A GRAIN OF TRUTH

Grains are the base, the foundation of societies, the continuation of the species – if I may be so bold to proclaim.  Vast fields spanning huge expanses of land are dedicated to the propagation of them.  Their oftimes used term ‘staff of life’ is no misnomer.  The uses, flavors and recipes for grains are so vast, I’m not going to try to give a repertoire of recipes, but lay out my perspective on the basics and treatment for attaining best flavors and textures – with a couple of examples for you to expand from.  Give it your ear.

By definition, grains, simply said, are the seeds of various grasses.  There ya are.  The most commonly known varieties are:  

WHEAT:  Wheat is perhaps the best-recognized grain in the US, if not the world.   In its whole grain form (NOT to be confused with ‘multi-grain’, ‘100% grain’ or ‘full grain’.  Whole wheat may also be found as related varieties known as ‘buckwheat’, ‘kasha’ and ‘bulgur’) it is richest in taste, fuller in texture, and most nutritious in content (in that the ‘bran’, ‘endosperm’ and ‘germ’ are still intact).  The downsides to this form are that ‘light’ bread preparations and pastries are most difficult, ‘quick’ cook methods are not feasible, and ‘mildness’ of taste is basically over-ruled.  In this form, it can be rough-cracked and softened with moisture and used in soups and breakfast cereals.  While ground fine, whole-wheat flour makes a dense, hearty bread or other baked good – even when utilizing leaveners such as sodas and yeasts – or when prepared as a flatbread (naan, tortilla, pita etc).  

In a refined form (the hull, ‘bran’ and ‘germ’ removed), it is paler in color, more susceptible to absorption of liquids and lighter in flavor and in texture.  In this form it is best known in the US, being used as  ‘pastry flour’, ‘all purpose flour’, and ‘bread flour’ – depending on the proportion of protein (in the form of gluten) in the particular variety of wheat grain selected, with ‘pastry’ being the lowest, up to ‘bread’ being the highest.  This form is more suitable with yeasts for most breads; and when whole-wheat flour is used alongside the refined, it makes a more pleasant texture.  It is usually re-fortified with vitamins, minerals and nutrients post-harvest to compensate for the losses brought on in refinement.  Choosing ‘unbleached’ is the best form of the refined option one can choose nutrition-wise.

RICE – Given more detail in the ‘rice is nice’ section of this blog.  It is found in thousands of varieties across the globe.  Like most all grains, it too has a popular use in alcoholic beverages.

CORN – Cultivated for millennia in the Americas.  The propagation has been divided into hundreds of varieties, ranging from very rustic, firm and basic for animal fodder – to very sweet, juicy and light varieties for fine dining.  It can be used fresh and consumed even raw off the cob – or dried and ground to a meal or flour.  In a ground flour or meal presentation, it has been a staple on the human plate for centuries. 

The most common whole grain corn offering is directly off the cob (in thousands of cooked and raw fashions), plus found also in the ever-popular snack – popcorn.  As an alcoholic source, corn not only is used for human consumption (ask anyone in the southern US about ‘white lightnin’), but now is also used as a fuel additive and alternate combustion option.

BARLEY, OATS AND RYE:  Lesser-known grains that are still greatly used, and known perhaps more for their contribution to alcohols and fermented presentations than a daily thought to a chewable diet.  In the US, these were more widely used in times past, and took a ‘back seat’ with the introduction of the more easily grown wheat.  They all contain much less gluten than wheat, making them a less successful option for breads as we know them.  Their flavor, texture and aromas are very unique, unlike the more ‘main-stream’ flavored wheat, making their addition to any food a very obvious one (but a good one!).  Barley makes an excellent flavor/nutrition boost to soups (turkey barley soup is my favorite), breads, cereals and pastas (with barley as an additional flour).   Oats are likewise a huge nutritional contributor, and although used greatly for animal fodder, it also has a very large place on the human plate as well.  Mostly oats are found in ‘rolled’, ‘bran’ and ‘flakes’ presentations, and claim a sizable offering with breakfast, soup, dessert and baking menus.   Rye is the least known with US homes.  It has a delicious specific taste; that as in flour form, works well with breads, crackers and other savory pastry presentations.  Like oats, it can be whole or rolled in use.

GRAIN-LIKE FOODS:  Legumes and seeds that have been used similar to grain for breads and other carbohydrate dishes are quinoa (pronounced ‘keen wah’ – a seed, but not of the grass family), wild rice (a water grass seed), lentils and chickpeas/garbanzo beans (both legumes), and ostensibly couscous (coos-coos) – a northern African grain dish that is basically a dried, crumbled pasta.

PREPARATIONS:  ROAST:  Applying indirect heat, as I have said a few times ;>) in this blog/book, one of our best taste friends is caramelization.  This rings so very true with grain preparations as well.  Like the specific seeds used for coffee and chocolate (can you imagine THEM without caramelization?), the roast has the potential for bringing enormous flavor complexities to any grain/seed dish.   This success may be accomplished through either a dry heat roast, toast or an oil fry preparation.  Roasted corn has a huge presentation selection, ranging from many Native American/Mexican/Italian sources (corn pudding, elote, polentas, salads etc) to European dishes from the east as well as the west.  Roasted cracked wheat grains and bulgurs offer a rich flavor in soups and long-cook dishes, plus offer an enlarged nutrition contribution as well.

TOAST:  Applying direct heat, like a dry frying pan or ‘toaster’ style oven brings a nice fresh ‘up-surge’ of grain flavor.  The essential oils have been encouraged, as with the other heat applications, but in this dry sense, the structure remains more ‘true’, if not wonderfully enhanced.  Toasted oats, barley, wheat (I love the smell of toast in the morning), quinoa, couscous and rye are a scent to behold.  This step as a first one makes the final dish even more richly enjoyable.

FRY:  Some rice examples, Rice Pilaf and Risotto, are prepared by sautéing the selected rice grains in butter/oil/animal fats prior to addition of the waters and liquors.  Toasted or sautéed barley introduced into a hearty soup is famous for many grandmothers to attest.  We can go on for days about fried corn (any couch potato will happily affirm), as the effort is so worth the rich tastes given.  And with wheat, the effects of fried wheat flour (a caramelized roux) are legendary in Creole and Cajun cuisines. 

