A GRAIN OF TRUTH

Grains are the base, the foundation of societies, the continuation of the species – if I may be so bold to proclaim.  Vast fields spanning huge expanses of land are dedicated to the propagation of them.  Their oftimes used term ‘staff of life’ is no misnomer.  The uses, flavors and recipes for grains are so vast, I’m not going to try to give a repertoire of recipes, but lay out my perspective on the basics and treatment for attaining best flavors and textures – with a couple of examples for you to expand from.  Give it your ear.

By definition, grains, simply said, are the seeds of various grasses.  There ya are.  The most commonly known varieties are:  

WHEAT:  Wheat is perhaps the best-recognized grain in the US, if not the world.   In its whole grain form (NOT to be confused with ‘multi-grain’, ‘100% grain’ or ‘full grain’.  Whole wheat may also be found as related varieties known as ‘buckwheat’, ‘kasha’ and ‘bulgur’) it is richest in taste, fuller in texture, and most nutritious in content (in that the ‘bran’, ‘endosperm’ and ‘germ’ are still intact).  The downsides to this form are that ‘light’ bread preparations and pastries are most difficult, ‘quick’ cook methods are not feasible, and ‘mildness’ of taste is basically over-ruled.  In this form, it can be rough-cracked and softened with moisture and used in soups and breakfast cereals.  While ground fine, whole-wheat flour makes a dense, hearty bread or other baked good – even when utilizing leaveners such as sodas and yeasts – or when prepared as a flatbread (naan, tortilla, pita etc).  

In a refined form (the hull, ‘bran’ and ‘germ’ removed), it is paler in color, more susceptible to absorption of liquids and lighter in flavor and in texture.  In this form it is best known in the US, being used as  ‘pastry flour’, ‘all purpose flour’, and ‘bread flour’ – depending on the proportion of protein (in the form of gluten) in the particular variety of wheat grain selected, with ‘pastry’ being the lowest, up to ‘bread’ being the highest.  This form is more suitable with yeasts for most breads; and when whole-wheat flour is used alongside the refined, it makes a more pleasant texture.  It is usually re-fortified with vitamins, minerals and nutrients post-harvest to compensate for the losses brought on in refinement.  Choosing ‘unbleached’ is the best form of the refined option one can choose nutrition-wise.

RICE – Given more detail in the ‘rice is nice’ section of this blog.  It is found in thousands of varieties across the globe.  Like most all grains, it too has a popular use in alcoholic beverages.

CORN – Cultivated for millennia in the Americas.  The propagation has been divided into hundreds of varieties, ranging from very rustic, firm and basic for animal fodder – to very sweet, juicy and light varieties for fine dining.  It can be used fresh and consumed even raw off the cob – or dried and ground to a meal or flour.  In a ground flour or meal presentation, it has been a staple on the human plate for centuries. 

The most common whole grain corn offering is directly off the cob (in thousands of cooked and raw fashions), plus found also in the ever-popular snack – popcorn.  As an alcoholic source, corn not only is used for human consumption (ask anyone in the southern US about ‘white lightnin’), but now is also used as a fuel additive and alternate combustion option.

BARLEY, OATS AND RYE:  Lesser-known grains that are still greatly used, and known perhaps more for their contribution to alcohols and fermented presentations than a daily thought to a chewable diet.  In the US, these were more widely used in times past, and took a ‘back seat’ with the introduction of the more easily grown wheat.  They all contain much less gluten than wheat, making them a less successful option for breads as we know them.  Their flavor, texture and aromas are very unique, unlike the more ‘main-stream’ flavored wheat, making their addition to any food a very obvious one (but a good one!).  Barley makes an excellent flavor/nutrition boost to soups (turkey barley soup is my favorite), breads, cereals and pastas (with barley as an additional flour).   Oats are likewise a huge nutritional contributor, and although used greatly for animal fodder, it also has a very large place on the human plate as well.  Mostly oats are found in ‘rolled’, ‘bran’ and ‘flakes’ presentations, and claim a sizable offering with breakfast, soup, dessert and baking menus.   Rye is the least known with US homes.  It has a delicious specific taste; that as in flour form, works well with breads, crackers and other savory pastry presentations.  Like oats, it can be whole or rolled in use.

