Every cookbook, chef, family cook, TV cooking show host, or cooking instructor has a base standard of elements used in their cooking repertoire. So here are mine, for you to acquaint yourself with – to ensure we’re both on the same page when executing these recipes. Thanks to televised cable programming that has entire stations devoted solely to cooking and food preparation – which has raised universal kitchen interest – we now have an enormous ingredient offering for the general public out there, that at one time was on a specialized and hard-to-find list. Many cities now have upgrade ‘world market’ supermarkets, where imported products and produce are offered as a regular find. Shipping and storage technology brings us seasonal foods all year round from all points on the globe.
The primary decision of what to use, of course, is yours, and stick to what makes you comfortable and grounded in your preparation and cooking environment. All these recipes are meant to ultimately be from your hands and heart.
BROTH AND STOCK – Broths are created by gently simmering meats and/or vegetables and herbs/spices slowly in water with options of added wine/liquor, bottled sauces, juices or vinegars. The liquid is more often strained from the mix, but not necessarily. The extraction of contributing flavors imparted to the liquid is the intent.
Stocks are created similarly, but include the addition of roasted, fried, raw or baked bones and their marrow, cartilages and/or skins. The gelatin and collagen found in these additional ingredients bring a richer mouth feel and consistency to the liquid when exposed to moderate moist heat over a patiently lengthy period of time; while the marrow provides flavor, nutrition and texture. The ‘meat’ may or may not be included. Shells, appendages, fins, bones and heads in the fish/shellfish world likewise contribute enormous flavor and texture in marine or fish stocks.
I’d then think that by definition, it’s not possible to create a ‘vegetable stock’, only a ‘vegetable broth’.
The cooled broth/stock can be stored short term in refrigeration, or frozen for long term in ice cube trays (place the trays in plastic bags to keep out unwanted smells from the freezer), then transfer the cubes to zip bags.
My preference is homemade (see ‘homemade stocks/broths’ section in this book), but the ‘boxed’ offering of low-sodium broth/stocks out there is great, more so than canned varieties in my opinion. Always read the label for ingredients, sodiums, additives and preservatives – and make an educated decision for your choice.
BUTTER – salted vs unsalted Butter is a dairy product, and is subject to the same delicate care as cream, milk and eggs. Butter requires careful consideration in exposure to time, heat, variations in temperatures, other aromas and smells, and light and air exposure. Fresh ‘sweet’ unsalted butter is not given any preservative or chemical enhancement other than a minor addition of salt as a flavoring in the production process. The ‘sweet’ term only refers to the flavor in opposition to the salted butter option; no sugars have been added. In its freshest (and most delicate) form, it has the best taste, consistency and overall flavor, and therefore is the optimum choice for cooking where butter flavor is primary – such as cookies/pastries, sautéing delicate meats and (shell)fishes, toppings, dips/drawn, clarified and spreads.
Always check the date on the carton and the packaging stability (undisturbed, secured opaque wrapping); but likewise, use care to observe market display techniques as well. Dairy cases that are open on one side (bookshelf style) potentially offer compromised temperatures (choose samples from the rear) – cases with doors are better. The best and most stable presentation is where cases open or access at the top – like a chest – better consistently containing the heavier cold air.
Butter purchased in quantity -- and being more than what can be used in a week – may be frozen (and thawed in the refrigerator) until needed to prolong the freshness.
Salted butter has a better ‘shelf-life’, due to the much higher portion of salt as a preservative, but has a lesser ‘fresh’ taste. It is the best choice where handling/freshness/exposure is in question, such as a remote general store or casually overseen gas station/mart. When using salted butter, lessen other salt additions, and always taste before adjusting seasonings. This book uses unsalted ‘sweet’ butter as its default choice.
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Rare Earth
Elements |
CHOCOLATE – the food of the gods (literally, as translated) I can wax poetic, praise its myriad of flavors
dreamily until another century comes along, but I’ll reluctantly keep to the main facts if I can – if it’s possible. Whether presented as milk, sweet, semi-sweet, bitter-sweet, dark, liquored, spiced, fruited – chocolate is an element that should have its own place on the periodic table. And foremost, wisdom is to know a bit of its care and handling: Chocolate structure, potency, texture and flavor are very delicate – and heat/cold, air contact, other flavors, and water can drastically affect the quality. A bag of chocolate chips is one thing, but a fifteen to fifty dollar a pound fine chocolate is another. Know what you want the chocolate for, what dish you wish to make and which chocolate would be best for the final taste.
Chocolate storage should not include moisture, air, heat/warmth or damp cold. Well-sealed, airless containers are best (although zip lock, plastic wrap or cellophane alone seem right, you also don’t want the chocolate in direct contact with the plastic, as condensation may occur). Wrap in porous or waxy paper, then store in the zip lock bag (or multiple layers of bags) or other sealable container – and cool (not ice-cold), dark locales fare surest. Do not buy chocolate to store long-term, and use careful transport (hot cars, bags set in sunlight, etc).
Melting chocolate in a double boiler is the safest method in altering chocolate to a liquid state for blending or shaping. However, make sure the mixing bowl does not touch the water beneath (the temperature of the air and steam between is not as severe as the temperature of the boiling water). When removing the bowl to pour out the chocolate, dry the condensation from the bottom of the melting bowl (by setting on a kitchen towel) before pouring, or you’ll have water dripping into the new mix. Water, especially hot water, is not good for chocolate texture. Microwaves are a good choice for melting as well, but scorching the chocolate can occur if not careful, so always set at least on half (50%) power or even at ‘defrost’ (30%) power, and no more than a minute or better yet, half a minute at a time, stir, then another half-minute re-heat.
