           the other half beef - low sodium

                 or the above recipe (best)

    ¼    cup sherry 
 1     tbs brandy (splash), like Cognac or Courvoiseir -
           or what you may have generically
           or lemon juice or sherry/champagne vinegar
¾ to 1  lbs Gruyere (original to recipe), Swiss,
           white cheddar, fontina, mozzarella etc, grated

     ¼    cup grated parm (about half ounce)
4-6   slices hearty, crusty peasant-type bread -
           French, sourdough, multi-grain, cubed 3/4"                          

            

Preparation:  In large non-stick covered frying pan (or the stockpot if it is non-stick or hearty enough metal to resist scorching) begin the onion odyssey by heating to medium hot and melt two-thirds the butter with two--thirds the oil and bring to heat.  Carefully add all the onions and salt and pepper and just ‘go’.  A tiny bit of water at the beginning may help to bring steam to the reduction process, but you most definitely want to sauté it out, as caramelization will not happen with water/steam present, including the water that is in the onions.  Stir by ‘flipping’ with tongs or a spatula to bring the onions underneath to the top, keeping the onions from scorching (always).  Sauté on medium-high heat, covering between ‘flipping’ helps, until the onions have reduced by at least half, have gone limp and are able to be more easily stirred.   Reduce heat to medium, add the garlic, and continue to sauté now uncovered for at least another half hour – maybe closer to an hour, stirring/flipping occasionally.  When darkish on the bottom, add a splash of water and stir in to ensure darkening remains in with the onions and not stuck on the pan.  Sauté until dry and darkening on the bottom again.  You will do this three or four times.  Continue sautéing until you have a gorgeous deep-colored mahogany brown; while also a seemingly comparatively small quantity – but what a flavorful small quantity it is.  Yes, it’s not a quick soup.  But oh, is it worth it.

To this caramel mass, add the dry sherry and stir up as you did with the water, sauteeing until almost dry.  Add the thyme and bay leaf and the flour to the onions, stirring well.  Sautee for several minutes. 

Add this onion mass to the stock pot.  Pour the heated broths/stocks and wine into the stockpot on medium heat, blend well, and bring to a gentle simmer. Meanwhile, in the removed-from-heat frying pan, add the rest of the oil and butter to the coolish pan, no fire under, then add the sliced shallots and a bit of salt.  Turn on a meduim-hot fire and heat the pan, oil and shallots together.  Sauté for about ten to fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally with wooden spoon to incorporate any of the onion bits and caramelization left behind until all is nicely golden-brown.  With slotted spoon or tongs, remove from pan, drain on paper towels and allow to crisp.  These crispy fried shallots are a finishing topper for the soup.  They're optional, but so so so nice.

Meanwhile (I know, back and forth), in the stockpot, simmer for at least a half hour until the liquid begins to appear a bit thicker -- like a very light sauce and no longer a watery broth.  By this time, the whole house just floats in the sweet onion aroma and the savory edge of the wine.

 

During this half-hour time, prepare your bread and cheese.  Dice the bread into ¾ - 1-inch cubes, press into the residual oils in the frying pan to mop up the last of the flavors and grill lightly in the frying pan on low to dry them out, to absorb those flavors and give a light crust.  They may be held to a lighter crisp in a very low oven afterward if you like.

Grate the Swiss cheese at the last minute onto a clean dry board or paper.  In generous-sized deep soup bowls, place a handful of the warm, crunchy bread cubes, and top it with a handful of the shredded cheese.  For me, and 'handful' is about a quarter cup.  Top all with a tablespoon of grated parm.

Just prior to serving the soup, remove the bay leaf, add the brandy and stir well.  Taste and adjust the seasonings.  Ladle the hot, steamy soup over the mounded bread cubes and cheese, top the soup with the broiled cheese cubes (if made) and the crispy shallots (if made), perhaps some fresh diagonally sliced scallions greens -- and literally dig in.

Options:  Just a generous spoonful each of black bean paste (earthy taste and texture), Hoisin (rich, roasted, grounded taste), fish sauce (salty-sugary goodness) and/or oyster sauce (not fishy, just a nice bite) in the mid-range of cooking in either broth will add a lovely earthiness to this recipe, and not ‘recognizable’ but as only ‘what is that wonderful hint of taste?’ question you will get.  Smell each one, let your 'ear' be your guide as to which if not all to use.  Go light.  They're wonderful, trust me.

And then there’s always the grated dried cheeses such as the aforementioned Parmesan, asiago, Romano, Cotija, pecorino etc. to add.  Ever had this soup with a float of Brie?  Yowza  And of course you can always sprinkle crushed roasted nuts into the melted cheese, right?

Big Option:  Even if you aren't a garlic lover as I am, this is such a nice and delicious addition.  Along with the onion slices, add ten, fifteen or even twenty peeled whole garlic cloves.  The lengthy gentle saute in oil and butter will render them a lovely sweet flavor - not at all harsh or strong - like the onions become.   Deep, golden, soft, very flavorful and a nice 'bite' surprise when eating the onions and other ingredients.  Fantastic!

Wear a bib.

AND EVERYTHING ELSE

This recipe is the same start, with the onion soup brought almost to completion, just with, well, everything else.

