Classic belly-warmers

GOOD OL’ MEATLOAF  

this three pound loaf feeds four to six

My mom wasn’t the only one influential with my cooking understanding.  Dad was a more realist mentality, cooking the easiest and most efficient way, with as many short-cuts as possible.  BBQ, fried eggs and toast, carving turkey and meatloaf were his areas of expertise.  Hey, I didn’t complain, he had good ideas, which usually came from his golfing buddies and friends (which meant they were tested throughout our neighborhood first).

For his meatloaf, he swore by mixing hamburger with Jimmy Dean prepared sausage.  He said the flavors, seasonings and fat flavor were already included in the mix, and all you had to do was cook it.  Made sense.  I’ll take his basic recipe and ramp it up just a bit.  Personally, I love vegetables and bacon in my meatloaf.  That said, it’s about the same as his otherwise.  For a sauce topper, most folks use ketchup, but Dad loved Lowry’s ‘Sweet and Sour’ BBQ sauce (bottled), which he’d mix with garlic powder and ketchup.  It works for me!

Preheat oven to 375̊

Tools:  baking sheet or broad casserole pan/dish, large mixing bowl, food processor, saute pan, cutting board/knife

Prep:  rough chop one stalk celery, one small peeled onion, half a pound mushrooms, several cloves garlic, a small carrot – and place in the food processor (they can be hand-diced, but it’s a bit of work) and pulse to a large ‘relish’.  Gently saute on medium to medium-high, in a combo of butter and oil, with a sprinkling of salt and sugar till rendered soft and beginning to caramelize nicely – about ten to fifteen minutes.  Next add the dried spices and herbs and let ‘bloom’ - or come to a good aroma.  Remove and let cool (very important - raw vegetables will NOT cook to a nice finish inside the loaf).

In the mixing bowl, blend two pounds cold ground chuck or sirloin with a half pound ‘log’ of your favorite breakfast prepared uncooked sausage blend.  Use a fork to slice/mash/fold together without bringing it up in heat.  Leave it all ‘open’ in a crumble for later ingredient mixing.

Ingredients     

            2     lbs medium ground chuck, sirloin, cold

                         (no more than 20% fat, 15% is best)

            ½    lb prepared breakfast type ground sausage blend

                         (like the aforementioned Jimmy Dean)

            1     tsp each ground dried basil, oregano, thyme

            ½    tsp dried ground sage

1       egg, beaten

1       tbs Worcestershire sauce (mixed with egg)

            1     tsp hot sauce  or ¼ tsp cayenne, (more if you like),

                        mixed with Worcestershire sauce and egg

            Splash milk (mixed with egg, Worcestershire sauce

                        and hot sauce)

            ¼    cup unseasoned bread crumbs (try homemade: 
                        grind two slices bread in processor till med-fine 
                        crumb, saute gently in med-hot pan and a tiny bit 
                        of oil/butter till lightly golden or bake several slices

of bread in a cool (200̊ F) oven till very firm and

crisp, barely colored, about 20 to 30 minutes. 

Break up into chunks and grind in the processor

till a med-fine crumb and use as recipe crumbs

instead of store-bought, saving the rest in a well-

sealed container)            

            The prepared veggie relish, cooled
           ½    tsp each salt and pepper

          4-6    slices oven-firmed bread slices (like mentioned above),
                        unbroken

              TOPPING SAUCES

           ½    cup favorite BBQ sauce/ketchup blend (like the

                        aforementioned Lowry’s ‘Sweet and Sour’ BBQ

                        sauce) plus fresh or powdered garlic or ketchup/Hoisin
                        sauce blend or 2 tbs tomato paste with
                        2 tbs brown sugar and 2 tbs balsamic vinegar plus
                        2 tbs rice or wine vinegar plus a tsp of fresh minced 
                        or powdered ginger (fresh is best!),  Blend well. 

                       

Preparation:  Carefully fold all the upper listed ingredients together in the mixing bowl.  If you use your hands, the body temperature warmth will compromise the texture of the meat - so as much as I love to use my hands, a fork or potato masher may be the best tool.  If you choose to use your hands, just be sure to mix quickly and pretty thoroughly – so stay within your comfort level.  Replacing the blended and ready meat to the cooler/refrigerator would be a good idea until it is once again quite cool and the fats are re-established firmly within the protein.  Place the mixed meat mass on the side of sheet pan or on a clean cutting board to shape into a loaf of your choice of shape (hey, the state of Texas is a favorite with some of my friends here).  Place the slices of firmed dry bread together in a single layer on the middle of the sheet pan and carefully move the shaped loaf onto the bread slices.  The idea of elevating the meat is for the fats and greases to drain from the cooking meatloaf instead of it all simmering in the fats while cooking, therefore making a better-textured and less oily loaf.  The idea also is to discard the bread slices after – good luck with that.

Bake for a good hour maybe an hour and a quarter, depending on your additions, but test with a quick-read instant thermometer in the innermost section to read at least about 150-160̊ for a range of just barely leaving pink to well done.  The topping sauce may be slathered on at the onset for a crusty finish, or about twenty minutes prior to finish, for a softer crust surface.

Options:  The loaf may be taken around the world by associating flavorings.  For an Asian bent, try adding a tsp of ‘five spice blend’, a few diced uncooked fresh green onions, a can of diced up drained water chestnuts to the meat portion, and a tsp more ginger in the third topper sauce option.  Go to Italy with the sage upped to 1 tsp, with also a tsp of minced fresh rosemary and lemon zest.  Top with marinara sauce.  For a Continental feel, add cooled cooked bacon bits (about half a pound pre-cooked) and a quarter pound of grated cheese (cheddar, Swiss, emmental, etc) and top with cheese sauce or gravy on serving.  For a South of the Border direction, add about a quarter cup each sweet corn and diced mild chiles (canned is great) to the pulsed vegetable relish before sauteeing.  Fold in fresh chopped cilantro into the final corporate blend before shaping.  Top or serve with enchilada sauce (canned, again ok, or homemade).

Me? My fave is any of the above with a huge dollop of mashed potatoes and all smothered in gravy. 

But what I really like, oh yes, is the next day - cool, sliced, and plopped comfortably between a couple of slices of a great pumpernickel or rye, with a bit of mayo and catsup and mustard (spicy type) - and a few slices of crunchy, sweet red onion, maybe a few rounds of tomato or lettuce, but it's the wonderful leftover meatloaf that carries this one - what a sandwich - soooo good!

