More on the side show

CUCUMBER SALAD

  

My mom used to make so many tasty eatables with cucumbers.  In the heat of summer, nothing seemed more cooling and refreshing.  Sliced cucumber sandwiches were my favorite summertime treat. Just a smear of mayonnaise (and/or cream cheese or pimento cheese spread!) and crunchy salt and fresh ground pepper along with the ice-cold cucumber slices (try slicing in planks as opposed to coins, and they’ll stay better in the sandwich) and it was the most delicious thing on a hot day.  Along with the fresh, the pickled cucumber (and onions) fare wonderfully together here, as well.  For snacks my Mom’d put cucumber, sweet red onion and/or iceberg lettuce slices on saltine crackers with a bit of mayo and we kids thought we were snacking in elegance.  It was amazing how refreshing and satisfying those snacks were and are.  Also, for dinner, she’d make sliced cucumbers in just a smattering of equal parts of sour cream and mayonnaise plus a splash of wine vinegar – and as simple as it was, it was the best salad and cool crunch to have after a day in the sun.

I’ve altered that recipe in that memory just a bit, but the end result still takes me there.

One downside to fresh cucumbers is that they inherently have so much moisture that infusing with any other liquid flavoring in a salad presentation can sometimes be difficult.  Salting, like with eggplant, removes excess moisture – but unlike eggplant, the moisture removed isn’t necessarily bitter or sour.  But it does allow a good textured crunch to the cucumber slices, and extends the life of the salad without it becoming too watered down or the cucumber too limp.

This recipe is very simple, just a little preparation.  Slice two or three cucumbers (peel if they have a heavy, waxed or bitter skin) in coins.  If heavily seeded, they may be first halved then the seeds scooped with a spoon, then sliced – on a bias or in planks, as well as coins.  Slice rather thin, around an eighth (best) to a quarter (max) of an inch thick, for better ‘fit’ into the mouth and absorption of flavor dressings.

Slice red onions, sweet regional (like Texas 1015’s, Springsweets, Walla Walla, Vidalia or Maui) onions, celery and/or carrots (try using a vegetable peeler for the carrot slices, nice texture) the same thickness and size, making the cucumbers the largest ingredient proportion in this salad.   Lightly sprinkle the slices in one or two teaspoons of salt, place in a colander or strainer lined with paper towels or dish towel, and set over a bowl.  Refrigerate for at least a half hour, up to four.  Rinse and pat dry well (or use a salad spinner) the slices and vegetable bits and place in bowl to mix with the dressing.

The dressing is simple to create, being a mix of equal parts sour cream, mayonnaise and Greek yogurt (recipe here in this book), along with a clove of minced garlic and a couple of tbs of finely chopped fresh dill (dried is fine, but allow time for it to re-hydrate in the salad liquids). 

Example:  With three or four larger sized sliced cucumbers, a small red onion half-moon sliced, and a slivered carrot, bring a half a cup each of the dressing fats, add a quarter cup fresh chopped herbs or two tablespoons of dried, and a minced clove of garlic.  A quarter cup of red wine vinegar (best choice), rice wine vinegar or lemon juice will help refresh the weightiness of the fats and bring a nice fresh zip to the final taste.  Let set and chill at least an hour before serving.

A sprinkling of chopped cilantro, mint, watercress and/or parsley make a nice fresh final taste if you would rather replace the dill.

Don’t want fat?  Try just non-fat Greek yogurt, or not at all.  Personally,  l love the Asian style presentation - Just marinate in the vinegar with a bit of sweet (sugar, honey, safe sugar-free sweetener like 'Stevia') and the dill.  Sprinkle with black and/or white sesame seeds and serve well-chilled.  So nice!

A bit of salt and fresh cracked pepper and you’re ready to go.  A perfect picnic item alongside fried chicken and potato salad.

Options:  Folding in some leaf herbs such as mint, basil, parsley, cilantro and/or watercress will make an even fresher lift and taste.

For fun, and for a more central course option - try adding bite-sized shellfish (shrimp, lobster, crab, crawfish, squid etc) in with the cucumber.  This salad now becomes a main dish - or at the least, a great side dish.  Cool, refreshing, filling.  Great!

