A GRAIN OF TRUTH

Grains are the base, the foundation of societies, the continuation of the species – if I may be so bold to proclaim.  Vast fields spanning huge expanses of land are dedicated to the propagation of them.  Their oftimes used term ‘staff of life’ is no misnomer.  The uses, flavors and recipes for grains are so vast, I’m not going to try to give a repertoire of recipes, but lay out my perspective on the basics and treatment for attaining best flavors and textures – with a couple of examples for you to expand from.  Give it your ear.

By definition, grains, simply said, are the seeds of various grasses.  There ya are.  The most commonly known varieties are:  

WHEAT:  Wheat is perhaps the best-recognized grain in the US, if not the world.   In its whole grain form (NOT to be confused with ‘multi-grain’, ‘100% grain’ or ‘full grain’.  Whole wheat may also be found as related varieties known as ‘buckwheat’, ‘kasha’ and ‘bulgur’) it is richest in taste, fuller in texture, and most nutritious in content (in that the ‘bran’, ‘endosperm’ and ‘germ’ are still intact).  The downsides to this form are that ‘light’ bread preparations and pastries are most difficult, ‘quick’ cook methods are not feasible, and ‘mildness’ of taste is basically over-ruled.  In this form, it can be rough-cracked and softened with moisture and used in soups and breakfast cereals.  While ground fine, whole-wheat flour makes a dense, hearty bread or other baked good – even when utilizing leaveners such as sodas and yeasts – or when prepared as a flatbread (naan, tortilla, pita etc).  

In a refined form (the hull, ‘bran’ and ‘germ’ removed), it is paler in color, more susceptible to absorption of liquids and lighter in flavor and in texture.  In this form it is best known in the US, being used as  ‘pastry flour’, ‘all purpose flour’, and ‘bread flour’ – depending on the proportion of protein (in the form of gluten) in the particular variety of wheat grain selected, with ‘pastry’ being the lowest, up to ‘bread’ being the highest.  This form is more suitable with yeasts for most breads; and when whole-wheat flour is used alongside the refined, it makes a more pleasant texture.  It is usually re-fortified with vitamins, minerals and nutrients post-harvest to compensate for the losses brought on in refinement.  Choosing ‘unbleached’ is the best form of the refined option one can choose nutrition-wise.

RICE – Given more detail in the ‘rice is nice’ section of this blog.  It is found in thousands of varieties across the globe.  Like most all grains, it too has a popular use in alcoholic beverages.

CORN – Cultivated for millennia in the Americas.  The propagation has been divided into hundreds of varieties, ranging from very rustic, firm and basic for animal fodder – to very sweet, juicy and light varieties for fine dining.  It can be used fresh and consumed even raw off the cob – or dried and ground to a meal or flour.  In a ground flour or meal presentation, it has been a staple on the human plate for centuries. 

The most common whole grain corn offering is directly off the cob (in thousands of cooked and raw fashions), plus found also in the ever-popular snack – popcorn.  As an alcoholic source, corn not only is used for human consumption (ask anyone in the southern US about ‘white lightnin’), but now is also used as a fuel additive and alternate combustion option.

BARLEY, OATS AND RYE:  Lesser-known grains that are still greatly used, and known perhaps more for their contribution to alcohols and fermented presentations than a daily thought to a chewable diet.  In the US, these were more widely used in times past, and took a ‘back seat’ with the introduction of the more easily grown wheat.  They all contain much less gluten than wheat, making them a less successful option for breads as we know them.  Their flavor, texture and aromas are very unique, unlike the more ‘main-stream’ flavored wheat, making their addition to any food a very obvious one (but a good one!).  Barley makes an excellent flavor/nutrition boost to soups (turkey barley soup is my favorite), breads, cereals and pastas (with barley as an additional flour).   Oats are likewise a huge nutritional contributor, and although used greatly for animal fodder, it also has a very large place on the human plate as well.  Mostly oats are found in ‘rolled’, ‘bran’ and ‘flakes’ presentations, and claim a sizable offering with breakfast, soup, dessert and baking menus.   Rye is the least known with US homes.  It has a delicious specific taste; that as in flour form, works well with breads, crackers and other savory pastry presentations.  Like oats, it can be whole or rolled in use.

GRAIN-LIKE FOODS:  Legumes and seeds that have been used similar to grain for breads and other carbohydrate dishes are quinoa (pronounced ‘keen wah’ – a seed, but not of the grass family), wild rice (a water grass seed), lentils and chickpeas/garbanzo beans (both legumes), and ostensibly couscous (coos-coos) – a northern African grain dish that is basically a dried, crumbled pasta.

PREPARATIONS:  ROAST:  Applying indirect heat, as I have said a few times ;>) in this blog/book, one of our best taste friends is caramelization.  This rings so very true with grain preparations as well.  Like the specific seeds used for coffee and chocolate (can you imagine THEM without caramelization?), the roast has the potential for bringing enormous flavor complexities to any grain/seed dish.   This success may be accomplished through either a dry heat roast, toast or an oil fry preparation.  Roasted corn has a huge presentation selection, ranging from many Native American/Mexican/Italian sources (corn pudding, elote, polentas, salads etc) to European dishes from the east as well as the west.  Roasted cracked wheat grains and bulgurs offer a rich flavor in soups and long-cook dishes, plus offer an enlarged nutrition contribution as well.

