A GRAIN OF TRUTH

Grains are the base, the foundation of societies, the continuation of the species – if I may be so bold to proclaim.  Vast fields spanning huge expanses of land are dedicated to the propagation of them.  Their oftimes used term ‘staff of life’ is no misnomer.  The uses, flavors and recipes for grains are so vast, I’m not going to try to give a repertoire of recipes, but lay out my perspective on the basics and treatment for attaining best flavors and textures – with a couple of examples for you to expand from.  Give it your ear.

By definition, grains, simply said, are the seeds of various grasses.  There ya are.  The most commonly known varieties are:  

WHEAT:  Wheat is perhaps the best-recognized grain in the US, if not the world.   In its whole grain form (NOT to be confused with ‘multi-grain’, ‘100% grain’ or ‘full grain’.  Whole wheat may also be found as related varieties known as ‘buckwheat’, ‘kasha’ and ‘bulgur’) it is richest in taste, fuller in texture, and most nutritious in content (in that the ‘bran’, ‘endosperm’ and ‘germ’ are still intact).  The downsides to this form are that ‘light’ bread preparations and pastries are most difficult, ‘quick’ cook methods are not feasible, and ‘mildness’ of taste is basically over-ruled.  In this form, it can be rough-cracked and softened with moisture and used in soups and breakfast cereals.  While ground fine, whole-wheat flour makes a dense, hearty bread or other baked good – even when utilizing leaveners such as sodas and yeasts – or when prepared as a flatbread (naan, tortilla, pita etc).  

In a refined form (the hull, ‘bran’ and ‘germ’ removed), it is paler in color, more susceptible to absorption of liquids and lighter in flavor and in texture.  In this form it is best known in the US, being used as  ‘pastry flour’, ‘all purpose flour’, and ‘bread flour’ – depending on the proportion of protein (in the form of gluten) in the particular variety of wheat grain selected, with ‘pastry’ being the lowest, up to ‘bread’ being the highest.  This form is more suitable with yeasts for most breads; and when whole-wheat flour is used alongside the refined, it makes a more pleasant texture.  It is usually re-fortified with vitamins, minerals and nutrients post-harvest to compensate for the losses brought on in refinement.  Choosing ‘unbleached’ is the best form of the refined option one can choose nutrition-wise.

RICE – Given more detail in the ‘rice is nice’ section of this blog.  It is found in thousands of varieties across the globe.  Like most all grains, it too has a popular use in alcoholic beverages.

CORN – Cultivated for millennia in the Americas.  The propagation has been divided into hundreds of varieties, ranging from very rustic, firm and basic for animal fodder – to very sweet, juicy and light varieties for fine dining.  It can be used fresh and consumed even raw off the cob – or dried and ground to a meal or flour.  In a ground flour or meal presentation, it has been a staple on the human plate for centuries. 

The most common whole grain corn offering is directly off the cob (in thousands of cooked and raw fashions), plus found also in the ever-popular snack – popcorn.  As an alcoholic source, corn not only is used for human consumption (ask anyone in the southern US about ‘white lightnin’), but now is also used as a fuel additive and alternate combustion option.

BARLEY, OATS AND RYE:  Lesser-known grains that are still greatly used, and known perhaps more for their contribution to alcohols and fermented presentations than a daily thought to a chewable diet.  In the US, these were more widely used in times past, and took a ‘back seat’ with the introduction of the more easily grown wheat.  They all contain much less gluten than wheat, making them a less successful option for breads as we know them.  Their flavor, texture and aromas are very unique, unlike the more ‘main-stream’ flavored wheat, making their addition to any food a very obvious one (but a good one!).  Barley makes an excellent flavor/nutrition boost to soups (turkey barley soup is my favorite), breads, cereals and pastas (with barley as an additional flour).   Oats are likewise a huge nutritional contributor, and although used greatly for animal fodder, it also has a very large place on the human plate as well.  Mostly oats are found in ‘rolled’, ‘bran’ and ‘flakes’ presentations, and claim a sizable offering with breakfast, soup, dessert and baking menus.   Rye is the least known with US homes.  It has a delicious specific taste; that as in flour form, works well with breads, crackers and other savory pastry presentations.  Like oats, it can be whole or rolled in use.