The side show

FRENCH FRIED POTATOES  

with garlic, vinegar and salt                                      for two

I can eat potatoes any way, shape or form, and have proven it on many an occasion.  And yes, I learned to make french fries in France.  I think we’ve got that by now.  Although you may not have known, we call them ‘french’ because of the ‘frenching’ stick-style method of cutting the potato, not because the French invented them.  But not to wax too Franco, the French do have the market cornered on ‘frites’ – pronounced ‘freets’.  It’s all in the twice-frying.  The first fry brings the cut fry to a limp state, mostly cooked interior, and drives out the moisture from the surface of the fry.  The first-fry batch is allowed to cool.  We’ve learned that drier elements fry up crisper, such as stale tortillas fry crisper than fresh.  Stale bread fries crunchier than fresh for croutons – and so on.  They still have that wonderful fluffy interior moisture, but the dry surface is what we’re aiming for.  With that in mind, the first-fry dries out the surface of the potato so that in the second-fry, the surface is able to fry crisper; while the inside steams to softly moist and delicious.  The two-texture fry is the best fry.  And that’s how it’s done.

In Paris, one of my favorite lunches was ‘frites and saucisse’ (freets and sow-seese). That’s fries and sausage to us.  They weren’t exactly as hard-driven on the food maintenance element as we are here, but the guy in the little stand had only one deep fryer and he’d drop the sausages in the oil along with the fries.  I really didn’t mind.  It was pure decadence.

When cooking fries for a group, the twice-fry method makes much more sense.  Cook all the fries in batches in the first fry to a limp yet still white stage.  Let cool.   There you are.  The second fry is considerably shorter, and it’s easier to fry multiple batches for a bunch of eager eaters when the time element between batch cooking and serving is shortened.

My favorite version of this is one I do for myself only once in a great while.  Especially when I’m coupling it with a big juicy home made ‘Mom’s’ burger.  My mouth still loves that stuff, but my older fat cells and arteries will beg to differ.

Tools:  fry or sauté pan, drain rack/paper towels/paper bags, cutting board

Ingredients:

            Oil – a good, clean, heat-capable oil such as
                        grape seed, peanut or canola is a good
                        choice, vegetable oil is less able of
                        taking the heat but will do

            2     big, clear and clean Yukon gold or russet
                        potatoes, cut in fry choice size (peeling
                        is your preference)

1     onion, peeled, halved top to bottom, and
                        half-moon sliced about a quarter inch wide

          4-6    cloves garlic, whole

vinegar – malt, wine, rice wine, champagne, sherry or
                        herb-flavored

large flake grain salt, such as sea or Kosher

ketchup

Preparation:  Cut the potatoes to the strip size of around a quarter of an inch or so, but no larger than about half by half inch, or wedge cut in sixths or eighths to a potato - the idea is to keep all the cut pieces about the same size for equal cooking.  Set planks/wedges in bowl of cold water while preparing everything else (may soak for hours, even from the day before - no longer - or just the time it takes to cut up all the spuds - at least a half hour).  This removes some of the surface starch, which will help crisp the outer part of the potato as well.  The longer the soak time, the 'lighter' the crisp that will result

In about a half-inch of oil, bring pan to mid hot (about 320°).  On one side of the pan, carefully place the potatoes (drained, rinsed and patted very dry before introducing to the oil) in a single layer.  On the other side of the pan, lay out the onions and garlic cloves.  Sauté and flip everything in the pan until the potatoes reach a limp stage, but still white.  Remove the pan from the heat, and remove just the potatoes from the pan to a paper towel briefly, and then to a rack.  From this point on, you can go to the store, watch a show on TV or make a phone call.  No hurry.  The potatoes are removed from the oil, so won’t absorb more oil as they cool.  The onions and garlic won’t absorb the oil at all.   When ready to serve, bring the pan back to a bit higher heat (about 370°), stir the onions and garlic well, and move to the side, then add the potatoes once again, flipping, and bringing them to golden crisp and done.  Remove all, drain on a rack just over paper towels, and salt (coarse salt) immediately (the hot oil 'melts' the salt mineral crystal grains into the potato surface).  When serving at the table, it’s potatoes/onions/garlic cloves (like candy) all together, sprinkle with your favorite vinegar (what do you think the base liquid is in ketchup?) – and only dip in ketchup if you think you need to.  I dare you.  OK, you're right, how can it be bad?

Options:  Lightly flour the dried soaked raw fry shapes with corn starch, fine corn meal (flour) or rice flour for a better crunch - and if feeling a bit decadent, then thinly batter after the flour coating before the second fry and give them a multi-textured X-crunch – and this batter can be plain (just flour and selzer water) or add chili powder or citrus zest or seeds etc.

