A GRAIN OF TRUTH

Grains are the base, the foundation of societies, the continuation of the species – if I may be so bold to proclaim.  Vast fields spanning huge expanses of land are dedicated to the propagation of them.  Their oftimes used term ‘staff of life’ is no misnomer.  The uses, flavors and recipes for grains are so vast, I’m not going to try to give a repertoire of recipes, but lay out my perspective on the basics and treatment for attaining best flavors and textures – with a couple of examples for you to expand from.  Give it your ear.

By definition, grains, simply said, are the seeds of various grasses.  There ya are.  The most commonly known varieties are:  

WHEAT:  Wheat is perhaps the best-recognized grain in the US, if not the world.   In its whole grain form (NOT to be confused with ‘multi-grain’, ‘100% grain’ or ‘full grain’.  Whole wheat may also be found as related varieties known as ‘buckwheat’, ‘kasha’ and ‘bulgur’) it is richest in taste, fuller in texture, and most nutritious in content (in that the ‘bran’, ‘endosperm’ and ‘germ’ are still intact).  The downsides to this form are that ‘light’ bread preparations and pastries are most difficult, ‘quick’ cook methods are not feasible, and ‘mildness’ of taste is basically over-ruled.  In this form, it can be rough-cracked and softened with moisture and used in soups and breakfast cereals.  While ground fine, whole-wheat flour makes a dense, hearty bread or other baked good – even when utilizing leaveners such as sodas and yeasts – or when prepared as a flatbread (naan, tortilla, pita etc).  

In a refined form (the hull, ‘bran’ and ‘germ’ removed), it is paler in color, more susceptible to absorption of liquids and lighter in flavor and in texture.  In this form it is best known in the US, being used as  ‘pastry flour’, ‘all purpose flour’, and ‘bread flour’ – depending on the proportion of protein (in the form of gluten) in the particular variety of wheat grain selected, with ‘pastry’ being the lowest, up to ‘bread’ being the highest.  This form is more suitable with yeasts for most breads; and when whole-wheat flour is used alongside the refined, it makes a more pleasant texture.  It is usually re-fortified with vitamins, minerals and nutrients post-harvest to compensate for the losses brought on in refinement.  Choosing ‘unbleached’ is the best form of the refined option one can choose nutrition-wise.

RICE – Given more detail in the ‘rice is nice’ section of this blog.  It is found in thousands of varieties across the globe.  Like most all grains, it too has a popular use in alcoholic beverages.

CORN – Cultivated for millennia in the Americas.  The propagation has been divided into hundreds of varieties, ranging from very rustic, firm and basic for animal fodder – to very sweet, juicy and light varieties for fine dining.  It can be used fresh and consumed even raw off the cob – or dried and ground to a meal or flour.  In a ground flour or meal presentation, it has been a staple on the human plate for centuries. 

The most common whole grain corn offering is directly off the cob (in thousands of cooked and raw fashions), plus found also in the ever-popular snack – popcorn.  As an alcoholic source, corn not only is used for human consumption (ask anyone in the southern US about ‘white lightnin’), but now is also used as a fuel additive and alternate combustion option.

BARLEY, OATS AND RYE:  Lesser-known grains that are still greatly used, and known perhaps more for their contribution to alcohols and fermented presentations than a daily thought to a chewable diet.  In the US, these were more widely used in times past, and took a ‘back seat’ with the introduction of the more easily grown wheat.  They all contain much less gluten than wheat, making them a less successful option for breads as we know them.  Their flavor, texture and aromas are very unique, unlike the more ‘main-stream’ flavored wheat, making their addition to any food a very obvious one (but a good one!).  Barley makes an excellent flavor/nutrition boost to soups (turkey barley soup is my favorite), breads, cereals and pastas (with barley as an additional flour).   Oats are likewise a huge nutritional contributor, and although used greatly for animal fodder, it also has a very large place on the human plate as well.  Mostly oats are found in ‘rolled’, ‘bran’ and ‘flakes’ presentations, and claim a sizable offering with breakfast, soup, dessert and baking menus.   Rye is the least known with US homes.  It has a delicious specific taste; that as in flour form, works well with breads, crackers and other savory pastry presentations.  Like oats, it can be whole or rolled in use.

GRAIN-LIKE FOODS:  Legumes and seeds that have been used similar to grain for breads and other carbohydrate dishes are quinoa (pronounced ‘keen wah’ – a seed, but not of the grass family), wild rice (a water grass seed), lentils and chickpeas/garbanzo beans (both legumes), and ostensibly couscous (coos-coos) – a northern African grain dish that is basically a dried, crumbled pasta.

PREPARATIONS:  ROAST:  Applying indirect heat, as I have said a few times ;>) in this blog/book, one of our best taste friends is caramelization.  This rings so very true with grain preparations as well.  Like the specific seeds used for coffee and chocolate (can you imagine THEM without caramelization?), the roast has the potential for bringing enormous flavor complexities to any grain/seed dish.   This success may be accomplished through either a dry heat roast, toast or an oil fry preparation.  Roasted corn has a huge presentation selection, ranging from many Native American/Mexican/Italian sources (corn pudding, elote, polentas, salads etc) to European dishes from the east as well as the west.  Roasted cracked wheat grains and bulgurs offer a rich flavor in soups and long-cook dishes, plus offer an enlarged nutrition contribution as well.