TOAST:  Applying direct heat, like a dry frying pan or ‘toaster’ style oven brings a nice fresh ‘up-surge’ of grain flavor.  The essential oils have been encouraged, as with the other heat applications, but in this dry sense, the structure remains more ‘true’, if not wonderfully enhanced.  Toasted oats, barley, wheat (I love the smell of toast in the morning), quinoa, couscous and rye are a scent to behold.  This step as a first one makes the final dish even more richly enjoyable.

FRY:  Some rice examples, Rice Pilaf and Risotto, are prepared by sautéing the selected rice grains in butter/oil/animal fats prior to addition of the waters and liquors.  Toasted or sautéed barley introduced into a hearty soup is famous for many grandmothers to attest.  We can go on for days about fried corn (any couch potato will happily affirm), as the effort is so worth the rich tastes given.  And with wheat, the effects of fried wheat flour (a caramelized roux) are legendary in Creole and Cajun cuisines. 

MOISTURE:  A freshly roasted, toasted or fried grain will be more ‘thirsty’ for moistures to re-constitute the grain texture to an edible state.  Usually, the first moisture added to a dish after heating the grain will be the primary flavor the grain will take on into the individual granule.  Usually this flavor is found with wine in some form; but stocks/broths, flavored oils, juices and various flavored waters are used as well to a lovely success.

Some grains are very hard hulled, or densely formed, requiring that moisture be added patiently and slowly – so, as with many beans and legumes, a good overnight soak may be desired (especially with faro and rye).  Rice often is soaked for extraction of the delicate flavor and using primarily this liquid, continued further to become puddings, drinks and soups.  Dried/treated corn has been ground then re-constituted for centuries, creating many American Indian/Mexican dishes (i.e. masa), Italian polenta, as well as a mandatory Southern staple – grits. 

Some grains, if not all, are grown and/or stored in a fashion that the fine powders of other crushed grains – or a surface residue produced within the growth or storage process – may most likely cover the individual grains, affecting the final cooked tastes and textures.  Submerging, rinsing and draining the grains at least once in cool, fresh water as a basic preparation step makes a good idea for pretty much all grains you wish to use in a dish. 

Cooking most whole grains in a simmer/steam fashion requires about 40-50 minutes cooking time to soften (some after an overnight soak), while most refined grains require 20-30 minutes for their tender ‘bite’.

As with any new idea, always smell the ingredient options together under your experienced nose. Trust how it ‘sounds’ to you.  Try stepping out of your comfort zone and give new taste ideas a try.

Two of my topmost grain recipe thoughts:

ROASTED CORN, ah, roasted wonderfulness.  Of all the grain options, this is certainly one of my favorites.  There’s something about the taste of the caramelization along with the sweetness of the corn that finds such deliciousness.   Whether roasted in a hot pan (lightly oiled or non-stick), or over an open flame, or in a hot oven – the results will be almost the same – light brown edges with an occasional dark bit here and there.  Placing the un-husked cob directly on the coals in a BBQ can make a delicious roasted taste.  Just watch and sniff carefully (plus, removing the ‘silks’ is easier after the corn has cooked).  Just prior to finishing the roast, slather the naked cob in a flavor/texture ‘ointment’ that ensures the adhesion of further tastes and textures.  Some like mayonnaise (famous for just being delicious), some like butter (but try garlic and/or herb butter).  I personally found bleu cheese dressing to make a nice accompaniment to corn.  One can also try a bit of nut-butter as a base slather, starting with the famous peanut butter, but don’t stop there – cashew butter (!), almond butter – so evilly good.  Mix a portion, about a fourth, with three-quarters cow’s milk butter, and use as you would table butter. 

Returning the cob to roast just a bit further (in the case of the BBQ, this time the peeled back corn is set on the grill) sets this ‘slather’ well into the flavor of the corn.  The roasted coating you choose also makes a great adhesion for just one more flavor and texture layer.  Some like grated Parmesan, Grana padano or Cotija cheeses.  Some like crushed nuts/seeds – try sesame, sunflower or caraway seeds!  Some like crushed prepared snack foods like potato chips, corn chips or salty pretzels.  Some also like to sprinkle roasted spices or fresh herbs:  Cumin, paprika, cayenne – it would seem they are made to go with corn.  When all is done, after all the roast, try adding fresh chopped cilantro, thyme, dill and/or tarragon.   And always, salt and pepper.  Remember, your dining guests will most likely have these messy ingredients up their cheeks, and perhaps in their ears, so lavish this dish with only your closest friends! 

A safer ‘less-mess’ version, corn pudding, is almost the same ingredients and options, but the corn is trimmed first, the ‘corn milk’ squee-gee’d off the cob, the corn and sugars slow roasted together with the flavorants, with milk and eggs into a custardy, rich, very flavorful mass.  Yowza.

RICE PUDDING – Another wonderfully delicious taste, and so many versions and preparations for it.  Some choose to start with raw rice (a short grain or arborio), and cook it in three times the volume of milk or half-half (cream is just too rich).  This makes a lovely textural and rich rice, but the ease of scorching the milk is very high – so proceed with caution, stirring often, like risotto.  Sometimes soaking the rice in water and/or milk several hours to overnight will ease the final heat preparation a bit (use the soaking liquid in the cook as well).  When tender, almost mushy and just barely approaching dry, the rice is then mixed with a selection of ‘creamy’ ingredients such as sweet potato mash, pumpkin pie (canned or fresh) filling, nut butters, preserves/jams/marmelades, mashed soft fruits such as very ripe bananas, mangoes, papaya and/or persimmon – even a portion of canned sweetened condensed milk along with canned evaporated milk, which may then be slow baked or stove-top cooked till thick like porridge, and is only limited by your imagination. 