Extra Ingredients:    In the frying pan just after the shallots are added to the soup

       1     tsp butter – or heart-healthy non
                    water-based margarine – or
                    1 tsp olive oil  

       1     slab ham steak, at least a half inch thick
                    (about half to three-quarters
                    pound), diced ¾ inch

       1     small to medium zucchini, halved and
                    sliced ½ inch

       1     small to medium yellow squash, halved
                    and sliced ½ inch (the fatter
                    end could be quartered)

            ½     to 1 pound mushrooms, sliced,
                          as you like mushrooms

½     tsp sweet oregano or marjoram

            ¼     tsp (pinch) nutmeg

and any leftover vegetables you may have –
             root, leaf, stem and gourd
beans (lima, string, garbanzo or kidney, fava etc),

             leaf greens (spinach, turnip and
             mustard), tomatoes (added last),
             corn (succotash), etc.

Preparation:  Sauté the cubed ham, vegetables, salt, pepper and spices on high to just browning - done but still a bit crisp and remove from heat, set aside in a bowl.  (this is when you re-use the frying pan for crisping the bread)  Add these ‘everything else’ ingredients to the stockpot just five to ten minutes prior to finishing the soup.  Serve over the bread and cheese as with the original soup.  I have friends who still ask for MY French onion soup, but I know what they mean – everything else.

  

the other staff of life

CORN CHOWDER 

potato soup, with corn, and with seafood     

serves six to eight

Corn.  Ah, beautiful miraculous corn. 

In Europe, I couldn’t find it.  They used it only for animal fodder – boy, what a loss.  Finally I found it all alone on a shelf in a supermarket in the burbs of Paris in my boss’ neighborhood. There it was, a little can, with the moniker – Gèant Vert (Green Giant).  That was it, all I ever found.  My few American friends and I tried to enlighten our circle of French friends of the values of the ‘wonderful ear’.  We made converts one by one.  This soup really helped.  First, the base.

Potato soup.  Potato soup with corn.   Potato soup with corn and seafood.  That’s it in a nutshell.  This recipe tastes rich and delicious without cream -- in an effort to control animal fats, but hey, it’s always an option for you die-hards.  Corn carries the dish, and the richness and texture is held in that wonderful kernel. (But pork ain’t bad either.)

Tools:  big soup/stock pot (at least 6 quarts), non-stick frying pan and a lid or plate just slightly smaller, cutting board, chef’s knife, whisk

Base soup ingredients:

            OK, you know the drill by now, the basic backup:

      1     pkg 8-10 oz salt pork or fat back,
                  chilled to firm, trimmed of skin,
                  diced ¼ inch

      4     tbs olive or canola oil

           ¼     cup flour

1-2       medium onions, diced ½ inch
     (about a cup and a half)

2-3      stalks celery, halved and sliced
     ½ inch     (about a cup)

      2     cloves garlic, minced or crushed

    1½    pounds potatoes, red (new),
                 white (rose), and/or golden
                 Yukon, scrubbed, diced ¾ inch

      1     tbs thyme, dried (leave rough) or
                 rough chop double of fresh

      2     tsp oregano, dried (leave rough) or
                 rough chop double of fresh

            ¼    tsp cayenne or pepper flakes
                       (more if you like hotter, but
                       add later)

      1     tbs mustard powder

            ½    tsp each salt and pepper (to start,
                       final taste to be adjusted later)

      1     cup dry white wine or sherry

 3-4   pints (around a half-gallon) whole milk,
             2 % milk, or evaporated milk
             halved with stock or 2%     

      1    pint stock (chicken or vegetable, low sodium)

Potato soup preparation:  In the soup/stock pot, add 2 tbs of the oil to medium heat, then the potatoes, the salt and pepper and sauté, stirring occasionally to keep them from sticking.  Sauté to give the cubes a bit of color – a bit of ‘skin’ – and to somewhat tenderize them.  Sauté gently for about five minutes.  Add three pints of the milk, and all the stock and bring to a careful simmer, reducing it some (careful, because milk doesn’t boil well at all, in fact it will almost boil over just by staring at it.  DO NOT leave the cooking area until you have brought the milk just to the boiling heat, then reduce the heat and bubbles to a simmer! The potatoes and stock help control this).  Continue to gently simmer, stirring occasionally, for at least fifteen minutes -- reduce by about a fifth.

Meanwhile, in the frying pan, place the pork cubes and render some of the fat, then add the onions and a light sprinkle of salt and pepper.  Sauté the onions till tender, then add the celery, garlic, thyme, oregano, mustard and the cayenne to the vegetables and sauté gently all to golden and caramelized slightly, about ten to fifteen minutes.  The pork is salty, so adjust spices accordingly.  Firmly cover the vegetable mass with the lid and pour/strain off the fats into a bowl or mug.  Carefully slide/spoon out the vegetables from the non-stick pan into the milk and potatoes, and return 2 tbs of the fat to the pan.  In this remaining fat, add the other two tablespoons of oil.  Bring the combined fats to heat then add the flour, and stir/mash with a wooden spoon to make a roux.  Change to a whisk while adding the wine/sherry and work the roux paste for a minute or so.  Add the last of the milk, a bit at a time until it is very thick but no longer ‘pasty’.  You most likely won’t use the entire last pint of milk.  Transfer this mass to the stockpot and stir till blended well, mashing some of the potatoes, which will help thicken the soup as well.  Taste and adjust the seasonings.  

Do you like baked potatoes?  Try topping this tasty soup with bacon, sour cream and chives – maybe a little shredded cheddar and fresh cracked pepper.  Mmmmm.