In the cooking of chocolate, such as with cakes, puddings, cookies etc., the longer that chocolate is subject to heat, the more the complex flavor will be compromised/reduced. Baking at high heats is risky, and a good rule of thumb is to stay with a 325° to 350° F oven for baking most chocolate-based dishes, cakes, cookies, pies etc. Cooking a delicate cake to ‘done’, then testing with a straw emerging ‘dry’ can be more of a risk than one thinks. The cake may have been to the ‘done’ stage five or even ten minutes before it was tested, and that sliver of time may have reduced the chocolate richness noticeably. A further down-side of this testing is that repeatedly opening the oven door to test (and finding that the cake/brownie/pie is not done), will alter the original temperature in the oven in continuing the baking process – and as a result, alter the final time for doneness and moistness – so you still haven’t an accurate final time for future reference. Know your oven and temperatures -- as elements such as cake pan size, depth of batter, ingredients (particle size and/or moisture) added to original batter, amount of butter/oil used in the recipe, and the quality of the chocolate -- all affect the success of the timing and temperature.
Remote temperature sensors are an electronic best friend, and make a great option with delicate-flavor baked goods such as this. Carefully bringing the baked item just to temperature (usually 200°F – a ‘simmering’ temperature more than a ‘boiling’ temperature, once again) is the optimum method in dealing with chocolate in a cake. Cakes and custards continue to cook/rise in temperature slightly after removal from the oven, so the notion of ‘done’ is consequently a variable one.
For this book, although the chocolate used is the focus of the recipes where it is required, a high quality, imported fine chocolate would be overly zealous on any of the recipes given – so a good quality, stable, mid-range supermarket variety is very fine for the recipes here. Choose ‘bars’ over ‘chips’ if at all possible, as chips have a stabilizing additive to compensate for the greater exposed surfaces – you don’t really want that.
CORN – canned, frozen, fresh I continue to be amazed at the absolute deliciousness of sweet corn (not feed corn, which most the world thinks of). The substantial offering of sweet and texture for human consumption seems to be relegated to fewer societies than I’d known, but it’s changing.
The fresher to the table from the harvest, the sweeter it is to the taste. The sugars convert to starches much too rapidly, so time is the key. What you may think as fresh on the market display may have been harvested a week or two ago, but the frozen offering is usually frozen within hours of being harvested. Canned is likewise packaged rapidly, but may also contain a notable rise in salts. Know your grocer and the market shipping protocol (distance to farmer source, warehousing, timing and holiday/weekend delivery priorities, rotation of produce on shelf, etc), know your brands, and check cans/packages for sodiums, preservatives and additives.
Should you live near a produce stand that offers freshly harvested, non-pesticide goods, kiss them.
EGGS – brown vs white There is a conflict of thought as to an alleged difference between white eggs and brown (or any other natural color). All the research I could find shows in fact no qualitative, variable nutritional value or taste difference between them, and that they are only a reflection of the color/breed of the hen that had laid them. This book will use extra large (any color) as the default egg choice.
When purchasing eggs – as with butter, cream and milk – always be sure to check the individual shell and packaging integrity, refrigeration stability and date.
FLOUR – wheat types: bread, self-rising, all-purpose (AP), cake, instant (Wondra®) The basic difference between each of these listed flours is the content of protein in the form of gluten. The higher the gluten, the more elasticity produced when activated or ‘worked’. This often results in a firm dough -- understandably referred to as ‘tough’ if not softened by the use of leaveners (baking soda/powder) and/or yeast to expand between the flexible worked fibers with their zillions of microscopic pockets of emitted gases.
Bread flour is the highest in protein and gluten, and is the best option for a good hearty bread product and that’s about it . . . for bread (and bread goods). Whereas cake flour is very low in protein and gluten, yielding a gentle dough, usually more of a ‘batter’, excellent for the required soft cake texture, or muffins and cookies. All-purpose is a blend of the two, and covers the myriad of dishes that call for ‘flour’ non-specifically.
Self-rising flour is basically all-purpose flour with non-yeast leavening already added, such as baking powder and baking soda. Baking powders and sodas react to heat and/or acids in the recipe to create carbon dioxide gas, which lifts or infiltrates the dough/batter with microscopic pockets of air to soften and/or cause rise.
Instant flour (usually found in the US as Wondra® flour) is the lowest protein/gluten flour option. Its wheat content has been pre-gelatinized and malted barley flour (no gluten) has been added – all to ensure quick, smooth dissolving into liquids without the use of fats, and easy absorption of moisture for quick doughs and crusts. The low gluten content makes it ideal for fry coatings, piecrusts and cookies.
For the uses in this book, the flour default choice will be all-purpose (AP) wheat flour, unless otherwise stated.
FLOUR (STARCH) THICKENERS – wheat, potato, corn, rice, tapioca, kudzu, arrowroot Each starch has different reactions to moisture and heat. Some thicken well with water-based broths and stocks, while some do better with dairy liquids, and finally some work best with acids (vinegars, sweet and savory produce – tomatoes and fruits etc, juices and wines). Some require a fat envelopment before liquid contact, some only liquid contact. Some thicken clear, some milky. Some do a great mouth feel, but when re-heated as a ‘left-over’ do not maintain the same thickened ‘feel’ well. Your ultimate dish choice, presentation and location of dining (travel time) will dictate which starch thickener to use.