FRIED CHICKEN

  

Ah, fried chicken.  More men have been lured into matrimony by this sumptuous food, I’d say, over most any other prepared dish.  It is a bite of miraculous deliciousness – hot, steaming and crunchy -- with mashed potatoes and gravy – oh, my!  It also fares excellently chilled or room temperature starring in a picnic along with potato or macaroni salad and iced cold drinks and watermelon.  Most folks have been hit full throttle from all sides by a discerning cook, indoors and out, with this time-honored dish.

And we’re not just talking romantic relationships here either.  Fried chicken has been used to woo the mechanic or plumber into a good understanding, as well as babysitters and the kids’ tutors.  Bowling teams and office committees have elected their leaders based on the chicken brought to Memorial Day picnics.  This is serious stuff.

The same preparation style as for the fish is ideal for fried chicken as well.  Chicken must be cooked through, but not dried out, so careful knowledge of chicken parts certainly helps.  White meat pieces cook faster than dark meat parts.  The meat in dark meat parts is structured more densely (muscular), being more fibrous and protein filled – therefore requiring additional heat time to bring to done.  The density of the chicken over fish requires also a longer marinating period, usually several hours to overnight – even a day.  There are many options with this dish.

The crust or fried skin is a huge contributor to flavor, texture and aroma.  Some folks remove the skin and prepare the parts as if skin were still attached, which tastes wonderfully fine.  Some folks prefer a thick and crisp covering on the fowl.  Others prefer a lighter cover, with a pleasant crunch, not a crackle.  To obtain the thick crackle, the pieces are usually twice dipped/dredged in the buttermilk and/or egg liquid and then the flour or flour/crunch material.  Conversely, my mom just lightly rolled the moist chicken pieces in herbed//spiced flour and fried it to perfection.  I’ve had chicken pieces that were quite heavy on the coating and eating the chicken was more of an endurance objective with so much crispy layers to eat through first.  And then I’ve also had chicken where there was a baked sensation, with no big ‘crunch’ at all.  Both were delicious.  Your preference is what you should create.

The nature of the buttermilk coating (low fat is your best option) makes a good ‘glue’ for the flour or other coatings.  The buttermilk may be left thick or most of it may be shaken/dabbed off.  One coat of flavored flour may be all that is preferred, or a double dip if desired.  Some cooks add crunch materials to the flour (only a fourth of the flour amount) – such as corn meal, crushed cereal (Corn Flakes is the favorite), crushed potato chips (thicker chips is best, like the ruffled type), and crushed pretzels.  These are a delicious option, but why not fry a bit more adventurously and try crushed Rye Crisp, Shredded Wheat, Wheat Thins, wheat germ and/or Panko bread crumbs with your flour? 

If you’ve purchased deep fried chicken in the fast food or market presentations, you’ll find the flavor quite lovely, yet in eating, the skin slides off in one huge bite-full.  This is because these chicken preparations are most likely deep fried and/or pressure cooked, and this mode of immersion frying completely envelopes the chicken pieces in high heat all at once, not allowing air/steam to escape from between the meat and the skin.  The expansion of the air/steam acts like blowing up a balloon, pushing the skin away from the flesh as it crisps it. Home-cooked pieces are usually fried one side at a time in a pan as opposed to deep fried or pressure cooked, allowing the steam/air to escape from the opposite ‘up’ side, and the skin is able to bond with the meat.  The down side to this method is a longer cooking time, and usually a barely darker center mark on each side due to longer contact with the frying pan itself, but that is about it.

Here’s an option – my favorite – you might consider trying:

Either cut the fowl yourself into ten pieces (breasts in half –4, wings –2, thighs –2, legs –2, with back/tail and ribcage either saved for stock or fried along with the parts) or purchase your favorite pieces FRESH at the market.  Find out from your butcher the market’s timing and rotation of their fresh chicken offerings.  Rinse and dry well before seasoning.

I opt to first sprinkle my version of my ‘house blend spice’ – a mix of equal parts dry powdered mustard, salt, paprika  (sweet or smoked, your call) and garlic powder.  Let set on surface of covered pieces under plastic wrap, or in a well sealed zip-lock bag(s), at least one hour in fridge.  After that 'dry' marinade time, to these spiced pieces then add about one pint to one quart (to cover and coat) of buttermilk plus one-quarter cup or so of dry sherry or dry white wine (as you prefer) back into the zip-lock bag.  Marinate the cut pieces chilled for three hours to overnight (plan ahead, overnight is best). 

Remove from chill for frying and allow to come to room temperature.  Carefully shake off as much liquid as possible over the sink and dab onto a paper towel quickly and then lay onto a wire rack to air dry just a bit more, as with the fish.  If you have the notion to add more dry spices to the ‘sticky’ chicken pieces, this is a good time.  Rich ground spices work well like more spice blend (the powdered mustard, paprika and garlic – but then also consider ground ginger, thyme, cayenne and powdered onion, but I insist, be gentle).  Also considered would be the small whole seed/berry flavorings like caraway, sesame, dill, celery, and mustard (they won’t survive the normal time for frying, so the chicken will need to fry cook till the outer skin is golden then the interior finished in the oven), and of course, fresh ground pepper.  Smell your choice of herbs, spices and other flavorings and let your knowledge of blendings and taste-history guide you.  I’ve said this for the fish, and also again here.  

In a broad dish, set a cup at a time of flour mixed well with a quarter-cup of cornstarch, corn flour or rice flour and a hefty pinch of salt.  Carefully dust the moist herbed/spiced pieces in the flour and return to the rack while preparing the pan, let set until the flour coating appears almost like soft, dry, bumpy dough.  Use a heavy, large (12 inch or larger) cast iron skillet to disperse the heat evenly.  Many cooks (including my mom) also opt to use vegetable shortening instead of oil.  The claim was that this brought an even and unflavored heat better to the meat and skin.  I have to agree, but a safer option is to blend the shortening with peanut, grape seed or canola oil, making it more reliable, high heat  resistant and safe.  Heat shortening to medium hot (about 370° max) and place the pieces skin-side down into the oil, nestled together into a non-crowded pattern (breasts not yet), and when finished, the oil should come at least halfway up the pieces and the temperature should now read about 320°.  Adjust the flame to maintain this lower heat, lower but still hot enough to keep the chicken from absorbing the fat.  I’d rather fry chicken a bit ‘low and slow’ (for frying standards) than to blast it done rapidly. After about the initial one or two minutes, arrange the shrinking pieces toward the center and add the breasts somewhere on the outer circumference of the pan.  Cook for about six to eight more minutes, depending on the size of the pieces (when the pieces are a rich mahogany golden brown on this side), then turn.   If for some reason the middle pieces are darkening too fast, then adjust the heat and rotate with the outer pieces.  Should you have a smaller pan, then fry the pieces in two batches, but allow the oil to return to the original 370° before dropping the second batch in.