Corn chowder preparation:  Fresh.  Fresh, fresh, fresh, fresh.  The fresher – the sweeter, and more flavor.  I remember as a kid, my parents, brother and I ended up driving through a cornfield on the way home from a Sunday drive and stopped to grab a few ears.  I’m sure that they left a dollar on the fence.  Ahem.  With that said, we’ve always remembered those ears being the sweetest corn we ever had.  Although the wise Solomon said in Proverbs ‘Stolen waters are sweet, and bread eaten in secret is pleasant.’ The memorable sweetness, I’m most sure, was due to the freshness.   I’ve sometimes wondered where that field was.  Ah the guilt. 

But I digress.  If you have a local fruit and vegetable stand, then go in season and buy for this.  Otherwise, frozen may be your best source.  ‘Fresh’ in the market depends on the length of time and distance between the field and the store, the Sundays and holidays between those dates, and the popularity/turn-over of the market you frequent.  If you have a good relationship with your grocer, then get the facts.  But the frozen offering is usually frozen within hours of harvest, offering the best ‘down time’ in your favor.  The sugars in the corn turn to starch rapidly, so time IS of the essence here.

All that is done for the corn chowder difference in this recipe is to add the removed sweet corn kernels and reheat.  Other than the act of opening thawed frozen packages (or cans if you must), the fresh ear is best, and best when carved into with care.  Easiest is to cut the ear in half lengthwise, and place the stable cut end on your cutting board and carefully cut down with the knife at an angle (as opposed to parallel with the cutting board).  This keeps the kernels from traveling far, and is safer with the length of the cut.  Remove all the kernels, then take the back of the knife and rub firmly downward against the cob to ‘squeegee’ out all the ‘milk’ from the bare cob.  This has a great amount of flavor, as well as the glutens that help thicken the soup. Cut four or five ears, squeegee the wet from the board with a knife or board scraper - and add all to the pot.  Adjust seasonings and bring just to a boil and remove from heat.   That’s it.  

The shucked corn may be gently roasted, turning every minute or so, on the top rack, three or four inches under the broiler (watch carefully) - or the cut kernels may be roasted in a single layer on a pan also under the broiler - until golden-brown with bits of dark, caramelizing to a wonderful flavor!  Corn is rich in natural sugars, and will burn VERY easily.  The kernels don’t need much cooking time, and this method is the best for preparing the corn for maximum flavor and keeping from scorching.

A great complement to corn would be the light and delicate flavor of fresh tarragon.  I’d lessen the thyme and oregano to ½ tbs each, and introduce one tablespoon of the fresh tarragon, freshly chopped fine, within five or ten minutes of completing the dish.  If using dried, third the amount (one teaspoon) and make that ten minutes prior to finishing.

Corn chowder with seafood preparation:  This is the easiest part of all.  Like the corn, most seafood needs very little time to cook.  With the corn, add the non-frozen seafood choice (as close to room temperature as safely possible) and it will cook as the soup is brought to that final boil as well.

Choices for this are bay scallops, sea scallops (usually diced a little bit smaller), lobster and crab (already cooked shelled and diced, but needing reheating), crayfish, clams, oysters, shrimps, mussels (all having been shelled, and simmered only at the very end of the soup preparation), diced monkfish, squid, octopus, or any hearty fish (cod, rockfish, mullet, flounder, sea/striped bass, snapper, flounder, grouper etc) that can be diced and withstand the rigors of being cooked in a soup ten minutes prior to finishing (added before that final boil).

The two pints or one quart of liquid other than dairy (vegetable or chicken stock) should certainly be replaced or combined with homemade shellfish stock, or the shellfish-boosting flavor of bottled ‘clam juice’ and/or the ‘liquor’ created in the steaming of fish or shellfish.  If choosing the bottled flavor route, please note on the container the salt or sodium amounts, and adjust your additional seasonings accordingly.   As described in the stock section of this book, if you have access to fresh shrimp/lobster/crayfish shells, a good shellfish base stock may be simmered along with bones, fins, tails and heads – FRESH! 

In preparing seafood chowder, the best fresh herb to complement the fish would be dill.  Lighten the introduction of thyme and oregano by half (if you choose, but not necessary) and add one if not two teaspoons of fresh chopped dill at the last five or ten minutes of the preparation (fresh or dried).

My favorite is scallops and shrimp.  But I have to say; there ain’t nothing better than homemade fresh clam or oyster chowder!

Toppers:  Bacon bits, croutons, minced chives, oyster crackers, diced avocado, diced tomato, sour cream, hot sauce

Options:  OK, ok, The creaminess can certainly be enhanced with more calories.  Just a quarter to half a cup of heavy cream in place of the same amount of milk and your taste buds will, in fact, be richly rewarded.   Plus, you can switch out or supplement the onions with the gentle richness of leeks, or the salt pork with prociutto or pancetta.  With such a fish dish, as in paella, it never hurts to have some of the rich back taste of saffron.  You can ‘bloom’ a few pinches of the rich saffron in a quarter cup of very hot stock for a few minutes and pour into the soup.  So nice.

Of course, chicken chunks, sliced sausages (pork – breakfast style, kielbasa, smoked or roasted turkey sausage, and/or andouille), shredded meats, or even meatballs would fare very well in the place of seafood, but truthfully, this ‘chowder’ works best with clean, light-flavored ingredients.

Play – have fun.  Eat!

If we can figure out the atom, then we can

certainly figure out this 'little cabbage'.

CREAM OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS SOUP

with spinach and mushrooms                  serves four to six

This unique little cabbage has gotten a bad rap.  Guilty by reason of its relatives, so most folks avoid it.  Because it can be overcooked and rendered mushy and sulpherous by incorrect cooking, we blame the little guy for unpleasant odors and taste.  Nope, we’re to blame.  The ‘mini cabbage’ is actually a delicious and nutritious contribution to good foods.   This soup came about one rainy Saturday, and I was going through what I had about the kitchen, not wanting to go out in the storm.  Now it has become a cozy-up friend on summer Tuesday nights too.