MOISTURE:  A freshly roasted, toasted or fried grain will be more ‘thirsty’ for moistures to re-constitute the grain texture to an edible state.  Usually, the first moisture added to a dish after heating the grain will be the primary flavor the grain will take on into the individual granule.  Usually this flavor is found with wine in some form; but stocks/broths, flavored oils, juices and various flavored waters are used as well to a lovely success.

Some grains are very hard hulled, or densely formed, requiring that moisture be added patiently and slowly – so, as with many beans and legumes, a good overnight soak may be desired (especially with faro and rye).  Rice often is soaked for extraction of the delicate flavor and using primarily this liquid, continued further to become puddings, drinks and soups.  Dried/treated corn has been ground then re-constituted for centuries, creating many American Indian/Mexican dishes (i.e. masa), Italian polenta, as well as a mandatory Southern staple – grits. 

Some grains, if not all, are grown and/or stored in a fashion that the fine powders of other crushed grains – or a surface residue produced within the growth or storage process – may most likely cover the individual grains, affecting the final cooked tastes and textures.  Submerging, rinsing and draining the grains at least once in cool, fresh water as a basic preparation step makes a good idea for pretty much all grains you wish to use in a dish. 

Cooking most whole grains in a simmer/steam fashion requires about 40-50 minutes cooking time to soften (some after an overnight soak), while most refined grains require 20-30 minutes for their tender ‘bite’.

As with any new idea, always smell the ingredient options together under your experienced nose. Trust how it ‘sounds’ to you.  Try stepping out of your comfort zone and give new taste ideas a try.

Two of my topmost grain recipe thoughts:

ROASTED CORN, ah, roasted wonderfulness.  Of all the grain options, this is certainly one of my favorites.  There’s something about the taste of the caramelization along with the sweetness of the corn that finds such deliciousness.   Whether roasted in a hot pan (lightly oiled or non-stick), or over an open flame, or in a hot oven – the results will be almost the same – light brown edges with an occasional dark bit here and there.  Placing the un-husked cob directly on the coals in a BBQ can make a delicious roasted taste.  Just watch and sniff carefully (plus, removing the ‘silks’ is easier after the corn has cooked).  Just prior to finishing the roast, slather the naked cob in a flavor/texture ‘ointment’ that ensures the adhesion of further tastes and textures.  Some like mayonnaise (famous for just being delicious), some like butter (but try garlic and/or herb butter).  I personally found bleu cheese dressing to make a nice accompaniment to corn.  One can also try a bit of nut-butter as a base slather, starting with the famous peanut butter, but don’t stop there – cashew butter (!), almond butter – so evilly good.  Mix a portion, about a fourth, with three-quarters cow’s milk butter, and use as you would table butter. 

Returning the cob to roast just a bit further (in the case of the BBQ, this time the peeled back corn is set on the grill) sets this ‘slather’ well into the flavor of the corn.  The roasted coating you choose also makes a great adhesion for just one more flavor and texture layer.  Some like grated Parmesan, Grana padano or Cotija cheeses.  Some like crushed nuts/seeds – try sesame, sunflower or caraway seeds!  Some like crushed prepared snack foods like potato chips, corn chips or salty pretzels.  Some also like to sprinkle roasted spices or fresh herbs:  Cumin, paprika, cayenne – it would seem they are made to go with corn.  When all is done, after all the roast, try adding fresh chopped cilantro, thyme, dill and/or tarragon.   And always, salt and pepper.  Remember, your dining guests will most likely have these messy ingredients up their cheeks, and perhaps in their ears, so lavish this dish with only your closest friends! 

A safer ‘less-mess’ version, corn pudding, is almost the same ingredients and options, but the corn is trimmed first, the ‘corn milk’ squee-gee’d off the cob, the corn and sugars slow roasted together with the flavorants, with milk and eggs into a custardy, rich, very flavorful mass.  Yowza.

RICE PUDDING – Another wonderfully delicious taste, and so many versions and preparations for it.  Some choose to start with raw rice (a short grain or arborio), and cook it in three times the volume of milk or half-half (cream is just too rich).  This makes a lovely textural and rich rice, but the ease of scorching the milk is very high – so proceed with caution, stirring often, like risotto.  Sometimes soaking the rice in water and/or milk several hours to overnight will ease the final heat preparation a bit (use the soaking liquid in the cook as well).  When tender, almost mushy and just barely approaching dry, the rice is then mixed with a selection of ‘creamy’ ingredients such as sweet potato mash, pumpkin pie (canned or fresh) filling, nut butters, preserves/jams/marmelades, mashed soft fruits such as very ripe bananas, mangoes, papaya and/or persimmon – even a portion of canned sweetened condensed milk along with canned evaporated milk, which may then be slow baked or stove-top cooked till thick like porridge, and is only limited by your imagination. 

Other versions call for cooked rice, this time long grain (used while warm and soft).  In this preparation, the pudding is prepared as if a custard, with eggs as the gentle thickener.   Either full eggs for a lighter texture, or egg yolks alone for a denser finish.  Simmered in a milk base, with sugar, sweetened condensed milk and/or honey/molasses/maple as well as barley or agave syrups and brought to a careful finish by either baked in a bain-marie (water bath) low and untouched – or roasted dry and stirred occasionally – or very low stove top with careful stirring and blending.

Flavor and texture additions can be diced dried or fresh fruits (dark or golden raisins, dried cherries, dried cranberries/Craisins, dried pineapple, dried apricots/peaches/strawberries etc, dates, currants, figs, fresh berries, fresh cherries, fresh apples/peaches/plums, segments of citrus – oranges, limes, lemons – with their juices added into the original bake). 

Spicing can be the usual cinnamon and vanilla – but try cardamom, nutmeg, cayenne and/or just a hint of allspice.   Almond extract at the finish, simply a breath of luscious.

Subtle textures can be chewy, as in the dried fruits, but a mild crunch may be asserted with nuts, seeds, fresh crunch fruits diced small (apples, pears, jicama, celery etc) or crushed candies and/or candy bars – Butterfinger anyone?   In the warm pudding, try stirring in shaved or morsel bits of chocolate, white chocolate, butterscotch, caramel – yes, it’s bad but so good.

