In a stew

CIOPPINO

a fish gathering   
serves six to eight 

Cioppino (chuh-peen-oh) sounds really Italian.  Like Chop Suey sounds so Asian. 

Well, with all best intents, according to somewhat trustworthy lore, Cioppino started on the docks of San Francisco with all the fish mongers at their stalls ‘chipping in’ for the day’s market communal fish stew.  That became a song of sorts as purveyors often make, singing ‘chip-in-Oh!’ while soliciting for the fish sellers to contribute – which evolved to what we now know. 

Heat oven to 400°

Tools:  5 quart Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, rimmed sheet pan or cookie sheet, large fry/saute pan, mid-sized bowl

Prep:  Fresh or fresh thawed fish, cut to bite-sized or just larger.  Shell the shrimp (some choose to leave the tail on for a ‘handle’ but I find it inconvenient in soups and salads) – best if de-veined and butterflied (partially slit down the back to curl inside out when cooked - it makes a great ‘bite’ texture for shrimp).  Scrub the bi-shelled creatures' surfaces well of dirt and grit.  Some folks prep clams and oysters by placing the live shell creatures in a swirled bath of cool fresh water and a sprinkle of corn meal, which the creature exchanges for the grit it has in its interior (which takes about two hours to half a day).  When ‘bearding’ clams/oysters – the removal of the stringy, tough fibers near the hinge – do not do so until just ready to cook.  The removal of the ‘beard’ will begin the demise of the creature, and doing this any lengthy time in advance will definitely undermine the success of your dish. 

Overcooking is a big deal with fish as well.  Every effort against that malady is foremost in this recipe.

3-5 cloves garlic, peeled, medium-thin sliced
            (but grouped together single layer when roasting)

2    bell peppers (color your choice, red is sweetest),

cut into small bite-sized strips

2    small onions, halved pole to pole, cut off ends and peeled,

sliced in small wedges like an orange

2    medium carrots, small bite-sized diced

3-4 stalks celery, small bite-sized diced

1-3 peppers (jalapeno or Serrano) stemmed,

seeded, diced small
            AND/OR 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

1    smallish bulb fennel, sliced quarter-moons 

2    tbs olive oil

salt and pepper

3-4 lbs fish (fresh or fresh thawed!) your call – crab and lobster (pre-cooked, shelled), shrimp (peeled), scallops, oysters, clams, mussels, squid/calamari (cleaned), plus a good hearty white fish like cod, haddock, scrod, trout, tilapia, etc (diced 1-2 inch cubes).  If using shell/bivalve fish options like oysters, mussels and clams, at least double that specific amount in weight (you don’t eat those heavy shells!)

1   pkg salt pork or fatback, about 10-12 oz,

skin removed, rinsed well, diced ¼ inch

2-3  lbs tomatoes, diced medium small plus 1 cup broth,

or 1  28 oz can whole tomatoes, juice and all

1   cup dry white wine

2   quarts chicken stock and/or fish stock 

(watch sodiums and salts)

2   bottles clam juice

1   tsp oregano or 1  tbs  fresh minced

1   tsp dill or 1 tbs fresh minced

1   tsp thyme  or 1 tbs fresh minced
2   3-4 inch peel (color only, no white) orange peel

1   bay leaf

pinch saffron (optional but so nice)

1   tbs (splash) red wine, champagne or sherry vinegar

several glugs or ¼  cup brandy, Courvoisier, cognac,

Armagnac – optional but again so nice

fresh finely diced parsley and basil with just a tiny bit of
            fresh mint and rosemary

Preparation:  Place vegetable pieces in bowl, drizzle oil over, toss and cover all the bits.  Spread out on a baking sheet and salt and pepper.  Place in hot (400°) oven and roast for ten to fifteen minutes, flipping over halfway through.   Place the fish bits in the bowl and do the same oil drizzle and toss.  Remove hot sheet pan from oven and carefully relocate veggies to half of the pan, then place large fin-type fish pieces which are thicker on pan first.  Return to oven for 2-3 minutes, remove, then add shrimp, calamari and/or scallops in with the half-roasted vegetables and fish chunks – plus a fresh sprinkling of salt and pepper – and return to hot oven (could be reset to 'broil') for another four to six minutes (not flipping, watch carefully) until no longer translucent – lightly golden and just underdone (but definitely NOT overdone).