Tools: microwave (optional), food processor or blender or immersion blender if you have one, cutting board, small stockpot or medium sized saucepan, slotted spoon, whisk

Prep:  The strength of this recipe is the simplicity due to using frozen packaged vegetables.  Fresh vegetables can be used, but the flavor and aroma is not missed in this easier version.  Overcooking of any of the ingredients will be to the deficit of this recipe.  Chill the pork in the freezer for fifteen minutes to firm, then skin and dice.  Dice the fresh companion vegetables, and allow the frozen ones to either thaw in the refrigerator or defrost gently in the microwave at thirty percent power.  Do not cook; they were par-cooked perfectly prior to being frozen.

Ingredients: 

1     pkg 8 oz salt pork or fat back,
            skin trimmed, diced ¼ inch
            (optional if preferring a vegetarian soup)

1     tbs canola oil

1     tbs butter or heart healthy margarine

2     tbs flour

2     small onions, diced medium

            1     small carrot, grated

            1     clove garlic, minced 

            2     ribs celery, grated or diced

            1     lbs red (‘new’), or white (‘rose’)
                        potatoes unpeeled, washed
                        and diced ½ to ¾ inch (optional)

            1     pkg 10oz thawed Brussels sprouts,
                        halved 

            2     pkg 10 oz thawed chopped spinach,
                        all water squeezed out

          4-5    large button mushrooms, or the same
                        amount of other choice, sliced     

            1     tsp white or black sesame seeds

            1     tsp fresh chopped chives or green onions --
                       ¾ inch lengths        

          1½    pints to 1 quart (3-4 cups) warm milk
                       or halved this amount with stock/broth
                       (whole, two%, or canned evaporated, 
                       thinned equally with chicken stock)

            2     tbs sherry or chicken stock

           ¼     tsp nutmeg

           ¼     tsp cayenne

           ½     tsp thyme
            1     tsp margoram or chervil (as you prefer)

           ½     tsp each salt and fresh ground pepper

           

Preparation:   In saucepan, sauté the sliced mushrooms in the butter or margarine and bring to a good meaty finish. Lift/strain the mushrooms out and save warmed for garnish.  Heat the saucepan and add the salt pork.  Render slowly some of the fat till the bits are just beginning to golden, then raise the heat to high, and add the quartered sprouts.  Sauté on high, gently caramelizing the edges of the sprouts, and bring both to lightly browned – a couple of minutes max, remove with the spoon and set aside.  Add one tablespoon of canola oil in the pan.  Add the onions, carrots, celery, potatoes and garlic and sauté to limp and add the spices.  Continue sautéing till lightly caramelized richly golden, lay the thawed spinach on top and cover to warm, then remove everything from the fat with your slotted spoon.  Add the flour to the fat (add more oil if you need to) and stir well to integrate – work for at least thirty seconds.    Deglaze with sherry or stock, working the roux well, then thin bit-by-bit with the milk.  Bring the soup to the consistency of thick cream and stop adding the milk.

Now take the set-aside pork, sprouts, vegetables as well as the spinach, place them into the blender or processor and pulse till coarse like a pesto, allowing some ‘bite’ textures (the pork bits may be excluded from this and re-added after the blending, if you wish).  Replace this back to the simmering soup and stir well.  The option, if having an immersion blender is to put all together in the saucepan and blend in the pot.  Either way, the soup will now have a greenish tint, smell lovely, and you can stop cooking when it’s just beginning to simmer.  Adjust consistency if necessary with unused warmed milk, adjust seasonings.  Prepare to serve.

Top the plated soup with a dollop of sour cream or Greek yogurt, surrounded with the sliced mushrooms over the top of the soup.  Sprinkle black or white sesame seeds, a very light dusting of nutmeg, and half-inch long chives bits for texture, color and fresh flavor.  Hello Tuesday night.

OPTIONAL:  A simpler version of merely the sprouts and the spinach - with the 'trinity' flavor base, with finely diced carrots as well.  Sprouts and spinach may be frozen or fresh, and the fresh is, understandably, even better tasting!  For creaminess, about four ounces of heavy cream, cream cheese, soft (new or fresh) cheese, Greek yogurt or canned milk may be used to give the creamy 'mouth feel'.

Yes, there is a bit of an art

in making a great vegetable soup.

Stay sane!

GOOD OLD VEGETABLE SOUP 

and a whole lot more          

three to four quarts, serves six to twelve

Every grandmother has a perfect recipe for that hearty vegetable soup that has resuscitated countless children on sick leave from geography and arithmetic rigors because of a sore throat or fever.  Some recipe favorites are purely vegetable oriented, and some are meat and vegetable mix, with vegetables being the foremost ingredient.  Because of the huge variation of options, I’ll give you a broad ‘color spectrum’ selection, so to speak, to paint on your blank canvas as your favorite.  Not only is vegetable soup showcased here, but most major favorites.  These ingredients are superb health, anti-oxidant and anti-cancer elements, so get in the habit of using FRESH and often!