Other versions call for cooked rice, this time long grain (used while warm and soft).  In this preparation, the pudding is prepared as if a custard, with eggs as the gentle thickener.   Either full eggs for a lighter texture, or egg yolks alone for a denser finish.  Simmered in a milk base, with sugar, sweetened condensed milk and/or honey/molasses/maple as well as barley or agave syrups and brought to a careful finish by either baked in a bain-marie (water bath) low and untouched – or roasted dry and stirred occasionally – or very low stove top with careful stirring and blending.

Flavor and texture additions can be diced dried or fresh fruits (dark or golden raisins, dried cherries, dried cranberries/Craisins, dried pineapple, dried apricots/peaches/strawberries etc, dates, currants, figs, fresh berries, fresh cherries, fresh apples/peaches/plums, segments of citrus – oranges, limes, lemons – with their juices added into the original bake). 

Spicing can be the usual cinnamon and vanilla – but try cardamom, nutmeg, cayenne and/or just a hint of allspice.   Almond extract at the finish, simply a breath of luscious.

Subtle textures can be chewy, as in the dried fruits, but a mild crunch may be asserted with nuts, seeds, fresh crunch fruits diced small (apples, pears, jicama, celery etc) or crushed candies and/or candy bars – Butterfinger anyone?   In the warm pudding, try stirring in shaved or morsel bits of chocolate, white chocolate, butterscotch, caramel – yes, it’s bad but so good.

In a stew

CIOPPINO

a fish gathering   
serves six to eight 

Cioppino (chuh-peen-oh) sounds really Italian.  Like Chop Suey sounds so Asian. 

Well, with all best intents, according to somewhat trustworthy lore, Cioppino started on the docks of San Francisco with all the fish mongers at their stalls ‘chipping in’ for the day’s market communal fish stew.  That became a song of sorts as purveyors often make, singing ‘chip-in-Oh!’ while soliciting for the fish sellers to contribute – which evolved to what we now know. 

Heat oven to 400°

Tools:  5 quart Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, rimmed sheet pan or cookie sheet, large fry/saute pan, mid-sized bowl

Prep:  Fresh or fresh thawed fish, cut to bite-sized or just larger.  Shell the shrimp (some choose to leave the tail on for a ‘handle’ but I find it inconvenient in soups and salads) – best if de-veined and butterflied (partially slit down the back to curl inside out when cooked - it makes a great ‘bite’ texture for shrimp).  Scrub the bi-shelled creatures' surfaces well of dirt and grit.  Some folks prep clams and oysters by placing the live shell creatures in a swirled bath of cool fresh water and a sprinkle of corn meal, which the creature exchanges for the grit it has in its interior (which takes about two hours to half a day).  When ‘bearding’ clams/oysters – the removal of the stringy, tough fibers near the hinge – do not do so until just ready to cook.  The removal of the ‘beard’ will begin the demise of the creature, and doing this any lengthy time in advance will definitely undermine the success of your dish. 

Overcooking is a big deal with fish as well.  Every effort against that malady is foremost in this recipe.

3-5 cloves garlic, peeled, medium-thin sliced
            (but grouped together single layer when roasting)

2    bell peppers (color your choice, red is sweetest),

cut into small bite-sized strips

2    small onions, halved pole to pole, cut off ends and peeled,

sliced in small wedges like an orange

2    medium carrots, small bite-sized diced

3-4 stalks celery, small bite-sized diced

1-3 peppers (jalapeno or Serrano) stemmed,

seeded, diced small
            AND/OR 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

1    smallish bulb fennel, sliced quarter-moons 

2    tbs olive oil

salt and pepper

3-4 lbs fish (fresh or fresh thawed!) your call – crab and lobster (pre-cooked, shelled), shrimp (peeled), scallops, oysters, clams, mussels, squid/calamari (cleaned), plus a good hearty white fish like cod, haddock, scrod, trout, tilapia, etc (diced 1-2 inch cubes).  If using shell/bivalve fish options like oysters, mussels and clams, at least double that specific amount in weight (you don’t eat those heavy shells!)

1   pkg salt pork or fatback, about 10-12 oz,

skin removed, rinsed well, diced ¼ inch

2-3  lbs tomatoes, diced medium small plus 1 cup broth,

or 1  28 oz can whole tomatoes, juice and all

1   cup dry white wine

2   quarts chicken stock and/or fish stock 

(watch sodiums and salts)

2   bottles clam juice

1   tsp oregano or 1  tbs  fresh minced

1   tsp dill or 1 tbs fresh minced

1   tsp thyme  or 1 tbs fresh minced
2   3-4 inch peel (color only, no white) orange peel

1   bay leaf

pinch saffron (optional but so nice)

1   tbs (splash) red wine, champagne or sherry vinegar

several glugs or ¼  cup brandy, Courvoisier, cognac,

Armagnac – optional but again so nice

fresh finely diced parsley and basil with just a tiny bit of
            fresh mint and rosemary

Preparation:  Place vegetable pieces in bowl, drizzle oil over, toss and cover all the bits.  Spread out on a baking sheet and salt and pepper.  Place in hot (400°) oven and roast for ten to fifteen minutes, flipping over halfway through.   Place the fish bits in the bowl and do the same oil drizzle and toss.  Remove hot sheet pan from oven and carefully relocate veggies to half of the pan, then place large fin-type fish pieces which are thicker on pan first.  Return to oven for 2-3 minutes, remove, then add shrimp, calamari and/or scallops in with the half-roasted vegetables and fish chunks – plus a fresh sprinkling of salt and pepper – and return to hot oven (could be reset to 'broil') for another four to six minutes (not flipping, watch carefully) until no longer translucent – lightly golden and just underdone (but definitely NOT overdone).