Meanwhile, in the cool stockpot or Dutch oven, add pork bits and bring both pan and bits to heat together.  When beginning to sizzle and color, add the vinegar and let sputter till almost dry, then add the dried spices/bay leaf stirring well, and let bloom a few minutes in the fats.  Next add the tomatoes, wine, clam juice and broth bringing to a bold simmer and adjust flame to support that simmer while carefully breaking apart the tomatoes.  Now add orange peels and reduce liquid content by a quarter to blend and strengthen flavors.  Next carefully add the clams, oysters and mussels.  Simmer gently, covered, while shellfish open and come to perfect done (around three-five minutes) – releasing their 'liquor' into the broth.  Now sprinkle over with fresh herbs if chosen.  When the roasted vegetables and fish in the oven have come ready (fish just under-done), remove and add to the tomato/shellfish mix (separate the garlic and mash well, then blend well with a bit of the broth in a cup and return to the stew) and bring to heat gently until all the shellfish have nicely finished cooking or opened (remove any shells that won’t).  Taste and adjust seasonings.
 

Lastly add the brandy and final fresh herbs, along with any pre-cooked fish (lobster, crab etc), simmering very softly just until you can’t stand it anymore (mostly residual heat to bring all to same heat level) – bring to the table – and serve in a generous bowl with a ‘knob’ of fresh sweet butter on top and a wedge or two of lemon on the side, along with the sourest, crustiest sourdough bread you can find.

Options: Potatoes or pasta may be added, but best if pre-cooked, and added at the final simmer (or in the case of pasta, served over at plating).   Cream always is welcome, but the richness of this dish doesn't require such a final heart confrontation.  But your likes can decide.

BEEF STEW 

Stroganoff meets Bourguignon     serves six to eight

I love both beef stroganoff and also beef bourguignon, so my bent way of thinking thought 'why not trying the two styles together?'  It may have been a long work-week, or a Saturday of wine tasting, I don’t know, but it worked out terrific.  Once upon a time I made beef stroganoff with pickles in it (I had read that this was a traditionally original addition), so with the idea that I love pickles with hamburgers, which is also a foundational beef taste, I gave it a shot.  I loved it.  So, you should too, just don’t overcook them.  Here’s that wild mix of traditions, I hope you like it as much as I did.  I just hope I can remember what I did!

Heat oven to mild heat 275-300°

Tools:  Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, saute/skillet pan

Ingredients:

3-4 lbs beef (chuck roast, top round, loin etc)

           trimmed of gristle, hard fat and/or silverskin,

           cut into bite-sized strips (1 x 2 x ¾)

¼   cup of my spice rub (equal parts – or 1 tbs each –

           paprika, powdered mustard, garlic powder, salt)

2    tsp ground pepper

1    tsp dried thyme

¼   cup flour

2    tbs oil (canola, peanut, vegetable, safflower)
2    tbs butter

2    cups (1 pint) dry red wine (burgundy, pinot noir, merlot)

1    pkg (about 8 oz) fatback/salt pork, trimmed

           of thick skin, rinsed, diced about ¼ inch

1    lb sliced mushrooms

2 medium-sized carrots, sliced at sharp diagonal, 
           then cut in half, lengthwise
1    lb pearl onions (pkg frozen, thawed is great)

1    tbs tomato paste

4    cups (1 quart) chicken or chicken/beef combined broth/stock
1    cup coffee, freshly brewed and strong

2    tbs Hoisin sauce
¼   cup rich fruit jelly - cherry, currant, grape etc.