GRAIN-LIKE FOODS:  Legumes and seeds that have been used similar to grain for breads and other carbohydrate dishes are quinoa (pronounced ‘keen wah’ – a seed, but not of the grass family), wild rice (a water grass seed), lentils and chickpeas/garbanzo beans (both legumes), and ostensibly couscous (coos-coos) – a northern African grain dish that is basically a dried, crumbled pasta.

PREPARATIONS:  ROAST:  Applying indirect heat, as I have said a few times ;>) in this blog/book, one of our best taste friends is caramelization.  This rings so very true with grain preparations as well.  Like the specific seeds used for coffee and chocolate (can you imagine THEM without caramelization?), the roast has the potential for bringing enormous flavor complexities to any grain/seed dish.   This success may be accomplished through either a dry heat roast, toast or an oil fry preparation.  Roasted corn has a huge presentation selection, ranging from many Native American/Mexican/Italian sources (corn pudding, elote, polentas, salads etc) to European dishes from the east as well as the west.  Roasted cracked wheat grains and bulgurs offer a rich flavor in soups and long-cook dishes, plus offer an enlarged nutrition contribution as well.

TOAST:  Applying direct heat, like a dry frying pan or ‘toaster’ style oven brings a nice fresh ‘up-surge’ of grain flavor.  The essential oils have been encouraged, as with the other heat applications, but in this dry sense, the structure remains more ‘true’, if not wonderfully enhanced.  Toasted oats, barley, wheat (I love the smell of toast in the morning), quinoa, couscous and rye are a scent to behold.  This step as a first one makes the final dish even more richly enjoyable.

FRY:  Some rice examples, Rice Pilaf and Risotto, are prepared by sautéing the selected rice grains in butter/oil/animal fats prior to addition of the waters and liquors.  Toasted or sautéed barley introduced into a hearty soup is famous for many grandmothers to attest.  We can go on for days about fried corn (any couch potato will happily affirm), as the effort is so worth the rich tastes given.  And with wheat, the effects of fried wheat flour (a caramelized roux) are legendary in Creole and Cajun cuisines. 

MOISTURE:  A freshly roasted, toasted or fried grain will be more ‘thirsty’ for moistures to re-constitute the grain texture to an edible state.  Usually, the first moisture added to a dish after heating the grain will be the primary flavor the grain will take on into the individual granule.  Usually this flavor is found with wine in some form; but stocks/broths, flavored oils, juices and various flavored waters are used as well to a lovely success.

Some grains are very hard hulled, or densely formed, requiring that moisture be added patiently and slowly – so, as with many beans and legumes, a good overnight soak may be desired (especially with faro and rye).  Rice often is soaked for extraction of the delicate flavor and using primarily this liquid, continued further to become puddings, drinks and soups.  Dried/treated corn has been ground then re-constituted for centuries, creating many American Indian/Mexican dishes (i.e. masa), Italian polenta, as well as a mandatory Southern staple – grits. 

Some grains, if not all, are grown and/or stored in a fashion that the fine powders of other crushed grains – or a surface residue produced within the growth or storage process – may most likely cover the individual grains, affecting the final cooked tastes and textures.  Submerging, rinsing and draining the grains at least once in cool, fresh water as a basic preparation step makes a good idea for pretty much all grains you wish to use in a dish. 

Cooking most whole grains in a simmer/steam fashion requires about 40-50 minutes cooking time to soften (some after an overnight soak), while most refined grains require 20-30 minutes for their tender ‘bite’.

As with any new idea, always smell the ingredient options together under your experienced nose. Trust how it ‘sounds’ to you.  Try stepping out of your comfort zone and give new taste ideas a try.

