In a stew

CIOPPINO

a fish gathering   
serves six to eight 

Cioppino (chuh-peen-oh) sounds really Italian.  Like Chop Suey sounds so Asian. 

Well, with all best intents, according to somewhat trustworthy lore, Cioppino started on the docks of San Francisco with all the fish mongers at their stalls ‘chipping in’ for the day’s market communal fish stew.  That became a song of sorts as purveyors often make, singing ‘chip-in-Oh!’ while soliciting for the fish sellers to contribute – which evolved to what we now know. 

Heat oven to 400°

Tools:  5 quart Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, rimmed sheet pan or cookie sheet, large fry/saute pan, mid-sized bowl

Prep:  Fresh or fresh thawed fish, cut to bite-sized or just larger.  Shell the shrimp (some choose to leave the tail on for a ‘handle’ but I find it inconvenient in soups and salads) – best if de-veined and butterflied (partially slit down the back to curl inside out when cooked - it makes a great ‘bite’ texture for shrimp).  Scrub the bi-shelled creatures' surfaces well of dirt and grit.  Some folks prep clams and oysters by placing the live shell creatures in a swirled bath of cool fresh water and a sprinkle of corn meal, which the creature exchanges for the grit it has in its interior (which takes about two hours to half a day).  When ‘bearding’ clams/oysters – the removal of the stringy, tough fibers near the hinge – do not do so until just ready to cook.  The removal of the ‘beard’ will begin the demise of the creature, and doing this any lengthy time in advance will definitely undermine the success of your dish. 

Overcooking is a big deal with fish as well.  Every effort against that malady is foremost in this recipe.

3-5 cloves garlic, peeled, medium-thin sliced
            (but grouped together single layer when roasting)

2    bell peppers (color your choice, red is sweetest),

cut into small bite-sized strips

2    small onions, halved pole to pole, cut off ends and peeled,

sliced in small wedges like an orange

2    medium carrots, small bite-sized diced

3-4 stalks celery, small bite-sized diced

1-3 peppers (jalapeno or Serrano) stemmed,

seeded, diced small
            AND/OR 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

1    smallish bulb fennel, sliced quarter-moons 

2    tbs olive oil

salt and pepper

3-4 lbs fish (fresh or fresh thawed!) your call – crab and lobster (pre-cooked, shelled), shrimp (peeled), scallops, oysters, clams, mussels, squid/calamari (cleaned), plus a good hearty white fish like cod, haddock, scrod, trout, tilapia, etc (diced 1-2 inch cubes).  If using shell/bivalve fish options like oysters, mussels and clams, at least double that specific amount in weight (you don’t eat those heavy shells!)

1   pkg salt pork or fatback, about 10-12 oz,

skin removed, rinsed well, diced ¼ inch

2-3  lbs tomatoes, diced medium small plus 1 cup broth,

or 1  28 oz can whole tomatoes, juice and all

1   cup dry white wine

2   quarts chicken stock and/or fish stock 

(watch sodiums and salts)

2   bottles clam juice

1   tsp oregano or 1  tbs  fresh minced

1   tsp dill or 1 tbs fresh minced

1   tsp thyme  or 1 tbs fresh minced
2   3-4 inch peel (color only, no white) orange peel

1   bay leaf

pinch saffron (optional but so nice)

1   tbs (splash) red wine, champagne or sherry vinegar

several glugs or ¼  cup brandy, Courvoisier, cognac,

Armagnac – optional but again so nice

fresh finely diced parsley and basil with just a tiny bit of
            fresh mint and rosemary

Preparation:  Place vegetable pieces in bowl, drizzle oil over, toss and cover all the bits.  Spread out on a baking sheet and salt and pepper.  Place in hot (400°) oven and roast for ten to fifteen minutes, flipping over halfway through.   Place the fish bits in the bowl and do the same oil drizzle and toss.  Remove hot sheet pan from oven and carefully relocate veggies to half of the pan, then place large fin-type fish pieces which are thicker on pan first.  Return to oven for 2-3 minutes, remove, then add shrimp, calamari and/or scallops in with the half-roasted vegetables and fish chunks – plus a fresh sprinkling of salt and pepper – and return to hot oven (could be reset to 'broil') for another four to six minutes (not flipping, watch carefully) until no longer translucent – lightly golden and just underdone (but definitely NOT overdone).