In a stew

CIOPPINO

a fish gathering   
serves six to eight 

Cioppino (chuh-peen-oh) sounds really Italian.  Like Chop Suey sounds so Asian. 

Well, with all best intents, according to somewhat trustworthy lore, Cioppino started on the docks of San Francisco with all the fish mongers at their stalls ‘chipping in’ for the day’s market communal fish stew.  That became a song of sorts as purveyors often make, singing ‘chip-in-Oh!’ while soliciting for the fish sellers to contribute – which evolved to what we now know. 

Heat oven to 400°

Tools:  5 quart Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, rimmed sheet pan or cookie sheet, large fry/saute pan, mid-sized bowl

Prep:  Fresh or fresh thawed fish, cut to bite-sized or just larger.  Shell the shrimp (some choose to leave the tail on for a ‘handle’ but I find it inconvenient in soups and salads) – best if de-veined and butterflied (partially slit down the back to curl inside out when cooked - it makes a great ‘bite’ texture for shrimp).  Scrub the bi-shelled creatures' surfaces well of dirt and grit.  Some folks prep clams and oysters by placing the live shell creatures in a swirled bath of cool fresh water and a sprinkle of corn meal, which the creature exchanges for the grit it has in its interior (which takes about two hours to half a day).  When ‘bearding’ clams/oysters – the removal of the stringy, tough fibers near the hinge – do not do so until just ready to cook.  The removal of the ‘beard’ will begin the demise of the creature, and doing this any lengthy time in advance will definitely undermine the success of your dish. 

Overcooking is a big deal with fish as well.  Every effort against that malady is foremost in this recipe.

3-5 cloves garlic, peeled, medium-thin sliced
            (but grouped together single layer when roasting)

2    bell peppers (color your choice, red is sweetest),

cut into small bite-sized strips

2    small onions, halved pole to pole, cut off ends and peeled,

sliced in small wedges like an orange

2    medium carrots, small bite-sized diced

3-4 stalks celery, small bite-sized diced

1-3 peppers (jalapeno or Serrano) stemmed,

seeded, diced small
            AND/OR 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

1    smallish bulb fennel, sliced quarter-moons 

2    tbs olive oil

salt and pepper

3-4 lbs fish (fresh or fresh thawed!) your call – crab and lobster (pre-cooked, shelled), shrimp (peeled), scallops, oysters, clams, mussels, squid/calamari (cleaned), plus a good hearty white fish like cod, haddock, scrod, trout, tilapia, etc (diced 1-2 inch cubes).  If using shell/bivalve fish options like oysters, mussels and clams, at least double that specific amount in weight (you don’t eat those heavy shells!)

1   pkg salt pork or fatback, about 10-12 oz,

skin removed, rinsed well, diced ¼ inch

2-3  lbs tomatoes, diced medium small plus 1 cup broth,

or 1  28 oz can whole tomatoes, juice and all

1   cup dry white wine

2   quarts chicken stock and/or fish stock 

(watch sodiums and salts)

2   bottles clam juice

1   tsp oregano or 1  tbs  fresh minced

1   tsp dill or 1 tbs fresh minced

1   tsp thyme  or 1 tbs fresh minced
2   3-4 inch peel (color only, no white) orange peel

1   bay leaf

pinch saffron (optional but so nice)

1   tbs (splash) red wine, champagne or sherry vinegar

several glugs or ¼  cup brandy, Courvoisier, cognac,

Armagnac – optional but again so nice

fresh finely diced parsley and basil with just a tiny bit of
            fresh mint and rosemary

Preparation:  Place vegetable pieces in bowl, drizzle oil over, toss and cover all the bits.  Spread out on a baking sheet and salt and pepper.  Place in hot (400°) oven and roast for ten to fifteen minutes, flipping over halfway through.   Place the fish bits in the bowl and do the same oil drizzle and toss.  Remove hot sheet pan from oven and carefully relocate veggies to half of the pan, then place large fin-type fish pieces which are thicker on pan first.  Return to oven for 2-3 minutes, remove, then add shrimp, calamari and/or scallops in with the half-roasted vegetables and fish chunks – plus a fresh sprinkling of salt and pepper – and return to hot oven (could be reset to 'broil') for another four to six minutes (not flipping, watch carefully) until no longer translucent – lightly golden and just underdone (but definitely NOT overdone).

Meanwhile, in the cool stockpot or Dutch oven, add pork bits and bring both pan and bits to heat together.  When beginning to sizzle and color, add the vinegar and let sputter till almost dry, then add the dried spices/bay leaf stirring well, and let bloom a few minutes in the fats.  Next add the tomatoes, wine, clam juice and broth bringing to a bold simmer and adjust flame to support that simmer while carefully breaking apart the tomatoes.  Now add orange peels and reduce liquid content by a quarter to blend and strengthen flavors.  Next carefully add the clams, oysters and mussels.  Simmer gently, covered, while shellfish open and come to perfect done (around three-five minutes) – releasing their 'liquor' into the broth.  Now sprinkle over with fresh herbs if chosen.  When the roasted vegetables and fish in the oven have come ready (fish just under-done), remove and add to the tomato/shellfish mix (separate the garlic and mash well, then blend well with a bit of the broth in a cup and return to the stew) and bring to heat gently until all the shellfish have nicely finished cooking or opened (remove any shells that won’t).  Taste and adjust seasonings.
 

Lastly add the brandy and final fresh herbs, along with any pre-cooked fish (lobster, crab etc), simmering very softly just until you can’t stand it anymore (mostly residual heat to bring all to same heat level) – bring to the table – and serve in a generous bowl with a ‘knob’ of fresh sweet butter on top and a wedge or two of lemon on the side, along with the sourest, crustiest sourdough bread you can find.

Options: Potatoes or pasta may be added, but best if pre-cooked, and added at the final simmer (or in the case of pasta, served over at plating).   Cream always is welcome, but the richness of this dish doesn't require such a final heart confrontation.  But your likes can decide.

BEEF STEW 

Stroganoff meets Bourguignon     serves six to eight

I love both beef stroganoff and also beef bourguignon, so my bent way of thinking thought 'why not trying the two styles together?'  It may have been a long work-week, or a Saturday of wine tasting, I don’t know, but it worked out terrific.  Once upon a time I made beef stroganoff with pickles in it (I had read that this was a traditionally original addition), so with the idea that I love pickles with hamburgers, which is also a foundational beef taste, I gave it a shot.  I loved it.  So, you should too, just don’t overcook them.  Here’s that wild mix of traditions, I hope you like it as much as I did.  I just hope I can remember what I did!