TOAST:  Applying direct heat, like a dry frying pan or ‘toaster’ style oven brings a nice fresh ‘up-surge’ of grain flavor.  The essential oils have been encouraged, as with the other heat applications, but in this dry sense, the structure remains more ‘true’, if not wonderfully enhanced.  Toasted oats, barley, wheat (I love the smell of toast in the morning), quinoa, couscous and rye are a scent to behold.  This step as a first one makes the final dish even more richly enjoyable.

FRY:  Some rice examples, Rice Pilaf and Risotto, are prepared by sautéing the selected rice grains in butter/oil/animal fats prior to addition of the waters and liquors.  Toasted or sautéed barley introduced into a hearty soup is famous for many grandmothers to attest.  We can go on for days about fried corn (any couch potato will happily affirm), as the effort is so worth the rich tastes given.  And with wheat, the effects of fried wheat flour (a caramelized roux) are legendary in Creole and Cajun cuisines. 

MOISTURE:  A freshly roasted, toasted or fried grain will be more ‘thirsty’ for moistures to re-constitute the grain texture to an edible state.  Usually, the first moisture added to a dish after heating the grain will be the primary flavor the grain will take on into the individual granule.  Usually this flavor is found with wine in some form; but stocks/broths, flavored oils, juices and various flavored waters are used as well to a lovely success.

Some grains are very hard hulled, or densely formed, requiring that moisture be added patiently and slowly – so, as with many beans and legumes, a good overnight soak may be desired (especially with faro and rye).  Rice often is soaked for extraction of the delicate flavor and using primarily this liquid, continued further to become puddings, drinks and soups.  Dried/treated corn has been ground then re-constituted for centuries, creating many American Indian/Mexican dishes (i.e. masa), Italian polenta, as well as a mandatory Southern staple – grits. 

Some grains, if not all, are grown and/or stored in a fashion that the fine powders of other crushed grains – or a surface residue produced within the growth or storage process – may most likely cover the individual grains, affecting the final cooked tastes and textures.  Submerging, rinsing and draining the grains at least once in cool, fresh water as a basic preparation step makes a good idea for pretty much all grains you wish to use in a dish. 

Cooking most whole grains in a simmer/steam fashion requires about 40-50 minutes cooking time to soften (some after an overnight soak), while most refined grains require 20-30 minutes for their tender ‘bite’.

As with any new idea, always smell the ingredient options together under your experienced nose. Trust how it ‘sounds’ to you.  Try stepping out of your comfort zone and give new taste ideas a try.

Two of my topmost grain recipe thoughts:

ROASTED CORN, ah, roasted wonderfulness.  Of all the grain options, this is certainly one of my favorites.  There’s something about the taste of the caramelization along with the sweetness of the corn that finds such deliciousness.   Whether roasted in a hot pan (lightly oiled or non-stick), or over an open flame, or in a hot oven – the results will be almost the same – light brown edges with an occasional dark bit here and there.  Placing the un-husked cob directly on the coals in a BBQ can make a delicious roasted taste.  Just watch and sniff carefully (plus, removing the ‘silks’ is easier after the corn has cooked).  Just prior to finishing the roast, slather the naked cob in a flavor/texture ‘ointment’ that ensures the adhesion of further tastes and textures.  Some like mayonnaise (famous for just being delicious), some like butter (but try garlic and/or herb butter).  I personally found bleu cheese dressing to make a nice accompaniment to corn.  One can also try a bit of nut-butter as a base slather, starting with the famous peanut butter, but don’t stop there – cashew butter (!), almond butter – so evilly good.  Mix a portion, about a fourth, with three-quarters cow’s milk butter, and use as you would table butter. 

Returning the cob to roast just a bit further (in the case of the BBQ, this time the peeled back corn is set on the grill) sets this ‘slather’ well into the flavor of the corn.  The roasted coating you choose also makes a great adhesion for just one more flavor and texture layer.  Some like grated Parmesan, Grana padano or Cotija cheeses.  Some like crushed nuts/seeds – try sesame, sunflower or caraway seeds!  Some like crushed prepared snack foods like potato chips, corn chips or salty pretzels.  Some also like to sprinkle roasted spices or fresh herbs:  Cumin, paprika, cayenne – it would seem they are made to go with corn.  When all is done, after all the roast, try adding fresh chopped cilantro, thyme, dill and/or tarragon.   And always, salt and pepper.  Remember, your dining guests will most likely have these messy ingredients up their cheeks, and perhaps in their ears, so lavish this dish with only your closest friends! 

A safer ‘less-mess’ version, corn pudding, is almost the same ingredients and options, but the corn is trimmed first, the ‘corn milk’ squee-gee’d off the cob, the corn and sugars slow roasted together with the flavorants, with milk and eggs into a custardy, rich, very flavorful mass.  Yowza.

RICE PUDDING – Another wonderfully delicious taste, and so many versions and preparations for it.  Some choose to start with raw rice (a short grain or arborio), and cook it in three times the volume of milk or half-half (cream is just too rich).  This makes a lovely textural and rich rice, but the ease of scorching the milk is very high – so proceed with caution, stirring often, like risotto.  Sometimes soaking the rice in water and/or milk several hours to overnight will ease the final heat preparation a bit (use the soaking liquid in the cook as well).  When tender, almost mushy and just barely approaching dry, the rice is then mixed with a selection of ‘creamy’ ingredients such as sweet potato mash, pumpkin pie (canned or fresh) filling, nut butters, preserves/jams/marmelades, mashed soft fruits such as very ripe bananas, mangoes, papaya and/or persimmon – even a portion of canned sweetened condensed milk along with canned evaporated milk, which may then be slow baked or stove-top cooked till thick like porridge, and is only limited by your imagination. 