Know your starches. One might think it’s best to boil the starch at length to encourage a good thickening, but most any of these starches will break down at the continued heat that boiling provides (212° and up). Simmer (185-205°) is the word, bring just to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Educate yourself on starches, especially those you choose to use (see ‘Pour it On’ in this book).
Cornstarch and rice flour added to wheat flour in coatings (fried chicken; chicken fried steak; fried fish; beef, pork, veal and chicken scaloppinis; and paillards etc; and dishes of fried bite-sized bits coated in sauces) is a great enhancement to a crisp and light crust. Cornstarch added to wheat flours in yeast doughs however, creates the reverse -- a wonderfully soft and ‘gentle’ dough texture (dinner rolls, cinnamon rolls, biscuits etc).
I don’t recommend experimentally trying a thickener choice that you ‘think’ may be a best option with an important dish and event. A little experimentation is great, but make sure it’s done in consideration with some research on the internet/encyclopedia/library – which is the best practice, but in careful events and ingredients. Ninety-nine percent of the time I use wheat flour and cornstarch for my thickeners – flour for dairy and broth/stock based choices in an opaque presentation, and corn starch for fruit/acid based in a clear presentation.
HAMBURGER – vs shredded, cross-cut, braised, BBQ’ed, roasted meats Hamburger is a ready-tenderized meat choice, a quick-cook ‘protein’ on the food chart, and an economical presentation for families on a budget. I grew up in the sixties, and virtually everything for most meals seemed to be made of hamburger. That’s when such ideas as ‘skillet dinners’ and ‘helpers’ came to being, and the country had a love affair with hamburger. We let it become a habit, and forgot how to prepare meats in a more imaginative and texturally pleasant form. Ground meat as a patty, loaf, or meatball is not at issue here. But ground meat as an ingredient is at question in my opinion. Dishes we’ve been used to creating using hamburger that has been cooked, worked and separated to a granular presentation no longer seems to continue being a meat but merely a component that satisfies at the lowest level. Spaghetti sauces, chili con carne, soups and casseroles should get to know meat in a better format, and I propose trying another perspective with your meat choice (turkey, chicken, pork and veal are also ground and offered in a ‘burger’ presentation) in such dishes. I’m not going against flavor, as that continues to be present in the dish to an ‘OK’ degree, but I’m going FOR texture, which is one of the biggest reasons why we love meat in the first place.
Hamburger has become the ‘mystery’ meat of our purchasing efforts, when it is not actually certain what is contained in the meat and fat mix. Sometimes a busy butcher department will contribute scraps of quality cuts to the ground burger mix and you have better meat ingredients than you thought involved in your purchase – and sometimes not – it’s basically ‘butcher’s choice’. The fat content is also on a sliding scale. Sometimes you can cook it out, and sometimes not. Never use more than ‘80/20’ meat-to-fat ratio, and then only if you can drain the fat out of the preparation at some point. For burgers, use no more than ’85/15’ ratio, as the fat moisturizes the patty in the cooking process, and a good deal of the excess fat is separated in the fry, broil or roast. Any dish that has ground meat included as an ingredient to boil, roast or braise, and retaining the involved fats in the dish, then only use ‘90/10’ ratio or less. But that’s still a lot of fat.
But I propose an option. Skirt/flank/hanger steaks, brisket, chuck and other roasts (and the same less expensive cuts in pork) may be chosen – marinated if desired – and fried, grilled or broiled to a charred outer and red/pink inner (red with beef, pink with pork – they’ll finish cooking when added to the hot dish). Thinly cut the rested meat on the bias against the grain, and roughly dice the strips to bite-sized portions. This presentation is much more pleasant for bite, chew and taste than ground texture in my opinion, and the cost parallel is a non-issue, for those on a watched budget. The preparation may be a tiny bit more careful; but preparing a week’s worth of this style meat (and not cutting up) in advance at one time, wrapping and chilling well, then cutting and adding at the last to warm in the dish as it is desired, becomes very simple to perform and a better habit – both for flavor and for control of what’s going into what you eat.
HERBS AND SPICES – fresh vs dried, pre-ground vs whole original form Fresh herbs and spices provide the maximum accurate flavor and aroma. However, the dried options have their good points as well; and maintaining their freshness is a valuable and practical habit. Heat, air and light are the enemies to the potency of these flavorings – so maintaining cool, well-sealed containment, and dark storage is the best idea.
Purchase dried herbs and spices in their largest original form if possible, and grate/chop/crack at the time of use. Some herbs are well suited for drying (the waxy stem/leaf, strong flavored variety), and their flavor isn’t mitigated substantially by moisture/volatile oil evaporation – such as oregano, thyme, rosemary, bay, sage, etc. Delicate grass-like herbs such as coriander/cilantro, parsley, basil, peppermint/mint, chives, etc lose substantial flavor and ‘freshness’ when dried. Strong flavored spices (peppers, curries, mustards, coriander, nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon, cloves etc.) maintain their distinct flavor when dried, yet in a lesser potency if pre-ground.