Two of my topmost grain recipe thoughts:

ROASTED CORN, ah, roasted wonderfulness.  Of all the grain options, this is certainly one of my favorites.  There’s something about the taste of the caramelization along with the sweetness of the corn that finds such deliciousness.   Whether roasted in a hot pan (lightly oiled or non-stick), or over an open flame, or in a hot oven – the results will be almost the same – light brown edges with an occasional dark bit here and there.  Placing the un-husked cob directly on the coals in a BBQ can make a delicious roasted taste.  Just watch and sniff carefully (plus, removing the ‘silks’ is easier after the corn has cooked).  Just prior to finishing the roast, slather the naked cob in a flavor/texture ‘ointment’ that ensures the adhesion of further tastes and textures.  Some like mayonnaise (famous for just being delicious), some like butter (but try garlic and/or herb butter).  I personally found bleu cheese dressing to make a nice accompaniment to corn.  One can also try a bit of nut-butter as a base slather, starting with the famous peanut butter, but don’t stop there – cashew butter (!), almond butter – so evilly good.  Mix a portion, about a fourth, with three-quarters cow’s milk butter, and use as you would table butter. 

Returning the cob to roast just a bit further (in the case of the BBQ, this time the peeled back corn is set on the grill) sets this ‘slather’ well into the flavor of the corn.  The roasted coating you choose also makes a great adhesion for just one more flavor and texture layer.  Some like grated Parmesan, Grana padano or Cotija cheeses.  Some like crushed nuts/seeds – try sesame, sunflower or caraway seeds!  Some like crushed prepared snack foods like potato chips, corn chips or salty pretzels.  Some also like to sprinkle roasted spices or fresh herbs:  Cumin, paprika, cayenne – it would seem they are made to go with corn.  When all is done, after all the roast, try adding fresh chopped cilantro, thyme, dill and/or tarragon.   And always, salt and pepper.  Remember, your dining guests will most likely have these messy ingredients up their cheeks, and perhaps in their ears, so lavish this dish with only your closest friends! 

A safer ‘less-mess’ version, corn pudding, is almost the same ingredients and options, but the corn is trimmed first, the ‘corn milk’ squee-gee’d off the cob, the corn and sugars slow roasted together with the flavorants, with milk and eggs into a custardy, rich, very flavorful mass.  Yowza.

RICE PUDDING – Another wonderfully delicious taste, and so many versions and preparations for it.  Some choose to start with raw rice (a short grain or arborio), and cook it in three times the volume of milk or half-half (cream is just too rich).  This makes a lovely textural and rich rice, but the ease of scorching the milk is very high – so proceed with caution, stirring often, like risotto.  Sometimes soaking the rice in water and/or milk several hours to overnight will ease the final heat preparation a bit (use the soaking liquid in the cook as well).  When tender, almost mushy and just barely approaching dry, the rice is then mixed with a selection of ‘creamy’ ingredients such as sweet potato mash, pumpkin pie (canned or fresh) filling, nut butters, preserves/jams/marmelades, mashed soft fruits such as very ripe bananas, mangoes, papaya and/or persimmon – even a portion of canned sweetened condensed milk along with canned evaporated milk, which may then be slow baked or stove-top cooked till thick like porridge, and is only limited by your imagination. 

Other versions call for cooked rice, this time long grain (used while warm and soft).  In this preparation, the pudding is prepared as if a custard, with eggs as the gentle thickener.   Either full eggs for a lighter texture, or egg yolks alone for a denser finish.  Simmered in a milk base, with sugar, sweetened condensed milk and/or honey/molasses/maple as well as barley or agave syrups and brought to a careful finish by either baked in a bain-marie (water bath) low and untouched – or roasted dry and stirred occasionally – or very low stove top with careful stirring and blending.

Flavor and texture additions can be diced dried or fresh fruits (dark or golden raisins, dried cherries, dried cranberries/Craisins, dried pineapple, dried apricots/peaches/strawberries etc, dates, currants, figs, fresh berries, fresh cherries, fresh apples/peaches/plums, segments of citrus – oranges, limes, lemons – with their juices added into the original bake). 

Spicing can be the usual cinnamon and vanilla – but try cardamom, nutmeg, cayenne and/or just a hint of allspice.   Almond extract at the finish, simply a breath of luscious.