Also, choosing flavorful veggies like zucchini spears; blanched asparagus spears; whole mushrooms; canned and drained hearts of palm,  baby corn and bamboo shoots; spears of eggplant etc. - all may be flour dusted then battered and fried as well, but only the one time.

Cooking options:  If frying isn’t your wish, you can boil the cut and soaked fries until tender, drain and dry, then place on a pre-heated sheet pan, in a very hot oven (400º-450º), spray with oil and sprinkle with salt, laying the cut fries out in a single layer (best if on a wire rack in the sheet pan).  Return to oven, and roasting for about fifteen to twenty-five minutes, or until crispy on the outside and fluffy and tender on the inside (carefully test one).  Flipping over half-way through helps with a consistent cooking and color, but isn't totally necessary, just keep an eye on them.

You may try the boiling first stage with the fries in a frying manner as well.  Boil till barely tender, dry well; fry the first fry till 'floppy', then the second fry till crisp.  it's all good!

Exotic fries:  Give it a try using sweet potatoes, yucca root, taro root and/or firm plantains (green or half ripe) – but cut much slimmer, more like ‘shoestring’ – and because of their increased sugars, fry more gently on the first fry but a bit longer duration till limp, and bring just to crisp on the second fry.  Sprinkle with coarse salt just out of the oil.   Yowza!

Toppers:  Oh, do you really want to know?  White gravy (béchamel) with bacon or sausage bits, chicken and oink gravies; red or green chili - and even better with cheese, diced red and/or green onions, peppers and a squeeze of lime; melted cheese(s); guacamole and other salsas; marinara sauce; tartar sauce; Greek yogurt / tzatziki sauce; fondue  . . . am I bad enough yet? 

ONION RINGS

Some time ago, I remodeled, designed and eventually ran the floor of a little café in San Diego, where one of the best sellers on the menu was the onion rings ‘loaf’.  The rings were cut thin, coated, and fried in the deep fryer basket.  When done and turned out, they resembled a loaf of bread, sorta.  They were the most delicious onion rings I’ve ever had.  I much prefer that shape to the fatter rings, but everyone has their preference.  My only dislike is when one takes a bite from the larger ring and the entire onion slides from the crust and hangs on your chin, but some like that.  The thinner version does have an advantage against this munching sloppiness.   Plus you can shove more in your mouth at one time.

Use large, firm, and clean onions of your choice.  The onion will sweeten in the cooking process, so a naturally sweet onion only ups that option a bit.  The basic heartiness of the onion is the main basis, and the quality of the type of onion runs a close second.  Cut your slices in the thickness that you prefer, and separate the rings.  The cooking process is best at deep-frying, but not everyone has this type of frying available in the kitchen (see below).  Like with chicken, vegetable shortening is a good frying agent, but also peanut oil, and to the last option, I’d say canola – or a mix of these.   Vegetable oil is ok, but hasn’t the fortitude to stand up to long and hot frying as the other oils do.  Either way, an inch deep is your best non-professional bet, and this can be accomplished in a good, sturdy cast iron skillet or frying pan.  A few rings at a time, salted then drained well, and kept warm in a low oven and you’re set.

The ring prep is a simple flour dredge, or it is that plus up to three steps:  A flour dredge on the fresh cut rings; plus a liquid ‘batter’ for crust base if you like; and a final flour crust dredge before the dip in 350°-370° oil (it will drop to 350° when cooking begins).  The batter for adhering the crust would be as with the chicken and fish, buttermilk.  Add an egg for adhesion (the onion is a bit slicker than a protein surface.  The first step would be a simple flour dusting (you can stop here and fry), or as a preparation for the batter.  Second, the batter; and third, a final flour for crust.  That final can be varied, and can change with your moods.  The base is wheat flour, but add a quarter the amount of the wheat flour with cornstarch or even potato, corn or rice flour for a good crunch enhancement, and all with a half teaspoon of salt and baking powder.  To this a particle crunch addition may be added, if desired, just to up the fun a bit.  We can try so many delicious things that we like to eat anyway, and most likely have in the pantry.  Crush up any of these and add only a quarter of a cup into the flour mix:  Soda crackers, Corn Flakes, Wheat thins, wheat germ, Panko bread crumbs, potato flakes, Rye Crisp, potato chips, sesame seeds, onion seeds, dill seeds, Butter crackers, grated hard/aged cheeses and on and on.

Dippers are just as varied, but my preference is Bleu cheese dressing.  But the cilantro cream sauce (in this book), or the usual ranch dressing or thousand island are fine, or as with fries, the aforementioned tartar sauce.  So fine.