Fresh herbs should be added to a recipe toward the end of the cooking to avoid over-processing, while dried herbs should be added with moist heat more toward the beginning (to maximize extraction of flavor/volatile oils over the time of preparation) for flavor and for re-hydration of the dried herb texture. Depending on the type of herb/spice, maximum flavors may be extracted with oil, acid or water-based contact. Spices work well with heat (dry or oil based). Since careful heating extracts the flavor best, even cold presentation foods fare best when some spices are added after being fried or roasted (even caramelized). For a full rounding of flavor, I usually use both dried and fresh if I have them; dried introduced at the beginning, and fresh at the end for a more complex blend of seasoning – even the same herb is made more faceted in its flavor when submitted both times in this way (especially thyme, basil, rosemary and sage). Try your favorite seasonings in both application facets.
It can be troubling to grind whole peppercorns, cinnamon bark, seeds or nutmeg as a flavor addition – or to stem and chop fresh herbs. Using prepared herbs and spices isn’t the end of the world for any dish, but there will be less distinct flavor in that choice – however, the end result will be perfectly fine. I don’t think any less of someone for using pre-ground spices; but remember – any open-container ground spices/herbs should be rotated out after six months or so. At least keep them as fresh from the open container as possible.
A basic staple of dried spices and herbs to keep available could be listed as oregano, thyme, garlic powder/salt, rosemary, ginger powder, bay leaves, chile powder, cumin, mustard powder, cayenne, paprika, cinnamon, nutmeg (whole, grated), sage and dill. A more gourmet-ish ‘second string’ selection would be coriander, marjoram, allspice, cloves, cardamom, herbs de Province, saffron, anise, tarragon, and tumeric. Store cool, as in refrigerator or freezer to keep fresh and also to deter ‘pests’ from having a taste.
Most grocers stock in the refrigerated produce section packaged fresh-cut herbs. For an important dish, fresh is most always a best choice. Plus, even better – for very little work and expense – it’s not difficult to create a great windowsill herb garden in various small-sized pots and containers. Basil grows like a weed; and rosemary, sage, cilantro, thyme, chives, parsley and mint hold up real well, with good sun and not much water. And it’s lovely to boot. The web is full of directions, and even kits. When referring to salt and pepper in this book, table salt and fresh-cracked black pepper is my default request (see ‘salt’ in this section). For this book, most recipes are using dried herbs, unless stated also to use fresh.
JUICES – lime juice, lemon juice (and citrus juices) I hear most cooking shows and books calling for fresh-squeezed lime and lemon juices as an imperative. Fresh juices are usually the best option, especially when being the focus of the dish. But I’ve often used the bottled offering – and once again, it is just fine, and better than no citrus at all, and still gives the fresh tart and citrus taste. If the dish is to be cooked, or citrus is one of many ingredients – with citrus being in the mix and not the ‘star’ – then there is really no difference. I think by now, most of us know ingredient priorities when cooking. Likewise, with orange/tangerine and grapefruit juices.
A good ‘squeezer’ for limes and lemons is the hinged half-cup stylization where the fruit half is inserted reverse of the cup and the hinged cup top is squeezed into the bottom cup. This effectively removes virtually all the juice (and contains the seeds) and saves the wrist, nails and fingers from over-exertion. For oranges and the larger citrus fruits, this kind is less ‘easy’ due to the larger size (or you can hand squeeze, then put the flattened half in the hinge squeezer). A complex lever masher/squeezer works well, or a power or hand reamer or extractor. Reamers and hand squeezing are quicker and less tools to clean, so you can make your choice.
MAYONNAISE – store bought vs homemade When I lived in Paris I made my own mayonnaise every day. I used a clunky rotary crank beater in a little glass bowl, and made the best mayonnaise than could ever be ‘store bought’. With that said, my life nowadays is a bit more complicated with spare time priorities, and I have let the purchasing power of a quality, good, established brand suit my needs – and I have to say I’m OK with that.
The trade-off is that the commercial mayonnaises are in control of the ‘raw egg’ issue, and offer a condiment that is not a risk for reasonable exposure outside the forty-degree chill level – meaning a better picnic option for salads and sandwiches. Homemade mayonnaises should never be used in such exposures (Greek yogurt, clotted creams etc may be considered), though homemade is a perfect delicious option when used with temperature safety, timely use and expedited consumption.
MILK – cow’s milk: whole, 1%, 2%, fat free, canned evaporated, powdered Some cooking perspectives advocate that nothing beats whole milk for cooking use. I’ve been using 2% as my ‘default’ choice for years and don’t have a problem with it at all (as it is what I normally have in my refrigerator). However, I find 1% and fat free just a bit too lean for most cooking uses, but will be better than nothing in a pinch (add a bit more butter to the recipe to compensate for the lack of fats in the lower-fat milks). The overall flavor of whole milk is the best option for taste, fat content, richness and chemical reaction when used with acids and sugars, so make the decision based on what you like, how your family reacts to milk lactose, sugars and fats, and what you find most convenient.
My mom was a religious user of canned milk (NOT condensed, which is sugar infused), also referred to as evaporated. It wonderfully suits gravies; eggs/custards; French toast; milk-based sauces, batters and coatings; mashed potatoes and creamed vegetables/meats – while having an almost non-existent health-favorable amount of fat, with the rich texture compensating to that end.
Powdered milk was used enormously in France for recipes that need the extra protein but not the fat such as homemade cheeses, yogurts, sauces, and soured cream/milk products (in addition to the liquid milk or cream used). Add powdered milk to batter, cake and muffin recipes along with the recipe liquid milk and/or buttermilk for added richness and body. It’s great for thickening/enriching diary-based dishes that are non-cooked as well.