Subtle textures can be chewy, as in the dried fruits, but a mild crunch may be asserted with nuts, seeds, fresh crunch fruits diced small (apples, pears, jicama, celery etc) or crushed candies and/or candy bars – Butterfinger anyone?   In the warm pudding, try stirring in shaved or morsel bits of chocolate, white chocolate, butterscotch, caramel – yes, it’s bad but so good.

More flavor translating

SCRAMBLED EGGS AND POOR MAN’S CHEESE

In Paris, on a day off while exploring a new neighborhood, I found a small café where I ordered a breakfast of eggs and ham (jambon) and fresh-baked bread.  I have to say these were the best eggs I’ve ever eaten, and there was nothing ‘fancy’ about them.  Fresh eggs, fresh sweet butter, fresh spices and herbs, fresh bread – that’s it.  Fresh is a huge ingredient of any dish.

In those budgetary days, I searched for ways to mitigate the pricey food options (like cheese) and still have a good hearty meal.  As with other translated recipes, I found that substituting cheese with bread chunks in my scrambled eggs to have a tasty and textural pleasantness, and to be a good idea -- as it was not only a great replacement, but was delicious on its own in spite of the reason.  Necessity being the mother of invention, I tried sautéing cubes of a good hearty bread that I had in the pantry, in butter and garlic.  The sautéed bread (don’t go all the way to ‘crisp’) made a good chewy mouth texture, while the butter flavor completely satisfied the richness.

Prep:  In a large sauté pan or skillet, place one or two tablespoons butter, margarine, heart healthy butter-flavored margarine and/or olive oil and fresh minced garlic to a gentle sizzle and remove any water in the fats.  Cube one or two slices of bread (crust removed or not as you prefer) in ½ - ¾ inch dice and place in hot fat and begin to sauté.  The bread will absorb the fat and take a softly crisp texture (not quite as far as ‘crouton’), while the surface is brought to a golden light crust on the cubes. 

In a bowl, beat four to six eggs (for two to three people) well with a splash or water, milk or canned evaporated milk and pour over the bread, garlic and butter in the hot pan, soaking them in the egg mix.  I like that my scrambled eggs have medium to large-ish curds, and not highly mixed to a small-grained curd as is sometimes found in mass-produced scrambled eggs.  To achieve this, stir the ingredients together right away, then let set.  Salt and pepper lightly.  After twenty or thirty seconds, with a flat bottomed spatula flipped upside down, gently scrape the eggs from the bottom of the pan like a bulldozer and push into mounds of varying sizes in the pan. After a second or two, flip to the wet sides and continue to sauté gently until the eggs appear no longer wet and runny, but ‘juicy’ moist, and remove from heat and quickly from the pan to serve.  The residual heat will finish cooking the eggs on the way to the table.  What started as a money-saving idea ended up being a great taste all its own.

Options:  Nothing beats the flavor of fresh eggs scrambled in fresh sweet butter and a fresh cracking of black pepper and salt, but if you wish to go for additions to those basics, give these suggestions a try:

           

            Fold in a choice of these pre-cooked,warm items three-quarters of the way through the cooking of the eggs:

                        Sliced mushrooms sautéed with fresh garlic and

                                sweet onions or shallots and a sprinkle of thyme

                        Fresh ripe tomatoes, diced with sautéed minced

                                jalapeños and cilantro (or canned such as

                                Rotel brand)

                        Water chestnuts and green onions (the white end,

                                lightly sautéed) with a splash of soy sauce and

                                green ends finely diced up on top

                        Broken up cooked bacon pieces (or fried diced cubes of

                                firm tofu) and fresh sliced spinach, with a pinch

                                of nutmeg with bits of cream cheese

                        Fresh-shredded meltable cheeses – cheddar, jack, pepper

                                jack, Edam, Swiss/Gruyère, Brie etc and herbs

                        Diced cooked/prepared sausages, kielbasa, chorizo, ham,

                                smoky links etc with a dusting of oregano

                   Bits of asparagus, sautéed onions and minced chives

                                plus toasted nuts

                        Leftover meats or vegetables, lightly sautéed to bring

                                to warm, shredded white cheddar

                        Sautéed or roasted shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams

                                and/or lobster with a bit of tarragon

                        Large-grated zucchini lightly sautéed with a bit of dill

                                and folded with dollops of Neufchatel

            Topping choices for the eggs:

                        Sour cream, crème fraiche, fromage blanc, Greek yogurt

                        Fresh grated dry/hard cheese -- Parmesan, Romano,
                                pecorino, Asiago; crumbled feta, Cotija etc

                        Guacamole or fresh sliced avocado

                        Bottled hot sauce – Thai chili paste, Tabasco, Cholula,
                                Louisiana hot sauce etc or pepper flakes

Any fresh chopped herb – parsley, thyme, rosemary,
        cilantro, oregano, basil, dill, tarragon, chives, green
        onions

                        Any fresh cream gravy (white or brown), white/cheese
                                sauce, nut sauce, hollandaise, salsa

                        Nuts – roasted chopped almonds, sesame seeds, sunflower
                                seeds, roasted pumpkin seeds, crushed peanuts

         Caviar

         Yes, and Cheese, hundreds to choose from.

           

For an extra bit of taste and texture, try the prepared eggs on a slice of buttered hearty toast or English muffin – a delicious and excellent ‘fast food’ (real food) meal on the go in one hand!   

BBQ WITH CITRUS                                                         

serves party of fifteen to twenty or so

Once again, we have that primal flame-cooked urge for our meat.  Smokey, hot, crusty and slightly sweet – all the base longings we’ve most likely pursued for eons.  We goop our fingers, have sauce up to our ears, and enjoy immensely every smeary, gooey, spicy moment of it.   That’s what most folks in the US think of the idea of BBQ.

I’ve enjoyed a little less gooey version that still has all the fun, but this time the idea of BBQ is not a tomato-based sauce.

In southern California, you can find the most amazing food in little ‘hole-in-the-wall’ places.  From one such place with a hand-painted sign of various words including ‘carnes’ in the delicatessen’s title, a friend took me to pick up some ‘carne asada’ (kar-nay ah-sah-dah), which at the time I had no idea what we were getting.  She took the marinated raw deli meat home and BBQ’ed it outside and served us dinner.  My mouth fainted.  It was absolutely perfect in my mind how meat should taste.  Tender, juicy -- yet I knew it was originally a skirt steak which should have been tough and dry, but here were tastes and flavors of citrus, other fruits, garlic and I didn’t know what – and it melted in my mouth.  It opened my eyes to what B-B-Q or barbacoa or barbe a queue could be all about.

My version here is one that I’ve used for parties, easy to make for a crowd, and tastes like I spent hours, but in fact spent very little time at all.  It seems more tropical, although Mexican does in fact include tropical in a big way.  This is my version based on that memorable day seeing the sign with the word ‘carnes’.

Tools:  BBQ or kitchen grill pan; large zip-lock storage bags; blender or food processor; cutting board; tongs

Prep:  The marinating meat will need time to, well, marinate.  Use a cheaper cut of meat, like the flank, hanger or skirt steak, blade chuck or brisket, and choose a similar meat cut offering if preparing pork:  A thinner cut, a fair melding of fat and meat, and less gristle or bone.  Cut the inch or less thick meat into strips (carving around the bone and gristle if present) about three quarters of an inch wide or as narrow as half an inch.  Shrimp is outrageously good, but be careful of overcooking – which is easy to do on the grill.  Skewering  'en masee' helps organize and keep them from falling between the rungs.  A larger size (20-25 per pound or larger) is the best thought.  If not 'right off the boat' fresh, then individually quick frozen (IQF) is your best bet.  What is 'fresh' in the display has been frozen and thawed, so your freshest choice is the IQF.  Thaw in the refrigerator overnite, or let submerge in warm water for a half hour, draining and refilling at least once.  Fish fillets work very well also if carefully handled.  If using chicken, freeze the raw meat for fifteen minutes, then cut the firmed flesh into the same sized strips.  The strips should be as long as you can cut them (as the intended presentation will be for a sandwich or taco) and long enough to rest easily across the grill rungs without falling through, so ‘butter-flying’ portions of chicken flesh lengthwise to increase length before cutting into strips is a great idea.