¼   cup bread and butter pickle slices, cut

           into ‘matchstick’ strips, plus 1 tbs jar vinegar

3-4 green onions, both white and green parts, sliced medium-fine

¼   cup dry sherry    
½   package plain gelatin, bloomed/dissolved in sherry
splash cognac or balsamic vinegar

      1    cup sour cream, yogurt, Greek yogurt

Preparation:  Mix spice rub, pepper, thyme and flour in paper or zip lock bag.  Place meat bits in bag, puff of air and seal.  Shake till all the meat pieces are well covered and remove the bits, saving the left-over powder mix.  In large, broad-bottomed, coverable oven-safe pan (Dutch oven is perfect), heat oil and butter till water has simmered out of butter and just beginning to brown and place meat bits in single layer to sauté, flipping till all pieces are browned.  Cover the simmering meat bits in the wine, coffee and half the broth, bring back to a boil, reduce to a simmer and place in low heated oven, covered, for one and a half hours.  Check occasionally for dryness, stir it all up a bit, and add only tiny bits of broth or more wine if necessary.  The last half-hour, add the wine/gelatin mix.  Stir well.

While the meat is braising, in large cool skillet, place pork bits and bring both pan and pork to heat, until sizzling.  Stir occasionally till just beginning to brown all sides.  Add carrots and pearl onions and bring all to a nice golden, then add the tomato paste.  Allow the paste to brown a bit – stirring into the mass – then dust the leftover flour/herb mix over all the bits and stir into the fat briefly until aroma arises.  Add the mushrooms, Hoisin sauce, jelly and second half of the broth, carefully stir well, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer - simmering long enough to ensure good blending of the dry and wet ingredients and the tenderizing of the vegetables, and to reduce the liquids some (about ten to fifteen minutes), then remove from fire and hold.

At the end of the hour and a half, remove the covered meat from the oven, test for tenderness, and if satisfied - place on low-heated stovetop.  Combine the skillet mix into the braised meat, blend well and continue to heat gently for ten to fifteen minutes more.  Add the green onions, pickles, vinegar, and simmer for five minutes longer and add the liquor and/or balsamic vinegar.  Adjust seasonings and thickness if desired.  At serving add the sour cream/yogurt - the overall color is best if not blended in but rather dolloped over.

Options:  more veggies is never a bad idea.  Celery/celery root, potatoes, turnips, greens, peas (frozen at the last is easiest and best) and/or squash - and more - can always be considered for a greatly hearty stew, as your 'ear' thinks - or what you may have leftover!  

Serve over sturdy, flat, buttered noodles (homemade or dried) – or crushed butter-fried pre-baked (or boiled) potatoes – or in a tortilla – or on rice.  Hey, you decide.



CHICKEN GUISADA
(gee–sah–dah)
serves six to ten

Some folks get the term guisada mixed up with the term asada.  Well, basically - the first is meat prepared braised till very tender in a sauce or gravy, while asada is meat prepared on a grill or a dry heat preparation till caramelized and a great chew.  There, now you're fluent in Spanglish.

Stewed chicken, nothing new here – but this variety will make a nice surprise.  Use it as a filling for tacos, or even more continentally, stuffed in hollowed out breads, or in puff-pastry or pita shells, or with risotto or penne, or add to leftover soup, or humbly sopped on a rustic crust in one hand and hearty cheese in the other.

Tools:  stockpot, cutting board, frying or sauté pan

Prep:  There is now offered in most every supermarket out there a variety of chicken presentations in the frozen foods section.  Most helpful is the selection that offers individually frozen chicken parts – such as skinned, boneless thighs or breasts or tenders.

Other companion ingredients are vegetables and spices, so the creation is not difficult, and the rewards are huge.