Sure, whole milk is wonderful; but for the rest of the world who is watching their animal fat intake, other options are great to have.
NUTS, SEEDS AND GRAINS – fresh, dried, unsalted, organic – and frozen, freeze dried (soy,
peanuts etc) Nuts (seeds, legumes) are a great source of protein, vitamins, antioxidants and minerals. We most often consume them from a packaged presentation, which is often categorized by salted, unsalted, roasted, dry-roasted, raw and frozen; also as organic in any of the aforementioned presentations. Commercial ‘roasted’ is a misnomer in that they are actually deep-fried in oils. Look for dry roasted, and as always, read the label for oil saturations and salts used in the production process. ‘Salted’ usually utilizes a generous amount of sodiums. Therefore, the best options I’d recommend are organic, unsalted – then pan or oven roast (and oiled and salted) personally, for each use.
Storage of dried nuts is best in a well-sealed container in a cool dark location. Refrigeration (ongoing mid-time range) or freezing (extended time range) will extend the life, as the oils present in the nut/seed could go rancid if exposed to air and warmth for not very long.
OLIVE OIL – extra virgin, virgin, and general pure olive oil The extraction of olive oil from the olive fruit is performed usually in three fashions. The first, extra-virgin (cold press) is the removal of oil from the fruit/seed by physical pressing only. The flavor is approaching sweet, aromatic; with the texture thick and viscous, and a direct reflection of the olive used in the production of the oil. The second, virgin, (hot press) removes the oil in a heat/pressure mix. The resulting flavor is compromised due to the heat, the oil is thinner, yet still conforms to the health and flavor attributes that make olive so attractive as an oil choice. The third oil extraction, or pure olive oil, is a heat/pressure/solvent removal – taxing the fragrance, texture and flavor almost to neutral, yet still a product of the olive, and conforming to the dietary and nutritional parameters of olive oil.
Extra-virgin, has the lowest heat tolerance capability, and is usually used uncooked in salad dressings and contributing flavorings – that rich mouth-feel last minute drizzle – and should only be exposed to delicate heating/sautéing. I’ve even had extra virgin olive oil ice cream (delicious!). Virgin is used for light and brief sautéing/frying, minimal cooking/baking or moderate heat exposure. General olive oil is used for higher heat usage, frying, deep-frying and extended baking just as vegetable or canola oils would be.
Extra virgin olive oil will be used in this book only when stated as such, otherwise, virgin (best) or pure olive oil is the default oil when ‘olive oil’ is mentioned.
Oil in general is chosen with canola being best for the light texture, health contribution, heat capability and unobtrusive taste. Peanut oil (all the above attributes, except for a light, wonderful flavor addition) is even more superb for frying and especially deep-frying, but some folks with peanut allergies may react. Although the allergy is usually confined to the peanut proteins/solids, check with your guests as to their physician’s direction.
PEPPERS – fresh: Jalapeño, Serrano, poblano, pasilla, New Mexico, habañero, Tabasco, cherry, banana, Cubanelle, Anaheim, Thai, Colorado, bird – dried/smoked: chipotle, ancho, guajillo, de árbol, pasilla, mulatto, cascabel – and pickled/brined: pepperoncini, nacho, chili paste, banana, cherry I’d say that most of these peppers are available now in larger city markets, or if you’re living in a Hispanic-oriented neighborhood, then you’re a lucky soul, as the market selections will be more varied, fresh and rotated regularly. Each one of these beauties has a unique taste and heat. I highly recommend getting a book on peppers (most bookstores have them, sometimes on the ‘markdown’ table) and then there’s library sources and online which has almost endless information.
The health factors are amazingly high, and should be given the education to be understood and utilized.
Roasted peppers have a taste that is unequaled in flavor, back-taste and richness. Dried peppers add unique savory or sweet to a dish, as well as contributing a natural thickening and textural richness without dairy or fat. One could buy prepared ground dried pepper spices, but like any other prepared ground spice presentation, the risk of mitigated flavor and potency is always in question. It’s so easy to prepare freshly yourself, that once you try it, the commercial bottled offering will never return to your spice rack (recipe here with the ‘chili’ recipe).
Fresh chilies should be firm fleshed, tiny wrinkle-free, and usually have a good color sheen. The heat is contained largely in the seeds and ribs, so the tip is usually the ‘coolest’ part of the chili. The hotter chilies should be handled carefully and smartly with latex or vinyl disposable gloves (with the cutting, veining and seeding, but not necessarily for just handling the whole pepper).
Even the ‘feared’ habañero has a wonderful fruity rich taste along with its heat and should by no means be disregarded in a recipe. The ‘hottest pepper on the planet’ should be respected and NEVER tossed in the mouth ever on a dare – not even a double dog dare! (to my dismay, I have witnessed this, and it isn’t pretty, actually can be dangerous) – but it can be seeded and ribbed, diced finely and added (entire or partial) to a larger dish, salsa and/or a sauté for a wonderful contribution. At the least it can be carefully slit, or halved and seeded, added to a ‘wet’ dish, broth or soup and then removed like a bay leaf. A lovely bit of the flavor and a minor amount of heat will be contributed without the fear of flaming tonsils.
Peppers are a worldwide love, and our ‘middle-America’ culture needs to catch up!