Place on hot grill with the marinade coating, which will definitely begin to caramelize rapidly.  Ideally, the slenderness of the strips will not allow enough sustained contact that could bring over-caramelization and burning.  The onions and peppers are sautéed separately, but are served tossed together with the meats at serving.

Ingredients: 

             1     2-3  pounds skirt, flank, hanger, brisket steak;

                           pork loin, chops, roast -- cut into ½ inch ‘French fry’
                           strips

             4     boneless, skinless chicken breasts, chilled firm and cut
                           lengthwise into same strips

          2-3    pounds raw shrimp (no smaller than the 26-30 count if
                          not skewering – check the size to your grill spacing)
                    tail-on or off and/or a mix of 2-3 pounds fish fillets
                          (cod, haddock, catfish, snapper, halibut, trout, tilapia,
                          swordfish, salmon etc) and/or calamari, abalone,
                          oysters (en brochette) or lobster

          1     large container, 16 oz frozen orange juice concentrate,
                          thawed

             1     can 12 oz papaya nectar drink, or the real fresh juice
                          if you can find it -- optional, but great if obtainable 
                    (papaya is a natural meat tenderizer) -- if
                          un-obtainable, use one can 12 oz guava nectar

             1     cup apple cider vinegar

          4-6     limes, zest and juice (zest first, then squeeze the juice –

                          about ½ cup juice, 2-3 tbs zest)

          2-3     small sweet onions/cipollini, fresh scallions, or Vidalia
                          type, peeled and rough chopped

         3-5     cloves garlic

             1     thumb-tip sized piece of peeled ginger, fine chopped
                          or grated

            ½     tsp cayenne pepper

            ½     tsp each oregano, thyme and rosemary, dried

            ¼     tsp (tiny pinch) each cloves, cinnamon, and allspice          
          2     tsp each salt and fresh ground pepper

          1-2    jalapeño, Serrano, habañero peppers (optional – your
                         choice for heat and flavor), stemmed, seeded, veined

                         or 1-2 chipotle chiles (smoked, dried jalapeño chiles,
                         in sauce) diced, for a smoky addition

          4-5    medium-large onions, ends removed, wedge cut from
                        pole to pole

          4-5    bell peppers, color choices are yours, stemmed, seeded/
                        veined, and cut into strips

          2-3    cloves minced garlic, heated in oil to flavor the onions
                        and peppers

          pinch each salt and pepper 

Add the fourth through the fifteenth ingredients (the hot peppers if desired) into the blender or food processor and purée till completely blended.  Put the strip-sliced meats and fishes into separate zip-lock bags.  Add enough marinade to each to cover in order of length of time needed to marinate.  Place the red meats in one bag (four to eight hours), chicken in another (one to three hours), and the shrimp/fish in another (twenty to thirty minutes max – we’re not making ceviche).  Squeeze out all the air and zip closed, place in container to secure any leaks, and chill well in the refrigerator – massage them once or twice. 

Initially, chill everything separately, the dry, unmarinated meats and fishes in separate bags, the orange marinade in its own bag or jar – and introduce the marinade to the meats in their bags all so that they are ready at the same time.  Yeah, you do have to plan ahead a bit.  If your party is at four in the afternoon, then start the red meat at least eight/nine-ish in the morning or so, if not the day before, then the chicken at noon - up to two in the afternoon, and the fish at three-thirty.

Heat BBQ coals, grill pan, or begin the gas system, until the grate/surface is very hot, and clean/brush well.  Lower to medium hot and apply oil to the grate with a vegetable oil-dipped wad of paper towel held by tongs and lube well.  In fact, lube several times repeatedly with a few minutes between.  It will build up a better layer of ‘non-stick’ quality that is best for the sugars involved.