Other versions call for cooked rice, this time long grain (used while warm and soft).  In this preparation, the pudding is prepared as if a custard, with eggs as the gentle thickener.   Either full eggs for a lighter texture, or egg yolks alone for a denser finish.  Simmered in a milk base, with sugar, sweetened condensed milk and/or honey/molasses/maple as well as barley or agave syrups and brought to a careful finish by either baked in a bain-marie (water bath) low and untouched – or roasted dry and stirred occasionally – or very low stove top with careful stirring and blending.

Flavor and texture additions can be diced dried or fresh fruits (dark or golden raisins, dried cherries, dried cranberries/Craisins, dried pineapple, dried apricots/peaches/strawberries etc, dates, currants, figs, fresh berries, fresh cherries, fresh apples/peaches/plums, segments of citrus – oranges, limes, lemons – with their juices added into the original bake). 

Spicing can be the usual cinnamon and vanilla – but try cardamom, nutmeg, cayenne and/or just a hint of allspice.   Almond extract at the finish, simply a breath of luscious.

Subtle textures can be chewy, as in the dried fruits, but a mild crunch may be asserted with nuts, seeds, fresh crunch fruits diced small (apples, pears, jicama, celery etc) or crushed candies and/or candy bars – Butterfinger anyone?   In the warm pudding, try stirring in shaved or morsel bits of chocolate, white chocolate, butterscotch, caramel – yes, it’s bad but so good.

In a stew

CIOPPINO

a fish gathering   
serves six to eight 

Cioppino (chuh-peen-oh) sounds really Italian.  Like Chop Suey sounds so Asian. 

Well, with all best intents, according to somewhat trustworthy lore, Cioppino started on the docks of San Francisco with all the fish mongers at their stalls ‘chipping in’ for the day’s market communal fish stew.  That became a song of sorts as purveyors often make, singing ‘chip-in-Oh!’ while soliciting for the fish sellers to contribute – which evolved to what we now know. 

Heat oven to 400°

Tools:  5 quart Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, rimmed sheet pan or cookie sheet, large fry/saute pan, mid-sized bowl

Prep:  Fresh or fresh thawed fish, cut to bite-sized or just larger.  Shell the shrimp (some choose to leave the tail on for a ‘handle’ but I find it inconvenient in soups and salads) – best if de-veined and butterflied (partially slit down the back to curl inside out when cooked - it makes a great ‘bite’ texture for shrimp).  Scrub the bi-shelled creatures' surfaces well of dirt and grit.  Some folks prep clams and oysters by placing the live shell creatures in a swirled bath of cool fresh water and a sprinkle of corn meal, which the creature exchanges for the grit it has in its interior (which takes about two hours to half a day).  When ‘bearding’ clams/oysters – the removal of the stringy, tough fibers near the hinge – do not do so until just ready to cook.  The removal of the ‘beard’ will begin the demise of the creature, and doing this any lengthy time in advance will definitely undermine the success of your dish. 

Overcooking is a big deal with fish as well.  Every effort against that malady is foremost in this recipe.

3-5 cloves garlic, peeled, medium-thin sliced
            (but grouped together single layer when roasting)

2    bell peppers (color your choice, red is sweetest),

cut into small bite-sized strips

2    small onions, halved pole to pole, cut off ends and peeled,

sliced in small wedges like an orange

2    medium carrots, small bite-sized diced

3-4 stalks celery, small bite-sized diced

1-3 peppers (jalapeno or Serrano) stemmed,

seeded, diced small
            AND/OR 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

1    smallish bulb fennel, sliced quarter-moons 

2    tbs olive oil

salt and pepper

3-4 lbs fish (fresh or fresh thawed!) your call – crab and lobster (pre-cooked, shelled), shrimp (peeled), scallops, oysters, clams, mussels, squid/calamari (cleaned), plus a good hearty white fish like cod, haddock, scrod, trout, tilapia, etc (diced 1-2 inch cubes).  If using shell/bivalve fish options like oysters, mussels and clams, at least double that specific amount in weight (you don’t eat those heavy shells!)

1   pkg salt pork or fatback, about 10-12 oz,

skin removed, rinsed well, diced ¼ inch

2-3  lbs tomatoes, diced medium small plus 1 cup broth,

or 1  28 oz can whole tomatoes, juice and all

1   cup dry white wine

2   quarts chicken stock and/or fish stock 

(watch sodiums and salts)

2   bottles clam juice

1   tsp oregano or 1  tbs  fresh minced

1   tsp dill or 1 tbs fresh minced

1   tsp thyme  or 1 tbs fresh minced
2   3-4 inch peel (color only, no white) orange peel

1   bay leaf

pinch saffron (optional but so nice)

1   tbs (splash) red wine, champagne or sherry vinegar

several glugs or ¼  cup brandy, Courvoisier, cognac,

Armagnac – optional but again so nice

fresh finely diced parsley and basil with just a tiny bit of
            fresh mint and rosemary

Preparation:  Place vegetable pieces in bowl, drizzle oil over, toss and cover all the bits.  Spread out on a baking sheet and salt and pepper.  Place in hot (400°) oven and roast for ten to fifteen minutes, flipping over halfway through.   Place the fish bits in the bowl and do the same oil drizzle and toss.  Remove hot sheet pan from oven and carefully relocate veggies to half of the pan, then place large fin-type fish pieces which are thicker on pan first.  Return to oven for 2-3 minutes, remove, then add shrimp, calamari and/or scallops in with the half-roasted vegetables and fish chunks – plus a fresh sprinkling of salt and pepper – and return to hot oven (could be reset to 'broil') for another four to six minutes (not flipping, watch carefully) until no longer translucent – lightly golden and just underdone (but definitely NOT overdone).