GRAIN-LIKE FOODS:  Legumes and seeds that have been used similar to grain for breads and other carbohydrate dishes are quinoa (pronounced ‘keen wah’ – a seed, but not of the grass family), wild rice (a water grass seed), lentils and chickpeas/garbanzo beans (both legumes), and ostensibly couscous (coos-coos) – a northern African grain dish that is basically a dried, crumbled pasta.

PREPARATIONS:  ROAST:  Applying indirect heat, as I have said a few times ;>) in this blog/book, one of our best taste friends is caramelization.  This rings so very true with grain preparations as well.  Like the specific seeds used for coffee and chocolate (can you imagine THEM without caramelization?), the roast has the potential for bringing enormous flavor complexities to any grain/seed dish.   This success may be accomplished through either a dry heat roast, toast or an oil fry preparation.  Roasted corn has a huge presentation selection, ranging from many Native American/Mexican/Italian sources (corn pudding, elote, polentas, salads etc) to European dishes from the east as well as the west.  Roasted cracked wheat grains and bulgurs offer a rich flavor in soups and long-cook dishes, plus offer an enlarged nutrition contribution as well.

TOAST:  Applying direct heat, like a dry frying pan or ‘toaster’ style oven brings a nice fresh ‘up-surge’ of grain flavor.  The essential oils have been encouraged, as with the other heat applications, but in this dry sense, the structure remains more ‘true’, if not wonderfully enhanced.  Toasted oats, barley, wheat (I love the smell of toast in the morning), quinoa, couscous and rye are a scent to behold.  This step as a first one makes the final dish even more richly enjoyable.

FRY:  Some rice examples, Rice Pilaf and Risotto, are prepared by sautéing the selected rice grains in butter/oil/animal fats prior to addition of the waters and liquors.  Toasted or sautéed barley introduced into a hearty soup is famous for many grandmothers to attest.  We can go on for days about fried corn (any couch potato will happily affirm), as the effort is so worth the rich tastes given.  And with wheat, the effects of fried wheat flour (a caramelized roux) are legendary in Creole and Cajun cuisines. 

MOISTURE:  A freshly roasted, toasted or fried grain will be more ‘thirsty’ for moistures to re-constitute the grain texture to an edible state.  Usually, the first moisture added to a dish after heating the grain will be the primary flavor the grain will take on into the individual granule.  Usually this flavor is found with wine in some form; but stocks/broths, flavored oils, juices and various flavored waters are used as well to a lovely success.

Some grains are very hard hulled, or densely formed, requiring that moisture be added patiently and slowly – so, as with many beans and legumes, a good overnight soak may be desired (especially with faro and rye).  Rice often is soaked for extraction of the delicate flavor and using primarily this liquid, continued further to become puddings, drinks and soups.  Dried/treated corn has been ground then re-constituted for centuries, creating many American Indian/Mexican dishes (i.e. masa), Italian polenta, as well as a mandatory Southern staple – grits. 

Some grains, if not all, are grown and/or stored in a fashion that the fine powders of other crushed grains – or a surface residue produced within the growth or storage process – may most likely cover the individual grains, affecting the final cooked tastes and textures.  Submerging, rinsing and draining the grains at least once in cool, fresh water as a basic preparation step makes a good idea for pretty much all grains you wish to use in a dish. 

Cooking most whole grains in a simmer/steam fashion requires about 40-50 minutes cooking time to soften (some after an overnight soak), while most refined grains require 20-30 minutes for their tender ‘bite’.

As with any new idea, always smell the ingredient options together under your experienced nose. Trust how it ‘sounds’ to you.  Try stepping out of your comfort zone and give new taste ideas a try.