Tools:  cutting board, sauté pan, large stock/soup pot

Ingredients:

     Foundation/base flavors: 
           Base fats:  Butter, olive oil, heart-healthy margarine;
                 canola, vegetable or peanut oil; rendered pork fat,
                 and/or rendered goose/duck/chicken fat (schmaltz)
                 - 2 tbs to start
           Base vegetables:  Trinity:  Two parts onion, one part
                 celery, one part bell pepper.  Mirepoix:  Two parts
                 onion, one part celery, one part carrot - diced quarter
                 inch.  Plus minced garlic and ginger if chosen at this
                 stage.  In addition, celery root, parsnips, turnips, and/or
                 leeks - at least three cups.
           Base flavor meats:  anchovies (one to two fillets or
                 1 tsp paste); shellfish shells, bones (to be removed from
                 final liquid); pork (bacon, fat back, salt pork, side pork,
                 pancetta, green pork, hock etc); beef bits (hamburger,
                 organ meats, shredded cooked meat portions, roast or
                 braise - leftover meats); fowl (chicken/turkey/duck
                 leftovers, wings, thighs, neck, back - fattier meat portions)
                 - up to 1/4 pound.
           Base herbs/spices:  garlic; dried thyme, dill, parsley, salt,
                 pepper, bay - up to 2 tsp each.

     Stock/broth:  Historically the best is chicken (we do love that Jewish penicillin) or turkey.  The best  of that is homemade.  Store-bought always works, but make a habit of periodically making your own stock, and store safely.  Other proteins may be used, but consider the type and delicateness of that meat option and cook accordingly.  Let cool, lift out large bits (skinned chicken or other larger meat bits may be used in this or another recipe), strain out the remaining ingredients throught a mesh strainer or a colander lined with cheesecloth, press out any residual liquids and discard.  The fats should be removed and saved separately for future flavorings and fat bases.  The hard-earned gelatinous addition will be contained in the liquid.  For this soup recipe, you'll need at least two quarts. (See recipe at the end of this category.)

     Supplemental liquids to stock/broth:  Water, wine, champagne, beer/ales, mil/cream, buttermilk, sour cream/yogurts and other fermented dairy products, fruit/vegetable juice, coconut 'creams' and 'milks', effervescent waters, fruit and vegetable juices, liquid-dissolved fond, drippings from resting meats, more of the sameor different stocks/broths - up to half the stock/broth base amount or about 1 quart.

     Additional cooked-in focal herbs/spices/flavors:  Fresh, chopped:  thyme, dill weed, sage, saffron, parsley, marjoram, tarragon, herb seed (dill, celery, coriander, poppy etc), citrus zests, dried ground chili peppers, curry, roasted garlic, or dried version of the fresh.  Asian/Eastern prepared sauces (miso, Hoisin, oyster sauce, soy etc).  Worcestershire sauce, mustards, horseradishes, flavored vinegars, wine/champagne/rice/sherry vinegars, vermouth and other fortified wines, brandies, flavored vodkas - from 1 tbs to 1/4 cup.

     Soup meats and proteins:  Chicken/turkey/duck, beef/veal, fish, shellfish, lamb, prepared meats (sausages, pickled meats, kielbasas etc), unflavored gelatin, soy products (beans, sprouts, miso and tofu etc), nuts, eggs (added raw to cook in broth or diced/shredded hard boiled etc), vegetable protein in legumes (all kinds) and nuts/peanuts - about 3/4 - 1 pound, fully cooked, added depending.

     Soup vegetables:  Sauteed, roasted, braised or simmered from a raw state in the broth - are all options for presenting the vegetable portion of a soup.  Time available and ultimate flavor will dictate your choice.  Vegetable options:  onions, carrots and other root vegetables (celery root, turabagas, turnips, sweet potatoes etc), celery, potatoes, sweet corn, zucchini and summer squashes, butternut and winter squashes, eggplant, fennel, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, asparagus, artichoke hearts, peas, mushrooms, broccoli, spinach, cabbage (green, Napa, red, Savoy, bok choy), leeks, bean and seed sprouts, Brussels sprouts, string /green/haricot vert beans, cauliflower, soy beans, fresh basil/parsley/cilantro/celery tops, spinach, chard/kale, dandelion roots/greens, turnip greens, lima/fava/navy beans - about 4-6 cups, added early for very soft, or later for a more al dente bite - usually both ways.

     Thickeners:  Flours:  The common wheat, plus kudzu, tapioca, arrowroot, sweet potato and potato starch; other dried/ground roots such as salab (orchid tuber) and sorghum, nut butters; mustard and other ground spices; dried, ground chile peppers; dairy: yolks, evaporated milk, butter, yogurt, heavy/cultured creams, cheeses; also unflavored gelatin, file, okra, pectin, soft tofu and miso - about 2-4 tbs.

     Grains:  (also act as thickener)  Lentils, rice, brown rice, wild rice, barley, bulgur and cracked wheat, oats, oatmeal, tabouli, hominy, sliced fresh flour/corn tortillas, quinoa (pronounced keen-wa), farro, polenta, sorghum, garbanzos/chick peas, dried beans - about 1/4 cup uncooked amount, pre-cooked spearately, added to the soup ten mntes prior to serving to heat and finish cooking.

     Pastas:  (also act as thickener)  Pasta flours:  Whole wheat, wheat, buckwheat, rice, potato, semolina.  Small pasta bits work best, such options to consider are:  Star, alphabet, gnocchi, wagon wheel and other fun shaped noodle, orzo, spiral, flat/fettuccini, rigatoni, ziti, elbow etc - about 1/4-1/2 cup uncooked.  Par-cooked separately, added just before soup is done to finish cooking (do not over-cook pasta!), or fully cooked separately and placed in bowl just before serving.