Covering the pan will slightly soften the ultimate skin ‘crunch’, but will better moderate the spatter, and contain and even-out the heat.  I recommend covering only during the first side cooking, and only the first half of the second side to allow steam to escape, and crunch to happen.  The rest of the time, invest in those spatter guards of metal mesh.  They’re perfect. 

When done – cooking at about eight to ten minutes on a side – clear juices will emerge from the pieces when pierced with a fork, or an instant read thermometer inserted into the mid of the fattest part of the thigh (not touching a bone) will read 160-170° -- if the thighs are done, then all the other pieces will be too.  Remove to a wire rack placed just over paper towels/paper bags that will catch the excess oil but not smother the surfaces.  This contact ‘smother’ will mush up the crunchy skin you worked so hard to get.

Option:  Try adding crunch additives to the battered surface of the chicken such as a sprinkling of corn meal, crushed nuts or small seeds (pistachio, hazelnuts, almonds, pecans, cashews, macadamia, or peanuts etc - or sesame, pumpkin seed, sesame seed, celery, caraway, poppyseeds etc); or even more delicate - grated Parmesan, asiago, pecorino etc over the flour (perhaps also with the seed coatings) - but because of the delicate nature of these additives, fry till golden, but the inner chicken flesh won’t be cooked completely, and finish cooking by baking on a rack set in a sheet pan in a 350° oven (about fifteen to twenty minutes).

 

If you don’t have chicken gravy for the mashed potatoes or to slather last minute on the chicken, then you’ve forgotten half the meal.  Yessir!

CHICKEN GRAVY

Remove cooling pan from fire and carefully pour off ninety-five percent of the cooled fat into a safe container.  What is left in the pan should be many islands of those mahogany colored flour and skin bits and a tablespoon or two of oil.  Cooking low and slow also allows these bits to remain browned without becoming charcoal by the end of the frying.  Should you have any saved chicken, duck or turkey fat from other roastings or preparations, this is the perfect use here. 

Replace to heat, a medium to medium-hot range.  Add now two more tablespoons butter, oil, and/or heart-healthy butter-flavored non-water-based margarine and/or your treasured duck/chicken fat.  Allow butter/margarine/fat to simmer a moment or two to remove any waters that are in them.  Add about a quarter cup of AP flour (potato or rice flour may be considered, but has little gluten and makes a less elastic gravy) and gently cook/stir to absorb all the oils, turning the flour a light brown color.  Add a teaspoon each of garlic powder, dry ground mustard, dry powdered thyme (crushed in the palm of the hand), and salt in along with the flour as well (or a heaping tbs of my ‘spice rub’).  A pinch of cayenne or hot sauce here is great too.  Stir well into the mash, then add a splash of dry white wine or sherry and let work a bit till smooth, then half a can of evaporated milk and whisk until thickened and all lumps have been whisked out.  At this point consider either chicken stock/broth, the rest of the canned milk plus regular milk as needed or all three may be added bit by bit until the gravy becomes a thick cream consistency – and about a quart in volume.  A quarter cup of heavy cream at the last is always a tasty option, but you may find that the gravy has a rich enough ‘feel’ without it (just helping you get used to safer eats).  The gravy will thicken even more as it cools to the table so don’t finish it stovetop as you ultimately want it.  Bring to a boil, then down to a simmer and hold, or remove.  Test, then salt and pepper to taste. 

No potatoes?  Try a slice of hearty, crusty bread or a bed of rice, polenta, cous cous or quinoa – or leftover vegetables and/or pasta. 

Remember to warm the gravy dish or gravy boat first with very hot tap water, poured out – it’ll keep the gravy at a better temperature longer. 

Ah, chicken gravy, liquid gold!

Translating red to green

GOING GREEN the other side,

CHILI VERDE

Although chili is basically described as meat stewed in a gravy sauce, which is waaay too simple to say, this is what makes this what it is.  The red version of chili is what most folks know and love, but the green version is not to be missed, a yin and yang kind of thing.

This recipe can be as complicated or as simple as you wish.  The meat may be marinated or not, or pre-cooked roasted chicken, turkey or roast beef/pork may be used – or no meat at all; the vegetable additives may be roasted or not.  You control the flavor and time, it’s great as a fast dish, but just you wait for the longer time version, as I seem to say a lot, it’s worth the effort.

Tools: cutting board, sheet pan/cookie sheet, stockpot, sauté pan, food processor

Prep:  The meat is great marinated in the marinade given below.  You may also choose to do a dry rub.  I’ll offer both, and you give ‘em a shot and see what you think.  The beef or pork meat will have a great boost in flavor if marinated in whisky or tequila after being diced.  A no-meat dish can use root vegetables and/or firm tofu prepared similarly.  They may be sprinkled with my ‘home spice’ rub mix of equal parts of salt, paprika, dry powdered mustard and garlic powder for half an hour to two hours – and even then marinated in the liquor afterward if desired.  Either choice, simply cover and refrigerate for at least a few hours to overnight.  Roasting the tomatillos, tomatoes, onions, garlic and peppers will be the most delicious option to do as well.  Both these operations may be done up to a few days in advance and chilled.

Ingredients:

Marinade and meats:

3-4        pounds (or more if you like a meaty chili)
            pork shoulder, beef chuck roast or lamb
            shank or shoulder, in 1-2 inch cubes or 2-3 lbs
            turkey breast, roasted chicken, in rough
            cubes

              ½       pint whisky or tequila (1 cup - not top shelf, but a
                              mid-to-common range quality is fine)

               5       crushed garlic cloves

              ¼      cup flour

              ¼      cup canola or vegetable oil for browning

Your meat options are not necessarily any of the options given - chunks of a kielbasa or Spanish chorizo, Andouille and other firm sausages, left over lamb/pork chops come to mind; you may blend types of meats or choose not to use meat at all (caramelized firm tofu, root vegetables or squashes are great).  Trim raw meats of excess fats, gristle, bone, silver skin and cartilage – and cut into 1-2 inch chunks.  Marinate chuck, pork shoulder, lamb and/or turkey chunks as directed, if desired (prepared deli roasted chicken doesn’t need this step).  Drain well (reserve liquor and garlic), rinse, pat dry, then set meat chunks on rack to further dry but first salt and grind pepper.  Allow surface of meats to attain just barely a dry surface, while also coming to room temperature.  Coat in flour, pat off excess and sauté in oiled fry pan on high heat till brown, one layer at a time, until the meat cube surfaces are well browned on all sides (and excess fat removed in this process).  The meats that aren’t poultry will reduce in weight, so the final weights of ‘meat’ will be about the same.  The turkey need not be browned but lightly sautéed or braised (or even microwaved at 60-80%) to an underdone ‘set’, cubed and then all can be added into the early sauce to complete cooking in the braise.  Pour off and discard oil and fat (responsibly) from the pan, and deglaze with enough water, marinade, wine or stock to dissolve the bits, pour off and save.