Meanwhile, in the cool stockpot or Dutch oven, add pork bits and bring both pan and bits to heat together.  When beginning to sizzle and color, add the vinegar and let sputter till almost dry, then add the dried spices/bay leaf stirring well, and let bloom a few minutes in the fats.  Next add the tomatoes, wine, clam juice and broth bringing to a bold simmer and adjust flame to support that simmer while carefully breaking apart the tomatoes.  Now add orange peels and reduce liquid content by a quarter to blend and strengthen flavors.  Next carefully add the clams, oysters and mussels.  Simmer gently, covered, while shellfish open and come to perfect done (around three-five minutes) – releasing their 'liquor' into the broth.  Now sprinkle over with fresh herbs if chosen.  When the roasted vegetables and fish in the oven have come ready (fish just under-done), remove and add to the tomato/shellfish mix (separate the garlic and mash well, then blend well with a bit of the broth in a cup and return to the stew) and bring to heat gently until all the shellfish have nicely finished cooking or opened (remove any shells that won’t).  Taste and adjust seasonings.
 

Lastly add the brandy and final fresh herbs, along with any pre-cooked fish (lobster, crab etc), simmering very softly just until you can’t stand it anymore (mostly residual heat to bring all to same heat level) – bring to the table – and serve in a generous bowl with a ‘knob’ of fresh sweet butter on top and a wedge or two of lemon on the side, along with the sourest, crustiest sourdough bread you can find.

Options: Potatoes or pasta may be added, but best if pre-cooked, and added at the final simmer (or in the case of pasta, served over at plating).   Cream always is welcome, but the richness of this dish doesn't require such a final heart confrontation.  But your likes can decide.

BEEF STEW 

Stroganoff meets Bourguignon     serves six to eight

I love both beef stroganoff and also beef bourguignon, so my bent way of thinking thought 'why not trying the two styles together?'  It may have been a long work-week, or a Saturday of wine tasting, I don’t know, but it worked out terrific.  Once upon a time I made beef stroganoff with pickles in it (I had read that this was a traditionally original addition), so with the idea that I love pickles with hamburgers, which is also a foundational beef taste, I gave it a shot.  I loved it.  So, you should too, just don’t overcook them.  Here’s that wild mix of traditions, I hope you like it as much as I did.  I just hope I can remember what I did!

Heat oven to mild heat 275-300°

Tools:  Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, saute/skillet pan

Ingredients:

3-4 lbs beef (chuck roast, top round, loin etc)

           trimmed of gristle, hard fat and/or silverskin,

           cut into bite-sized strips (1 x 2 x ¾)

¼   cup of my spice rub (equal parts – or 1 tbs each –

           paprika, powdered mustard, garlic powder, salt)

2    tsp ground pepper

1    tsp dried thyme

¼   cup flour

2    tbs oil (canola, peanut, vegetable, safflower)
2    tbs butter

2    cups (1 pint) dry red wine (burgundy, pinot noir, merlot)

1    pkg (about 8 oz) fatback/salt pork, trimmed

           of thick skin, rinsed, diced about ¼ inch

1    lb sliced mushrooms

2 medium-sized carrots, sliced at sharp diagonal, 
           then cut in half, lengthwise
1    lb pearl onions (pkg frozen, thawed is great)

1    tbs tomato paste

4    cups (1 quart) chicken or chicken/beef combined broth/stock
1    cup coffee, freshly brewed and strong

2    tbs Hoisin sauce
¼   cup rich fruit jelly - cherry, currant, grape etc.

¼   cup bread and butter pickle slices, cut

           into ‘matchstick’ strips, plus 1 tbs jar vinegar

3-4 green onions, both white and green parts, sliced medium-fine

¼   cup dry sherry    
½   package plain gelatin, bloomed/dissolved in sherry
splash cognac or balsamic vinegar

      1    cup sour cream, yogurt, Greek yogurt

Preparation:  Mix spice rub, pepper, thyme and flour in paper or zip lock bag.  Place meat bits in bag, puff of air and seal.  Shake till all the meat pieces are well covered and remove the bits, saving the left-over powder mix.  In large, broad-bottomed, coverable oven-safe pan (Dutch oven is perfect), heat oil and butter till water has simmered out of butter and just beginning to brown and place meat bits in single layer to sauté, flipping till all pieces are browned.  Cover the simmering meat bits in the wine, coffee and half the broth, bring back to a boil, reduce to a simmer and place in low heated oven, covered, for one and a half hours.  Check occasionally for dryness, stir it all up a bit, and add only tiny bits of broth or more wine if necessary.  The last half-hour, add the wine/gelatin mix.  Stir well.