Options:  Many foods are worth trying, like asparagus spears, bell and pepper slices, zucchini spears/coins, sliced green tomatoes, mushrooms, baby corn . . . and dried/cured meat sticks, fresh shellfish, meat and poultry bits, you name it! 

Fry options:  Heat a sheet pan in a very hot oven (400º-450º), spray oil the pan, lay out the prepared rings in a single layer, then return to the oven to roast for about fifteen to twenty minutes, depending on the width of the rings.

GREEN SALAD

with sweet and heat                         serves four to six

Perhaps the healthiest and best tasting anything we can put in our mouths at the same time is FRESH produce.  And what better way to enjoy that intake than to eat a big, hearty salad every day if we can.  Our bodies will never complain, but again – let’s exercise moderation with what lovely oils and fats we pour over that healthy plateful.   Salads need not base on a ‘leafy green’, but one can certainly use corn, beets, beans/lentils/legumes, carrots, cucumbers, melons, squashes, fennel and/or tomatoes, for example – alone or paired or combined, even without ‘lettuce’ to make it a ‘salad’.

On the list of things to do with the Salsa Sorpresa here in this book I have included the use of the salsa for a salad dressing ingredient.  But bear in mind, it’s the concept as much as the recipe I want to get across.  The salsa is a mid-range spice, heat-wise, and when coupled with ‘cooler’ things such as cream cheese (which I’ll eat on dog biscuits) and other cheeses, buttermilk/sour cream, or any of the above salad suggestions, the heat element is certainly mitigated.  Plus we will have the long established ‘heat and sweet’ concept that works successfully in so many presentations.

To this, balance the slight heat of the salsa in the dressing with some sweet in the salad.

Vinaigrette Salad dressing:  A cruet of:  two-thirds extra virgin olive oil and one-third balsamic vinegar; extra virgin olive oil and wine, rice, sherry and/or champagne vinegar; or walnut or sesame oil lightly flavoring vegetable (or safflower, canola or peanut) oil with wine, rice, sherry and/or champagne vinegar – all are established perfect dressings as is, but for a gentle spike in heat and wonderful ‘what is that?’ taste – add a tablespoon or two of the Salsa Sorpresa.   In addition, any favorite existing dressing, bottled or home made – vinaigrette, thousand island, ranch, creamy Italian, creamy/ fresh Caesar, French, bleu cheese, Green goddess and so on – these also coupled with a portion of the Salsa Sorpresa will find a new place in flavor.

Screw lid jar dressing:  In a former mayo type jar (the size of a large coffee cup) or similar, put in something close to the following:  1/2 cup olive or quality vegetable/canola oil; 1/4 cup red wine vinegar; 1/4 cup (4 tbs) quality prepared mayo; squeeze of half a lemon; healthy pinch (1/2 tsp) each oregano, dill, rosemary, salt, fresh cracked papper; and several dashes hot sauce.  Perfect just like this.  But, as we know we can go on - to this, different flavors may be added such as 2-3 tbs grated Parmesan, fine chopped olives (black and/or green), dried onion flakes or fine diced shallot, fine diced sun-dried tomatoes (best if packed in oil); splash of balsamic vinegar; a minced anchovy fillet or a bit of paste, capers, 1-2 tsp sesame/caraway/poppy/celery seeds, the aforementioned Salsa Sorpresa and so on.  Shake well and keep in refrigeration for 1-2 months (it won't last that long)      

Basic salad:  foundation lettuce – leaf lettuce, iceberg, Boston bib, Romaine, and spinach as well as the ‘side-kick’ type greens like dandelion greens and roots, endive/frisée, arugula, mustard greens, and other ‘greens’ like escarole, mesclun, rocket, kale, baby bok choy, and so on. 

Alongside these we have the ‘spice’ greens that add accent, texture and spikes of flavor in a bite like radicchio, watercress, chicory, and green/spring onions/scallions.  At last we have the herbaceous flavor leaves such as basil, dill, cilantro, tarragon, mint, chives, parsley, fennel fronds and capers.  Sure, there’s more, but you get the concept.

Secondary vegetable ingredients:  We have the cool foundation salad leaf ingredients, now for the contrasting texture and flavor vegetable additives like tomatoes, celery, sweet onions (pickled and/or fresh), cucumbers (pickled and/or fresh), bell peppers, banana peppers, beans/legumes, squashes, baby corn, sweet corn, artichoke hearts (pickled or roasted), mung bean and alfalfa sprouts, beets, carrots, hearts of palm, corn, mushrooms (raw, pickled grilled, or canned straw), pickled okra, roasted eggplant dices, fennel bulb and pomegranate seeds.