Meanwhile, in the cool stockpot or Dutch oven, add pork bits and bring both pan and bits to heat together.  When beginning to sizzle and color, add the vinegar and let sputter till almost dry, then add the dried spices/bay leaf stirring well, and let bloom a few minutes in the fats.  Next add the tomatoes, wine, clam juice and broth bringing to a bold simmer and adjust flame to support that simmer while carefully breaking apart the tomatoes.  Now add orange peels and reduce liquid content by a quarter to blend and strengthen flavors.  Next carefully add the clams, oysters and mussels.  Simmer gently, covered, while shellfish open and come to perfect done (around three-five minutes) – releasing their 'liquor' into the broth.  Now sprinkle over with fresh herbs if chosen.  When the roasted vegetables and fish in the oven have come ready (fish just under-done), remove and add to the tomato/shellfish mix (separate the garlic and mash well, then blend well with a bit of the broth in a cup and return to the stew) and bring to heat gently until all the shellfish have nicely finished cooking or opened (remove any shells that won’t).  Taste and adjust seasonings.
 

Lastly add the brandy and final fresh herbs, along with any pre-cooked fish (lobster, crab etc), simmering very softly just until you can’t stand it anymore (mostly residual heat to bring all to same heat level) – bring to the table – and serve in a generous bowl with a ‘knob’ of fresh sweet butter on top and a wedge or two of lemon on the side, along with the sourest, crustiest sourdough bread you can find.

Options: Potatoes or pasta may be added, but best if pre-cooked, and added at the final simmer (or in the case of pasta, served over at plating).   Cream always is welcome, but the richness of this dish doesn't require such a final heart confrontation.  But your likes can decide.

BEEF STEW 

Stroganoff meets Bourguignon     serves six to eight

I love both beef stroganoff and also beef bourguignon, so my bent way of thinking thought 'why not trying the two styles together?'  It may have been a long work-week, or a Saturday of wine tasting, I don’t know, but it worked out terrific.  Once upon a time I made beef stroganoff with pickles in it (I had read that this was a traditionally original addition), so with the idea that I love pickles with hamburgers, which is also a foundational beef taste, I gave it a shot.  I loved it.  So, you should too, just don’t overcook them.  Here’s that wild mix of traditions, I hope you like it as much as I did.  I just hope I can remember what I did!

Heat oven to mild heat 275-300°

Tools:  Dutch oven, cutting board and knife, saute/skillet pan

Ingredients:

3-4 lbs beef (chuck roast, top round, loin etc)

           trimmed of gristle, hard fat and/or silverskin,

           cut into bite-sized strips (1 x 2 x ¾)

¼   cup of my spice rub (equal parts – or 1 tbs each –

           paprika, powdered mustard, garlic powder, salt)

2    tsp ground pepper

1    tsp dried thyme

¼   cup flour

2    tbs oil (canola, peanut, vegetable, safflower)
2    tbs butter

2    cups (1 pint) dry red wine (burgundy, pinot noir, merlot)

1    pkg (about 8 oz) fatback/salt pork, trimmed

           of thick skin, rinsed, diced about ¼ inch

1    lb sliced mushrooms

2 medium-sized carrots, sliced at sharp diagonal, 
           then cut in half, lengthwise
1    lb pearl onions (pkg frozen, thawed is great)

1    tbs tomato paste

4    cups (1 quart) chicken or chicken/beef combined broth/stock
1    cup coffee, freshly brewed and strong

2    tbs Hoisin sauce
¼   cup rich fruit jelly - cherry, currant, grape etc.

¼   cup bread and butter pickle slices, cut

           into ‘matchstick’ strips, plus 1 tbs jar vinegar

3-4 green onions, both white and green parts, sliced medium-fine

¼   cup dry sherry    
½   package plain gelatin, bloomed/dissolved in sherry
splash cognac or balsamic vinegar

      1    cup sour cream, yogurt, Greek yogurt

Preparation:  Mix spice rub, pepper, thyme and flour in paper or zip lock bag.  Place meat bits in bag, puff of air and seal.  Shake till all the meat pieces are well covered and remove the bits, saving the left-over powder mix.  In large, broad-bottomed, coverable oven-safe pan (Dutch oven is perfect), heat oil and butter till water has simmered out of butter and just beginning to brown and place meat bits in single layer to sauté, flipping till all pieces are browned.  Cover the simmering meat bits in the wine, coffee and half the broth, bring back to a boil, reduce to a simmer and place in low heated oven, covered, for one and a half hours.  Check occasionally for dryness, stir it all up a bit, and add only tiny bits of broth or more wine if necessary.  The last half-hour, add the wine/gelatin mix.  Stir well.

While the meat is braising, in large cool skillet, place pork bits and bring both pan and pork to heat, until sizzling.  Stir occasionally till just beginning to brown all sides.  Add carrots and pearl onions and bring all to a nice golden, then add the tomato paste.  Allow the paste to brown a bit – stirring into the mass – then dust the leftover flour/herb mix over all the bits and stir into the fat briefly until aroma arises.  Add the mushrooms, Hoisin sauce, jelly and second half of the broth, carefully stir well, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer - simmering long enough to ensure good blending of the dry and wet ingredients and the tenderizing of the vegetables, and to reduce the liquids some (about ten to fifteen minutes), then remove from fire and hold.