Meanwhile, in the cool stockpot or Dutch oven, add pork bits and bring both pan and bits to heat together.  When beginning to sizzle and color, add the vinegar and let sputter till almost dry, then add the dried spices/bay leaf stirring well, and let bloom a few minutes in the fats.  Next add the tomatoes, wine, clam juice and broth bringing to a bold simmer and adjust flame to support that simmer while carefully breaking apart the tomatoes.  Now add orange peels and reduce liquid content by a quarter to blend and strengthen flavors.  Next carefully add the clams, oysters and mussels.  Simmer gently, covered, while shellfish open and come to perfect done (around three-five minutes) – releasing their 'liquor' into the broth.  Now sprinkle over with fresh herbs if chosen.  When the roasted vegetables and fish in the oven have come ready (fish just under-done), remove and add to the tomato/shellfish mix (separate the garlic and mash well, then blend well with a bit of the broth in a cup and return to the stew) and bring to heat gently until all the shellfish have nicely finished cooking or opened (remove any shells that won’t).  Taste and adjust seasonings.
 

Lastly add the brandy and final fresh herbs, along with any pre-cooked fish (lobster, crab etc), simmering very softly just until you can’t stand it anymore (mostly residual heat to bring all to same heat level) – bring to the table – and serve in a generous bowl with a ‘knob’ of fresh sweet butter on top and a wedge or two of lemon on the side, along with the sourest, crustiest sourdough bread you can find.

Options: Potatoes or pasta may be added, but best if pre-cooked, and added at the final simmer (or in the case of pasta, served over at plating).   Cream always is welcome, but the richness of this dish doesn't require such a final heart confrontation.  But your likes can decide.

BEEF STEW 

Stroganoff meets Bourguignon     serves six to eight

I love both beef stroganoff and also beef bourguignon, so my bent way of thinking thought 'why not trying the two styles together?'  It may have been a long work-week, or a Saturday of wine tasting, I don’t know, but it worked out terrific.  Once upon a time I made beef stroganoff with pickles in it (I had read that this was a traditionally original addition), so with the idea that I love pickles with hamburgers, which is also a foundational beef taste, I gave it a shot.  I loved it.  So, you should too, just don’t overcook them.  Here’s that wild mix of traditions, I hope you like it as much as I did.  I just hope I can remember what I did!

Heat oven to mild heat 275-300°

Tools:  Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, saute/skillet pan

Ingredients:

3-4 lbs beef (chuck roast, top round, loin etc)

           trimmed of gristle, hard fat and/or silverskin,

           cut into bite-sized strips (1 x 2 x ¾)

¼   cup of my spice rub (equal parts – or 1 tbs each –

           paprika, powdered mustard, garlic powder, salt)

2    tsp ground pepper

1    tsp dried thyme

¼   cup flour

2    tbs oil (canola, peanut, vegetable, safflower)
2    tbs butter

2    cups (1 pint) dry red wine (burgundy, pinot noir, merlot)

1    pkg (about 8 oz) fatback/salt pork, trimmed

           of thick skin, rinsed, diced about ¼ inch

1    lb sliced mushrooms

2 medium-sized carrots, sliced at sharp diagonal, 
           then cut in half, lengthwise
1    lb pearl onions (pkg frozen, thawed is great)

1    tbs tomato paste

4    cups (1 quart) chicken or chicken/beef combined broth/stock
1    cup coffee, freshly brewed and strong

2    tbs Hoisin sauce
¼   cup rich fruit jelly - cherry, currant, grape etc.

¼   cup bread and butter pickle slices, cut

           into ‘matchstick’ strips, plus 1 tbs jar vinegar

3-4 green onions, both white and green parts, sliced medium-fine

¼   cup dry sherry    
½   package plain gelatin, bloomed/dissolved in sherry
splash cognac or balsamic vinegar

      1    cup sour cream, yogurt, Greek yogurt

Preparation:  Mix spice rub, pepper, thyme and flour in paper or zip lock bag.  Place meat bits in bag, puff of air and seal.  Shake till all the meat pieces are well covered and remove the bits, saving the left-over powder mix.  In large, broad-bottomed, coverable oven-safe pan (Dutch oven is perfect), heat oil and butter till water has simmered out of butter and just beginning to brown and place meat bits in single layer to sauté, flipping till all pieces are browned.  Cover the simmering meat bits in the wine, coffee and half the broth, bring back to a boil, reduce to a simmer and place in low heated oven, covered, for one and a half hours.  Check occasionally for dryness, stir it all up a bit, and add only tiny bits of broth or more wine if necessary.  The last half-hour, add the wine/gelatin mix.  Stir well.

While the meat is braising, in large cool skillet, place pork bits and bring both pan and pork to heat, until sizzling.  Stir occasionally till just beginning to brown all sides.  Add carrots and pearl onions and bring all to a nice golden, then add the tomato paste.  Allow the paste to brown a bit – stirring into the mass – then dust the leftover flour/herb mix over all the bits and stir into the fat briefly until aroma arises.  Add the mushrooms, Hoisin sauce, jelly and second half of the broth, carefully stir well, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer - simmering long enough to ensure good blending of the dry and wet ingredients and the tenderizing of the vegetables, and to reduce the liquids some (about ten to fifteen minutes), then remove from fire and hold.