Heat oven to mild heat 275-300°

Tools:  Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, saute/skillet pan

Ingredients:

3-4 lbs beef (chuck roast, top round, loin etc)

           trimmed of gristle, hard fat and/or silverskin,

           cut into bite-sized strips (1 x 2 x ¾)

¼   cup of my spice rub (equal parts – or 1 tbs each –

           paprika, powdered mustard, garlic powder, salt)

2    tsp ground pepper

1    tsp dried thyme

¼   cup flour

2    tbs oil (canola, peanut, vegetable, safflower)
2    tbs butter

2    cups (1 pint) dry red wine (burgundy, pinot noir, merlot)

1    pkg (about 8 oz) fatback/salt pork, trimmed

           of thick skin, rinsed, diced about ¼ inch

1    lb sliced mushrooms

2 medium-sized carrots, sliced at sharp diagonal, 
           then cut in half, lengthwise
1    lb pearl onions (pkg frozen, thawed is great)

1    tbs tomato paste

4    cups (1 quart) chicken or chicken/beef combined broth/stock
1    cup coffee, freshly brewed and strong

2    tbs Hoisin sauce
¼   cup rich fruit jelly - cherry, currant, grape etc.

¼   cup bread and butter pickle slices, cut

           into ‘matchstick’ strips, plus 1 tbs jar vinegar

3-4 green onions, both white and green parts, sliced medium-fine

¼   cup dry sherry    
½   package plain gelatin, bloomed/dissolved in sherry
splash cognac or balsamic vinegar

      1    cup sour cream, yogurt, Greek yogurt

Preparation:  Mix spice rub, pepper, thyme and flour in paper or zip lock bag.  Place meat bits in bag, puff of air and seal.  Shake till all the meat pieces are well covered and remove the bits, saving the left-over powder mix.  In large, broad-bottomed, coverable oven-safe pan (Dutch oven is perfect), heat oil and butter till water has simmered out of butter and just beginning to brown and place meat bits in single layer to sauté, flipping till all pieces are browned.  Cover the simmering meat bits in the wine, coffee and half the broth, bring back to a boil, reduce to a simmer and place in low heated oven, covered, for one and a half hours.  Check occasionally for dryness, stir it all up a bit, and add only tiny bits of broth or more wine if necessary.  The last half-hour, add the wine/gelatin mix.  Stir well.

While the meat is braising, in large cool skillet, place pork bits and bring both pan and pork to heat, until sizzling.  Stir occasionally till just beginning to brown all sides.  Add carrots and pearl onions and bring all to a nice golden, then add the tomato paste.  Allow the paste to brown a bit – stirring into the mass – then dust the leftover flour/herb mix over all the bits and stir into the fat briefly until aroma arises.  Add the mushrooms, Hoisin sauce, jelly and second half of the broth, carefully stir well, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer - simmering long enough to ensure good blending of the dry and wet ingredients and the tenderizing of the vegetables, and to reduce the liquids some (about ten to fifteen minutes), then remove from fire and hold.

At the end of the hour and a half, remove the covered meat from the oven, test for tenderness, and if satisfied - place on low-heated stovetop.  Combine the skillet mix into the braised meat, blend well and continue to heat gently for ten to fifteen minutes more.  Add the green onions, pickles, vinegar, and simmer for five minutes longer and add the liquor and/or balsamic vinegar.  Adjust seasonings and thickness if desired.  At serving add the sour cream/yogurt - the overall color is best if not blended in but rather dolloped over.

Options:  more veggies is never a bad idea.  Celery/celery root, potatoes, turnips, greens, peas (frozen at the last is easiest and best) and/or squash - and more - can always be considered for a greatly hearty stew, as your 'ear' thinks - or what you may have leftover!  

Serve over sturdy, flat, buttered noodles (homemade or dried) – or crushed butter-fried pre-baked (or boiled) potatoes – or in a tortilla – or on rice.  Hey, you decide.



CHICKEN GUISADA
(gee–sah–dah)
serves six to ten

Some folks get the term guisada mixed up with the term asada.  Well, basically - the first is meat prepared braised till very tender in a sauce or gravy, while asada is meat prepared on a grill or a dry heat preparation till caramelized and a great chew.  There, now you're fluent in Spanglish.

Stewed chicken, nothing new here – but this variety will make a nice surprise.  Use it as a filling for tacos, or even more continentally, stuffed in hollowed out breads, or in puff-pastry or pita shells, or with risotto or penne, or add to leftover soup, or humbly sopped on a rustic crust in one hand and hearty cheese in the other.

Tools:  stockpot, cutting board, frying or sauté pan

Prep:  There is now offered in most every supermarket out there a variety of chicken presentations in the frozen foods section.  Most helpful is the selection that offers individually frozen chicken parts – such as skinned, boneless thighs or breasts or tenders.

Other companion ingredients are vegetables and spices, so the creation is not difficult, and the rewards are huge.

Ingredients:    

            3-4   pounds frozen or fresh chicken pieces

            1½   lbs tomatoes (drained canned whole 28 oz,

                        or fresh), roughly diced

1     tbs dried crushed basil or ¼ cup fresh leaves,

          then chopped

             ¼   cup olive, grapeseed and/or canola oil           

1     lbs carrots diced, ½ to ¾ inch

3    stalks celery diced ½ to ¾ inch

2     medium onions diced ½ to ¾ inch

              2    small or one large mild green peppers, roasted,

                        peeled:  bell, poblano and/or New Mexico,

diced ½ to ¾ inch or 1 or 2   7oz canned mild

chiles (as you prefer), diced (peeling not absolutely 

necessary because of size of dice)

3     cloves garlic, chopped/minced fine

            1-2   jalapeños or Serranos, stemmed, seeded if desired,

                        chopped fine

1     tbs oregano
salt and pepper, to taste

Preparation:  In a large stockpot, place chicken parts (frozen or not) in lightly salted water, till just covering the chicken.  Add the basil and bring to boil, lower to simmer and cook covered until the chicken is done.  Remove from broth, allowing broth to continue at high heat, uncovered to reduce.  Let the chicken parts cool enough to remove skin and de-bone if necessary, and cut or tear into inch or so sized chunks.  Replace chicken to reduced broth, add the tomatoes and continue to cook, reduced to a simmer again – and encourage the meat fibers to ‘break up’ in construction, agitating with spoon or spatula or potato masher.  Simmer until the tomatoes have mostly broken down, the broth has considerably reduced and thickened (almost dissipated but very moist), and the chunks have tenderized to a shred.