Protein:  To add meat, as such, one could choose the obvious such as chicken, ham, steak or roast pork/bacon in slices/dices/planks.  Less obvious would be anchovies, sardines, herring, and other prepared or pickled or brined fishes, and always a great canned or fresh option of tuna, albacore or salmon.  Then we have (with great pleasure) fresh or fresh-frozen and thawed prepared shellfish like shrimp, crab, lobster, calamari, or scallops – EXCELLENT!   And the dairy – cubed, newer cheese offering (don’t go with shredded with this type of cheese, stay with small cubed/diced – Swiss, cheddar, jack, muenster, emmental etc and go from there) and eggs, as in hard boiled or mid-hard (thick gooey yolk) finished eggs, grated or sliced, diced or wedged or crumbled.  Tofu and edamame as a protein is always a nice texture and nutrition addition, whether as is, or sautéed or roasted with soy sauce, miso, garlic or other flavorings.

Beans (any and every kind) and nuts are a perfect protein source - fresh, dried and cooked, canned (rinsed) and/or pickled/brined.

The ‘sweet’:  To balance the heat, counter with the after-taste of cool in a sweet bite.  Examples from the above that qualify as sweet are:  mandarin oranges, sweet bell peppers (any color, taste test for sweetness), mild/sweet chile peppers, corn, fennel, apple dices, pear dices, halved seedless grapes, raisins, dried pomegranate seeds and cranberries, dried fruits, sweet onions and fresh pomegranate seeds.

Lastly, the ‘toppers’:  First we have the nut offering – mentioned many times (toasted pine nuts, almonds, walnuts, pumpkin, sesame, sunflower etc); grated or crumbly cheeses (Parmesan, Cotija, pecorino, stilton/Gorgonzola etc, feta, chevre, asiago); croutons, corn or tortilla chips, fresh fried potato or vegetable ‘straws’; and finally cream cheeses, goat and other new cheeses. 

How do I like my salad?  Well, one of my faves is really quite simple:  Romaine greens, diced up tomatoes, baby corn, deli cooked/peeled shrimp (or frozen that way and thawed) with an easy mayo and salsa sorpresa dressing – really good and refreshing!  

But do try mandarin orange segments and chopped walnuts together in any salad.  Munch happily!

PASTA/POTATO SALAD   
or with meats               served as a side for a small to medium sized group

You just can’t have fried chicken, baked ham or a meatloaf sandwich in a picnic fashion without these immortal side dishes.  The backside to all this is the fear of the raw egg (in mayonnaise) reaction to heat on that warm day, as well as other foods in the heat.  Packaged mayonnaises usually all have dealt with that issue by adding steaming vinegars and liquid flavors to the egg/mustard mix and securing the raw egg to a safe temperature while whipping the oil into the mix.  I very strongly suggest avoiding homemade mayonnaises for picnic options, unless you have the same method of controlling the raw egg to a safe temperature, but I wouldn’t risk it.  Another good option is to use a thickened (or Greek) yogurt, or other cultured cream or milk product.

The biggest complaint with potato and pasta salads is the fact that they’re sometimes too dry or ‘pasty’, or in the effort to rectify that, they’re too oily.  I hope to address both those issues, and give you a great tasting salad at the same time.  Plus, undercooked potatoes and pasta just don’t succeed at all in the final dish.  A lot of hard work can be ruined by this.  You must be sure they are perfect to the ‘mouth’.  I’ve had store bought and fine restaurant potato salads that aren’t completely cooked, and the result is amazingly disappointing. 

When pasta/potatoes segments are fresh boiled (or steamed), drained, and still hot – the starch structure is porous – and they absorb moisture quickly and easily.  Take advantage of this to impart moist flavor into the morsels, yet avoid the trapping of thinking that oil should be one of them – oil will only soak almost completely into the hot starch and lose most of its lubricating gift to the dish.

Meat salads are a wonderful way to have a more complete meal in this dish.  Plus the refreshing coolness is a plus with that summer picnic.  The difference is to use half the ‘sour’ element of either citrus juice or vinegar, and stay with more ‘gentle’ meat-appropriate herbs such as basil, tarragon, sage, thyme, dill or cilantro (fresh if at all possible).