Roasting ingredients:

2-3          medium small sized onions, skinned and
      quartered

8-10        Hatch, New Mexico, and/or poblano
            peppers, halved; with seeds, veins
            and stems removed                      

                      10-12      tomatillos, hulled, washed, halved

                          1        lb fresh roma type tomatoes, halved, seeded  

                                          or  1  14 oz can quality whole tomatoes,
                                          fire roasted presentation (not to be
                                          roasted with the other vegetables if
                                          chosen), drained

                       8-10      cloves garlic (about one bulb), peeled, whole
                                          or large diced

                        3-4       stalks celery, rough diced

                        1-2       smallish carrots, halved then rough diced 

                        1-2       tbs canola or vegetable oil

                       salt and pepper to taste

Place all the above vegetables on a flat sheet pan or cookie sheet.  Drizzle with oil and mix with hands to well-coat the pieces, spread to single layer, cut-side up, then salt and pepper.   Roast in 400-450̊ oven for about 20-30 minutes, or until darkened on the edges and tender (broiling at the very last may aid with the char, watch constantly with this step).  Remove all chunks and liquids to cool, except for the chile peppers, which you’ll replace to the pan, skin side up, and return to the oven to continue to roast under the broiler until well charred, for about five more minutes.  Remove and transfer to a paper bag and roll shut (or into a bowl and plastic-wrap cover).  Sweat the chiles for five to ten minutes, until the skin is loose and they have cooled enough to handle.  Gently scrape/peel the charred skin off the surface, leaving only minor darkened bits of skin here and there.  Process all the roasted vegetables and peppers, (plus canned roasted tomatoes if chosen), oils, and juices from the roasting in the food processor, and pulse to a coarse liquid mash.  Add a bit of water or broth only if needed to facilitate the blend.  Makes about one and a half to two quarts.

Simmering ingredients:

  ¼   lb or one package, salt pork or fat back,

             trimmed of skin, cut into ¼ inch dice

  3    tbs canola or vegetable oil

  1    quart (4 cups) beef, chicken or veal stock

             (if not homemade, boxed is best, check 

             sodium levels and preservatives)

 Reserved deglazing liquid

  2    medium onions, diced ½ inch

 The reclaimed marinade garlic, finely chopped or
             minced

1-2   tbs homemade chili powder (see red chili recipe)
             or quality store purchased

1-2   tbs quality green curry powder or paste, store
             purchased

  1    tbs cumin, or more as preferred (remember,

             it’s also in the chili powder)

  3-5   Serrano chiles, medium fine diced (optional)

    1    bunch cilantro, stems separated from stops. 

               Stems fine/medium chopped (optional)               

The processed pepper and tomatillo mash

 ½    tsp each salt and pepper, later adjust after
             finished

                        3-4   tbs Worcestershire sauce

   1-4   chipotlé chiles, medium fine diced,

               with adobo sauce (optional)

In large skillet, Dutch oven, or stockpot, carefully bring pork bits to fry at medium heat till just getting golden, rending some of the fat. In the rendered fat along with the pork, raise the heat to medium-high and add the onions and Serrano chiles, salt and pepper and continue the sauté.  As they tender, add the reclaimed garlic and allow it to begin to caramelize and join together with the onions and chiles.  Now add the oil to the fat and bring to heat, and carefully the chili powder, cumin and curry sprinkled over the hot oil and work with spatula or wooden spoon into the bits, stirring all the ingredients into the pan and heat well in the fats.  When the aroma rises, add the stock, stir well to blend and bring everything from the surface of the pan into the liquid, then stir in the green pepper mash, deglazing liquids, chopped cilantro stems, Worcestershire sauce, chipotle chiles, and bring to a simmer.  Stir in the meat chunks and return to a gentle simmer.  Maintain this stovetop simmer very carefully, covered, stirring regularly and scraping the bottom with a flat wooden spatula, adding liquids if necessary from time to time – or cover and place in 325̊ oven – either method for about 1 to 1½ hours, and work the meat bits apart into coarse shreds and small chunks.  Five minutes prior to finish, add the chopped cilantro and blend.

Serving toppers:  Shredded aged parmesan, aged cheddar (yellow or white), asiago, jack and/or Cotija cheeses; thin-sliced fresh scallions (white and green part) and small diced fresh sweet red onions (try Cipoline, a sweet Italian onion), fresh avocado chunks, corn chips, jalapeño nacho slices, sliced radishes, fresh chopped cilantro or parsley, fresh sweet corn kernels or the corn relish, sour cream or Greek yogurt, one or more of the great salsas in this book (Salsa Sorpresa, Plum Loco, salsa fresca, salsa verde and roja, Pico de Gallo) and never forget, lots of lime wedges to fresh-squeeze just before diving in.

Options:  Leave out the meat options, except for the flavoring pork bits if you wish, cut the broth amount in half, but prepare all the other ingredients and let simmer for at least twenty minutes.  Into this lovely ‘gravy’ braise your favorite prepared main course, like chicken, pork, duck, shellfish (lobster oh yes, crab, shrimp, scallops, abalone, clams, oysters, mussels and any other wonderful shellfish you can think of); make a different kind of pasta (Lasagna – just think!), rigatoni, shells, manicotti, spiral etc); or heat leftover cooked game parts, turkey legs, fried chicken, braised pot roast, pork chops – even better try the prepared pork shreds from the ‘pulled pork’ recipe . . . ah, just have at it. 

Choose to braise the meat/fish additions in the sauce to bring to heat – or present the pre-cooked, uncoated warm meats/fishes atop a generous steaming dish of this green deliciousness – with toppers over, for a more ‘formal’ presentation.

Going green never had it so good!

The side show

FRENCH FRIED POTATOES  

with garlic, vinegar and salt                                      for two

I can eat potatoes any way, shape or form, and have proven it on many an occasion.  And yes, I learned to make french fries in France.  I think we’ve got that by now.  Although you may not have known, we call them ‘french’ because of the ‘frenching’ stick-style method of cutting the potato, not because the French invented them.  But not to wax too Franco, the French do have the market cornered on ‘frites’ – pronounced ‘freets’.  It’s all in the twice-frying.  The first fry brings the cut fry to a limp state, mostly cooked interior, and drives out the moisture from the surface of the fry.  The first-fry batch is allowed to cool.  We’ve learned that drier elements fry up crisper, such as stale tortillas fry crisper than fresh.  Stale bread fries crunchier than fresh for croutons – and so on.  They still have that wonderful fluffy interior moisture, but the dry surface is what we’re aiming for.  With that in mind, the first-fry dries out the surface of the potato so that in the second-fry, the surface is able to fry crisper; while the inside steams to softly moist and delicious.  The two-texture fry is the best fry.  And that’s how it’s done.

