Translating red to green

GOING GREEN the other side,

CHILI VERDE

Although chili is basically described as meat stewed in a gravy sauce, which is waaay too simple to say, this is what makes this what it is.  The red version of chili is what most folks know and love, but the green version is not to be missed, a yin and yang kind of thing.

This recipe can be as complicated or as simple as you wish.  The meat may be marinated or not, or pre-cooked roasted chicken, turkey or roast beef/pork may be used – or no meat at all; the vegetable additives may be roasted or not.  You control the flavor and time, it’s great as a fast dish, but just you wait for the longer time version, as I seem to say a lot, it’s worth the effort.

Tools: cutting board, sheet pan/cookie sheet, stockpot, sauté pan, food processor

Prep:  The meat is great marinated in the marinade given below.  You may also choose to do a dry rub.  I’ll offer both, and you give ‘em a shot and see what you think.  The beef or pork meat will have a great boost in flavor if marinated in whisky or tequila after being diced.  A no-meat dish can use root vegetables and/or firm tofu prepared similarly.  They may be sprinkled with my ‘home spice’ rub mix of equal parts of salt, paprika, dry powdered mustard and garlic powder for half an hour to two hours – and even then marinated in the liquor afterward if desired.  Either choice, simply cover and refrigerate for at least a few hours to overnight.  Roasting the tomatillos, tomatoes, onions, garlic and peppers will be the most delicious option to do as well.  Both these operations may be done up to a few days in advance and chilled.

Ingredients:

Marinade and meats:

3-4        pounds (or more if you like a meaty chili)
            pork shoulder, beef chuck roast or lamb
            shank or shoulder, in 1-2 inch cubes or 2-3 lbs
            turkey breast, roasted chicken, in rough
            cubes

              ½       pint whisky or tequila (1 cup - not top shelf, but a
                              mid-to-common range quality is fine)

               5       crushed garlic cloves

              ¼      cup flour

              ¼      cup canola or vegetable oil for browning

Your meat options are not necessarily any of the options given - chunks of a kielbasa or Spanish chorizo, Andouille and other firm sausages, left over lamb/pork chops come to mind; you may blend types of meats or choose not to use meat at all (caramelized firm tofu, root vegetables or squashes are great).  Trim raw meats of excess fats, gristle, bone, silver skin and cartilage – and cut into 1-2 inch chunks.  Marinate chuck, pork shoulder, lamb and/or turkey chunks as directed, if desired (prepared deli roasted chicken doesn’t need this step).  Drain well (reserve liquor and garlic), rinse, pat dry, then set meat chunks on rack to further dry but first salt and grind pepper.  Allow surface of meats to attain just barely a dry surface, while also coming to room temperature.  Coat in flour, pat off excess and sauté in oiled fry pan on high heat till brown, one layer at a time, until the meat cube surfaces are well browned on all sides (and excess fat removed in this process).  The meats that aren’t poultry will reduce in weight, so the final weights of ‘meat’ will be about the same.  The turkey need not be browned but lightly sautéed or braised (or even microwaved at 60-80%) to an underdone ‘set’, cubed and then all can be added into the early sauce to complete cooking in the braise.  Pour off and discard oil and fat (responsibly) from the pan, and deglaze with enough water, marinade, wine or stock to dissolve the bits, pour off and save.

Roasting ingredients:

2-3          medium small sized onions, skinned and
      quartered

8-10        Hatch, New Mexico, and/or poblano
            peppers, halved; with seeds, veins
            and stems removed                      

                      10-12      tomatillos, hulled, washed, halved

                          1        lb fresh roma type tomatoes, halved, seeded  

                                          or  1  14 oz can quality whole tomatoes,
                                          fire roasted presentation (not to be
                                          roasted with the other vegetables if
                                          chosen), drained

                       8-10      cloves garlic (about one bulb), peeled, whole
                                          or large diced

                        3-4       stalks celery, rough diced

                        1-2       smallish carrots, halved then rough diced 

                        1-2       tbs canola or vegetable oil

                       salt and pepper to taste

Place all the above vegetables on a flat sheet pan or cookie sheet.  Drizzle with oil and mix with hands to well-coat the pieces, spread to single layer, cut-side up, then salt and pepper.   Roast in 400-450̊ oven for about 20-30 minutes, or until darkened on the edges and tender (broiling at the very last may aid with the char, watch constantly with this step).  Remove all chunks and liquids to cool, except for the chile peppers, which you’ll replace to the pan, skin side up, and return to the oven to continue to roast under the broiler until well charred, for about five more minutes.  Remove and transfer to a paper bag and roll shut (or into a bowl and plastic-wrap cover).  Sweat the chiles for five to ten minutes, until the skin is loose and they have cooled enough to handle.  Gently scrape/peel the charred skin off the surface, leaving only minor darkened bits of skin here and there.  Process all the roasted vegetables and peppers, (plus canned roasted tomatoes if chosen), oils, and juices from the roasting in the food processor, and pulse to a coarse liquid mash.  Add a bit of water or broth only if needed to facilitate the blend.  Makes about one and a half to two quarts.