Ingredients:    

            3-4   pounds frozen or fresh chicken pieces

            1½   lbs tomatoes (drained canned whole 28 oz,

                        or fresh), roughly diced

1     tbs dried crushed basil or ¼ cup fresh leaves,

          then chopped

             ¼   cup olive, grapeseed and/or canola oil           

1     lbs carrots diced, ½ to ¾ inch

3    stalks celery diced ½ to ¾ inch

2     medium onions diced ½ to ¾ inch

              2    small or one large mild green peppers, roasted,

                        peeled:  bell, poblano and/or New Mexico,

diced ½ to ¾ inch or 1 or 2   7oz canned mild

chiles (as you prefer), diced (peeling not absolutely 

necessary because of size of dice)

3     cloves garlic, chopped/minced fine

            1-2   jalapeños or Serranos, stemmed, seeded if desired,

                        chopped fine

1     tbs oregano
salt and pepper, to taste

Preparation:  In a large stockpot, place chicken parts (frozen or not) in lightly salted water, till just covering the chicken.  Add the basil and bring to boil, lower to simmer and cook covered until the chicken is done.  Remove from broth, allowing broth to continue at high heat, uncovered to reduce.  Let the chicken parts cool enough to remove skin and de-bone if necessary, and cut or tear into inch or so sized chunks.  Replace chicken to reduced broth, add the tomatoes and continue to cook, reduced to a simmer again – and encourage the meat fibers to ‘break up’ in construction, agitating with spoon or spatula or potato masher.  Simmer until the tomatoes have mostly broken down, the broth has considerably reduced and thickened (almost dissipated but very moist), and the chunks have tenderized to a shred.

Meanwhile, you have placed in a medium-hot sauté pan:  the oil, heated well, and added all the vegetables, cooking till tender, then add the garlic and oregano, a pinch of salt and pepper and have been sautéing these elements patiently at a medium light sizzle temperature until they are like candy – sweet, caramelized and just tender, about fifteen or twenty minutes (the time it took to prepare the chicken till ready).

Finally, carefully join the vegetables, spices, juices and oils with the simmered chicken.    You’ve created a masterpiece!

Options:  Try this folded in with, or just presented under, the green chile sauce (in this book) – wonderful together.

Add along with it:  diced or sliced fresh hot peppers, pickled peppers and onions, chopped cilantro, sautéed mushrooms, diced cherry peppers, diced olives (black and/or green), corn kernels, shredded cheese, grated radishes, sour cream or thickened yogurt. Try any of the above with:  A taco with queso fresco and shredded cabbage; with lettuce, fresh tomato and raw onion on a slice of crusty bread; like a hash, with cracked eggs baked on top; or as a stuffing for peppers, tomatoes, pork chops or pita. 

Anybody hungry?

Translating red to green

GOING GREEN the other side,

CHILI VERDE

Although chili is basically described as meat stewed in a gravy sauce, which is waaay too simple to say, this is what makes this what it is.  The red version of chili is what most folks know and love, but the green version is not to be missed, a yin and yang kind of thing.

This recipe can be as complicated or as simple as you wish.  The meat may be marinated or not, or pre-cooked roasted chicken, turkey or roast beef/pork may be used – or no meat at all; the vegetable additives may be roasted or not.  You control the flavor and time, it’s great as a fast dish, but just you wait for the longer time version, as I seem to say a lot, it’s worth the effort.

Tools: cutting board, sheet pan/cookie sheet, stockpot, sauté pan, food processor

Prep:  The meat is great marinated in the marinade given below.  You may also choose to do a dry rub.  I’ll offer both, and you give ‘em a shot and see what you think.  The beef or pork meat will have a great boost in flavor if marinated in whisky or tequila after being diced.  A no-meat dish can use root vegetables and/or firm tofu prepared similarly.  They may be sprinkled with my ‘home spice’ rub mix of equal parts of salt, paprika, dry powdered mustard and garlic powder for half an hour to two hours – and even then marinated in the liquor afterward if desired.  Either choice, simply cover and refrigerate for at least a few hours to overnight.  Roasting the tomatillos, tomatoes, onions, garlic and peppers will be the most delicious option to do as well.  Both these operations may be done up to a few days in advance and chilled.