At the end of the hour and a half, remove the covered meat from the oven, test for tenderness, and if satisfied - place on low-heated stovetop.  Combine the skillet mix into the braised meat, blend well and continue to heat gently for ten to fifteen minutes more.  Add the green onions, pickles, vinegar, and simmer for five minutes longer and add the liquor and/or balsamic vinegar.  Adjust seasonings and thickness if desired.  At serving add the sour cream/yogurt - the overall color is best if not blended in but rather dolloped over.

Options:  more veggies is never a bad idea.  Celery/celery root, potatoes, turnips, greens, peas (frozen at the last is easiest and best) and/or squash - and more - can always be considered for a greatly hearty stew, as your 'ear' thinks - or what you may have leftover!  

Serve over sturdy, flat, buttered noodles (homemade or dried) – or crushed butter-fried pre-baked (or boiled) potatoes – or in a tortilla – or on rice.  Hey, you decide.



CHICKEN GUISADA
(gee–sah–dah)
serves six to ten

Some folks get the term guisada mixed up with the term asada.  Well, basically - the first is meat prepared braised till very tender in a sauce or gravy, while asada is meat prepared on a grill or a dry heat preparation till caramelized and a great chew.  There, now you're fluent in Spanglish.

Stewed chicken, nothing new here – but this variety will make a nice surprise.  Use it as a filling for tacos, or even more continentally, stuffed in hollowed out breads, or in puff-pastry or pita shells, or with risotto or penne, or add to leftover soup, or humbly sopped on a rustic crust in one hand and hearty cheese in the other.

Tools:  stockpot, cutting board, frying or sauté pan

Prep:  There is now offered in most every supermarket out there a variety of chicken presentations in the frozen foods section.  Most helpful is the selection that offers individually frozen chicken parts – such as skinned, boneless thighs or breasts or tenders.

Other companion ingredients are vegetables and spices, so the creation is not difficult, and the rewards are huge.

Ingredients:    

            3-4   pounds frozen or fresh chicken pieces

            1½   lbs tomatoes (drained canned whole 28 oz,

                        or fresh), roughly diced

1     tbs dried crushed basil or ¼ cup fresh leaves,

          then chopped

             ¼   cup olive, grapeseed and/or canola oil           

1     lbs carrots diced, ½ to ¾ inch

3    stalks celery diced ½ to ¾ inch

2     medium onions diced ½ to ¾ inch

              2    small or one large mild green peppers, roasted,

                        peeled:  bell, poblano and/or New Mexico,

diced ½ to ¾ inch or 1 or 2   7oz canned mild

chiles (as you prefer), diced (peeling not absolutely 

necessary because of size of dice)

3     cloves garlic, chopped/minced fine

            1-2   jalapeños or Serranos, stemmed, seeded if desired,

                        chopped fine

1     tbs oregano
salt and pepper, to taste

Preparation:  In a large stockpot, place chicken parts (frozen or not) in lightly salted water, till just covering the chicken.  Add the basil and bring to boil, lower to simmer and cook covered until the chicken is done.  Remove from broth, allowing broth to continue at high heat, uncovered to reduce.  Let the chicken parts cool enough to remove skin and de-bone if necessary, and cut or tear into inch or so sized chunks.  Replace chicken to reduced broth, add the tomatoes and continue to cook, reduced to a simmer again – and encourage the meat fibers to ‘break up’ in construction, agitating with spoon or spatula or potato masher.  Simmer until the tomatoes have mostly broken down, the broth has considerably reduced and thickened (almost dissipated but very moist), and the chunks have tenderized to a shred.

Meanwhile, you have placed in a medium-hot sauté pan:  the oil, heated well, and added all the vegetables, cooking till tender, then add the garlic and oregano, a pinch of salt and pepper and have been sautéing these elements patiently at a medium light sizzle temperature until they are like candy – sweet, caramelized and just tender, about fifteen or twenty minutes (the time it took to prepare the chicken till ready).

Finally, carefully join the vegetables, spices, juices and oils with the simmered chicken.    You’ve created a masterpiece!

Options:  Try this folded in with, or just presented under, the green chile sauce (in this book) – wonderful together.

Add along with it:  diced or sliced fresh hot peppers, pickled peppers and onions, chopped cilantro, sautéed mushrooms, diced cherry peppers, diced olives (black and/or green), corn kernels, shredded cheese, grated radishes, sour cream or thickened yogurt. Try any of the above with:  A taco with queso fresco and shredded cabbage; with lettuce, fresh tomato and raw onion on a slice of crusty bread; like a hash, with cracked eggs baked on top; or as a stuffing for peppers, tomatoes, pork chops or pita. 

Anybody hungry?

Classic belly-warmers

GOOD OL’ MEATLOAF  

this three pound loaf feeds four to six

My mom wasn’t the only one influential with my cooking understanding.  Dad was a more realist mentality, cooking the easiest and most efficient way, with as many short-cuts as possible.  BBQ, fried eggs and toast, carving turkey and meatloaf were his areas of expertise.  Hey, I didn’t complain, he had good ideas, which usually came from his golfing buddies and friends (which meant they were tested throughout our neighborhood first).