In Paris, one of my favorite lunches was ‘frites and saucisse’ (freets and sow-seese). That’s fries and sausage to us.  They weren’t exactly as hard-driven on the food maintenance element as we are here, but the guy in the little stand had only one deep fryer and he’d drop the sausages in the oil along with the fries.  I really didn’t mind.  It was pure decadence.

When cooking fries for a group, the twice-fry method makes much more sense.  Cook all the fries in batches in the first fry to a limp yet still white stage.  Let cool.   There you are.  The second fry is considerably shorter, and it’s easier to fry multiple batches for a bunch of eager eaters when the time element between batch cooking and serving is shortened.

My favorite version of this is one I do for myself only once in a great while.  Especially when I’m coupling it with a big juicy home made ‘Mom’s’ burger.  My mouth still loves that stuff, but my older fat cells and arteries will beg to differ.

Tools:  fry or sauté pan, drain rack/paper towels/paper bags, cutting board

Ingredients:

            Oil – a good, clean, heat-capable oil such as
                        grape seed, peanut or canola is a good
                        choice, vegetable oil is less able of
                        taking the heat but will do

            2     big, clear and clean Yukon gold or russet
                        potatoes, cut in fry choice size (peeling
                        is your preference)

1     onion, peeled, halved top to bottom, and
                        half-moon sliced about a quarter inch wide

          4-6    cloves garlic, whole

vinegar – malt, wine, rice wine, champagne, sherry or
                        herb-flavored

large flake grain salt, such as sea or Kosher

ketchup

Preparation:  Cut the potatoes to the strip size of around a quarter of an inch or so, but no larger than about half by half inch, or wedge cut in sixths or eighths to a potato - the idea is to keep all the cut pieces about the same size for equal cooking.  Set planks/wedges in bowl of cold water while preparing everything else (may soak for hours, even from the day before - no longer - or just the time it takes to cut up all the spuds - at least a half hour).  This removes some of the surface starch, which will help crisp the outer part of the potato as well.  The longer the soak time, the 'lighter' the crisp that will result

In about a half-inch of oil, bring pan to mid hot (about 320°).  On one side of the pan, carefully place the potatoes (drained, rinsed and patted very dry before introducing to the oil) in a single layer.  On the other side of the pan, lay out the onions and garlic cloves.  Sauté and flip everything in the pan until the potatoes reach a limp stage, but still white.  Remove the pan from the heat, and remove just the potatoes from the pan to a paper towel briefly, and then to a rack.  From this point on, you can go to the store, watch a show on TV or make a phone call.  No hurry.  The potatoes are removed from the oil, so won’t absorb more oil as they cool.  The onions and garlic won’t absorb the oil at all.   When ready to serve, bring the pan back to a bit higher heat (about 370°), stir the onions and garlic well, and move to the side, then add the potatoes once again, flipping, and bringing them to golden crisp and done.  Remove all, drain on a rack just over paper towels, and salt (coarse salt) immediately (the hot oil 'melts' the salt mineral crystal grains into the potato surface).  When serving at the table, it’s potatoes/onions/garlic cloves (like candy) all together, sprinkle with your favorite vinegar (what do you think the base liquid is in ketchup?) – and only dip in ketchup if you think you need to.  I dare you.  OK, you're right, how can it be bad?

Options:  Lightly flour the dried soaked raw fry shapes with corn starch, fine corn meal (flour) or rice flour for a better crunch - and if feeling a bit decadent, then thinly batter after the flour coating before the second fry and give them a multi-textured X-crunch – and this batter can be plain (just flour and selzer water) or add chili powder or citrus zest or seeds etc.

Also, choosing flavorful veggies like zucchini spears; blanched asparagus spears; whole mushrooms; canned and drained hearts of palm,  baby corn and bamboo shoots; spears of eggplant etc. - all may be flour dusted then battered and fried as well, but only the one time.

Cooking options:  If frying isn’t your wish, you can boil the cut and soaked fries until tender, drain and dry, then place on a pre-heated sheet pan, in a very hot oven (400º-450º), spray with oil and sprinkle with salt, laying the cut fries out in a single layer (best if on a wire rack in the sheet pan).  Return to oven, and roasting for about fifteen to twenty-five minutes, or until crispy on the outside and fluffy and tender on the inside (carefully test one).  Flipping over half-way through helps with a consistent cooking and color, but isn't totally necessary, just keep an eye on them.

You may try the boiling first stage with the fries in a frying manner as well.  Boil till barely tender, dry well; fry the first fry till 'floppy', then the second fry till crisp.  it's all good!

Exotic fries:  Give it a try using sweet potatoes, yucca root, taro root and/or firm plantains (green or half ripe) – but cut much slimmer, more like ‘shoestring’ – and because of their increased sugars, fry more gently on the first fry but a bit longer duration till limp, and bring just to crisp on the second fry.  Sprinkle with coarse salt just out of the oil.   Yowza!

Toppers:  Oh, do you really want to know?  White gravy (béchamel) with bacon or sausage bits, chicken and oink gravies; red or green chili - and even better with cheese, diced red and/or green onions, peppers and a squeeze of lime; melted cheese(s); guacamole and other salsas; marinara sauce; tartar sauce; Greek yogurt / tzatziki sauce; fondue  . . . am I bad enough yet? 

ONION RINGS

Some time ago, I remodeled, designed and eventually ran the floor of a little café in San Diego, where one of the best sellers on the menu was the onion rings ‘loaf’.  The rings were cut thin, coated, and fried in the deep fryer basket.  When done and turned out, they resembled a loaf of bread, sorta.  They were the most delicious onion rings I’ve ever had.  I much prefer that shape to the fatter rings, but everyone has their preference.  My only dislike is when one takes a bite from the larger ring and the entire onion slides from the crust and hangs on your chin, but some like that.  The thinner version does have an advantage against this munching sloppiness.   Plus you can shove more in your mouth at one time.

Use large, firm, and clean onions of your choice.  The onion will sweeten in the cooking process, so a naturally sweet onion only ups that option a bit.  The basic heartiness of the onion is the main basis, and the quality of the type of onion runs a close second.  Cut your slices in the thickness that you prefer, and separate the rings.  The cooking process is best at deep-frying, but not everyone has this type of frying available in the kitchen (see below).  Like with chicken, vegetable shortening is a good frying agent, but also peanut oil, and to the last option, I’d say canola – or a mix of these.   Vegetable oil is ok, but hasn’t the fortitude to stand up to long and hot frying as the other oils do.  Either way, an inch deep is your best non-professional bet, and this can be accomplished in a good, sturdy cast iron skillet or frying pan.  A few rings at a time, salted then drained well, and kept warm in a low oven and you’re set.