     Final flavors/drizzels/toppers/floats:  Croutons/oyster crackers, diced avocado, crumbled bacon, hot sauce, Thai chili paste, relishes/chutneys/salsas, sesame oil, crushed nuts/crackers/chips, fresh fried tortilla strips, chopped green onions/peppers, fresh cracked/ground spices (the obvious such as pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon etc) and fresh herbs (basil, parsley, oregano, thyme, sage etc) but give dill, cilantro, allspice, ginger in moderate doses.  Lemon zest and juice, soy sauce, grated fresh or hard cheeses, dollop sour cream/creme fraiche/Greek yogurt, olive oil, vinegar, herb seeds, grated or diced hard-boiled eggs, fine balsamic vinegar, pitted chopped olives (green or black), pomegranate molasses and seeds, crushed peppercorns, shredded yung cheese/parmesan/dry aged cheeses, rasted seeds/nuts (pumpkin, sunflower, fennel, mustard, caraway, sesame, dill etc), almonds, peanuts, water chestnuts, pistachios, walnuts, pecans, hazelnuts etc).  Beaten raw egg added last in a drizzle and simmered to done.  Added at serving

Preparation:  Most recipes may be prepared in one cooking vessel.  This is usually with the option of stockpot, or a solid, heavy, even heat distribution base – or the foods cooked can burn, cook un-evenly or scorch over the time of cooking required.  The soup suggested here might be a quick cook (1/2 hour) with small introductions of ingredients to the soup; or an extended cook (2-3 hours) requiring several staged introductions of ingredients to the soup.  

The quick-cook is a three-stage operation, with initial foundation flavor elements first being brought to tender and incorporation of flavors by forced heat and caramelization.  Second the broth is introduced and brought to heat, while vegetables, legumes, herbs/spices, and prepared or non-tough meats are introduced till done.  Almost simultaneously, the third step is the grain, legume and pasta choices.

The more extended variety of preparation is only a few stages more, with extra time due to protein choice.  The initial introduction of fats and fat-initialized flavors are brought to heat, then the base vegetables plus first level aromatic flavorings.  The vegetables at this stage are cut/diced quite small, in fact, may be ground to a coarse ‘meal’, such as the food processor may provide.  These vegetables will be brought to caramelization early for flavor base, along with base herbs (best to use dried here) and spices.  The stock/broth is added at this point and simmered along with tough pre-browned meats or hard vegetables until prolonged moist heat renders tendons, connective tissue, cellulose and collagen to a tender stage.  The prolonged heating also renders the initial vegetables and base flavorings to almost dissolved, while encouraging reduction of the content and flavor of stock/broth and wines or other additional liquids.  After this level of patient simmering, a new addition of aromatics (garlic, ginger, peppers etc), vegetables (bite-sized dice), and fresh herbs may be added for a more complex flavor and texture.  Lastly, the legume/grain/pasta addition (most efficiently may be pre-cooked or par-cooked separately) is brought as a final flavor/texture finish.

As with a stock or broth, soups should never be subject to the sustained heat, the strong action and the oxidation that boiling inflicts.  Maintaining a gentle simmer (five to ten degrees cooler than boiling) is the foremost cooking method to protect gentle colors, flavors and textures.

The making of Stock and Broth

Stock/broth provide the backbone of any soup, and needs the most attention to detail and quality of ingredients.  Basically said - 'stock' is for all purposes is vegetable and bone based, while 'broth' is basically vegetable and flesh based.  

For a gallon of stock follow this basic guideline:  
First, to at least a six quart stock pot add easily a gallon of cool water (filtered/purified and de-chlorinated makes a huge difference, no heavy minerals or chlorine if possible, but do NOT use ‘distilled’ water). Low sodium store bought stock or broth may be used here to create a 'double broth' - rich in flavor and depth.  To the water in the pot, then add the bones and cartilage of your choice of fowl, fish, beef/veal or lamb after having been roasted, if possible, to a slight char (which are the best options for maximum flavor), and contribution to texture through the collagen and gelatin in the bones and cartilage.  For a simpler and more direct way of adding or supplementing this ‘texture’, a packet of gelatin bloomed in a small bit of cold water then dissolved into the stock at the last is a great idea.  If adding bones along with the meat choice(s), then simmer the bones first at least a half an hour,  

Next, in a saute pan, rough chop and lightly sauté in a tbs each of butter and olive oil – 2 large carrots, 3-4 stalks of celery, and 1-2 large onions – skin on for an amber broth, skin removed for a ‘clear’ broth), and apple or pear brings a light sweetness that is pleasant and not recognized as 'fruit' - till just attaining a bit of golden char.  Stir in 1 tsp each of salt (stay very low) and dry thyme; and half a tsp each of dry sage, pepper, oregano or marjoram, maybe some dill - and barely a pinch of clove and/or cinnamon for a very light shift of a lovely 'what is that?'; and 2 bay leaves - and saute till a lovely aroma rises.   

When heated and aromatic, add to pot and simmer this portion for half an hour, then add the flavoring meat bits.  That makes bones/cartilage first, then  vegetables next, then meats last, each at half-hour increments.  Cover and simmer the complete stockpot assemblage of ingredients – covered, stirring occasionally – for a good hour, up to two hours more.  As the liquid simmers, the meat and vegetable proteins will produce a ‘foam’ that rises to the surface.  This should be skimmed off regularly as the broth simmers.  NEVER boil the stock or broth, but bring just to a boil and reduce to a very gentle simmer.  This maintains a clear liquid, and keeps from churning out existing proteins, collagen and starches that will cloud the broth.  Strain well; discard vegetables and small meat bits, but the larger meat chunks may certainly be re-used soon in another ‘wet’ dish.  Refrigerate the liquid, and the fats will float to the surface and congeal.  Separating and saving these fats could be the smartest thing you could culinarily do.  The finished liquid may be gently further reduced with careful patience to a thicker ‘glaze’ (called demi-glace) mass for easier storage, but consider the re-liquidation according to the final dish desired.