Meanwhile, you have placed in a medium-hot sauté pan:  the oil, heated well, and added all the vegetables, cooking till tender, then add the garlic and oregano, a pinch of salt and pepper and have been sautéing these elements patiently at a medium light sizzle temperature until they are like candy – sweet, caramelized and just tender, about fifteen or twenty minutes (the time it took to prepare the chicken till ready).

Finally, carefully join the vegetables, spices, juices and oils with the simmered chicken.    You’ve created a masterpiece!

Options:  Try this folded in with, or just presented under, the green chile sauce (in this book) – wonderful together.

Add along with it:  diced or sliced fresh hot peppers, pickled peppers and onions, chopped cilantro, sautéed mushrooms, diced cherry peppers, diced olives (black and/or green), corn kernels, shredded cheese, grated radishes, sour cream or thickened yogurt. Try any of the above with:  A taco with queso fresco and shredded cabbage; with lettuce, fresh tomato and raw onion on a slice of crusty bread; like a hash, with cracked eggs baked on top; or as a stuffing for peppers, tomatoes, pork chops or pita. 

Anybody hungry?

Getting SAUCED

The sauce can be the magic in a dish.  It can transform a bland portion of meat or fish into a delicious and elegant surprise.  A sauce can make leftovers become ‘firstovers’, and the potential for texture, flavor and just plain fun is as broad as your imagination.

Half of these sauces are already here in this book.  And some will be completely new to you, but I’m putting all of them together here for organization ease and for a perspective.  Read them knowing that the sauce need not be applied merely as I have offered here in my posted recipes, but rather see the sauce is a tool - a cooking associate – that can be used as easily or as complexly as your heart and ‘ear’ can imagine.

I’ll separate the offerings in categories as to how they might be used, and you can take it from there. 

GETTING STARTED - Most successful sauces will start with the FOND, or caramelization that is left in the saute pan after grilling meats and vegetables to caramelized perfection.  This fond is eventually dissolved by a thin liquid, usually stock/broth, wine, water, juices, vinegars and/or bottled sauces.

We’ll allow that most all these sauces begin this way:  The meat ingredient will be browned first (great to use the ‘spice rub’ for meats; or if vegetarian – use the ‘spice rub’ as well, on the main vegetable or tofu that is sautéed to a golden caramelization) and then removed from the pan while the sauce is being prepared. 

Next into the pan will be the aromatic vegetables - that are basic yet so very magical – as in the faithful onion, celery, shallot, carrot and peppers; plus the bulb vegetables perhaps, such as fennel, leek, and green onion might be chosen.  After the initial heat has been neutralized by the addition and softening of these vegetables (and in some cases, caramelization), then some richly flavored yet delicately structured additions such as garlic, ginger, fresh ground spices and dried herbs are added to bloom and blend.   As these all subside, then the liquid solvent, or the ‘de-glaze’ is poured into the sizzling mass and all is carefully stirred up from the surface of the pan, always simmering gently to bring all the flavors together like a family reunion.

Finally the sauce will be reduced to a gentle simmer and the meat introduced (or returned) to finish. 

Some of these sauces I’ve used for years yet have no real answer to give for their origin other than my ‘ear’.  Some are age-old, and are basically an institution all their own.  And some only make logical sense with the flavor ingredients selected being just wonderful ingredients without introduction necessary. 

Sauces to quick braise or re-heat prepared meats/vegetables in:

Several of these following sauces use bottled or prepared ingredients (I know, I know), so allow that sodiums and salts are in play outside the cook’s control - so as always, TASTE as you go, and salt and season only when necessary after tasting.  I won’t list salt and pepper for laziness sake, I’ll let you decide on that.

Proportions given are for about four servings, approximately.

New York:  ½ cup chicken broth, 2-3 tbs balsamic vinegar, 1 tbs Worcestershire sauce - Simmered together till a thickened gentle bubble; then the chicken/beef/pork bits, diced vegetables (defrosted frozen selections can be just fine here – I like the ‘stir fry’ frozen vegetable option with mushrooms and sugar snap peas) may be tossed and sautéed at a new high temp till all coated and warmed and appearing as a glaze.  Serve with pasta, potatoes or rice (I like the spiral ‘fusilli’).

Tokyo:  ¼ cup Soy sauce (look for low sodium), ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup mirin (a sweet rice wine for cooking), 2 tbs ea Hoisin sauce and rice vinegar, 1 tbs each oyster sauce and light brown sugar, juice squeezed of one lime and a bit of the zest, ½ to 1 tsp fresh grated ginger (or half tsp dried if that's all you have), 1 clove minced garlic - Simmered together till slightly reduced; then prepared fowl/chicken, meats, fish and vegetable portions may be introduced and simmered submerged (braised) till warmed through. May then be removed, drained and re-grilled briefly after simmering to caramelize the surface coating.  Serve drained of sauce, the sauce then served as a dipping side with fresh chopped green onions added.  Serve with rice or Asian style (‘glass’, mung bean, ‘cellophane’, rice stick) noodles.

Paris:  1 lime-sized shallot diced fine (or a small, sweet, gentle onion), ½ pound mushrooms sliced, 2 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sherry, ½ cup broth, ¼ cup cream/canned milk – Aromatics and vegetables sautéed first to tender, then broth/wine added to deglaze and reduce.  Cream/canned milk added as a final blend and thickener.  Meats, fishes, poultry, shellfish added to warm through.  Serve with mashed potatoes, pasta, rice or toasted breads.

Mumbai:  1 bell pepper sliced in strips, 1 small onion sliced half-moons, 2-3 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sweet paprika, 2 tbs red curry, 2 tbs to ¼ cup slivered almonds or nut of your choice, ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup coconut milk or yogurt – simmer to thick and smooth, add prepared roasted or BBQ meats/fishes, vegetables (winter squashes are great here) and simmer to thick and perfect.  Serve with rice, tabouli, cous-cous, garbanzo beans or quinoa.