Simmering ingredients:

  ¼   lb or one package, salt pork or fat back,

             trimmed of skin, cut into ¼ inch dice

  3    tbs canola or vegetable oil

  1    quart (4 cups) beef, chicken or veal stock

             (if not homemade, boxed is best, check 

             sodium levels and preservatives)

 Reserved deglazing liquid

  2    medium onions, diced ½ inch

 The reclaimed marinade garlic, finely chopped or
             minced

1-2   tbs homemade chili powder (see red chili recipe)
             or quality store purchased

1-2   tbs quality green curry powder or paste, store
             purchased

  1    tbs cumin, or more as preferred (remember,

             it’s also in the chili powder)

  3-5   Serrano chiles, medium fine diced (optional)

    1    bunch cilantro, stems separated from stops. 

               Stems fine/medium chopped (optional)               

The processed pepper and tomatillo mash

 ½    tsp each salt and pepper, later adjust after
             finished

                        3-4   tbs Worcestershire sauce

   1-4   chipotlé chiles, medium fine diced,

               with adobo sauce (optional)

In large skillet, Dutch oven, or stockpot, carefully bring pork bits to fry at medium heat till just getting golden, rending some of the fat. In the rendered fat along with the pork, raise the heat to medium-high and add the onions and Serrano chiles, salt and pepper and continue the sauté.  As they tender, add the reclaimed garlic and allow it to begin to caramelize and join together with the onions and chiles.  Now add the oil to the fat and bring to heat, and carefully the chili powder, cumin and curry sprinkled over the hot oil and work with spatula or wooden spoon into the bits, stirring all the ingredients into the pan and heat well in the fats.  When the aroma rises, add the stock, stir well to blend and bring everything from the surface of the pan into the liquid, then stir in the green pepper mash, deglazing liquids, chopped cilantro stems, Worcestershire sauce, chipotle chiles, and bring to a simmer.  Stir in the meat chunks and return to a gentle simmer.  Maintain this stovetop simmer very carefully, covered, stirring regularly and scraping the bottom with a flat wooden spatula, adding liquids if necessary from time to time – or cover and place in 325̊ oven – either method for about 1 to 1½ hours, and work the meat bits apart into coarse shreds and small chunks.  Five minutes prior to finish, add the chopped cilantro and blend.

Serving toppers:  Shredded aged parmesan, aged cheddar (yellow or white), asiago, jack and/or Cotija cheeses; thin-sliced fresh scallions (white and green part) and small diced fresh sweet red onions (try Cipoline, a sweet Italian onion), fresh avocado chunks, corn chips, jalapeño nacho slices, sliced radishes, fresh chopped cilantro or parsley, fresh sweet corn kernels or the corn relish, sour cream or Greek yogurt, one or more of the great salsas in this book (Salsa Sorpresa, Plum Loco, salsa fresca, salsa verde and roja, Pico de Gallo) and never forget, lots of lime wedges to fresh-squeeze just before diving in.

Options:  Leave out the meat options, except for the flavoring pork bits if you wish, cut the broth amount in half, but prepare all the other ingredients and let simmer for at least twenty minutes.  Into this lovely ‘gravy’ braise your favorite prepared main course, like chicken, pork, duck, shellfish (lobster oh yes, crab, shrimp, scallops, abalone, clams, oysters, mussels and any other wonderful shellfish you can think of); make a different kind of pasta (Lasagna – just think!), rigatoni, shells, manicotti, spiral etc); or heat leftover cooked game parts, turkey legs, fried chicken, braised pot roast, pork chops – even better try the prepared pork shreds from the ‘pulled pork’ recipe . . . ah, just have at it. 

Choose to braise the meat/fish additions in the sauce to bring to heat – or present the pre-cooked, uncoated warm meats/fishes atop a generous steaming dish of this green deliciousness – with toppers over, for a more ‘formal’ presentation.

Going green never had it so good!