At the end of the hour and a half, remove the covered meat from the oven, test for tenderness, and if satisfied - place on low-heated stovetop.  Combine the skillet mix into the braised meat, blend well and continue to heat gently for ten to fifteen minutes more.  Add the green onions, pickles, vinegar, and simmer for five minutes longer and add the liquor and/or balsamic vinegar.  Adjust seasonings and thickness if desired.  At serving add the sour cream/yogurt - the overall color is best if not blended in but rather dolloped over.

Options:  more veggies is never a bad idea.  Celery/celery root, potatoes, turnips, greens, peas (frozen at the last is easiest and best) and/or squash - and more - can always be considered for a greatly hearty stew, as your 'ear' thinks - or what you may have leftover!  

Serve over sturdy, flat, buttered noodles (homemade or dried) – or crushed butter-fried pre-baked (or boiled) potatoes – or in a tortilla – or on rice.  Hey, you decide.



CHICKEN GUISADA
(gee–sah–dah)
serves six to ten

Some folks get the term guisada mixed up with the term asada.  Well, basically - the first is meat prepared braised till very tender in a sauce or gravy, while asada is meat prepared on a grill or a dry heat preparation till caramelized and a great chew.  There, now you're fluent in Spanglish.

Stewed chicken, nothing new here – but this variety will make a nice surprise.  Use it as a filling for tacos, or even more continentally, stuffed in hollowed out breads, or in puff-pastry or pita shells, or with risotto or penne, or add to leftover soup, or humbly sopped on a rustic crust in one hand and hearty cheese in the other.

Tools:  stockpot, cutting board, frying or sauté pan

Prep:  There is now offered in most every supermarket out there a variety of chicken presentations in the frozen foods section.  Most helpful is the selection that offers individually frozen chicken parts – such as skinned, boneless thighs or breasts or tenders.

Other companion ingredients are vegetables and spices, so the creation is not difficult, and the rewards are huge.

Ingredients:    

            3-4   pounds frozen or fresh chicken pieces

            1½   lbs tomatoes (drained canned whole 28 oz,

                        or fresh), roughly diced

1     tbs dried crushed basil or ¼ cup fresh leaves,

          then chopped

             ¼   cup olive, grapeseed and/or canola oil           

1     lbs carrots diced, ½ to ¾ inch

3    stalks celery diced ½ to ¾ inch

2     medium onions diced ½ to ¾ inch

              2    small or one large mild green peppers, roasted,

                        peeled:  bell, poblano and/or New Mexico,

diced ½ to ¾ inch or 1 or 2   7oz canned mild

chiles (as you prefer), diced (peeling not absolutely 

necessary because of size of dice)

3     cloves garlic, chopped/minced fine

            1-2   jalapeños or Serranos, stemmed, seeded if desired,

                        chopped fine

1     tbs oregano
salt and pepper, to taste

Preparation:  In a large stockpot, place chicken parts (frozen or not) in lightly salted water, till just covering the chicken.  Add the basil and bring to boil, lower to simmer and cook covered until the chicken is done.  Remove from broth, allowing broth to continue at high heat, uncovered to reduce.  Let the chicken parts cool enough to remove skin and de-bone if necessary, and cut or tear into inch or so sized chunks.  Replace chicken to reduced broth, add the tomatoes and continue to cook, reduced to a simmer again – and encourage the meat fibers to ‘break up’ in construction, agitating with spoon or spatula or potato masher.  Simmer until the tomatoes have mostly broken down, the broth has considerably reduced and thickened (almost dissipated but very moist), and the chunks have tenderized to a shred.

Meanwhile, you have placed in a medium-hot sauté pan:  the oil, heated well, and added all the vegetables, cooking till tender, then add the garlic and oregano, a pinch of salt and pepper and have been sautéing these elements patiently at a medium light sizzle temperature until they are like candy – sweet, caramelized and just tender, about fifteen or twenty minutes (the time it took to prepare the chicken till ready).

Finally, carefully join the vegetables, spices, juices and oils with the simmered chicken.    You’ve created a masterpiece!

Options:  Try this folded in with, or just presented under, the green chile sauce (in this book) – wonderful together.

Add along with it:  diced or sliced fresh hot peppers, pickled peppers and onions, chopped cilantro, sautéed mushrooms, diced cherry peppers, diced olives (black and/or green), corn kernels, shredded cheese, grated radishes, sour cream or thickened yogurt. Try any of the above with:  A taco with queso fresco and shredded cabbage; with lettuce, fresh tomato and raw onion on a slice of crusty bread; like a hash, with cracked eggs baked on top; or as a stuffing for peppers, tomatoes, pork chops or pita. 

Anybody hungry?

Pies in the sky

Ah, sugar.  More delicious sugar.  Remember, we're not passing along health food here, just something to give a sweet lift and a bright laugh to a day.   Sweets aren't a 'reward' for any behaviour (that way of thinking went out with wedgies and fedoras) - other than a nice giving thought you want to extend. 

Sweets aren't something to complete a regular part of any diet, and to that we all are aware.  But they are certainly there for those special times of celebration, a kindness, a token to brighten a day - or for no reason at all - they're there to fill a rare spot. 

I just had to be an adult here for a tiny moment.