The ring prep is a simple flour dredge, or it is that plus up to three steps:  A flour dredge on the fresh cut rings; plus a liquid ‘batter’ for crust base if you like; and a final flour crust dredge before the dip in 350°-370° oil (it will drop to 350° when cooking begins).  The batter for adhering the crust would be as with the chicken and fish, buttermilk.  Add an egg for adhesion (the onion is a bit slicker than a protein surface.  The first step would be a simple flour dusting (you can stop here and fry), or as a preparation for the batter.  Second, the batter; and third, a final flour for crust.  That final can be varied, and can change with your moods.  The base is wheat flour, but add a quarter the amount of the wheat flour with cornstarch or even potato, corn or rice flour for a good crunch enhancement, and all with a half teaspoon of salt and baking powder.  To this a particle crunch addition may be added, if desired, just to up the fun a bit.  We can try so many delicious things that we like to eat anyway, and most likely have in the pantry.  Crush up any of these and add only a quarter of a cup into the flour mix:  Soda crackers, Corn Flakes, Wheat thins, wheat germ, Panko bread crumbs, potato flakes, Rye Crisp, potato chips, sesame seeds, onion seeds, dill seeds, Butter crackers, grated hard/aged cheeses and on and on.

Dippers are just as varied, but my preference is Bleu cheese dressing.  But the cilantro cream sauce (in this book), or the usual ranch dressing or thousand island are fine, or as with fries, the aforementioned tartar sauce.  So fine.

Options:  Many foods are worth trying, like asparagus spears, bell and pepper slices, zucchini spears/coins, sliced green tomatoes, mushrooms, baby corn . . . and dried/cured meat sticks, fresh shellfish, meat and poultry bits, you name it! 

Fry options:  Heat a sheet pan in a very hot oven (400º-450º), spray oil the pan, lay out the prepared rings in a single layer, then return to the oven to roast for about fifteen to twenty minutes, depending on the width of the rings.

GREEN SALAD

with sweet and heat                         serves four to six

Perhaps the healthiest and best tasting anything we can put in our mouths at the same time is FRESH produce.  And what better way to enjoy that intake than to eat a big, hearty salad every day if we can.  Our bodies will never complain, but again – let’s exercise moderation with what lovely oils and fats we pour over that healthy plateful.   Salads need not base on a ‘leafy green’, but one can certainly use corn, beets, beans/lentils/legumes, carrots, cucumbers, melons, squashes, fennel and/or tomatoes, for example – alone or paired or combined, even without ‘lettuce’ to make it a ‘salad’.

On the list of things to do with the Salsa Sorpresa here in this book I have included the use of the salsa for a salad dressing ingredient.  But bear in mind, it’s the concept as much as the recipe I want to get across.  The salsa is a mid-range spice, heat-wise, and when coupled with ‘cooler’ things such as cream cheese (which I’ll eat on dog biscuits) and other cheeses, buttermilk/sour cream, or any of the above salad suggestions, the heat element is certainly mitigated.  Plus we will have the long established ‘heat and sweet’ concept that works successfully in so many presentations.

To this, balance the slight heat of the salsa in the dressing with some sweet in the salad.

Vinaigrette Salad dressing:  A cruet of:  two-thirds extra virgin olive oil and one-third balsamic vinegar; extra virgin olive oil and wine, rice, sherry and/or champagne vinegar; or walnut or sesame oil lightly flavoring vegetable (or safflower, canola or peanut) oil with wine, rice, sherry and/or champagne vinegar – all are established perfect dressings as is, but for a gentle spike in heat and wonderful ‘what is that?’ taste – add a tablespoon or two of the Salsa Sorpresa.   In addition, any favorite existing dressing, bottled or home made – vinaigrette, thousand island, ranch, creamy Italian, creamy/ fresh Caesar, French, bleu cheese, Green goddess and so on – these also coupled with a portion of the Salsa Sorpresa will find a new place in flavor.

Screw lid jar dressing:  In a former mayo type jar (the size of a large coffee cup) or similar, put in something close to the following:  1/2 cup olive or quality vegetable/canola oil; 1/4 cup red wine vinegar; 1/4 cup (4 tbs) quality prepared mayo; squeeze of half a lemon; healthy pinch (1/2 tsp) each oregano, dill, rosemary, salt, fresh cracked papper; and several dashes hot sauce.  Perfect just like this.  But, as we know we can go on - to this, different flavors may be added such as 2-3 tbs grated Parmesan, fine chopped olives (black and/or green), dried onion flakes or fine diced shallot, fine diced sun-dried tomatoes (best if packed in oil); splash of balsamic vinegar; a minced anchovy fillet or a bit of paste, capers, 1-2 tsp sesame/caraway/poppy/celery seeds, the aforementioned Salsa Sorpresa and so on.  Shake well and keep in refrigeration for 1-2 months (it won't last that long)      

Basic salad:  foundation lettuce – leaf lettuce, iceberg, Boston bib, Romaine, and spinach as well as the ‘side-kick’ type greens like dandelion greens and roots, endive/frisée, arugula, mustard greens, and other ‘greens’ like escarole, mesclun, rocket, kale, baby bok choy, and so on. 

Alongside these we have the ‘spice’ greens that add accent, texture and spikes of flavor in a bite like radicchio, watercress, chicory, and green/spring onions/scallions.  At last we have the herbaceous flavor leaves such as basil, dill, cilantro, tarragon, mint, chives, parsley, fennel fronds and capers.  Sure, there’s more, but you get the concept.

Secondary vegetable ingredients:  We have the cool foundation salad leaf ingredients, now for the contrasting texture and flavor vegetable additives like tomatoes, celery, sweet onions (pickled and/or fresh), cucumbers (pickled and/or fresh), bell peppers, banana peppers, beans/legumes, squashes, baby corn, sweet corn, artichoke hearts (pickled or roasted), mung bean and alfalfa sprouts, beets, carrots, hearts of palm, corn, mushrooms (raw, pickled grilled, or canned straw), pickled okra, roasted eggplant dices, fennel bulb and pomegranate seeds.