POMEGRANATE SEEDS – A wonderful, seasonal (September to January) seed/fruit that has great nutrition and anti-oxidant value, let alone a great flavor, ‘pucker’ and texture. To extract pomegranate seeds from their pod, find a fruit that is deep in color, with a thin skin that is tough and unbroken, with minimal white pithy part. Just prior to use, cut off crown part, and score the globe with a sharp knife through the skin into four sections. Pull apart at the scores and carefully crumble seeds apart from the skin and pith with fingers in a bowl of cool water – they will float to the surface. Separate seeds and remove, drain. Yields about ½ cup, and keep chilled. They may be found dried like raisins in specialty stores, and re-hydrated as with raisins in water, juices or liquors.
SALT – table salt, Kosher salt, sea salt (fleur de sel, red, gray or pink etc), rock salt, pickling salt Salt is a mineral derived from sea origins, which had been dissolved in the vast oceans of ancient times and deposited atop land by gravity, evaporation or stagnancy. Veins of salt found inland (once sea bottoms), and salt produced from seawater evaporation are basically the same. The only difference is other dissolved minerals and dried microscopic oceanic flora and fauna which may accompany the sodium found in seawater, plus the manner in which the water is evaporated and the difference in technique that the residual mineral is harvested.
Rock salt is merely a coarser mineral state. Table salt is ground to a prescribed size. Kosher and sea salts are harvested by evaporation in a less granular, more ‘flakier’ crystalline presentation, making them a lesser mass in relation to their volume (usually twice the volume of ‘table’ salt for similar weight). These latter options also dissolve more readily due to the finer grain presentation, as do pickling salts (a very finely ground, pure variety). Never use iodized salts for pickling, as the iodine darkens the pickled item in a rather un-pretty way.
In this book, table salt is used as a default; but if using Kosher or sea salt, double the volume.
TERMS – basic cooking terms and references Just so that we are in accord, I’m including some of the terms I use in this book, and will briefly describe what I determine that they mean, so we’re preparing the dish as I intend it would be understood:
Braise This is a contained ‘liquid fry’ (not oil), and not an immersed boil; with a modest amount of liquid that also steams, but all at a lower heat level (simmer), and covered for a slow tenderizing of fats, tendons, cellulose and collagens. It is not a quick cook, but a planned extension of time for tenderized texture and infused flavor.
Broil Cooking foods with dry, directly applied surface heat, where the heat source is usually above rather than below the food object, and the food is suspended (on an open rack or corrugated surface) in some fashion. This allows for air and heat circulation, and fats removal by gravity – and not cooking while submerged in fats or oils.
Deglaze Removing charred and caramelized food bits (Fond – French for base or foundation) from the cooking surface by a quick ‘steam’ of liquid (usually water/broth, vinegar/wine or beverage/juice based) introduced in a small portion all at once into the heated mass, boiling it immediately and thus dissolving the bits into the deglazing liquid and away from the cooking surface.
Fry Heating a food bit, slice or slab to cooked finish by introducing the food to a very hot surface with fat or oil lubrication. The cooking surface must be solid and level to contain the layer of fat/oil, and the food is cooked in this fashion to render the outer surface to a caramelized state, or at least more finished than the interior.
Grill Heating a food bit, slice or slab to cooked finish by applying the food to a very hot surface, whether a solid, flat metal or stone surface; a corrugated metal or wire surface; or a metal mesh or skewered elevated containment – with or without oil lubrication. The heat source is usually below and in close contact with the food, although it may be from two or more sides, in which case it is more often then referred to as roast.
Mince/dice/cube/chop These terms basically refer to the final size of cut morsel desired. Mince is almost a mash, it is cut up so finely. Dice is usually a cubed presentation (like the game piece ‘dice’), of prescribed size, but usually less than an inch. Cube is what is found to be usually more than an inch in size. Chop is the act of cutting things into pieces, flakes or sheds – or the name referring to the final cut up piece.
Poach Very similar to braise, as it is a gentle liquid (non-oil) simmer and not a boil, but the liquid immersion is usually flavored and in a deeper depth, if not complete immersion, and not necessarily covered.
Sauté The word (saw-tay) is French for jump – and our word ‘saunter’ comes from the same base. Frying the morsels of foods in an agitated fashion, by moving the pan and/or stirring and flipping the bits to keep them evenly cooked on all sides and coated in the accompanying cooking oils/liquids all at once, is the target finish. This is not a walk-away fry or grill, it’s a monitored technique, and is usually a quick task.
TOMATOES – canned vs fresh. Should you have a garden or other access to fresh grown produce, then there is no great issue here for you. Tomatoes provided through a supermarket are harvested while still green (firm) for secure and structurally sound transport, and brought to red by introduction of ethylene gas (but usually still somewhat green inside). What is called ‘vine ripened’ in the supermarkets refers to tomatoes that have been harvested while only a small bit red, and likewise exposed to ethylene gas. The only tomatoes that have been harvested while allowed to come to full red on the vine are the expensive/gourmet ‘specialty on-the-vine’ style, or those intended for canning purposes (peeled whole, diced, crushed, puréed, concentrated or paste etc).
Purchased partially-ripe tomatoes may be left in a cool, indirectly sunlit safe space to bring to red – and more flavor throughout the fruit, within a day or so. Refrigerate ripened fresh tomatoes ONLY if using within a few hours. Storing ripened tomatoes is difficult, as they will not ‘hold’. Use as they ripen, so planned purchasing is necessary. If you’re making a cooked version of the tomato fruit, then canned (incidentally tomatoes are usually canned within eight hours of harvest) will represent the freshest and ripest version of tomato available to the urban dweller, especially out of season (it’s a summer fruit); and pay attention to the sodiums used in the packaged presentation. Check out the varieties of presentations, such as roasted and/or chile infused.