While the meat is braising, in large cool skillet, place pork bits and bring both pan and pork to heat, until sizzling.  Stir occasionally till just beginning to brown all sides.  Add carrots and pearl onions and bring all to a nice golden, then add the tomato paste.  Allow the paste to brown a bit – stirring into the mass – then dust the leftover flour/herb mix over all the bits and stir into the fat briefly until aroma arises.  Add the mushrooms, Hoisin sauce, jelly and second half of the broth, carefully stir well, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer - simmering long enough to ensure good blending of the dry and wet ingredients and the tenderizing of the vegetables, and to reduce the liquids some (about ten to fifteen minutes), then remove from fire and hold.

At the end of the hour and a half, remove the covered meat from the oven, test for tenderness, and if satisfied - place on low-heated stovetop.  Combine the skillet mix into the braised meat, blend well and continue to heat gently for ten to fifteen minutes more.  Add the green onions, pickles, vinegar, and simmer for five minutes longer and add the liquor and/or balsamic vinegar.  Adjust seasonings and thickness if desired.  At serving add the sour cream/yogurt - the overall color is best if not blended in but rather dolloped over.

Options:  more veggies is never a bad idea.  Celery/celery root, potatoes, turnips, greens, peas (frozen at the last is easiest and best) and/or squash - and more - can always be considered for a greatly hearty stew, as your 'ear' thinks - or what you may have leftover!  

Serve over sturdy, flat, buttered noodles (homemade or dried) – or crushed butter-fried pre-baked (or boiled) potatoes – or in a tortilla – or on rice.  Hey, you decide.



CHICKEN GUISADA
(gee–sah–dah)
serves six to ten

Some folks get the term guisada mixed up with the term asada.  Well, basically - the first is meat prepared braised till very tender in a sauce or gravy, while asada is meat prepared on a grill or a dry heat preparation till caramelized and a great chew.  There, now you're fluent in Spanglish.

Stewed chicken, nothing new here – but this variety will make a nice surprise.  Use it as a filling for tacos, or even more continentally, stuffed in hollowed out breads, or in puff-pastry or pita shells, or with risotto or penne, or add to leftover soup, or humbly sopped on a rustic crust in one hand and hearty cheese in the other.

Tools:  stockpot, cutting board, frying or sauté pan

Prep:  There is now offered in most every supermarket out there a variety of chicken presentations in the frozen foods section.  Most helpful is the selection that offers individually frozen chicken parts – such as skinned, boneless thighs or breasts or tenders.

Other companion ingredients are vegetables and spices, so the creation is not difficult, and the rewards are huge.

Ingredients:    

            3-4   pounds frozen or fresh chicken pieces

            1½   lbs tomatoes (drained canned whole 28 oz,

                        or fresh), roughly diced

1     tbs dried crushed basil or ¼ cup fresh leaves,

          then chopped

             ¼   cup olive, grapeseed and/or canola oil           

1     lbs carrots diced, ½ to ¾ inch

3    stalks celery diced ½ to ¾ inch

2     medium onions diced ½ to ¾ inch

              2    small or one large mild green peppers, roasted,

                        peeled:  bell, poblano and/or New Mexico,

diced ½ to ¾ inch or 1 or 2   7oz canned mild

chiles (as you prefer), diced (peeling not absolutely 

necessary because of size of dice)

3     cloves garlic, chopped/minced fine

            1-2   jalapeños or Serranos, stemmed, seeded if desired,

                        chopped fine

1     tbs oregano
salt and pepper, to taste

Preparation:  In a large stockpot, place chicken parts (frozen or not) in lightly salted water, till just covering the chicken.  Add the basil and bring to boil, lower to simmer and cook covered until the chicken is done.  Remove from broth, allowing broth to continue at high heat, uncovered to reduce.  Let the chicken parts cool enough to remove skin and de-bone if necessary, and cut or tear into inch or so sized chunks.  Replace chicken to reduced broth, add the tomatoes and continue to cook, reduced to a simmer again – and encourage the meat fibers to ‘break up’ in construction, agitating with spoon or spatula or potato masher.  Simmer until the tomatoes have mostly broken down, the broth has considerably reduced and thickened (almost dissipated but very moist), and the chunks have tenderized to a shred.