Shellfish/fish stock:  Simmer in lightly salted water the aromatics, vegetables (garlic, carrots, onions/leeks and celery, herbs and flavorings) along with shells and any other solid fish/shellfish outer parts (fins, shells, skin, tails) first for at least a good hour, but the delicate ‘meat’ and soft tissue (heads, meaty bones, flesh – but no organs from cleaning of the creature) added last, until everything has given all it can give, no more than another half hour.  Strain well.

Broth/stock storage:  These bases may be strained, cooled, and put into ice cube trays and frozen into portion-sized chunks.  Yes, a zip-lock bag (double layer) is ideal for this cubed freezer storage.  Perfect uses for this broth/stock creation is any sauce or soup and chowder in this book.  Very wise recycling.

POPULAR HOT SOUPS

Chicken noodle – Butter/olive oil base (and chicken fat if available); salt pork flavor base; mirepoix; garlic, thyme, bay, tarragon, salt/pepper; pinch of lemon zest; bite-sized celery, carrots and peas; chicken broth; chicken chunks and bits; a flat and shorter length noodle (homemade is best, flat: pappardelle, egg noodles/fettuccini, etc – or shaped:  orecciette/ear, shell, rigatoni etc) works easiest with fitting in the spoon. 

Turkey barley – Canola oil/turkey fat and/or butter base; salt pork flavor base; mirepoix; garlic, thyme, bay, sage, salt/pepper; bite-sized celery, onions, carrots, potatoes, peas; pure water then turkey carcass simmered into soup whole, then picked clean along with other turkey bits to create stock and meat bits; barley grains; flour and/or gelatin thickener; splash of white wine/sherry; parsley at the end; croutons or crackers toppers.

Minestrone – Olive oil/butter base (and chicken fat if available); bacon/sausage flavor base; trinity; garlic, thyme, bay, sage, oregano, salt/pepper; bite-sized celery, onions, carrots, zucchini, corn, chopped spinach/cabbage/bok choy, peas, tomatoes, green beans; chicken and/or beef broth; a couple of glugs red wine; pasta (orecciette/ear, shell, alphabet, elbow, wagon wheel); beans (garbanzo, kidney, fava, white); finish with fresh basil, green onion, parsley, splash red wine vinegar, rustic bread croutons, grated parmesan.

Chicken tortilla – olive oil/butter base; pork/chicken fat flavor base; mirepoix; garlic, thyme, bay, oregano, salt/pepper, chili powder; roasted diced chile peppers (poblano, pasilla, banana, Cubanelle, Anaheim, jalapeño); roasted or toasted bite-sized carrots, onions, celery, fresh corn, diced tomatoes; chicken broth; hominy, chicken shreds/chunks; finish with fresh fried tortilla strips, diced avocado, fresh cilantro, green onions, grated Monterrey jack, crumbled Cotija, pomegranate seeds.

Mushroom – olive oil/butter base; roux thickener; salt pork/bacon bits flavor base; mirepoix; a couple glugs dry white wine or sherry; garlic, parsley, thyme, marjoram, tarragon, pinch nutmeg and tsp dill, salt/pepper; oyster sauce, Worcestershire sauce; vegetable and/or chicken stock; small diced shallots, celery, carrots; lots of sliced mushrooms (button, ‘wild’ types, reconstituted dried porcini and/or shiitake etc); canned evaporated milk, cream; cooked rice or wild rice (optional); finish with squeeze of lemon juice, dollop of sour cream and minced chives.  

Split pea – olive oil/butter base; salt pork bits/bacon and ham hock flavor base; mirepoix; garlic, salt/pepper, oregano, thyme, pinch cayenne; split peas; chicken or vegetable stock (simmer at least one hour up to two.  Shred hock); small diced onions, celery, carrots, and frozen/thawed green peas; splash cream; finish with dollop sour cream and ham/pork bits.   Blend portion in processor or immersion blender slightly if desired.

Crab and asparagus – vegetable/canola oil base; rice flour or potato flour thickener; mirepoix; garlic, thyme, tarragon, pinch each cayenne and saffron, pinch lemon zest, salt/pepper; splash white wine or sherry; diced tender asparagus stalks (save tender asparagus tips for final add on the top); vegetable and/or fish/shellfish stock  – blend/purée these simmered tender vegetable ingredients and broth till smooth or leave rustic unblended; add crab chunks; asparagus tips; finish with lemon squeeze and/or splash rice vinegar and minced fresh dill.

Bean – bacon fat/olive oil/butter base; ham hock, bacon and/or salt pork flavor base; mirepoix; garlic, rosemary, thyme, pinch cayenne; small diced onion, celery, carrots; tomatoes (canned is best); vegetable, beef and/or chicken stock; prepared package ‘15 bean’ mix, as directed, canned assorted beans drained and rinsed – or see bean preparation in this book – simmer at least one hour, best if two if using prepared dried beans; finish with dollop sour cream and generous tablespoonful of Salsa Sorpresa in this book (or at least chopped fresh cilantro). 