Choose from the ingredients suggested (or go where you feel comfortable in other directions); remember that all the category options given here need not be used.  Go for those that give flavors and textures consistent with the dish.  Choose oils/fats that remain stable and flavorful and that are pleasantly textured at cold temperatures.   Make within a day or two of presentation.

As with the salad ingredients mentioned with sweet and spicy salads, these additives are basically the same. Just remembering the properties of pasta and the ingredient additives dice size (¼ to ¾ inch) will help you achieve your good taste and texture goal.  Following are an offering of basic but varied elements for a cool starch and/or meat salad, given as proportions, arrangements and textures.  Choose from this list, or create your own ingredient list, as the flavors and textures of other cultures can ‘translate’ very well with this ‘American’ dish, as they sound good to you.  I can think of Thai, Szechwan, Italian, Greek and Japanese texture and flavor ingredients not listed that would be amazing in such a salad.  Just do a little research, talk to your favorite restaurant or ethnic grocery store merchant and have fun.

Tools:  cutting board, mixing bowls, zip bags, saucepan/stockpot

Ingredients:

Potatoes – comprising 55-65% of the mass:  a 75-25% mix or so of ‘starch’ Yukon gold or russet, and ‘waxy’ new (white, red or rose), diced ½ to ¾ inch.   Steamed or simmered to tender and DONE, never ‘crunchy’ or ‘stiff’.  About a quarter to half a cup of the cooked potatoes may be mashed well to ‘creamy’ and blended with the dressing for texture and flavor.            and/or   

Pasta – comprising 55-65% of the mass:  Textured and/or formed to hold the dressing and finely chopped ingredients:   Tubular: elbow, penne, penne rigate, rigatoni, macaroni salad, elbow macaroni etc   Spiral:  short fusilli, rotini etc and/or Shaped:  farfalle (actually means ‘butterfly’, but we know it as ‘bowtie’), orzo (means ‘barley’, but looks like big rice), conchiglie, conchigliette (shell), radiatori (hollow, ridged), rotelli, rotelle (wagon wheel) etc.; and Stuffed:  tortellini, small ravioli, cappelletti etc.            and/or

Chicken, turkey, ham, crab, shrimp, lobster, mussels etc – comprising 50-60% of the mass:  If used in place of pasta or potatoes, or in addition with, may be the consideration for a chicken salad or other type as you wish.  Diced the pre-cooked, skinned and cooled meats to generous bite-sized portions.  For turkey or chicken, I see no wrong with dark as well as white meats, although some may feel ‘purist’ with white flesh only.

Vegetables/fruits/grains/nuts – comprising 20-30% of the mass: Fresh fully cooked, par-cooked (frozen and thawed or fresh braised) or raw: asparagus, bell peppers, sweet/mild heat peppers, sweet/red/green onions, leeks, shallots, celery, sweet corn, broccoli, fennel, carrots, mushrooms, tomatoes; fresh raw: cucumbers, jicama, celery root, firm apples, raisins - and avocados (added last); dried cherries, cranberries, grapes, apricots, pomegranates, apples, pineapples, mangos etc. and/or dried vegetables (most every kind offered, usually ‘freeze’ dried); nuts/seeds (almond, coconut, walnut, peanut, sesame, caraway, dill), and legumes/grains, usually canned, packaged or frozen: all color beans, soy, fava, string beans, chick peas/garbanzos, peas, lentils, rice, wild rice etc., fully cooked and cooled.

Marinated (along with their associated vinaigrette), or pickled/brined (drained well), comprising 15-20% of the mass:  artichoke hearts, okra, mushrooms, broccoli, peppers, carrots, cucumber, cauliflower, sun-dried tomatoes, eggplant, garlic, ginger, pepperoncini, ‘nacho’ rings, banana peppers, onions and cucumbers (recipes in this book), baby corn, straw mushrooms, hearts of palm, pitted green or black olives, beets, peppercorns, capers, roasted peppers, and pickles (sweet, dill, garlic, Kosher, bread and butter) etc.

Greens – comprising 10-15% of the mass:  lettuce shreds, sliced or torn romaine, Boston/butter (as a ‘bowl’ or diced), spinach, mustard greens, frisée/endive, arugula, escarole, mesclun, radicchio, etc. 

Flavoring meats and prepared dairy – comprising 5-10% of the mass:  dried hard salami, bacon bits, pepperoni and cured sausages, ham, beef; pickled/brined meats (pigs feet, corned beef and pastrami) and pickled/brined fish (anchovies, sardines, oysters/clams, herring)  -- pickled eggs and cheeses, hard-boiled eggs.  Finally, we have the whole cheese offering – we can go on for a while here – among them flavored cheeses like pepper jack, smoked cheeses, spiced cheeses – like smoked gouda, caraway or dill Havarti – but make sure the cheese is diced to no larger than half inch cube, max (and don’t grate the cheese, it ‘disappears’).