Ingredients:

Marinade and meats:

3-4        pounds (or more if you like a meaty chili)
            pork shoulder, beef chuck roast or lamb
            shank or shoulder, in 1-2 inch cubes or 2-3 lbs
            turkey breast, roasted chicken, in rough
            cubes

              ½       pint whisky or tequila (1 cup - not top shelf, but a
                              mid-to-common range quality is fine)

               5       crushed garlic cloves

              ¼      cup flour

              ¼      cup canola or vegetable oil for browning

Your meat options are not necessarily any of the options given - chunks of a kielbasa or Spanish chorizo, Andouille and other firm sausages, left over lamb/pork chops come to mind; you may blend types of meats or choose not to use meat at all (caramelized firm tofu, root vegetables or squashes are great).  Trim raw meats of excess fats, gristle, bone, silver skin and cartilage – and cut into 1-2 inch chunks.  Marinate chuck, pork shoulder, lamb and/or turkey chunks as directed, if desired (prepared deli roasted chicken doesn’t need this step).  Drain well (reserve liquor and garlic), rinse, pat dry, then set meat chunks on rack to further dry but first salt and grind pepper.  Allow surface of meats to attain just barely a dry surface, while also coming to room temperature.  Coat in flour, pat off excess and sauté in oiled fry pan on high heat till brown, one layer at a time, until the meat cube surfaces are well browned on all sides (and excess fat removed in this process).  The meats that aren’t poultry will reduce in weight, so the final weights of ‘meat’ will be about the same.  The turkey need not be browned but lightly sautéed or braised (or even microwaved at 60-80%) to an underdone ‘set’, cubed and then all can be added into the early sauce to complete cooking in the braise.  Pour off and discard oil and fat (responsibly) from the pan, and deglaze with enough water, marinade, wine or stock to dissolve the bits, pour off and save.

Roasting ingredients:

2-3          medium small sized onions, skinned and
      quartered

8-10        Hatch, New Mexico, and/or poblano
            peppers, halved; with seeds, veins
            and stems removed                      

                      10-12      tomatillos, hulled, washed, halved

                          1        lb fresh roma type tomatoes, halved, seeded  

                                          or  1  14 oz can quality whole tomatoes,
                                          fire roasted presentation (not to be
                                          roasted with the other vegetables if
                                          chosen), drained

                       8-10      cloves garlic (about one bulb), peeled, whole
                                          or large diced

                        3-4       stalks celery, rough diced

                        1-2       smallish carrots, halved then rough diced 

                        1-2       tbs canola or vegetable oil

                       salt and pepper to taste

Place all the above vegetables on a flat sheet pan or cookie sheet.  Drizzle with oil and mix with hands to well-coat the pieces, spread to single layer, cut-side up, then salt and pepper.   Roast in 400-450̊ oven for about 20-30 minutes, or until darkened on the edges and tender (broiling at the very last may aid with the char, watch constantly with this step).  Remove all chunks and liquids to cool, except for the chile peppers, which you’ll replace to the pan, skin side up, and return to the oven to continue to roast under the broiler until well charred, for about five more minutes.  Remove and transfer to a paper bag and roll shut (or into a bowl and plastic-wrap cover).  Sweat the chiles for five to ten minutes, until the skin is loose and they have cooled enough to handle.  Gently scrape/peel the charred skin off the surface, leaving only minor darkened bits of skin here and there.  Process all the roasted vegetables and peppers, (plus canned roasted tomatoes if chosen), oils, and juices from the roasting in the food processor, and pulse to a coarse liquid mash.  Add a bit of water or broth only if needed to facilitate the blend.  Makes about one and a half to two quarts.