Protein:  To add meat, as such, one could choose the obvious such as chicken, ham, steak or roast pork/bacon in slices/dices/planks.  Less obvious would be anchovies, sardines, herring, and other prepared or pickled or brined fishes, and always a great canned or fresh option of tuna, albacore or salmon.  Then we have (with great pleasure) fresh or fresh-frozen and thawed prepared shellfish like shrimp, crab, lobster, calamari, or scallops – EXCELLENT!   And the dairy – cubed, newer cheese offering (don’t go with shredded with this type of cheese, stay with small cubed/diced – Swiss, cheddar, jack, muenster, emmental etc and go from there) and eggs, as in hard boiled or mid-hard (thick gooey yolk) finished eggs, grated or sliced, diced or wedged or crumbled.  Tofu and edamame as a protein is always a nice texture and nutrition addition, whether as is, or sautéed or roasted with soy sauce, miso, garlic or other flavorings.

Beans (any and every kind) and nuts are a perfect protein source - fresh, dried and cooked, canned (rinsed) and/or pickled/brined.

The ‘sweet’:  To balance the heat, counter with the after-taste of cool in a sweet bite.  Examples from the above that qualify as sweet are:  mandarin oranges, sweet bell peppers (any color, taste test for sweetness), mild/sweet chile peppers, corn, fennel, apple dices, pear dices, halved seedless grapes, raisins, dried pomegranate seeds and cranberries, dried fruits, sweet onions and fresh pomegranate seeds.

Lastly, the ‘toppers’:  First we have the nut offering – mentioned many times (toasted pine nuts, almonds, walnuts, pumpkin, sesame, sunflower etc); grated or crumbly cheeses (Parmesan, Cotija, pecorino, stilton/Gorgonzola etc, feta, chevre, asiago); croutons, corn or tortilla chips, fresh fried potato or vegetable ‘straws’; and finally cream cheeses, goat and other new cheeses. 

How do I like my salad?  Well, one of my faves is really quite simple:  Romaine greens, diced up tomatoes, baby corn, deli cooked/peeled shrimp (or frozen that way and thawed) with an easy mayo and salsa sorpresa dressing – really good and refreshing!  

But do try mandarin orange segments and chopped walnuts together in any salad.  Munch happily!

PASTA/POTATO SALAD   
or with meats               served as a side for a small to medium sized group

You just can’t have fried chicken, baked ham or a meatloaf sandwich in a picnic fashion without these immortal side dishes.  The backside to all this is the fear of the raw egg (in mayonnaise) reaction to heat on that warm day, as well as other foods in the heat.  Packaged mayonnaises usually all have dealt with that issue by adding steaming vinegars and liquid flavors to the egg/mustard mix and securing the raw egg to a safe temperature while whipping the oil into the mix.  I very strongly suggest avoiding homemade mayonnaises for picnic options, unless you have the same method of controlling the raw egg to a safe temperature, but I wouldn’t risk it.  Another good option is to use a thickened (or Greek) yogurt, or other cultured cream or milk product.

The biggest complaint with potato and pasta salads is the fact that they’re sometimes too dry or ‘pasty’, or in the effort to rectify that, they’re too oily.  I hope to address both those issues, and give you a great tasting salad at the same time.  Plus, undercooked potatoes and pasta just don’t succeed at all in the final dish.  A lot of hard work can be ruined by this.  You must be sure they are perfect to the ‘mouth’.  I’ve had store bought and fine restaurant potato salads that aren’t completely cooked, and the result is amazingly disappointing. 

When pasta/potatoes segments are fresh boiled (or steamed), drained, and still hot – the starch structure is porous – and they absorb moisture quickly and easily.  Take advantage of this to impart moist flavor into the morsels, yet avoid the trapping of thinking that oil should be one of them – oil will only soak almost completely into the hot starch and lose most of its lubricating gift to the dish.

Meat salads are a wonderful way to have a more complete meal in this dish.  Plus the refreshing coolness is a plus with that summer picnic.  The difference is to use half the ‘sour’ element of either citrus juice or vinegar, and stay with more ‘gentle’ meat-appropriate herbs such as basil, tarragon, sage, thyme, dill or cilantro (fresh if at all possible).

Choose from the ingredients suggested (or go where you feel comfortable in other directions); remember that all the category options given here need not be used.  Go for those that give flavors and textures consistent with the dish.  Choose oils/fats that remain stable and flavorful and that are pleasantly textured at cold temperatures.   Make within a day or two of presentation.

As with the salad ingredients mentioned with sweet and spicy salads, these additives are basically the same. Just remembering the properties of pasta and the ingredient additives dice size (¼ to ¾ inch) will help you achieve your good taste and texture goal.  Following are an offering of basic but varied elements for a cool starch and/or meat salad, given as proportions, arrangements and textures.  Choose from this list, or create your own ingredient list, as the flavors and textures of other cultures can ‘translate’ very well with this ‘American’ dish, as they sound good to you.  I can think of Thai, Szechwan, Italian, Greek and Japanese texture and flavor ingredients not listed that would be amazing in such a salad.  Just do a little research, talk to your favorite restaurant or ethnic grocery store merchant and have fun.

Tools:  cutting board, mixing bowls, zip bags, saucepan/stockpot

Ingredients:

Potatoes – comprising 55-65% of the mass:  a 75-25% mix or so of ‘starch’ Yukon gold or russet, and ‘waxy’ new (white, red or rose), diced ½ to ¾ inch.   Steamed or simmered to tender and DONE, never ‘crunchy’ or ‘stiff’.  About a quarter to half a cup of the cooked potatoes may be mashed well to ‘creamy’ and blended with the dressing for texture and flavor.            and/or   

Pasta – comprising 55-65% of the mass:  Textured and/or formed to hold the dressing and finely chopped ingredients:   Tubular: elbow, penne, penne rigate, rigatoni, macaroni salad, elbow macaroni etc   Spiral:  short fusilli, rotini etc and/or Shaped:  farfalle (actually means ‘butterfly’, but we know it as ‘bowtie’), orzo (means ‘barley’, but looks like big rice), conchiglie, conchigliette (shell), radiatori (hollow, ridged), rotelli, rotelle (wagon wheel) etc.; and Stuffed:  tortellini, small ravioli, cappelletti etc.            and/or

Chicken, turkey, ham, crab, shrimp, lobster, mussels etc – comprising 50-60% of the mass:  If used in place of pasta or potatoes, or in addition with, may be the consideration for a chicken salad or other type as you wish.  Diced the pre-cooked, skinned and cooled meats to generous bite-sized portions.  For turkey or chicken, I see no wrong with dark as well as white meats, although some may feel ‘purist’ with white flesh only.