You’ve already gotten a cupboard full of cakes – distinctively different ones that will make you have that one-of-a-kind offering when bringing one of them out to your friends or your special event.  The completely unique and surprising Avocado Cheesecake was passed along to you earlier to try for the holidays.  Well, hopefully, this selection of pies will give you that same culinary edge.  These have been swirling in my head for some time, and now I get to pass them along to you to try and see how happily you can get your dessert kitchen to carry on with a delicious reputation.

Dirty Banana cream pie

something more than bananas in this one

When in Jamaica some time ago, I was treated to a cocktail that quickly became my favorite.  They called it the Dirty Banana.  It was a blended drink, of ice (of course), banana, cream and Tuaca liqueur – a wonderful Italian brandy with a vanilla base. 

Yes, it is a ‘dirty’ look, not a creamy yellow, but a rather dull and not so pretty tan, but trust me – so worth the color alteration.  I usually don’t indulge much in the ‘hard’ alcoholic drink realm, especially the fancy ones, but you can be sure I had at least one Dirty Banana every day while I was there! 

Thus the inspiration for a new take on Banana Cream pie – and further, an easy shift to a Coconut Cream pie (both big loves in my world)!  

There is so little liqueur in these pies (like chocolate-covered liqueur cherries), I wouldn’t be concerned with anyone partaking, but it’s always good to ask (remember, vanilla extract is mostly alcohol as well, and we're staying close to that same amount)..

So, here’s to you Ocho Rios, and thanks for your tasty contribution to my world of cooking!

Crust:  Graham cracker and Fig Newton crust (¾ portion graham crackers – about 12-16 crackers, ¼ portion Fig Newton – about 4-6 fig bars, depending on the size of your chosen pie pan), ¾ to 1 cube melted and cooled butter (as you prefer butter richness), 3 tbs sugar, pinch nutmeg, ¼ cup slivered almonds – in processor, pulse to ‘coarse sand’ add melted butter while running.  Pack in pie dish or springform pan, bake at 350° till just smelling like cookies and let cool, about ten minutes.   

                                    or

Store-bought graham cracker crust (large if possible), or store-bought pie crust, baked till golden, crisp and done, according to directions on the package.

Filling: Separate 3 xl eggs, use yolks, let whites come to room temp while making filling (for meringue topping if you’re choosing that direction) or freeze for later use.

3     egg yolks (or 4, if larger pie)

3     tbs corn starch (or 4, if larger pie)

½   cup white sugar

3     tbs brown sugar

1     very ripe banana, mashed and let set till like a ‘paste’, added

Mash/whisk to blend well.

2    cups milk brought to ‘bathwater’ hot

½   tsp salt

¼   tsp almond extract

Introduce a small drizzle of hot milk to the egg mix, quickly whisk/blend and thin the egg mix, then slowly add about 1 cup more, and quickly whisk/blend again.  Pour egg/milk mixture back into saucepan of hot milk and bring up to a simmer, whisking till thick and beginning to bubble large bubbles, about five minutes.  Remove from heat and add almond extract, let cool.

2-3    tbs Tuaca  brandy liqueur

2-3    ripe but firm bananas, quartered and sliced

            (or just sliced, as you prefer), tossed with

            the Tuaca  and let set, stirring occasionally,

            five to ten minutes minimum (a process called

            macerating)

Fold macerated bananas and any residual Tuaca into cooled cream mix, blend carefully and well.  Spoon into the cooled pie shell.  Keep at a cool room temp while making the topping, or if no topping is desired, cover and chill.

Options:  Prepared packaged vanilla or banana pudding mixes may be used with great results, just be sure to reduce the milk ingredient from three cups to two.  If using the cooked version, let cool to tepid before adding the other ingredients.

Drizzle the finished, topped pie with caramel sauce (below), and/or top with crushed roasted nuts (hazelnuts, almonds, pecans) or dried salted banana chips (yes!).

Dirty Coconut cream pie

Crust:  Graham cracker and Fig Newton crust (¾ portion graham crackers – about 12-16 crackers, ¼ portion Fig Newton – about 4-6 fig bars – depending on the size of your chosen pie pan), ¾ to 1 cube melted and cooled butter (as you prefer butter richness), 3 tbs sugar, pinch nutmeg, ¼ cup slivered almonds – in processor, pulse to ‘coarse sand’ add melted butter while running.  Pack in pie dish or springform pan, bake at 350° till just smelling like cookies and let cool, about ten minutes.  

                                  or

Store-bought graham cracker crust (large if possible), or store-bought pie crust, baked till golden, crisp and done, according to the directions on the package.  Let cool to room temperature.

Filling: Separate 3 xl eggs, use yolks, let whites come to room temp while making filling (for meringue topping if you’re choosing that direction) or freeze for later use.

3    egg yolks (or 4, if larger pie)

3     tbs corn starch (or 4, if larger pie)

½   cup white sugar

3     tbs brown sugar

Mash/whisk to blend well.

2     cups milk brought to ‘bathwater’ hot

½   tsp salt

¼   tsp almond extract

Introduce a small drizzle of hot milk to the egg mix, quickly whisk/blend and thin the egg mix, then slowly add about 1 cup more, and quickly whisk/blend again.  Pour egg/milk mix back into saucepan of hot milk and bring up to a simmer, whisking till thick and beginning to bubble large bubbles, about five minutes.  Remove from heat and add almond extract, let cool.