Mexico City:  Chipotle plum sauce – refer to the recipe in this book (under 'Comfort - south of the border' - 'Pulled pork'), great with pork, roasted meats, fishes and fowls, BBQ, although a bit strong for shellfish.  Serve with corn/flour tortillas, pasta, rice, prepared potato dishes, or polenta.  

Milan:  virgin olive oil; 2 cloves fine diced garlic; 2-3 mashed anchovies (or 1 tsp anchovy paste); 1 small bulb sliced fennel; 1 small onion and 1 rib celery diced fine; ½ tsp each oregano and thyme; ¼ tsp each pepper flakes and crushed black pepper corns; 1 tbs. capers; small diced eggplant (about two cups raw); ½ lbs. tomatoes diced medium; ¼ cup rough-chopped black and green olives; lemon zest and juice; ¼ cup stock; splash wine/sherry; splash sherry vinegar.  Gently saute solid bits till tender, then add liquids and simmer all together and slightly reduce, introduce meats/ fishes/ fowl.  Serve with pasta, toast, rice, polenta, and/or over bitter greens.

Sauces to braise raw or par-cooked meats/vegetables in:

         Proportions are given with each recipe.

MARINARA  - TIMELESS TOMATO

Marinara is usually thought dully as a plain red sauce – or a bit more descriptive -- a ‘meatless’ pasta sauce.  But it’s so, so much more; this just ain’t no spaghetti sauce.  Marinara is an all-encompassing association between two or more separate ingredients.  A ‘catalyst’ if you will, as in science – multiple elements working more intensely and deeply after the ‘introduction’ of another element.  Marinara works with many foods, more than just pasta alone, which I might add, is a big deal right there.  Dozens of varieties of meats have roasted with it, tasty residents of the sea have braised in it, and gardens of vegetables have found happy endings in it.  And of course, we have the miraculous, infamous PIZZA!

I’m giving two basic foundations for presentation of the timeless, humble marinara.  You may take other ingredients and mix or change as you wish, but I’ll give you a place where you can start.  Following first is a slow and lovely preparation that will have everyone thinking you’re a magician; and after that a freshly wonderful and savory preparation that is ready in the time it takes to cook the pasta.

Both are perfect and delicious, and have their place on any table.

ROMA SLOW – Marinara Ebbro  (maree-nara ay-bro, Italian for ‘drunken’)  

serves four to six, with pasta or . . .

Preheat oven to 350°      Makes about a quart-and-a-half to two quarts

Tools: 3-4 quart Dutch oven, or similar even-heating oven-capable container with lid; food processor; cutting board

Ingredients: 

 2-3    tbs olive oil

2     small or one medium onions,

                peeled, rough chopped  

2     stalks celery, rough chopped

3     small to medium carrots, peeled,

                rough chopped

 2-4    cloves garlic, rough chopped

½    tsp each salt and pepper

½    tsp red pepper flakes

2     tbs tomato paste

1     tsp dried oregano

1     tsp dried sage

¾-1   cup vodka

2     28 oz cans whole tomatoes, drained

   ½    pint  (one cup) chicken, veal and/or

                  vegetable stock (or for vegetarian,

                  use drained canned tomato juice)              

   ½    pint (one cup) heavy cream, room

                  temperature or warmed (carefully

                  in microwave on 30%)

1     clove garlic, chopped fine         

1-2     bay leaves (depending on size and potency)

salt and pepper to taste (remember that canned

               tomatoes and other canned

               ingredients have sodium)

4-6     fresh basil leaves, cut in medium chop

                  or rolled and cut in chiffonade   

1     tbs chopped fresh oregano

Preparation:  While heating the oil in the pan, place the rough chopped vegetables, tomato paste, salt/pepper and dry oregano and sage in the food processor and pulse to a coarse ‘relish’ grade of chop.  Place this mix into the hot oil, reduce the heat to medium, and slowly bring to translucence, stirring regularly, and continue on carefully to rich golden brown, about fifteen to twenty minutes.  Remove the pan from the fire to add the vodka (see flavored vodkas in this book) and stir well, deglazing the pan of the vegetable fond and working the liquor into the mass, then raise the heat to medium-high.  After a few minutes of reduction, add the stock, stir well.  Next add the tomatoes, carefully crushing apart by hand as you add each one to the mass, stirring once in a while.  As the mass simmers and begins to reduce, add the bay leaves and the last clove of finely chopped garlic.  When the pot again comes to heat, cover and place in the pre-heated oven for about an hour and a half (may remain covered, on low fire, on top of stove -- but carefully monitored and stirred with a flat-bottomed wood spatula to avoid scorching).  The last half hour may be simmered uncovered if a thicker sauce is desired.  Last, remove bay leaves, add the fresh basil and fresh oregano and finish with the warmed cream stirred into the hot sauce, adjust seasonings.  Always, you gotta have fresh-grated Parmesan over and stirred in. 

Almost like a plane ticket to Rome!

ROMA QUICK – Puttanesca    (poo-tan-ess-ka)                                                    

serves two (appropriately)

Food history is seemingly always information of interest, especially when that history has great provenance to the dish.  Then there are examples where we have history that doesn’t really matter, but is fun to know all the same. Well, puttana is a professional label in Italy.  So this sauce is named in reference to that profession.  Ah, yes, for the Italian ladies of the evening, those busy hard-working gals who needed to put together something quick and tasty between, ahem, customers.  Us ‘new world’ folk need to get a bit more inventive with our etymology, I’d say.

 

Tools:  Large sauté or frying pan; pot for boiling pasta, if desired; cutting board

Prep:  Traditionally, the pasta is begun first, and while it boils, the sauce is prepared.  Yes, that quick.  Dicing and cutting the ingredients before anything is begun and having them at the ready is a best idea.  This dish is intended to be a fast fix and to taste fresh, so acquire the best and freshest ingredients possible for the maximum flavor.  When preparing the pasta, drain it with the colander set over the serving bowl or dish, to warm it.  Retain about a quarter cup of the pasta water for the final sauce assemblage.