Herbal/spice – Fresh when at all possible to finish, dried applied at the onset: basil, tarragon, mint, chives, dill, parsley, marjoram, rosemary, fennel fronds, lavender, oregano, sage, carrot tops, cilantro/ cracked pepper, cloves, nutmeg, cardamom, sea/Kosher and flavored salts, etc

Aromatic – hot and mild peppers, pepper flakes, garlic, ginger, anchovies, capers, etc.

Dressing – Oils:  This time choose flavor:  Extra virgin olive oil;

                or base oils such as canola, safflower, soybean or

                flaxseed oils blended with flavor fats/oils such as

                rendered pork, duck or chicken fats, or flavored/

                infused oils such as truffle, roasted garlic, annatto/

                achiote, or porcini for example.  

   Mustards:  Dijon, German, Chinese, yellow, whole grain
            coarse, wasabi/horseradish etc.

    Flavorings: Soy, mirin, miso, oyster sauce, honey, fish sauce,

            citrus juice and zest (all kinds), curry, anchovies, finely

            diced shallots and/or garlic, nut butters, grated hard

            cheeses (Parmesan, Cotija etc), aged or fresh soft

            cheeses/ dairy (bleus, goats, Camembert, mascarpone/

            Neufchatel/ cream cheese, yogurt, sour cream/crème

            fraîche etc.), sesame or walnut oil etc.

             Vinegars:  Red or white wine, sherry, rice wine, apple cider,

                     champagne wine, balsamic, vermouth

             Mayonnaise:  Store bought, quality, full-bodied (may use ‘reduced

                     fat’ if desired, but not ‘non-fat’)

             The base: 1/3 the amount of mayo/oil each of buttermilk and/or

                     sour cream (a bit of cream cheese may be

                     used if the salad needs more body or richness).

Preparation:  Prepare the dressing in two parts.  The vinegar portion is prepared first: choose the vinegar(s); choose a mustard or mix of mustards and any dried herbs/spices and blend well.  For a pound of dry pasta, or 3-4 pounds of potatoes, use about a third to a half of a cup of vinegar (some prefer a more vinegary taste) with 1-3 heaping tablespoons of mustard (or with 2-3 pounds of meats, half the vinegar/mustard mix with the meats, and use rice or grape wine – the milder vinegars – as your choice) with your choice of dried herbs/spices.  Boil/steam the diced potatoes to soft yet firm, or prepare the pasta according to directions – go to ‘al dente’ for the pasta, or just past – and remove and drain well.  While still hot, place in bowl and dress with vinegar mix and toss gently and thoroughly and let it all cool.  When it reaches room temperature – or with the prepared diced (and now marinated) meats – add diced onion choices and dried herbs, mix lightly and cover with plastic wrap or store in large zip-lock bag and store/chill well in the refrigerator.  With the meats, marinate only a few hours max, till well chilled. 

In a mixing bowl, mix the oil part of the dressing:  ¾ cup of mayonnaise with ¼ cup of oil (or oils/fats mix), and 1/3 cup of sour cream, Greek yogurt and/or softened cream cheese for a rich base (and any mashed potato ‘cream’ if desired).   Lastly, 2-4 tbs of buttermilk will loosen and moisten it just right (don’t use with the meats). Add pickled/brined small-diced items like relishes, peppers, capers, chopped olives, diced artichoke hearts, diced pickled okra, sliced pickled jalapenos, diced apples, raisins, dried cranberries etc; and minced ingredients like anchovies, garlic, horseradish sauce or other sauces – then mix well and put in zip-lock bag, air squeezed out, and seal well and chill.  And yet, in still another zip-lock bag place all the larger diced ingredients and related marinating oils including vegetables, fruits, flavor meats, and dairy that you wish to have in the salad. 

Just prior to serving, unpack the starch and/or meats and sprinkle with a splash of vinegar water, and toss to loosen and fluff.   Mix all the chilled ingredients together in the large bowl and blend well along with the fresh herbs.  And the last, dice and fold in the delicate avocado, chopped egg or other softer items, if desired.  

This method allows for practical storage, and encourages the blending of the spices, herbs, flavors and aromas of the ingredients without the time for it all to ‘dry out’ or the reverse, to over-soak.