For his meatloaf, he swore by mixing hamburger with Jimmy Dean prepared sausage.  He said the flavors, seasonings and fat flavor were already included in the mix, and all you had to do was cook it.  Made sense.  I’ll take his basic recipe and ramp it up just a bit.  Personally, I love vegetables and bacon in my meatloaf.  That said, it’s about the same as his otherwise.  For a sauce topper, most folks use ketchup, but Dad loved Lowry’s ‘Sweet and Sour’ BBQ sauce (bottled), which he’d mix with garlic powder and ketchup.  It works for me!

Preheat oven to 375̊

Tools:  baking sheet or broad casserole pan/dish, large mixing bowl, food processor, saute pan, cutting board/knife

Prep:  rough chop one stalk celery, one small peeled onion, half a pound mushrooms, several cloves garlic, a small carrot – and place in the food processor (they can be hand-diced, but it’s a bit of work) and pulse to a large ‘relish’.  Gently saute on medium to medium-high, in a combo of butter and oil, with a sprinkling of salt and sugar till rendered soft and beginning to caramelize nicely – about ten to fifteen minutes.  Next add the dried spices and herbs and let ‘bloom’ - or come to a good aroma.  Remove and let cool (very important - raw vegetables will NOT cook to a nice finish inside the loaf).

In the mixing bowl, blend two pounds cold ground chuck or sirloin with a half pound ‘log’ of your favorite breakfast prepared uncooked sausage blend.  Use a fork to slice/mash/fold together without bringing it up in heat.  Leave it all ‘open’ in a crumble for later ingredient mixing.

Ingredients     

            2     lbs medium ground chuck, sirloin, cold

                         (no more than 20% fat, 15% is best)

            ½    lb prepared breakfast type ground sausage blend

                         (like the aforementioned Jimmy Dean)

            1     tsp each ground dried basil, oregano, thyme

            ½    tsp dried ground sage

1       egg, beaten

1       tbs Worcestershire sauce (mixed with egg)

            1     tsp hot sauce  or ¼ tsp cayenne, (more if you like),

                        mixed with Worcestershire sauce and egg

            Splash milk (mixed with egg, Worcestershire sauce

                        and hot sauce)

            ¼    cup unseasoned bread crumbs (try homemade: 
                        grind two slices bread in processor till med-fine 
                        crumb, saute gently in med-hot pan and a tiny bit 
                        of oil/butter till lightly golden or bake several slices

of bread in a cool (200̊ F) oven till very firm and

crisp, barely colored, about 20 to 30 minutes. 

Break up into chunks and grind in the processor

till a med-fine crumb and use as recipe crumbs

instead of store-bought, saving the rest in a well-

sealed container)            

            The prepared veggie relish, cooled
           ½    tsp each salt and pepper

          4-6    slices oven-firmed bread slices (like mentioned above),
                        unbroken

              TOPPING SAUCES

           ½    cup favorite BBQ sauce/ketchup blend (like the

                        aforementioned Lowry’s ‘Sweet and Sour’ BBQ

                        sauce) plus fresh or powdered garlic or ketchup/Hoisin
                        sauce blend or 2 tbs tomato paste with
                        2 tbs brown sugar and 2 tbs balsamic vinegar plus
                        2 tbs rice or wine vinegar plus a tsp of fresh minced 
                        or powdered ginger (fresh is best!),  Blend well. 

                       

Preparation:  Carefully fold all the upper listed ingredients together in the mixing bowl.  If you use your hands, the body temperature warmth will compromise the texture of the meat - so as much as I love to use my hands, a fork or potato masher may be the best tool.  If you choose to use your hands, just be sure to mix quickly and pretty thoroughly – so stay within your comfort level.  Replacing the blended and ready meat to the cooler/refrigerator would be a good idea until it is once again quite cool and the fats are re-established firmly within the protein.  Place the mixed meat mass on the side of sheet pan or on a clean cutting board to shape into a loaf of your choice of shape (hey, the state of Texas is a favorite with some of my friends here).  Place the slices of firmed dry bread together in a single layer on the middle of the sheet pan and carefully move the shaped loaf onto the bread slices.  The idea of elevating the meat is for the fats and greases to drain from the cooking meatloaf instead of it all simmering in the fats while cooking, therefore making a better-textured and less oily loaf.  The idea also is to discard the bread slices after – good luck with that.

Bake for a good hour maybe an hour and a quarter, depending on your additions, but test with a quick-read instant thermometer in the innermost section to read at least about 150-160̊ for a range of just barely leaving pink to well done.  The topping sauce may be slathered on at the onset for a crusty finish, or about twenty minutes prior to finish, for a softer crust surface.

Options:  The loaf may be taken around the world by associating flavorings.  For an Asian bent, try adding a tsp of ‘five spice blend’, a few diced uncooked fresh green onions, a can of diced up drained water chestnuts to the meat portion, and a tsp more ginger in the third topper sauce option.  Go to Italy with the sage upped to 1 tsp, with also a tsp of minced fresh rosemary and lemon zest.  Top with marinara sauce.  For a Continental feel, add cooled cooked bacon bits (about half a pound pre-cooked) and a quarter pound of grated cheese (cheddar, Swiss, emmental, etc) and top with cheese sauce or gravy on serving.  For a South of the Border direction, add about a quarter cup each sweet corn and diced mild chiles (canned is great) to the pulsed vegetable relish before sauteeing.  Fold in fresh chopped cilantro into the final corporate blend before shaping.  Top or serve with enchilada sauce (canned, again ok, or homemade).

Me? My fave is any of the above with a huge dollop of mashed potatoes and all smothered in gravy. 