UTENSILS – It’s great to have all the fine tools shown on TV or in cookbooks – but in reality, you only need a modest list of kitchen basics: A good, sharp chef’s knife (8-10 inches, quality, balanced, along with a good Sharpener) and A paring knife. A finely serrated ‘bread’/slicing knife, at least 10-12 inches. Two cutting boards: A plastic/polyethylene board for raw meats – one side for raw chicken/poultry and the other side for other raw meats/shellfish (the plastic may be immersed, and sterilized with bleach); and A wooden board for cooked meats and for vegetables – one side for sweet/generic and cooked meats/fruits/vegetables; the other side for savory and brined/vinegar/onions and garlic – which does NOT mix with fruit! The sides may be color coded or marked with a wood-burning tool. A four-to-six grating option ‘box’ grater, sturdy, and rubber based for steady placement. At least two mixing bowls – one very large – of plastic or stainless – great for salads, tossing and coating. A whisk (look for one safe for non-stick). Liquid measuring cups/spoons, and Dry measuring cups/spoons. A large non-stick sauté/fry pan (chicken fryer with lid is great). A large, seasoned cast iron skillet/fry pan. At least one 2-3 quart sized saucepan and lid. Wooden flat-bottomed stirring spatulas, spoons of varying sizes, and Metal full-sized serving and slotted spoons. And finally, Two spatulas – one broad, one narrow – both suitable for non-stick. Eventually you’ll want to get: A few sizes of casserole dishes, A six to seven quart Dutch oven or ‘turkey roaster’ pan with lid (even aluminum throw away will do at times) and A sturdy stockpot and lid. One or two half-sized sheet pans (preferable) or sturdy, quality cookie sheets. Also A rasp-style ‘microplane’ for zesting and grating, An accurate instant-read insert thermometer, A deep-fry oil and/or candy thermometer, and An accurate oven thermometer, and lastly A size appropriate food processor and/or blender. Try restaurant supply houses, but also ‘Yard sales’ finds are great for utensils that aren’t ‘non-stick’ or wooden (wood handles are OK), that are stable (well attached handles and good fitting lids etc) and can be sterilized. Base what you choose on what you like to prepare, and shop with frugal but quality thought.
VANILLA – imitation vs real The supermarket shelves are always stocked with ‘imitation’ as well as ‘pure’ vanilla extract, and I was always curious why the two were offered when all the cooking shows and recipe books seem to admonish never using ‘imitation’. Imitation extract is made from perhaps some actual vanilla bean infusion, plus vegetative extracts containing but not limited to tree/wood origins. Before you think ‘how awful’, just consider that most fine wines/liquors/vinegars have been aged in (that means soaked in) wood for the complex flavor it imparts, and we’re talking sometimes for decades. Plus, even more close to the heart, just think ‘maple syrup’. Yessir, boiled-down tree juice! Now I don’t hear ANYONE saying ‘how awful’. And the defense rests.
It’s not ‘industrial’, nor is it bad tasting; in fact, it does taste just fine, and quite lovely. Its main detractors are potency and longevity. One is not a bad cook because affordability dictates options. There is a homemade recipe for real vanilla extract here in this book, and with that, you’ll know exactly what ingredients are in your best flavoring buddy. Just know that your top option is the ‘real thing’, but don’t stop making something decadent for dessert because all you have is ‘imitation’ – your favorite dessert will still win very happy smiles.
VINEGARS – balsamic grocer style vs aged; wine/rice wine vinegars, fruit wine vinegars, distilled vinegars Vinegars are prepared in a multitude of fashions, ranging from formation options of the base wine, age, spicings, flavorings and blendings – to containment, production and dilutions. They range from high acidity and very pungent – to dessert-level sweet; and they can hold a delicate, light taste or be overwhelmingly vaporous. There are also varieties of production levels, resulting in pricing – from naturally barrel-aged twelve years (or more); to chemically produced and activated and rendered in a few days (or less).
Lighter tasting vinegars such as grape wine, rice wine and champagne wine vinegars are great with lighter more slight ‘proteins’ such as pale fleshed delicate fish, veal, shellfish, chicken, and tofu (and in a marinade for such); dried/delicate fruits and vegetables and simple sauces. Deeper flavored vinegars such as apple cider, sherry, malt, fruit and balsamic combine best with the richer ‘proteins’ such as hearty fishes, red meats, ostrich, buffalo, and game; wild/cultivated mushrooms (and in a marinade for such), robust sauces, hearty fresh vegetables and fruits; and complex sauces and gravies. Distilled is the most acidic and pungent, used usually for cleaning as much as for cooking, but effective in dishes that are themselves requiring a strong ‘bite’ like BBQ and sweet and sour sauces, as well as some picklings -- and is used basically when the taste, bite and aroma match the need.
Balsamic vinegars can range from an off-the-shelf purchase at the local market, to an investment comparable to a fine 25-year bourbon purchased through a top-quality liquor salon. Both have their place, and the flavors offered are not at all a waste of time for the chosen dish. Fine balsamics are even suitable for sipping, along with being a select flavor additive to special dishes (savory or sweet) – never cooked into, but rather ‘drizzled’ over for a final complex flavor contribution -- and should be used to that perspective.