If making chicken or turkey salad, I’d also recommend definitely using a ‘moisture’ element to assist with the often felt ‘dry’ that the fowl may give in the salad  -- for a sweet-ish salad, using diced apples, seedless grapes (red or green, cut in half), mandarin orange segments, pineapple or grapefruit dices, flavored gelatin cubes etc.; or for a savory-ish salad, choosing moist diced vegetables such as pickled artichoke hearts, canned drained 3-bean salad beans, hearts of palm, olives/olive salad, jicama, pepperoncini, cucumbers, and relishes (zucchini relish is wonderful) etc.

and to top it off, ruby cranberries

CRANBERRY SAUCE

Not too far from what is expected for that big day, but just different enough that

everyone will want to give it a try.

One can 16 oz cranberry smooth gelatin sauce, room temperature

One can 16oz cranberry chunky gelatin sauce, room temperature

One two-cup yield package, 5 oz raspberry dessert gelatin, dissolved
          fully in one cup very hot water

Open and add both cans of prepared cranberry sauce to bowl.  Add hot concentrate of dissolved raspberry gelatin to both and mash till melted/blended as one.  Pour into mold, chill well. 

If chilled in a ring mold, when un-molded, blend ½ cup sour cream or Greek yogurt with ½ cup mayonnaise and fill the center.  Top with orange zest, crushed nuts, pomegranate seeds, fresh mint chiffonade, dried cranberries (Craisins) etc.

Optional:  When still unset, but almost, add one 8 oz package of warmer-than room temperature cream cheese (like as if it would never be good with anything) can be swirled into the thickening gelatin mix, either blended completely or dabbed and ‘veined’ after poured into the mold, then chilled to completely firm. 

Try our favorite crunch, long sautéed (20-30 minutes) in butter, very low and steady – a quarter cup of slivered almonds, crushed hazelnuts, pecan pieces or what your heart desires, with a tsp of sugar and a pinch of salt and cayenne till golden and very aromatic, crushed and sprinkled over or blended in.

All is ‘legal’ when it’s Thanksgiving, right?

CRANBERRY RELISH

My mom had one of those crank style grinders that clamped to the table, and she’d grind her own hamburger meat as well as a great paté made from (of all things) bologna (that great recipe is also here in this book).  But from that crank machine also came a holiday treat that I’ve rarely had since, and let me tell you, it’s good any time of the year.  And so simple.  If you don’t have a crank grinder (my mom’s was all steel and looked like you could drive it, but they are also made now in steel/plastic, and very affordable), a food processor may be used -- but exercise caution, as the texture needs to be like a course relish, and not a smooth purée.  Process a bit at a time and mix all when done, and don’t push any other button than ‘pulse’.

Be sure to clean the surface of the orange peel well.  They now sell a food-oriented ‘soap’ for safely cleaning food products of dirt, chemicals and waxes.  Good idea to have in the kitchen anyway.

      3-4     lbs SWEET, low-seed oranges, like Valencia, Mandarins/tangerines/

                       Clementines, or tangelos -- cut into at least quarters if small,

                       eighths if large; carefully picked of seeds and ‘strings’, 

                       if necessary

      ¼      cup sugar, honey, sugar substitute (proportionately measured)

    1-1½   lbs fresh or fresh-frozen and partially thawed uncooked cranberries

       ½      cup (optional) rough-chopped nuts (almonds, cashews, walnuts,

                       pecans etc)

      ½       tsp each salt and fresh cracked pepper 

           

       1       tsp almond extract (sprinkled over and stirred in after grinding,

                       and blended well)

Just grind away.  Make it as fresh as possible to when you wish to use it, and store well sealed and refrigerated.  It won’t last long.  You may find yourself with a spoon in hand in front of the refrigerator door after everyone else has gone to bed.

Options:  Add diced fresh apple, pineapple, lemons, grapefruits; diced dried apples, cherries, apricots or raisins; diced celery; diced jicama etc., and citrus zests.  And then always, the heat, a pinch of cayenne or a few dashes of hot sauce are fun.

The bitterness of the pith (the white part) under the zest can sometimes be overwhelming.  Should you have the time and energy, the surfaces of the oranges may be peeled with a vegetable peeler of all the orange color surface zest, then the oranges can be peeled like one regularly peels an orange of the skin (but this time just the white part).  Then pick out the stringy bits under and along the center for a ‘cleaner’ more pure relish.  Add the peeled zest along with the center fruit parts to your grind along with all the other ingredients.  It’s worth it!