Two of my topmost grain recipe thoughts:

ROASTED CORN, ah, roasted wonderfulness.  Of all the grain options, this is certainly one of my favorites.  There’s something about the taste of the caramelization along with the sweetness of the corn that finds such deliciousness.   Whether roasted in a hot pan (lightly oiled or non-stick), or over an open flame, or in a hot oven – the results will be almost the same – light brown edges with an occasional dark bit here and there.  Placing the un-husked cob directly on the coals in a BBQ can make a delicious roasted taste.  Just watch and sniff carefully (plus, removing the ‘silks’ is easier after the corn has cooked).  Just prior to finishing the roast, slather the naked cob in a flavor/texture ‘ointment’ that ensures the adhesion of further tastes and textures.  Some like mayonnaise (famous for just being delicious), some like butter (but try garlic and/or herb butter).  I personally found bleu cheese dressing to make a nice accompaniment to corn.  One can also try a bit of nut-butter as a base slather, starting with the famous peanut butter, but don’t stop there – cashew butter (!), almond butter – so evilly good.  Mix a portion, about a fourth, with three-quarters cow’s milk butter, and use as you would table butter. 

Returning the cob to roast just a bit further (in the case of the BBQ, this time the peeled back corn is set on the grill) sets this ‘slather’ well into the flavor of the corn.  The roasted coating you choose also makes a great adhesion for just one more flavor and texture layer.  Some like grated Parmesan, Grana padano or Cotija cheeses.  Some like crushed nuts/seeds – try sesame, sunflower or caraway seeds!  Some like crushed prepared snack foods like potato chips, corn chips or salty pretzels.  Some also like to sprinkle roasted spices or fresh herbs:  Cumin, paprika, cayenne – it would seem they are made to go with corn.  When all is done, after all the roast, try adding fresh chopped cilantro, thyme, dill and/or tarragon.   And always, salt and pepper.  Remember, your dining guests will most likely have these messy ingredients up their cheeks, and perhaps in their ears, so lavish this dish with only your closest friends! 

A safer ‘less-mess’ version, corn pudding, is almost the same ingredients and options, but the corn is trimmed first, the ‘corn milk’ squee-gee’d off the cob, the corn and sugars slow roasted together with the flavorants, with milk and eggs into a custardy, rich, very flavorful mass.  Yowza.

RICE PUDDING – Another wonderfully delicious taste, and so many versions and preparations for it.  Some choose to start with raw rice (a short grain or arborio), and cook it in three times the volume of milk or half-half (cream is just too rich).  This makes a lovely textural and rich rice, but the ease of scorching the milk is very high – so proceed with caution, stirring often, like risotto.  Sometimes soaking the rice in water and/or milk several hours to overnight will ease the final heat preparation a bit (use the soaking liquid in the cook as well).  When tender, almost mushy and just barely approaching dry, the rice is then mixed with a selection of ‘creamy’ ingredients such as sweet potato mash, pumpkin pie (canned or fresh) filling, nut butters, preserves/jams/marmelades, mashed soft fruits such as very ripe bananas, mangoes, papaya and/or persimmon – even a portion of canned sweetened condensed milk along with canned evaporated milk, which may then be slow baked or stove-top cooked till thick like porridge, and is only limited by your imagination. 

Other versions call for cooked rice, this time long grain (used while warm and soft).  In this preparation, the pudding is prepared as if a custard, with eggs as the gentle thickener.   Either full eggs for a lighter texture, or egg yolks alone for a denser finish.  Simmered in a milk base, with sugar, sweetened condensed milk and/or honey/molasses/maple as well as barley or agave syrups and brought to a careful finish by either baked in a bain-marie (water bath) low and untouched – or roasted dry and stirred occasionally – or very low stove top with careful stirring and blending.

Flavor and texture additions can be diced dried or fresh fruits (dark or golden raisins, dried cherries, dried cranberries/Craisins, dried pineapple, dried apricots/peaches/strawberries etc, dates, currants, figs, fresh berries, fresh cherries, fresh apples/peaches/plums, segments of citrus – oranges, limes, lemons – with their juices added into the original bake). 

Spicing can be the usual cinnamon and vanilla – but try cardamom, nutmeg, cayenne and/or just a hint of allspice.   Almond extract at the finish, simply a breath of luscious.

Subtle textures can be chewy, as in the dried fruits, but a mild crunch may be asserted with nuts, seeds, fresh crunch fruits diced small (apples, pears, jicama, celery etc) or crushed candies and/or candy bars – Butterfinger anyone?   In the warm pudding, try stirring in shaved or morsel bits of chocolate, white chocolate, butterscotch, caramel – yes, it’s bad but so good.