Ingredients:

¼     cup extra virgin olive oil

2      lbs fresh ripe tomatoes (best cherry or grape type) in season, 
               diced ½ inch, or 1-28 oz can quality whole tomatoes,

               drained, chopped ½ inch, save liquid 

1      small red or sweet cipollini onion, diced ¼ inch

2      tbs (splash) dry white wine or good dry sherry

½     tsp each salt and pepper (salt introduction is reduced

               because of the other salted/brined ingredients)

4-8     anchovy fillets (dry pack is best; for canned,

                   find small-boned quality variety) or 1 tbs paste

¼     tsp red pepper flakes

3      garlic cloves, diced fine, sliced paper thin, or minced

  1-2    tsp capers, drained, rough chopped

¼     cup coarsely chopped pitted black olives

               (Calamata or preferred quality cured variety)

¼     cup fresh Italian parsley, medium-rough chopped

  3-4    tbs grated Parmesan

3-4     leaves fresh basil, freshly rough-chopped

                    just prior to adding

Preparation: Prepare the pasta for two, usually 1/4 to 1/3 pound (penne rigate, tagliatelle, fettuccini, linguini, gnocchi, spaghetti, etc – angel hair is too fine, vermicelli is the finest I’d recommend).  Bring three or four quarts of well-salted water to boil, add pasta, stir, and give the eight to ten minutes of boiling time to the sauce.  In medium hot skillet, add the oil, anchovy fillets and pepper flakes and gently render the fillets away to ‘nothing’, mashing with the back of the wooden spoon into the oil, about three or four minutes.  Halfway into this happening, add the garlic and onions and sauté gently till tender and any ‘rawness’ is removed.  Splash in the wine/sherry and tomato liquid, simmer down till thick.  Add the tomatoes, olives, capers and parsley and bring just to a simmer.  Fold in the drained al dente pasta and the reserved quarter cup of pasta water, lastly the Parmesan and basil, briefly crank up the heat and bring to steaming, stirring/folding to mix.  Salt and pepper only if needed.  The olives (you could try with green alone or mixed as well), anchovies, and capers are prepared with salt, and the red pepper flakes should suffice nicely for the heat spike.  But as always, taste first. 

Serve right away -- top with more fresh grated Parmesan cheese and smile, amico! 

Eat, now go back to work.

ROMA BASIC marinara option:  If you desire a quick ‘standard’ basic marinara with a bit more of a cooked flavor – or for the use as an ingredient in another recipe (pizza, lasagna, parmesana etc) is what you desire:  Simply sautéing one onion diced small in olive oil, adding a teaspoon or so of dried oregano and a half tsp of salt and a hefty pinch each of dried sage (double it if fresh, minced) and pepper flakes to the oil and onions.  When tender, fold in a clove or two of minced garlic till the fragrance rises, then a 28 oz can of broken apart whole or chopped tomatoes and simmer semi-covered until thickened and broken down just a bit – about ten to fifteen minutes.  Finish with fresh chiffonade of basil and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and there ya are.

Options to all the above:  You can never go wrong with mushrooms.  Never.  I think I’d eat mushroom ice cream if someone offered it to me.  But stay simple with these recipes, that’s their strength. 

The following serve about four -

SANTA FE:  ½ cup Kahlua, ¼ cup minced ginger, ½ cup marmalade (or apricot preserves), pinch cayenne and splash of water – blend and simmer to a thick ‘paintable’ texture.  With meats, roasts and saute, baste every ten minutes or so, over roast  surfaces (pork/ham, turkey, beef, salmon, squashes, sweet potatoes) for the last half hour to hour prior to finish – serve with anything.

LOS ANGELES:  ½ cup dry wine, 1 cup chicken broth, 1 medium onion or shallot, 2 stalks celery, ½ cup orange juice and/or red grapefruit juice, pinch cumin – blend ingredients and simmer meats/fishes/fowl and vegetables for a quarter of an hour (pre-diced sized allows for cooking time).  Remove solids from liquid, simmer to reduce sauce by at least half and serve over.  Serve with mashed potatoes, rice, bitter greens/baby greens salad or BBQ anything.

EAR:  Any of the salsas in this book – mostly as with Plum loco, Salsa Sorpresa, salsa verde, Tomatillo/avocado, red salsa, and black bean/mango salsas, may be spooned over the roasted or grilled meats at serving, or over the meats and/or vegetables fifteen minutes prior to finish and roasted briefly to impart flavors into the dish.  Serve with anything.

TACOMA:  Pomegranate cherry sauce – refer to recipe in the book (under 'pork tenderloin').  Simmer meats briefly in sauce or ladle sauce over roasting/BBQ meats.  Serve with rice, pasta, potatoes, polenta, cous-cous, etc.

OAXACA:  Tomatillo chile – refer to recipe in this book (under 'salsas'). Braise meats in sauce till done, or prepare/BBQ meats in advance and serve with a pond of the sauce under.

Sauces to ladle over or serve at the side:

CHEESE SAUCE – béchamel base – ¼ cup each butter and flour: three cheeses (your choice, but white cheddar, jack or pepper jack and cream cheese are a good sample, about 6-8 ounces each), ¼ cup wine/sherry, 2 cups chicken broth, ½ cup cream or canned evaporated milk, whisper of nutmeg – serve over pasta, prepared meats/fowl nuggets/fish, toast, French fries or any fried/baked potato, vegetables, meatloaf or sausages, veggie/chips dip

NUT SAUCE - Roast about a cup of nut choice (almond slivers, cashews, walnut/pecan/macadamia pieces) in the oven till lightly golden.  Let cool.  Place in blender (best) or processor and patiently grind to a ‘flour’, then add a third cup of sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt etc, a half cup of milk/evaporated milk, a pinch of salt and a splash of lemon juice, blend WELL till like a thick cream, and finally add just a part of a glug, about a tsp, of pure maple syrup (go light, or a tbs of honey if you prefer) for a finish.  Return to low heat and bring just to a simmer, re-blending if necessary. The nut sauce works with savory or sweet, and your choice of optional accompanying enhancement ingredients (very small amounts – a ‘pinch’) will dictate that direction – like whether garlic or ginger, cumin or nutmeg, cayenne or mint, wine or vanilla, mustard or citrus zest – serve over vegetables, chiles rellenos, meat/poultry/fishes, pasta, rice or BBQ’d anything.  