Place the meats directly onto the medium-hot to hot grill from the zip-lock bag, draining/shaking off most the thick marinade but leaving what adheres (don’t rinse off).  The strips will cook quickly, so turn with the tongs just once.  Caramelization is imperative – and actually, for that matter, unavoidable. 

Red meat should be cooked to tender but still pink (1½ to 2 minutes a side).  The chicken must be cooked through (it should cook slightly longer, but it does cook faster, so put it on first and don't walk away), so go for about 2 minutes a side or so.  Cut a strip open to be sure before removing.

Shrimp cooked in the shell gives a much bigger flavor, as well as the shell protecting the delicate flesh from the stark heat of the grill.  BBQ’ing shrimp in the shell here in this recipe is an option, but peeling to eat is difficult in a presentation of hot and messy coating such as this recipe offers.  Should you already have shrimp that's in the shell you’d like to use here, you can peel and freeze the shells for stock (refer to the stock section of ‘on the same page’ as well as the 'soup' stock entry).

 

The peeled shrimp will require strict attention, as they cook very quickly and will overcook in an instant.  The citrus juices already have started to ‘cook’ or 'denature' the flesh a bit, so carefull attention in cooking is top priority - don't walk away from this BBQ choice.  Fish and shellfish have a different.protein structure, and require a lower cooking heat, so finding a cooler spot on the grill is a best option.  And best yet, layering at least two sheets of aluminum foil under the fish/shrimp helps contain and protect the morsels to the optimum finish.  Also, a fish basket can contain the delicate fillets or shrimp, which is absolute best.  In cooking, they should appear just barely past opaque and just becoming firm (they will continue to cook a bit after removal).  Don’t try to caramelize on both sides, just the first.

Fish tacos: Fillets are also most delicate.  You will find it easier to use a non-stick fish ‘basket’ to handle the fish on the grill, or cover the area of the grill with a double thick layer of aluminum foil for just the fish/shrimp.  Having a clean and oiled grill may or may not save the fillets from gluing themselves to the grill top.  But hey, a fish taco is worth it!   You’ll need shredded cabbage and soft corn tortillas, covered with the roasted green chile or cilantro cream sauce! Plus salsa and lots of fresh squeezed lime.  That’s it, perfect!

In large frying pan or the BBQ grill pan, sauté the strips of onion and peppers, along with the seasoning, in oil and garlic till tender and browned on the edges.  Serve with the meats.   This is an amazingly alternate idea of ‘BBQ’ and you’ll love the difference.  Serve up on soft split grilled rolls, fresh corn or flour tortillas, pita bread, or even like a pizza, on a grilled fresh pizza dough round (or store bought prepared).

Must do:  Finally, as a contrasting accent, choose ‘cool’ condiments like diced cucumber, mango and tomato; shredded lettuce and/or cabbage; sour cream/Mexican crema; shredded cheeses; cilantro; chopped olives; diced sweet onions; chilled salsas – especially the ones I’ve given in this book; chilled sliced radishes; pomegranate seeds; dry grated aged cheeses; black beans and black bean sauce; and most importantly, a squeeze of lots of fresh lime - your mouth will be delighted.

This method of BBQ could be assumed to become a burnt sugar nightmare, but not really.  It will cause some mess, but burn off the residue after all is done by covering and returning the finished empty grill to high heat, and then give a good scrape, just as how you started.  You’ll be glad you layered the oil in preparation.

Roasted green chile cream sauce:  use either one or two roasted, seeded and peeled poblano peppers or purchase a can or cans (7 to 14 oz, as you prefer) of mild green chiles and whirl in the processor with three-quarters cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a pinch each of salt, cayenne and cumin.

Cilantro cream sauce:  Simply blend one or two bunches of fresh rough-chopped cilantro tops and the slender upper stems, limejuice, fresh garlic, salt and pepper with sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt in the blender/food processor till lightly green and very aromatic.  Fold in fine-diced green onions, fresh  chopped cilantro and/or chives after blending for a bit of texture.