2-3   tbs Tuaca  brandy liqueur

 1     package coconut flakes or

10-12 oz fresh from the natural

             or health food (ha) store, best

             if laid out on sheet pan and gently

             roasted for five to ten minutes at

             350̊ till lightly golden, very aromatic

             and barely, slightly crisped.

Fold in the Tuaca, then the cooled coconut into cooled cream mix, blend well.   Spoon into the pie shell.  Keep at a cool room temp while making topping, or if no topping is desired, cover and chill.

Options:  Prepared packaged vanilla or coconut pudding mixes may be used with great results, just be sure to reduce the milk ingredient from three cups to two.  If using the cooked version, let cool before adding other ingredients.

Turtle pie

I can’t think of anyone who doesn’t love those chocolate, caramel and nut confections called ‘turtles’.  Making a pie with the same rich mix seemed only natural to my perverse sweet way of thinking.  Yes, it is superbly evil, and was one of the first to go at my testing party (the Avocado Cheesecake gave it a run for its money!).

Crust: Store-bought pie crust (bottom only), baked to golden and crisp according to package instructions, let cool to room temperature.   

    

                                   or

Pulse in processor 16 to 20 chocolate cookies (not Oreo’s with the cream filling, but Oreo’s with the cookie only or similar type chocolate cookie), with ¾ to 1 cube melted and cooled butter (drizzled in while processor is running), 3 tbs sugar (vanilla sugar, if you have it!) and ¼ cup slivered almonds.   Press into pie pan or spring-form pan and bake at 350̊ till it smells like cookies, about 10 minutes, remove and let cool.

If all that you have is regular Oreo-type cookies, go ahead and use them, but omit the butter (the Oreo filling is basically vegetable shortening and sugar).  Mix and assemble as the other recipe above.

Filling bottom - Caramel sauce:  A light-colored pan makes it easier to observe the color of the sugar turning to caramel, which is the main detection of readiness.

 1    cup sugar

¼    cup water

½    cube butter, cut into several slices

½    cup cream

pinch salt

¼-½ tsp cayenne (as you like the spice)

¼    cup chopped roasted nuts (pecans,

          hazelnuts, almonds etc)

Bring sugar, spices and water to boil, boil at a high heat till all sugar is dissolved, swirling occasionally until deep golden amber and making largish bubbles (about fifteen minutes).  Drop in butter, swirl to blend and melt all, then right away remove from heat and pour in cream, let bubble, continue to swirl well to blend to a calm simmer, then (and only now) stir well with a whisk or spoon till a thick, cohesive sauce.  Let cool to a warm room temp.  Pour/slather into baked pie shell to coat bottom, at least ¼-½ inch deep, sprinkle nuts over and gently press to let settle in.  Chill to firm.

Chocolate filling:

Packaged cooked-style chocolate pudding works fine. 

        Reduce milk from three cups to two cups,

        prepared according to package instructions

Blend all well to creamy and thick, let cool till tepid, and slather over caramel coating and level off the top.

Chocolate ganache top coating:

1    cup cream or 1 cup milk plus 1 tbs butter

1    tbs white or dark Karo type corn syrup

½   pound plus a bit (9 oz) of bittersweet

       chocolate shavings, or quality chocolate chips

Splash of either hazelnut, almond or coffee liqueur –

       or dark rum (as you prefer, makes a

       wonderful flavor finish!)

Heat cream or milk/butter to scalding, remove from heat.  Add chocolate bits and let set one minute untouched.  Gently stir to blend until dark and thick.  Let cool slightly.  Stir in the liqueur until completely incorporated.  Pour over chocolate pudding layer, gently smoothing out to a shiny top.  Circle finished pie surface with pecan halves, if you like, for a nice presentation.  Chill pie to set.

Options:  White chocolate pieces/shavings, chocolate chips and/or butterscotch chips may be folded into the slightly cooled chocolate pudding layer. 

Saltiness is a great companion to caramel.  You can sprinkle over the drizzeled caramel topping with sea salt, or other crunchy-type salts.  But take this just a bit further and embed into the molten caramel bottom a layer of salted peanuts, or salted cashews - or 'party' mix, or salted macadamia.   Oooh, yes! 

Drizzled caramel or shaved chocolate and/or roasted chopped nuts may be sprinkled over finished topping choice for your pie if you choose to add a topping.           

For time’s sake, the caramel portion may be made of about a cup to a cup and a half of purchased caramel candy cubes, heated (with cayenne) till melted either in double boiler or in micro at 75% power, half a minute at a time (stir each time) till pourable.  Likewise for an easier time commitment, instant chocolate pudding may be chosen, but remember also reducing the milk addition from three cups to two.

Mud Pies (frozen at its evilest)

Funny name for a reaaaaally great dessert.  Not too hard to make, but a big WOW factor.

Crust:  Pulse in processor 16 to 20 chocolate cookies (not Oreo’s with the cream filling, but Oreo’s with the cookie only or similar type crisp chocolate cookie), with ¾ to 1 cube melted and cooled butter (drizzled in while processor is running), 3 tbs sugar (vanilla sugar would be perfect!) and ¼ cup slivered almonds.  Press into pie pan or spring-form pan and bake at 350̊ till it smells like cookies, about 10 minutes, remove and let cool. 

If all that you have is regular Oreo-type cookies, go ahead and use them, but omit the butter (the filling is basically vegetable shortening and sugar).  Mix and assemble as the other recipe above.
      

                                         or

Store-bought chocolate cookie piecrust or store-bought graham cracker piecrust, or homemade graham cracker crust (see Avocado Cheesecake recipe).   