Market/ store-bought balsamics are the default choice in this book, and should be chosen by reading the label and optioning for an aged mild vinegar-based selection that contains something based on light acidity, and not be a product of blending red wine vinegar with brown sugar or caramel. The price ($10–20) will usually dictate the production care and ingredient list of your balsamic option.
WINE FOR COOKING – Wine is an excellent flavor addition and flavor enhancer to most any dish, sweet or savory. Most markets carry a wine/sherry that is labeled as ‘cooking wine’. Please do NOT fall into believing that it is a qualified wine for cooking because of the label or title. This fiasco has been supplemented with additives and salts to facilitate the preservative requirement – as natural drinking wines do have a ‘ticking clock’, especially when opened, and this ‘cooking’ wine creates a niche in cooking where time or environment isn’t a huge influence. The salt content is quantifiably off the charts, and can do more damage to a dish than any enhancing. Taste it. A good tasting wine is your answer, and ‘cooking wines’ bring to mind brackish sea water.
As with most quality ingredients, time IS a factor, and freshness and wholesomeness DO make a difference.
When choosing a wine as a flavor additive in a dish, simply use an affordable (expensive wine will only be wasted, just stay with a quality, grounded brand, around $6-10 tops) market wine that tastes pleasant when you open the bottle or after you let it set briefly to ‘breathe’. Taste it, smell it, and look at it – as a cook should, and then if you like it, you can be assured it’ll be a great addition to the recipe you’re using that calls for wine. Leftover wines from dinners recently past also make a good option. Store your opened wines well-sealed, refrigerated and use within a week or so.
Red wines (like Côtes du Rhône, merlots, cabernets, shirazes) are usually avoided for lighter fare such as chicken, fish, some pork, veal, and seafoods -- as reds also carry tannins, the elements that accompany the red color. Tannins give the ‘bite’ and back taste in the sip, but in high-heat or long-term cooking they work into the dish, sometimes transforming to a complex bitter, and may not complement the dish. In beef and richer meat prepared dishes (beef, buffalo, wild game, and some pork cuts - used in dishes such as Bourguignon, Stroganoff, cacciatore, osso bucco, stews, etc), these bitters are deliciously harmonized by the sweetness brought through caramelized sugars and proteins of the meats and vegetables during the extended cooking time -- and balance out very nicely. Chicken and fish dishes cook much more quickly and lightly, not allowing the sweetness or flavor intricacy to develop sufficiently to stand up to the complexities brought by red wines. Here a white wine choice opts for better taste enhancements (like sauvignon blancs, pinot grigios, rieslings, but lastly chardonnays). However, coq au vin (coke-oh van) – using a ‘tough old rooster’, is a perfect exception to this idea, simmering at length, and finding red wine to be the perfect complement. Fortified wines (like marsalas, sherries, vermouths, ports) are used in unique and special dishes where the wine flavor becomes the ‘star’ of the dish. Of these, sherry and vermouth are the most mildly flavored, and agile enough to use more broadly.
Then again, there are ‘new’ red wines, released in France (Beaujolais region) on the third Thursday of November (for us yanks, that’s a week before Thanksgiving, great timing!), which are fresh wines from the Gamay grape that are ‘aged’ in regard to weeks instead of years. The nouveau Beaujolais wine is an excellent option when available. They are a HUGE deal, and a major event in France and Europe. They are like the ‘futures’ in the citrus and stock market options here; everyone pays attention to the early tastes of the year’s harvest. Nouveau Beaujolais wines should be searched out by anyone devoted to the lovely complex simplicity (yes, I know that’s an oxymoron) found in a wide range of table wines. The contribution of tannins and acids is considerably lower than an aged red so these wines are slightly less complex (although very tasty) and a great thought for any cuisine – whether it be cooked or imbibed – and whether with a red or white wine-oriented dish.
WINE FOR DRINKING – There are those folks who serve only by the black-and-white rule of whites for chicken, fish and other ‘white’ meats -- and reds for dark or ‘red’ meats. This generalization is because a complex, full-bodied wine could overpower a delicately flavored meal. And it’s basically true. However, not all reds are full-bodied or complex, and not all whites are light-bodied or delicate. Consider the aforementioned Beaujolais.
The best rule of thumb is to serve a wine with which you are familiar – that you like the taste of and enjoy -- and be sure of your mix at the table. If someone brings a wine that they happen to like to your dinner party, then you are pretty sure to have a good option in serving it. If the wine is a complete unknown, then sample and see what you think. Trust your ‘ear’, and you’ll know if it’s good with the foods or with the mix of people. If it doesn’t seem to match your entrée, it just might be a great pairing with the hors d’oeurves or dessert – or before dinner as an apéritif or after as a digestif. Some red wines need to be opened and allowed to ‘breathe’, or set for a bit of time to allow some evaporation, oxidation and/or stimulation from the exposure of oxygen/carbon dioxide. I’ve had wines that I thought were an expensive waste upon first opening, and after a half-hour or so, ended up being a delicious and wonderful addition to the event. Wines are so worth the time.
It’s not uncommon to serve both red and white with a meal, either with different associated dishes, or both at once to those who prefer either. This is never a bad option. If you are well versed in wines, you can certainly dictate the mix with your meal -- and your friends and guests will happily depend on your experience and education to guide them in their choices. Simply said, drink what pleases you.
As it is said, ‘Vino es vida’ – wine is Life!