But what I really like, oh yes, is the next day - cool, sliced, and plopped comfortably between a couple of slices of a great pumpernickel or rye, with a bit of mayo and catsup and mustard (spicy type) - and a few slices of crunchy, sweet red onion, maybe a few rounds of tomato or lettuce, but it's the wonderful leftover meatloaf that carries this one - what a sandwich - soooo good!

FRIED CHICKEN

  

Ah, fried chicken.  More men have been lured into matrimony by this sumptuous food, I’d say, over most any other prepared dish.  It is a bite of miraculous deliciousness – hot, steaming and crunchy -- with mashed potatoes and gravy – oh, my!  It also fares excellently chilled or room temperature starring in a picnic along with potato or macaroni salad and iced cold drinks and watermelon.  Most folks have been hit full throttle from all sides by a discerning cook, indoors and out, with this time-honored dish.

And we’re not just talking romantic relationships here either.  Fried chicken has been used to woo the mechanic or plumber into a good understanding, as well as babysitters and the kids’ tutors.  Bowling teams and office committees have elected their leaders based on the chicken brought to Memorial Day picnics.  This is serious stuff.

The same preparation style as for the fish is ideal for fried chicken as well.  Chicken must be cooked through, but not dried out, so careful knowledge of chicken parts certainly helps.  White meat pieces cook faster than dark meat parts.  The meat in dark meat parts is structured more densely (muscular), being more fibrous and protein filled – therefore requiring additional heat time to bring to done.  The density of the chicken over fish requires also a longer marinating period, usually several hours to overnight – even a day.  There are many options with this dish.

The crust or fried skin is a huge contributor to flavor, texture and aroma.  Some folks remove the skin and prepare the parts as if skin were still attached, which tastes wonderfully fine.  Some folks prefer a thick and crisp covering on the fowl.  Others prefer a lighter cover, with a pleasant crunch, not a crackle.  To obtain the thick crackle, the pieces are usually twice dipped/dredged in the buttermilk and/or egg liquid and then the flour or flour/crunch material.  Conversely, my mom just lightly rolled the moist chicken pieces in herbed//spiced flour and fried it to perfection.  I’ve had chicken pieces that were quite heavy on the coating and eating the chicken was more of an endurance objective with so much crispy layers to eat through first.  And then I’ve also had chicken where there was a baked sensation, with no big ‘crunch’ at all.  Both were delicious.  Your preference is what you should create.

The nature of the buttermilk coating (low fat is your best option) makes a good ‘glue’ for the flour or other coatings.  The buttermilk may be left thick or most of it may be shaken/dabbed off.  One coat of flavored flour may be all that is preferred, or a double dip if desired.  Some cooks add crunch materials to the flour (only a fourth of the flour amount) – such as corn meal, crushed cereal (Corn Flakes is the favorite), crushed potato chips (thicker chips is best, like the ruffled type), and crushed pretzels.  These are a delicious option, but why not fry a bit more adventurously and try crushed Rye Crisp, Shredded Wheat, Wheat Thins, wheat germ and/or Panko bread crumbs with your flour? 

If you’ve purchased deep fried chicken in the fast food or market presentations, you’ll find the flavor quite lovely, yet in eating, the skin slides off in one huge bite-full.  This is because these chicken preparations are most likely deep fried and/or pressure cooked, and this mode of immersion frying completely envelopes the chicken pieces in high heat all at once, not allowing air/steam to escape from between the meat and the skin.  The expansion of the air/steam acts like blowing up a balloon, pushing the skin away from the flesh as it crisps it. Home-cooked pieces are usually fried one side at a time in a pan as opposed to deep fried or pressure cooked, allowing the steam/air to escape from the opposite ‘up’ side, and the skin is able to bond with the meat.  The down side to this method is a longer cooking time, and usually a barely darker center mark on each side due to longer contact with the frying pan itself, but that is about it.

Here’s an option – my favorite – you might consider trying:

Either cut the fowl yourself into ten pieces (breasts in half –4, wings –2, thighs –2, legs –2, with back/tail and ribcage either saved for stock or fried along with the parts) or purchase your favorite pieces FRESH at the market.  Find out from your butcher the market’s timing and rotation of their fresh chicken offerings.  Rinse and dry well before seasoning.

I opt to first sprinkle my version of my ‘house blend spice’ – a mix of equal parts dry powdered mustard, salt, paprika  (sweet or smoked, your call) and garlic powder.  Let set on surface of covered pieces under plastic wrap, or in a well sealed zip-lock bag(s), at least one hour in fridge.  After that 'dry' marinade time, to these spiced pieces then add about one pint to one quart (to cover and coat) of buttermilk plus one-quarter cup or so of dry sherry or dry white wine (as you prefer) back into the zip-lock bag.  Marinate the cut pieces chilled for three hours to overnight (plan ahead, overnight is best). 

Remove from chill for frying and allow to come to room temperature.  Carefully shake off as much liquid as possible over the sink and dab onto a paper towel quickly and then lay onto a wire rack to air dry just a bit more, as with the fish.  If you have the notion to add more dry spices to the ‘sticky’ chicken pieces, this is a good time.  Rich ground spices work well like more spice blend (the powdered mustard, paprika and garlic – but then also consider ground ginger, thyme, cayenne and powdered onion, but I insist, be gentle).  Also considered would be the small whole seed/berry flavorings like caraway, sesame, dill, celery, and mustard (they won’t survive the normal time for frying, so the chicken will need to fry cook till the outer skin is golden then the interior finished in the oven), and of course, fresh ground pepper.  Smell your choice of herbs, spices and other flavorings and let your knowledge of blendings and taste-history guide you.  I’ve said this for the fish, and also again here.  