Meanwhile, you have placed in a medium-hot sauté pan:  the oil, heated well, and added all the vegetables, cooking till tender, then add the garlic and oregano, a pinch of salt and pepper and have been sautéing these elements patiently at a medium light sizzle temperature until they are like candy – sweet, caramelized and just tender, about fifteen or twenty minutes (the time it took to prepare the chicken till ready).

Finally, carefully join the vegetables, spices, juices and oils with the simmered chicken.    You’ve created a masterpiece!

Options:  Try this folded in with, or just presented under, the green chile sauce (in this book) – wonderful together.

Add along with it:  diced or sliced fresh hot peppers, pickled peppers and onions, chopped cilantro, sautéed mushrooms, diced cherry peppers, diced olives (black and/or green), corn kernels, shredded cheese, grated radishes, sour cream or thickened yogurt. Try any of the above with:  A taco with queso fresco and shredded cabbage; with lettuce, fresh tomato and raw onion on a slice of crusty bread; like a hash, with cracked eggs baked on top; or as a stuffing for peppers, tomatoes, pork chops or pita. 

Anybody hungry?

More flavor translating

SCRAMBLED EGGS AND POOR MAN’S CHEESE

In Paris, on a day off while exploring a new neighborhood, I found a small café where I ordered a breakfast of eggs and ham (jambon) and fresh-baked bread.  I have to say these were the best eggs I’ve ever eaten, and there was nothing ‘fancy’ about them.  Fresh eggs, fresh sweet butter, fresh spices and herbs, fresh bread – that’s it.  Fresh is a huge ingredient of any dish.

In those budgetary days, I searched for ways to mitigate the pricey food options (like cheese) and still have a good hearty meal.  As with other translated recipes, I found that substituting cheese with bread chunks in my scrambled eggs to have a tasty and textural pleasantness, and to be a good idea -- as it was not only a great replacement, but was delicious on its own in spite of the reason.  Necessity being the mother of invention, I tried sautéing cubes of a good hearty bread that I had in the pantry, in butter and garlic.  The sautéed bread (don’t go all the way to ‘crisp’) made a good chewy mouth texture, while the butter flavor completely satisfied the richness.

Prep:  In a large sauté pan or skillet, place one or two tablespoons butter, margarine, heart healthy butter-flavored margarine and/or olive oil and fresh minced garlic to a gentle sizzle and remove any water in the fats.  Cube one or two slices of bread (crust removed or not as you prefer) in ½ - ¾ inch dice and place in hot fat and begin to sauté.  The bread will absorb the fat and take a softly crisp texture (not quite as far as ‘crouton’), while the surface is brought to a golden light crust on the cubes. 

In a bowl, beat four to six eggs (for two to three people) well with a splash or water, milk or canned evaporated milk and pour over the bread, garlic and butter in the hot pan, soaking them in the egg mix.  I like that my scrambled eggs have medium to large-ish curds, and not highly mixed to a small-grained curd as is sometimes found in mass-produced scrambled eggs.  To achieve this, stir the ingredients together right away, then let set.  Salt and pepper lightly.  After twenty or thirty seconds, with a flat bottomed spatula flipped upside down, gently scrape the eggs from the bottom of the pan like a bulldozer and push into mounds of varying sizes in the pan. After a second or two, flip to the wet sides and continue to sauté gently until the eggs appear no longer wet and runny, but ‘juicy’ moist, and remove from heat and quickly from the pan to serve.  The residual heat will finish cooking the eggs on the way to the table.  What started as a money-saving idea ended up being a great taste all its own.