CILANTRO CREAM SAUCE - Blend one or two bunches of fresh rough-chopped cilantro tops and the slender upper stems, limejuice, fresh garlic, salt and pepper with sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt in the blender/food processor till lightly green and very aromatic.  Fold in fine-diced green onions, fresh cilantro leaves and/or chopped chives after blending – serve over fruits, vegetables, salads, chiles rellenos, prepared meats/BBQ, tacos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

MILD ROASTED CHILE CREAM SAUCE - Use either one or two roasted, seeded and peeled poblano peppers or purchase a can or cans (7 to 14 oz, as you prefer) of mild green chiles and whirl in the processor with three-quarters cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a pinch each of salt, cayenne and cumin – serve over any roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, salads, rice, veggie/chip dip

AVOCADO CREAM SAUCE - Just whirl in the processor two peeled and diced avocados with a quarter cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a quarter cup rough chopped cilantro, a good squeeze of lime, and a healthy pinch each of salt and cayenne pepper – serve over roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, rellenos, veggie/chip dip.

AVOCADO TOMATILLO CREAM SAUCE – simply blend together the prepared tomatillo sauce in this book with one or two peeled and pitted avocados (depending on size) – serve over roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, chiles rellenos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

GRAVIES – chicken - see under ‘fried chicken’ in this book; turkey – see under ‘oink gravy’ in this book; sausage – béchamel base (1/4 cup each butter and flour), splash wine or sherry, 2 cups each canned milk and broth/stock, 2/3 to one pound sautéed ground sausage of your choice with fine diced onions and minced garlic, sautéed and drained; beef – pulse grind in processor to a ‘relish’ - onions, celery, carrots and mushrooms (about a half cup of each) plus a minced garlic clove or two, and saute in butter and oil mix (great if a fried fond is available from previously cooked beef) with a pinch of salt and pepper at low and slow till deep brown.  Deglaze with dry wine or sherry splash and 2-3 cups beef broth.  Thicken with flour roux, corn starch or potato flour, a healthy splash of Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce to taste and ¼ cup cream or canned milk optional.  Thin if necessary with more milk or stock/broth.  Sauteed mushrooms may be added for more savory flavor – you know how to serve gravy.

TZATZIKI SAUCE/GREEK YOGURT - The basis for Greek yogurt is that it is a richer, thicker and less slippery version than traditional US market yogurts.

So, let’s Greek up our yogurt!  In a good sized sieve or strainer, lay out fine cheesecloth, quality ‘cloth like’ paper towels or coffee filters, and fill with a good quality, live culture, plain (not vanilla) yogurt.  I’d go for at least a quart (4 cups), and store it sealed in the fridge.  Believe me, you’ll use it.  Set the strainer over a bowl in the refrigerator and let drain.  The longer the better, but remember that yogurt will absorb other flavors present with it in the fridge.  It can be set inside a larger sealable bag (a clean kitchen sized trash bag is perfect), but just take care handling all the potential gloppy parts, twisting well the open end and setting that twist under the bowl.  After a few hours or overnight, give it a look.  You’ll think you have ‘cream cheese’, or at least ‘sour cream’ (depending on how long you let it set).  The ‘mouth feel’ is great, the flavor is tangy and rich, and the replacement value for fattier foods is huge.  Give it a try where mayonnaise would be used:  sandwiches, mac/ potato/ chicken/ crab/ shrimp salads, dips, sauces, devilled eggs or sweet/savory custards.  The thickened Greek yogurt, or the mixed Tzatziki sauce may be returned to the original yogurt container for refrigerator storage.

As a cool topping for spicy BBQ meat, rich game or fowl, spicy vegetables or just over a potato, here is the rich and tangy Tzatziki sauce.  The base for Tzatziki sauce is Greek yogurt, which if you need to, may also be purchased under that name. 

It’s a delicious Greek topping for gyros, but made of a mix of flavors you well know, so it isn’t all that exotic or intimidating.

Just mix the quart of thickened yogurt with:

  

 1     grated (peeled and seeded) smallish cucumber

            (small is better than large for texture and flavor

             1     tbs fresh dill, minced or ½ tbs dried

          2-3     cloves minced garlic, roasted or raw

          1-2     tbs lemon juice and/or tasty gentle vinegar like

                         sherry vinegar, rice wine or grape wine vinegar

  

            Salt and pepper to taste

Add to this for fun – a pinch cayenne or several shakes of hot sauce; Worcestershire sauce; mashed or diced avocado; minced sun-dried tomatoes, black or green olives, capers, sweet onion; or pickled or brined red peppers.   The cucumbers and onions can be pickled instead (recipe in this book) and then chopped and added to the mix.   Tired of dill?  (Like, if ever)  Well then, try mint, basil or tarragon – or add them with!  Serve with roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, vegetable/chip dip, replace any sour cream or mayonnaise element in most dishes or preparations.  

TARTAR SAUCE - Use store bought quality mayonnaise, which is always safer for the spoilage/egg question, as the makers have dealt with that raw egg issue. Homemade mayonnaises are delicious, but risky over time with the raw egg quotient.  Only make your own mayonnaise when you KNOW it will be consumed without un-chilled storage or long-term setting.    Plus, you don’t have to always use mayonnaise.  Greek yogurt, thickened creams and milks, or blended soft (silken) tofu are an excellent and safe option that works well with picnic plans for potato and macaroni salads, tartar and dipping sauces, and sandwiches. 

To the mayonnaise or yogurt, one should add minced ingredients.  The best way to mince some of these ingredients is to use your box grater, very low tech but a good friend here. 

Firm ingredients to grate or finely chop are:  white or yellow onions, shallots, sweet or dill pickles, gherkins, garlic pickles, celery, citrus zest, hard-boiled egg, and cucumber (where do you think pickles come from?). 

Ingredients to add by mashing/fine dicing are capers, anchovies, chives, green olives, fennel and fresh dill. 

Other prepared flavors to add in a liquid-ish form are Dijon mustard, horseradish, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, oyster sauce (yes), and then the expected lemon and lime juice – but don’t rule out orange, tangerine or grapefruit juices either!  Toppers?  an affordable market-purchased caviar – red or black, perfect!  Serve with fish, shellfish, French fries, veggie dip.