In a broad dish, set a cup at a time of flour mixed well with a quarter-cup of cornstarch, corn flour or rice flour and a hefty pinch of salt.  Carefully dust the moist herbed/spiced pieces in the flour and return to the rack while preparing the pan, let set until the flour coating appears almost like soft, dry, bumpy dough.  Use a heavy, large (12 inch or larger) cast iron skillet to disperse the heat evenly.  Many cooks (including my mom) also opt to use vegetable shortening instead of oil.  The claim was that this brought an even and unflavored heat better to the meat and skin.  I have to agree, but a safer option is to blend the shortening with peanut, grape seed or canola oil, making it more reliable, high heat  resistant and safe.  Heat shortening to medium hot (about 370° max) and place the pieces skin-side down into the oil, nestled together into a non-crowded pattern (breasts not yet), and when finished, the oil should come at least halfway up the pieces and the temperature should now read about 320°.  Adjust the flame to maintain this lower heat, lower but still hot enough to keep the chicken from absorbing the fat.  I’d rather fry chicken a bit ‘low and slow’ (for frying standards) than to blast it done rapidly. After about the initial one or two minutes, arrange the shrinking pieces toward the center and add the breasts somewhere on the outer circumference of the pan.  Cook for about six to eight more minutes, depending on the size of the pieces (when the pieces are a rich mahogany golden brown on this side), then turn.   If for some reason the middle pieces are darkening too fast, then adjust the heat and rotate with the outer pieces.  Should you have a smaller pan, then fry the pieces in two batches, but allow the oil to return to the original 370° before dropping the second batch in.

Covering the pan will slightly soften the ultimate skin ‘crunch’, but will better moderate the spatter, and contain and even-out the heat.  I recommend covering only during the first side cooking, and only the first half of the second side to allow steam to escape, and crunch to happen.  The rest of the time, invest in those spatter guards of metal mesh.  They’re perfect. 

When done – cooking at about eight to ten minutes on a side – clear juices will emerge from the pieces when pierced with a fork, or an instant read thermometer inserted into the mid of the fattest part of the thigh (not touching a bone) will read 160-170° -- if the thighs are done, then all the other pieces will be too.  Remove to a wire rack placed just over paper towels/paper bags that will catch the excess oil but not smother the surfaces.  This contact ‘smother’ will mush up the crunchy skin you worked so hard to get.

Option:  Try adding crunch additives to the battered surface of the chicken such as a sprinkling of corn meal, crushed nuts or small seeds (pistachio, hazelnuts, almonds, pecans, cashews, macadamia, or peanuts etc - or sesame, pumpkin seed, sesame seed, celery, caraway, poppyseeds etc); or even more delicate - grated Parmesan, asiago, pecorino etc over the flour (perhaps also with the seed coatings) - but because of the delicate nature of these additives, fry till golden, but the inner chicken flesh won’t be cooked completely, and finish cooking by baking on a rack set in a sheet pan in a 350° oven (about fifteen to twenty minutes).

 

If you don’t have chicken gravy for the mashed potatoes or to slather last minute on the chicken, then you’ve forgotten half the meal.  Yessir!

CHICKEN GRAVY

Remove cooling pan from fire and carefully pour off ninety-five percent of the cooled fat into a safe container.  What is left in the pan should be many islands of those mahogany colored flour and skin bits and a tablespoon or two of oil.  Cooking low and slow also allows these bits to remain browned without becoming charcoal by the end of the frying.  Should you have any saved chicken, duck or turkey fat from other roastings or preparations, this is the perfect use here. 

Replace to heat, a medium to medium-hot range.  Add now two more tablespoons butter, oil, and/or heart-healthy butter-flavored non-water-based margarine and/or your treasured duck/chicken fat.  Allow butter/margarine/fat to simmer a moment or two to remove any waters that are in them.  Add about a quarter cup of AP flour (potato or rice flour may be considered, but has little gluten and makes a less elastic gravy) and gently cook/stir to absorb all the oils, turning the flour a light brown color.  Add a teaspoon each of garlic powder, dry ground mustard, dry powdered thyme (crushed in the palm of the hand), and salt in along with the flour as well (or a heaping tbs of my ‘spice rub’).  A pinch of cayenne or hot sauce here is great too.  Stir well into the mash, then add a splash of dry white wine or sherry and let work a bit till smooth, then half a can of evaporated milk and whisk until thickened and all lumps have been whisked out.  At this point consider either chicken stock/broth, the rest of the canned milk plus regular milk as needed or all three may be added bit by bit until the gravy becomes a thick cream consistency – and about a quart in volume.  A quarter cup of heavy cream at the last is always a tasty option, but you may find that the gravy has a rich enough ‘feel’ without it (just helping you get used to safer eats).  The gravy will thicken even more as it cools to the table so don’t finish it stovetop as you ultimately want it.  Bring to a boil, then down to a simmer and hold, or remove.  Test, then salt and pepper to taste. 

No potatoes?  Try a slice of hearty, crusty bread or a bed of rice, polenta, cous cous or quinoa – or leftover vegetables and/or pasta. 

Remember to warm the gravy dish or gravy boat first with very hot tap water, poured out – it’ll keep the gravy at a better temperature longer. 

Ah, chicken gravy, liquid gold!