Options:  Nothing beats the flavor of fresh eggs scrambled in fresh sweet butter and a fresh cracking of black pepper and salt, but if you wish to go for additions to those basics, give these suggestions a try:

           

            Fold in a choice of these pre-cooked,warm items three-quarters of the way through the cooking of the eggs:

                        Sliced mushrooms sautéed with fresh garlic and

                                sweet onions or shallots and a sprinkle of thyme

                        Fresh ripe tomatoes, diced with sautéed minced

                                jalapeños and cilantro (or canned such as

                                Rotel brand)

                        Water chestnuts and green onions (the white end,

                                lightly sautéed) with a splash of soy sauce and

                                green ends finely diced up on top

                        Broken up cooked bacon pieces (or fried diced cubes of

                                firm tofu) and fresh sliced spinach, with a pinch

                                of nutmeg with bits of cream cheese

                        Fresh-shredded meltable cheeses – cheddar, jack, pepper

                                jack, Edam, Swiss/Gruyère, Brie etc and herbs

                        Diced cooked/prepared sausages, kielbasa, chorizo, ham,

                                smoky links etc with a dusting of oregano

                   Bits of asparagus, sautéed onions and minced chives

                                plus toasted nuts

                        Leftover meats or vegetables, lightly sautéed to bring

                                to warm, shredded white cheddar

                        Sautéed or roasted shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams

                                and/or lobster with a bit of tarragon

                        Large-grated zucchini lightly sautéed with a bit of dill

                                and folded with dollops of Neufchatel

            Topping choices for the eggs:

                        Sour cream, crème fraiche, fromage blanc, Greek yogurt

                        Fresh grated dry/hard cheese -- Parmesan, Romano,
                                pecorino, Asiago; crumbled feta, Cotija etc

                        Guacamole or fresh sliced avocado

                        Bottled hot sauce – Thai chili paste, Tabasco, Cholula,
                                Louisiana hot sauce etc or pepper flakes

Any fresh chopped herb – parsley, thyme, rosemary,
        cilantro, oregano, basil, dill, tarragon, chives, green
        onions

                        Any fresh cream gravy (white or brown), white/cheese
                                sauce, nut sauce, hollandaise, salsa

                        Nuts – roasted chopped almonds, sesame seeds, sunflower
                                seeds, roasted pumpkin seeds, crushed peanuts

         Caviar

         Yes, and Cheese, hundreds to choose from.

           

For an extra bit of taste and texture, try the prepared eggs on a slice of buttered hearty toast or English muffin – a delicious and excellent ‘fast food’ (real food) meal on the go in one hand!   

BBQ WITH CITRUS                                                         

serves party of fifteen to twenty or so

Once again, we have that primal flame-cooked urge for our meat.  Smokey, hot, crusty and slightly sweet – all the base longings we’ve most likely pursued for eons.  We goop our fingers, have sauce up to our ears, and enjoy immensely every smeary, gooey, spicy moment of it.   That’s what most folks in the US think of the idea of BBQ.

I’ve enjoyed a little less gooey version that still has all the fun, but this time the idea of BBQ is not a tomato-based sauce.

In southern California, you can find the most amazing food in little ‘hole-in-the-wall’ places.  From one such place with a hand-painted sign of various words including ‘carnes’ in the delicatessen’s title, a friend took me to pick up some ‘carne asada’ (kar-nay ah-sah-dah), which at the time I had no idea what we were getting.  She took the marinated raw deli meat home and BBQ’ed it outside and served us dinner.  My mouth fainted.  It was absolutely perfect in my mind how meat should taste.  Tender, juicy -- yet I knew it was originally a skirt steak which should have been tough and dry, but here were tastes and flavors of citrus, other fruits, garlic and I didn’t know what – and it melted in my mouth.  It opened my eyes to what B-B-Q or barbacoa or barbe a queue could be all about.

My version here is one that I’ve used for parties, easy to make for a crowd, and tastes like I spent hours, but in fact spent very little time at all.  It seems more tropical, although Mexican does in fact include tropical in a big way.  This is my version based on that memorable day seeing the sign with the word ‘carnes’.