Filling bottom: Try either or both of the aforementioned caramel and the chocolate ganache – if both, the chocolate over the caramel as they have cooled enough to pour but not melt the other.  Nuts between are great if you like.  Let cool, then refrigerate.

Filling:  You guessed it, your favorite ice cream, frozen yogurt, or frozen pudding dessert of your liking.  Bring out of the freezer as you’re starting the crust, so that it is workable by the time you fill the crust (about 20 minutes or so, but be careful of melting).  Pack well into the shell, return the filled pie (now covered with wax paper or plastic wrap), this time to the freezer and let set up to firm – at least a couple of hours.  When serving, let set out a bit to soften enough to cut, then top with your choice of your favorite toppings and toppers.

Oh, My! Pie

Ok, I've given you all the ingredients and styles - now it's up to you to make sumthin outrageously perfect from that library of info.

Why not try a crisp, flaky pie crust (pre-baked and cooled, whether cookie or pastry), then layer about a half-inch of caramel on it.  But when making that caramel, only add one-third the cream but all the butter.  It makes it more crispy.  Onto the still soft molten deliciousness, sprinkle a half cup of semi-sweet chocolate shavings or chips.  The heat of the caramel will melt them.   Then in the gooey soft and spreadable chocolate, sprinkle flaked, slivered or chopped almonds (smile, you've just made Almond Roca).  Over this you can slather one of the puddings (dirty banana, dirty coconut, chocolate - or especially the Avocado cheesecake!) - chill to set, then serve close to room temperature.  .  I'm drooling as I type.

Hey, make that a cold pie and cover the Almond Roca with your fave ice cream or frozen dessert.

Rice or oat pudding anyone?  Corn pudding do I hear?  Just mix in a bit of dissolved and melted gelatin.  The ideas just pour.  Like chocolate ganache.  Mmmm.

Toppings: 

           

Italian meringue:

Use a glass, copper or metal bowl (enameled is safest).  Do not use plastic (I found out the hard way), or any bowl that has any oil or wax residue (as wood may have).  Clean the bowl that you have chosen very well with detergent dish soap – and rinse and dry very well.

Wiping down with a clean paper towel/cloth with a bit of white vinegar will also help prepare the bowl for meringue.

2-3    egg whites, room temp

Beaten till frothy

¼   tsp each cream of tartar and salt

½   tsp white vinegar

Beat till just getting stiff peaks, three to five minutes.

1    cup sugar simmered in ¼ cup

           (or slightly more if necessary) water

           till about 240-250° (large bubbles)

Heat syrup in shallow pan, easy to pour from.  Slowly drizzle all hot syrup into beaten egg whites at medium speed (in egg area of bowl, not sides of pan or beaters area), raise speed to high, continue till cooled and thick and shiny meringue, about five minutes.

Slather over pie filling (yes, even the ice cream pie, right out of the freezer), sealing to edges, dab out peaks and texture if desired, put pie back in 400° oven for five to ten minutes or till evenly golden on top.  Serve chilled, room temp or chilled slightly cooler than room temperature – whichever works best for the type of pie you’re serving.

Whipped cream topping:

½    cup heavy cream

¼    cup sugar (best if fine or powdered)

pinch salt

½    tsp vanilla extract (or use vanilla sugar below)

Beat till foamy, then the sugar very slowly, and vanilla, while whipping and bring to stiff peaks.  Dollop over served slice pie, or a piped ring on whole pie perimeter

Mascarpone: (very much like cream cheese, but a bit lighter and more ‘delicate’ – yowza good!), whipped with a fork to an even lighter consistency, then sweetened with honey/maple syrup/brown sugar/sugar/vanilla extract – or not – spooned over the served slice.

Crème fraiche / fromage blanc:  the same mix, sweetener options and presentation as the mascarpone.

Sour cream:  Sweetened with a bit of brown sugar and almond extract – lovely.

Toppers:   Caramel sauce; butterscotch sauce; chocolate sauce or ganache; fruit preserves/jams; marshmallow cream (warmed!); crushed (toasted) nuts, flaked coconut, seeds, and granolas; dried fruits (raisins, Craisins, figs, dates, dried cherries etc); M & M’s and other candies (crushed Butterfinger, nut brittle, Oreo’s etc); candied sprinkles and flakes.  Oh my.  

Vanilla sugar 

When I lived in Paris, the only way I could find vanilla was in a 'sugar' form.  It was in packets that were equivalent to a teaspoon of vanilla extract.  It was just something I got used to.  Here in the US, however, that find isn't as regular as it was there and then. 

One way to make it yourself is to take vanilla beans you've used for other projects and have scraped the tiny seeds out of the split pod.  That pod may be carefully rinsed of any broth, milk or other liquid it may have been steeped in - and placed into the depths of your specific sugar container.  That's a heck of a lot better'n throwing them away, and since most every use you have for sugar is in a confection sense, the vanilla only enhances that use. 

Vanilla sugar may also be created by dropping with an eye-dropped, ten or twelve drops of vanilla extract spread around into a quart container of sugar, sealing well, and shaking from time to time.  Eventually the alcohol-based extract will evaporate/seep into the granules of sugar (give it at least a week), and the shaking helps to distribute and break up the ten or twelve drops you've added.  Or you can do both efforts, and create a wonderfully delicious version of sugar that you can store separately from the 'regular' sugar for those special dishes and beverages that will greatly intensify from this simple addition.