Vegetables/fruits/grains/nuts – comprising 20-30% of the mass: Fresh fully cooked, par-cooked (frozen and thawed or fresh braised) or raw: asparagus, bell peppers, sweet/mild heat peppers, sweet/red/green onions, leeks, shallots, celery, sweet corn, broccoli, fennel, carrots, mushrooms, tomatoes; fresh raw: cucumbers, jicama, celery root, firm apples, raisins - and avocados (added last); dried cherries, cranberries, grapes, apricots, pomegranates, apples, pineapples, mangos etc. and/or dried vegetables (most every kind offered, usually ‘freeze’ dried); nuts/seeds (almond, coconut, walnut, peanut, sesame, caraway, dill), and legumes/grains, usually canned, packaged or frozen: all color beans, soy, fava, string beans, chick peas/garbanzos, peas, lentils, rice, wild rice etc., fully cooked and cooled.

Marinated (along with their associated vinaigrette), or pickled/brined (drained well), comprising 15-20% of the mass:  artichoke hearts, okra, mushrooms, broccoli, peppers, carrots, cucumber, cauliflower, sun-dried tomatoes, eggplant, garlic, ginger, pepperoncini, ‘nacho’ rings, banana peppers, onions and cucumbers (recipes in this book), baby corn, straw mushrooms, hearts of palm, pitted green or black olives, beets, peppercorns, capers, roasted peppers, and pickles (sweet, dill, garlic, Kosher, bread and butter) etc.

Greens – comprising 10-15% of the mass:  lettuce shreds, sliced or torn romaine, Boston/butter (as a ‘bowl’ or diced), spinach, mustard greens, frisée/endive, arugula, escarole, mesclun, radicchio, etc. 

Flavoring meats and prepared dairy – comprising 5-10% of the mass:  dried hard salami, bacon bits, pepperoni and cured sausages, ham, beef; pickled/brined meats (pigs feet, corned beef and pastrami) and pickled/brined fish (anchovies, sardines, oysters/clams, herring)  -- pickled eggs and cheeses, hard-boiled eggs.  Finally, we have the whole cheese offering – we can go on for a while here – among them flavored cheeses like pepper jack, smoked cheeses, spiced cheeses – like smoked gouda, caraway or dill Havarti – but make sure the cheese is diced to no larger than half inch cube, max (and don’t grate the cheese, it ‘disappears’).

Herbal/spice – Fresh when at all possible to finish, dried applied at the onset: basil, tarragon, mint, chives, dill, parsley, marjoram, rosemary, fennel fronds, lavender, oregano, sage, carrot tops, cilantro/ cracked pepper, cloves, nutmeg, cardamom, sea/Kosher and flavored salts, etc

Aromatic – hot and mild peppers, pepper flakes, garlic, ginger, anchovies, capers, etc.

Dressing – Oils:  This time choose flavor:  Extra virgin olive oil;

                or base oils such as canola, safflower, soybean or

                flaxseed oils blended with flavor fats/oils such as

                rendered pork, duck or chicken fats, or flavored/

                infused oils such as truffle, roasted garlic, annatto/

                achiote, or porcini for example.  

   Mustards:  Dijon, German, Chinese, yellow, whole grain
            coarse, wasabi/horseradish etc.

    Flavorings: Soy, mirin, miso, oyster sauce, honey, fish sauce,

            citrus juice and zest (all kinds), curry, anchovies, finely

            diced shallots and/or garlic, nut butters, grated hard

            cheeses (Parmesan, Cotija etc), aged or fresh soft

            cheeses/ dairy (bleus, goats, Camembert, mascarpone/

            Neufchatel/ cream cheese, yogurt, sour cream/crème

            fraîche etc.), sesame or walnut oil etc.

             Vinegars:  Red or white wine, sherry, rice wine, apple cider,

                     champagne wine, balsamic, vermouth

             Mayonnaise:  Store bought, quality, full-bodied (may use ‘reduced

                     fat’ if desired, but not ‘non-fat’)

             The base: 1/3 the amount of mayo/oil each of buttermilk and/or

                     sour cream (a bit of cream cheese may be

                     used if the salad needs more body or richness).

Preparation:  Prepare the dressing in two parts.  The vinegar portion is prepared first: choose the vinegar(s); choose a mustard or mix of mustards and any dried herbs/spices and blend well.  For a pound of dry pasta, or 3-4 pounds of potatoes, use about a third to a half of a cup of vinegar (some prefer a more vinegary taste) with 1-3 heaping tablespoons of mustard (or with 2-3 pounds of meats, half the vinegar/mustard mix with the meats, and use rice or grape wine – the milder vinegars – as your choice) with your choice of dried herbs/spices.  Boil/steam the diced potatoes to soft yet firm, or prepare the pasta according to directions – go to ‘al dente’ for the pasta, or just past – and remove and drain well.  While still hot, place in bowl and dress with vinegar mix and toss gently and thoroughly and let it all cool.  When it reaches room temperature – or with the prepared diced (and now marinated) meats – add diced onion choices and dried herbs, mix lightly and cover with plastic wrap or store in large zip-lock bag and store/chill well in the refrigerator.  With the meats, marinate only a few hours max, till well chilled. 

In a mixing bowl, mix the oil part of the dressing:  ¾ cup of mayonnaise with ¼ cup of oil (or oils/fats mix), and 1/3 cup of sour cream, Greek yogurt and/or softened cream cheese for a rich base (and any mashed potato ‘cream’ if desired).   Lastly, 2-4 tbs of buttermilk will loosen and moisten it just right (don’t use with the meats). Add pickled/brined small-diced items like relishes, peppers, capers, chopped olives, diced artichoke hearts, diced pickled okra, sliced pickled jalapenos, diced apples, raisins, dried cranberries etc; and minced ingredients like anchovies, garlic, horseradish sauce or other sauces – then mix well and put in zip-lock bag, air squeezed out, and seal well and chill.  And yet, in still another zip-lock bag place all the larger diced ingredients and related marinating oils including vegetables, fruits, flavor meats, and dairy that you wish to have in the salad. 

Just prior to serving, unpack the starch and/or meats and sprinkle with a splash of vinegar water, and toss to loosen and fluff.   Mix all the chilled ingredients together in the large bowl and blend well along with the fresh herbs.  And the last, dice and fold in the delicate avocado, chopped egg or other softer items, if desired.  

This method allows for practical storage, and encourages the blending of the spices, herbs, flavors and aromas of the ingredients without the time for it all to ‘dry out’ or the reverse, to over-soak.

If making chicken or turkey salad, I’d also recommend definitely using a ‘moisture’ element to assist with the often felt ‘dry’ that the fowl may give in the salad  -- for a sweet-ish salad, using diced apples, seedless grapes (red or green, cut in half), mandarin orange segments, pineapple or grapefruit dices, flavored gelatin cubes etc.; or for a savory-ish salad, choosing moist diced vegetables such as pickled artichoke hearts, canned drained 3-bean salad beans, hearts of palm, olives/olive salad, jicama, pepperoncini, cucumbers, and relishes (zucchini relish is wonderful) etc.