Tools:  BBQ or kitchen grill pan; large zip-lock storage bags; blender or food processor; cutting board; tongs

Prep:  The marinating meat will need time to, well, marinate.  Use a cheaper cut of meat, like the flank, hanger or skirt steak, blade chuck or brisket, and choose a similar meat cut offering if preparing pork:  A thinner cut, a fair melding of fat and meat, and less gristle or bone.  Cut the inch or less thick meat into strips (carving around the bone and gristle if present) about three quarters of an inch wide or as narrow as half an inch.  Shrimp is outrageously good, but be careful of overcooking – which is easy to do on the grill.  Skewering  'en masee' helps organize and keep them from falling between the rungs.  A larger size (20-25 per pound or larger) is the best thought.  If not 'right off the boat' fresh, then individually quick frozen (IQF) is your best bet.  What is 'fresh' in the display has been frozen and thawed, so your freshest choice is the IQF.  Thaw in the refrigerator overnite, or let submerge in warm water for a half hour, draining and refilling at least once.  Fish fillets work very well also if carefully handled.  If using chicken, freeze the raw meat for fifteen minutes, then cut the firmed flesh into the same sized strips.  The strips should be as long as you can cut them (as the intended presentation will be for a sandwich or taco) and long enough to rest easily across the grill rungs without falling through, so ‘butter-flying’ portions of chicken flesh lengthwise to increase length before cutting into strips is a great idea.

Place on hot grill with the marinade coating, which will definitely begin to caramelize rapidly.  Ideally, the slenderness of the strips will not allow enough sustained contact that could bring over-caramelization and burning.  The onions and peppers are sautéed separately, but are served tossed together with the meats at serving.

Ingredients: 

             1     2-3  pounds skirt, flank, hanger, brisket steak;

                           pork loin, chops, roast -- cut into ½ inch ‘French fry’
                           strips

             4     boneless, skinless chicken breasts, chilled firm and cut
                           lengthwise into same strips

          2-3    pounds raw shrimp (no smaller than the 26-30 count if
                          not skewering – check the size to your grill spacing)
                    tail-on or off and/or a mix of 2-3 pounds fish fillets
                          (cod, haddock, catfish, snapper, halibut, trout, tilapia,
                          swordfish, salmon etc) and/or calamari, abalone,
                          oysters (en brochette) or lobster

          1     large container, 16 oz frozen orange juice concentrate,
                          thawed

             1     can 12 oz papaya nectar drink, or the real fresh juice
                          if you can find it -- optional, but great if obtainable 
                    (papaya is a natural meat tenderizer) -- if
                          un-obtainable, use one can 12 oz guava nectar

             1     cup apple cider vinegar

          4-6     limes, zest and juice (zest first, then squeeze the juice –

                          about ½ cup juice, 2-3 tbs zest)

          2-3     small sweet onions/cipollini, fresh scallions, or Vidalia
                          type, peeled and rough chopped

         3-5     cloves garlic

             1     thumb-tip sized piece of peeled ginger, fine chopped
                          or grated

            ½     tsp cayenne pepper

            ½     tsp each oregano, thyme and rosemary, dried

            ¼     tsp (tiny pinch) each cloves, cinnamon, and allspice          
          2     tsp each salt and fresh ground pepper

          1-2    jalapeño, Serrano, habañero peppers (optional – your
                         choice for heat and flavor), stemmed, seeded, veined

                         or 1-2 chipotle chiles (smoked, dried jalapeño chiles,
                         in sauce) diced, for a smoky addition

          4-5    medium-large onions, ends removed, wedge cut from
                        pole to pole

          4-5    bell peppers, color choices are yours, stemmed, seeded/
                        veined, and cut into strips

          2-3    cloves minced garlic, heated in oil to flavor the onions
                        and peppers

          pinch each salt and pepper 

Add the fourth through the fifteenth ingredients (the hot peppers if desired) into the blender or food processor and purée till completely blended.  Put the strip-sliced meats and fishes into separate zip-lock bags.  Add enough marinade to each to cover in order of length of time needed to marinate.  Place the red meats in one bag (four to eight hours), chicken in another (one to three hours), and the shrimp/fish in another (twenty to thirty minutes max – we’re not making ceviche).  Squeeze out all the air and zip closed, place in container to secure any leaks, and chill well in the refrigerator – massage them once or twice. 

Initially, chill everything separately, the dry, unmarinated meats and fishes in separate bags, the orange marinade in its own bag or jar – and introduce the marinade to the meats in their bags all so that they are ready at the same time.  Yeah, you do have to plan ahead a bit.  If your party is at four in the afternoon, then start the red meat at least eight/nine-ish in the morning or so, if not the day before, then the chicken at noon - up to two in the afternoon, and the fish at three-thirty.