Egg drop (or Egg flower) soup – peanut or canola oil base; chicken/duck fat flavor base; corn starch thickener; green onions/scallions, diced soft tofu; pinch each of ginger, pepper flakes and sugar; chicken stock/broth, splash fish sauce and sherry; finish with beaten eggs drizzled into gently simmering, swirling soup, let set untouched a minute or two, then gently stir, serve immediately.  Top with chives, very light drizzle of sesame oil.  Options:  green peas, water chestnuts, chicken bits, cilantro or parsley leaves, spoonful white/gold/red miso well blended, soy sauce, baby spinach leaves.



Soup and Sandwich started here

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP         
serves four to six

Tomato is the most popular U.S. soup of all time, according to Campbell’s, followed by cream of mushroom.  It is the soup I grew up with – heck, we all grew up with.  It is assuredly the designated partner to grilled cheese sandwiches, and has been a favorite with every kid I knew.  But if you wish to get past the can (which has certainly proven to taste just great), the fresh homemade version is even more satisfying and belly-warmingly wonderful . . . and so very worth the time.  Ages ago, a friend who was a terrific cook showed me that with fresh soups, a dollop of fresh roasted garlic-infused butter stirred into a soup at the end brought a huge amount of richness and flavor.   So be it here.

Tools:  sauté pan, saucepan, cutting board, food processor, mixing bowl

Ingredients
           ¼    pound well-chilled bacon/salt pork/fat
                       back, skinned, diced in ½ inch pieces

2     tbs olive oil

½    tsp each salt and pepper

1     medium sized onion diced small
                      (about ¼-½ cup),

2     medium carrots, diced small or
                      grated on large hole

2     ribs celery, diced small

2     cloves garlic, minced

½    tsp dry thyme or 1 tsp fresh

2     tbs butter

2     tbs flour

          2-3    tbs tomato paste

1     tbs Worcestershire sauce

several dashes hot sauce (to taste)
            2     cups (1 pint) chicken broth or stock, low sodium

2     cups milk – whole, canned milk with broth
                       or 2% milk -- warmed

          2-3    lbs (six or eight) large, red ripe roma style
                       tomatoes; roasted or lightly sauteed
                       (peeled if desired), diced into ½ inch to
                       ¾ inch chunks (or quality canned Italian
                       or roasted, drained, diced), to make about
                       1½ cups

          ½    cup heavy cream – warmed
           2     slices quality hearty bread (crust removal is up
                       to you), broken into bite-sized pieces –
                       either fresh, lightly stale, lightly toasted,

           grilled in butter till golden, or baked in
                       low oven till lightly crisp

         1-2    tbs fresh basil, fine-diced or chiffonade cut -
                       reserve a third for garnish  

  roasted garlic butter

 
Preparation:  In medium hot pan, bring pork pieces to rending of fat, and just beginning to brown.  Add olive oil and diced vegetables, salt and pepper, herbs and garlic, raise heat, and sauté gently.  Add the tomato paste and caramelize slightly, stirring often.  Move bits to side and add the butter, then flour, working the roux to smooth as possible.  Add the broth, a bit at a time, whisking or stirring to smooth at each addition, finally add the Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce. 

Simmer gently for several minutes; reducing somewhat and working the roux till creamy.  At this point, the mix may be added to the food processor with some of the milk (or use an immersion blender wand), if desired, and brought to completely smooth and returned to the saucepan, or left in the original rustic texture in the saucepan.  Fold in the tomato chunks and the rest of the milk and stir very gently to mix and bring to heat and again simmer gently for about five minutes tops.  The soup may be ‘held’ at this point, just at slight heat until ready to serve.  Just prior to serving, fold in bread (or it could have been added at time of processing, if desired), basil and cream and blend well, adjust seasonings (both the canned tomatoes and prepared broth/stock have included salt, so consider this in your adjustment additions).   Pour into serving bowls and float a bit of garlic butter in the soup with a sprinkle of fresh basil and tomato bits if desired.

Garlic butter:  sauté in a small fry or sauce pan, 10-15 cloves of peeled garlic in 2 tbs olive oil very gently for 20-30 minutes – or roast a full bulb or two of garlic cut in half equator-wise, drizzled in olive oil and wrapped in foil, in 400° oven for a good forty minutes.  Allow to cool to room temperature.  Squeeze garlic from bulb, or spoon from pan and mash with fork along with ½ tsp salt (pepper or pepper flakes too) in mixing bowl.  Fold into 1-2 cubes (as you prefer the concentration of garlic) room temperature (60-65°) butter, blend well, and re-shape to a butter cube-sized cylinder in a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap, seal well, and chill to firm.  When serving, slice portions from cylinder and allow to warm a bit toward a cool room temperature, float on hot soup.

           

Options:  For a boost in flavor, the rough diced aromatic vegetables may be roasted to a slight char in a hot (400°+) oven, while covered in the oil and salt and pepper (about 20-30 minutes), instead of as a sauté.  The fresh tomatoes should be included, but the canned shouldn’t be roasted – but may be purchased canned in a roasted flavor format.   Lemon juice, regular/balsamic vinegar, or extra virgin olive oil can be just barely drizzled in at the last for a bit of ‘fresh’. 

Optional option:  In my town, there's an Indian cuisine buffet, which has all the wonderful expectations of Curries, tandori chicken, saffron rice - but the big surprise was a tomato soup with coconut (!) - I tried it, and ended up refilling three times!  To give this great traditional soup a wonderful twist toward the East, in the last of the directions – where the ‘last of the milk’ is added, join in 1 can of coconut milk instead.  You’ll love how it makes you smile!