Simmering ingredients:

  ¼   lb or one package, salt pork or fat back,

             trimmed of skin, cut into ¼ inch dice

  3    tbs canola or vegetable oil

  1    quart (4 cups) beef, chicken or veal stock

             (if not homemade, boxed is best, check 

             sodium levels and preservatives)

 Reserved deglazing liquid

  2    medium onions, diced ½ inch

 The reclaimed marinade garlic, finely chopped or
             minced

1-2   tbs homemade chili powder (see red chili recipe)
             or quality store purchased

1-2   tbs quality green curry powder or paste, store
             purchased

  1    tbs cumin, or more as preferred (remember,

             it’s also in the chili powder)

  3-5   Serrano chiles, medium fine diced (optional)

    1    bunch cilantro, stems separated from stops. 

               Stems fine/medium chopped (optional)               

The processed pepper and tomatillo mash

 ½    tsp each salt and pepper, later adjust after
             finished

                        3-4   tbs Worcestershire sauce

   1-4   chipotlé chiles, medium fine diced,

               with adobo sauce (optional)

In large skillet, Dutch oven, or stockpot, carefully bring pork bits to fry at medium heat till just getting golden, rending some of the fat. In the rendered fat along with the pork, raise the heat to medium-high and add the onions and Serrano chiles, salt and pepper and continue the sauté.  As they tender, add the reclaimed garlic and allow it to begin to caramelize and join together with the onions and chiles.  Now add the oil to the fat and bring to heat, and carefully the chili powder, cumin and curry sprinkled over the hot oil and work with spatula or wooden spoon into the bits, stirring all the ingredients into the pan and heat well in the fats.  When the aroma rises, add the stock, stir well to blend and bring everything from the surface of the pan into the liquid, then stir in the green pepper mash, deglazing liquids, chopped cilantro stems, Worcestershire sauce, chipotle chiles, and bring to a simmer.  Stir in the meat chunks and return to a gentle simmer.  Maintain this stovetop simmer very carefully, covered, stirring regularly and scraping the bottom with a flat wooden spatula, adding liquids if necessary from time to time – or cover and place in 325̊ oven – either method for about 1 to 1½ hours, and work the meat bits apart into coarse shreds and small chunks.  Five minutes prior to finish, add the chopped cilantro and blend.

Serving toppers:  Shredded aged parmesan, aged cheddar (yellow or white), asiago, jack and/or Cotija cheeses; thin-sliced fresh scallions (white and green part) and small diced fresh sweet red onions (try Cipoline, a sweet Italian onion), fresh avocado chunks, corn chips, jalapeño nacho slices, sliced radishes, fresh chopped cilantro or parsley, fresh sweet corn kernels or the corn relish, sour cream or Greek yogurt, one or more of the great salsas in this book (Salsa Sorpresa, Plum Loco, salsa fresca, salsa verde and roja, Pico de Gallo) and never forget, lots of lime wedges to fresh-squeeze just before diving in.

Options:  Leave out the meat options, except for the flavoring pork bits if you wish, cut the broth amount in half, but prepare all the other ingredients and let simmer for at least twenty minutes.  Into this lovely ‘gravy’ braise your favorite prepared main course, like chicken, pork, duck, shellfish (lobster oh yes, crab, shrimp, scallops, abalone, clams, oysters, mussels and any other wonderful shellfish you can think of); make a different kind of pasta (Lasagna – just think!), rigatoni, shells, manicotti, spiral etc); or heat leftover cooked game parts, turkey legs, fried chicken, braised pot roast, pork chops – even better try the prepared pork shreds from the ‘pulled pork’ recipe . . . ah, just have at it. 

Choose to braise the meat/fish additions in the sauce to bring to heat – or present the pre-cooked, uncoated warm meats/fishes atop a generous steaming dish of this green deliciousness – with toppers over, for a more ‘formal’ presentation.

Going green never had it so good!