Heat BBQ coals, grill pan, or begin the gas system, until the grate/surface is very hot, and clean/brush well.  Lower to medium hot and apply oil to the grate with a vegetable oil-dipped wad of paper towel held by tongs and lube well.  In fact, lube several times repeatedly with a few minutes between.  It will build up a better layer of ‘non-stick’ quality that is best for the sugars involved.

Place the meats directly onto the medium-hot to hot grill from the zip-lock bag, draining/shaking off most the thick marinade but leaving what adheres (don’t rinse off).  The strips will cook quickly, so turn with the tongs just once.  Caramelization is imperative – and actually, for that matter, unavoidable. 

Red meat should be cooked to tender but still pink (1½ to 2 minutes a side).  The chicken must be cooked through (it should cook slightly longer, but it does cook faster, so put it on first and don't walk away), so go for about 2 minutes a side or so.  Cut a strip open to be sure before removing.

Shrimp cooked in the shell gives a much bigger flavor, as well as the shell protecting the delicate flesh from the stark heat of the grill.  BBQ’ing shrimp in the shell here in this recipe is an option, but peeling to eat is difficult in a presentation of hot and messy coating such as this recipe offers.  Should you already have shrimp that's in the shell you’d like to use here, you can peel and freeze the shells for stock (refer to the stock section of ‘on the same page’ as well as the 'soup' stock entry).

 

The peeled shrimp will require strict attention, as they cook very quickly and will overcook in an instant.  The citrus juices already have started to ‘cook’ or 'denature' the flesh a bit, so carefull attention in cooking is top priority - don't walk away from this BBQ choice.  Fish and shellfish have a different.protein structure, and require a lower cooking heat, so finding a cooler spot on the grill is a best option.  And best yet, layering at least two sheets of aluminum foil under the fish/shrimp helps contain and protect the morsels to the optimum finish.  Also, a fish basket can contain the delicate fillets or shrimp, which is absolute best.  In cooking, they should appear just barely past opaque and just becoming firm (they will continue to cook a bit after removal).  Don’t try to caramelize on both sides, just the first.

Fish tacos: Fillets are also most delicate.  You will find it easier to use a non-stick fish ‘basket’ to handle the fish on the grill, or cover the area of the grill with a double thick layer of aluminum foil for just the fish/shrimp.  Having a clean and oiled grill may or may not save the fillets from gluing themselves to the grill top.  But hey, a fish taco is worth it!   You’ll need shredded cabbage and soft corn tortillas, covered with the roasted green chile or cilantro cream sauce! Plus salsa and lots of fresh squeezed lime.  That’s it, perfect!

In large frying pan or the BBQ grill pan, sauté the strips of onion and peppers, along with the seasoning, in oil and garlic till tender and browned on the edges.  Serve with the meats.   This is an amazingly alternate idea of ‘BBQ’ and you’ll love the difference.  Serve up on soft split grilled rolls, fresh corn or flour tortillas, pita bread, or even like a pizza, on a grilled fresh pizza dough round (or store bought prepared).

Must do:  Finally, as a contrasting accent, choose ‘cool’ condiments like diced cucumber, mango and tomato; shredded lettuce and/or cabbage; sour cream/Mexican crema; shredded cheeses; cilantro; chopped olives; diced sweet onions; chilled salsas – especially the ones I’ve given in this book; chilled sliced radishes; pomegranate seeds; dry grated aged cheeses; black beans and black bean sauce; and most importantly, a squeeze of lots of fresh lime - your mouth will be delighted.

This method of BBQ could be assumed to become a burnt sugar nightmare, but not really.  It will cause some mess, but burn off the residue after all is done by covering and returning the finished empty grill to high heat, and then give a good scrape, just as how you started.  You’ll be glad you layered the oil in preparation.

Roasted green chile cream sauce:  use either one or two roasted, seeded and peeled poblano peppers or purchase a can or cans (7 to 14 oz, as you prefer) of mild green chiles and whirl in the processor with three-quarters cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a pinch each of salt, cayenne and cumin.

Cilantro cream sauce:  Simply blend one or two bunches of fresh rough-chopped cilantro tops and the slender upper stems, limejuice, fresh garlic, salt and pepper with sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt in the blender/food processor till lightly green and very aromatic.  Fold in fine-diced green onions, fresh  chopped cilantro and/or chives after blending for a bit of texture.