Vegging out

I’ve shared with you a great cornucopia of vegetable-based or vegetable-oriented dishes – like the cranberry sauce/relish, the twice-baked potatoes and all kinds of fries, some wonderful green beans, sumptuous baked beans, plus a plethora of soups, zesty chiles rellenos, (my secret love) ratatouille – and more.  Well, here are some additional foody ideas, so that you may stay in good health always – with good taste, of course.

PEAS

ON EARTH

BABY PEAS, YOUNG PEAS,

PETIT POIS (petty-pwa)

Europe seems to have a better relationship with this humble little green vegetable than we yanks do.  England has amazing fresh pea soups and a plethora of mashed peas or mushy peas.  France has a lovely braised pea and lettuce dish (I do love those braised surprises).   Italian pea dishes use the little guy in a baked dish with fresh herbs.  And they all pretty much have basically the same ingredients and flavor enhancements, but just different presentations.  This recipe is the basics of all of these countries’ idea of the pea, and you can run with it to your pea-pickin’ heart’s content.

Most all the recipes of these origins are based first with the pea, butter, then sweet onions and salt and pepper – some sweetener, a thick ‘gravy’ carrier and fresh herbs follow suit.  Finally, a finish with some crunch factor, whether bacon bits, nuts, or the introduction of other crisp vegetables.

Tools:  cutting board and knife, food processor, saucepan

Prep: Frozen peas are the best option, as they are lightly braised then chilled within hours of harvest, saving the best texture and nutrition.  Canned varieties may seem sufficient, but usually choose to use an elevated contribution of salts and other preservatives.  I don’t recommend cooking the frozen peas much further, other than bringing to ‘thawed’ and room temperature.  Minor cooking with the other ingredients is the best option for enhancing the blend of the ingredients.  Thawing is best done by placing the frozen in the refrigerator to slowly thaw, or in the microwave at 30% power (usually marked as ‘thaw’).  It doesn’t take long, especially with the tiny size of what you’re thawing.

2      packages peas (usually 10 oz each) – the smaller,

the sweeter and more tender – baby peas,

petit peas (frozen - not in the can or jar)

1      package onions – pearl, red pearl, cipollini, thawed

– or fresh leeks small diced

½     tsp salt

½     tsp pepper

1      tbs sugar/honey

2      tbs butter and/or olive oil mix

¼     head lettuce, sliced in ½ inch ribbons
1      tbs flour

¾     cup milk – canned, half/half or cream

2      oz cream cheese (one-fourth of an 8 oz block)

1      cup broth/stock

1      tsp lemon juice or rice/sherry/champagne vinegar

4-6   leaves fresh mint, chiffonade

1      tsp fresh oregano, minced (dried is OK, reduce to ½ tsp)

2 tbs-¼ cup toasted slivered almonds, pine nuts, sunflower

nuts, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds etc
            as you like 'crunch'

Bacon/pancetta/salt pork – the fat and the crisped bits –

about 1/3 pound pre-cooked, with about

1 tbs fat

Options:  For color, texture and variety – as well as flavor and nutrition (folded in at the end):  Carrots, diced medium; winter squash – the oranger the better -  diced and roasted; legumes/beans – red, kidney, lima, white/cannellini, garbanzo/chickpea, fava etc.  You have the tasty braised lettuce, but try also halved diagonals of peeled cucumber, also lightly braised - 'lish! 

Preparation:  Take one package of the room temperature peas, the sweetener, salt and pepper, and process with half the broth/stock (room temperature or warmer) to a smooth and thick ‘paste’.  Meanwhile, heat the saucepan to mid-hot, and add the butter – or oil and butter mixture and bring to a toasted ‘nutty’ golden (butter will do this, not oil alone).  When just beginning to become lightly toasted, add the onions or leeks and continue to fry/toast them in the fats until they too begin to golden.  Add the flour and continue to bring it as well to a golden hue and nutty scent.  To this add the rest of the broth, the lettuce, the acid (lemon juice or vinegar), the milk or canned milk, the tiny bit of cream cheese – and finally the second package of the room temperature peas.  Heat, stirring well, only until it begins to simmer gently.  Fold in the fresh chopped herbs, the pea puree, and any other roasted vegetables you may wish to include - plus your 'crunch factor' found in other veggies, nuts or crisped pork bits - plus the pork fat - in the dish and gently fold together to a final, lovely ‘mash’.

   

Optional options:  Hey garlic, how can we have pork and not garlic?  And other herbs – most any of the ‘grassy’ herbs fare well with peas – cilantro, chives, parsley, mint (as you know), plus the heartier varieties such as tarragon, basil, thyme, oregano etc.  Other ideas to fold into the mass at the serving could be meats – sausages, shredded pork, diced ham.

And mushrooms, there's always room for mushrooms!  Lovely, meaty, rich and tasty - sauteed in garlic and a bit of wine - wonderful mushrooms. 

And why not adding to that diced avocado chunks, fresh diced tomatoes, roasted peppers – pick a country!

But you have to try it first as the simpler basic version - Enjoy! 

BRAISED LEEKS

WITH HAM

serves four to six

When I lived in Paris, I sometimes would eat dishes for lunch that I’d find in delicatessens around the neighborhood I worked, or if on an errand, in other arrondissements I found myself.  Arrondissements (are-on-diss-mon) are neighborhoods associated by the then relatively new five digit postal ‘zip’ codes, which were introduced in 1973, I was there in ‘74 and ‘75.  My mail came to 75005.  One such find was quite new to me, so I thought I’d give it a try.  I had never heard of endives (on-deev) – a mild type of chicory, like radicchio – but they had Belgian endives braised in wine and chicken broth and wrapped in ham.  These rolls were then baked in a Béchamel (white) sauce till all bubbly.  It was incredible. 

Belgian endives aren’t easy to find or can be expensive, so I tried using leeks (such a wonderful flavor and aroma) that I’d braised till tender and did the same wrap and presentation.  Knowing me, I had to try just a bit more, and added a few more ingredients.  I added a handful of grated Gruyére/Swiss to the white sauce, and also a handful on the finished top.  But under that cheese, I also added wedges of tomato and hard-boiled egg.  A great accent to the dish.

Tools:  fry/sauté pan, cutting board, nine by thirteen oven-safe baking dish or casserole dish

Prep:   Braise leeks or Belgian endives:  Endives look like a small ear of corn, pale green and semi-firm.   For either one, first wash, removing dirt and old leaves/layers.  Trim root end and top leaves, split leeks in half and rinse out the inside leaves.  Braise in salted water, wine-broth mix or broth alone till fork tender in the covered frying pan.  It will smell wonderfully incredible.  Drain and let cool enough to handle.  Use sliced deli ham or leftover ham you may have in the refrigerator.  Sliced turkey or beef can work as well.  Spray the baking dish with food release or cooking spray.

Set oven to 350°

Ingredients: 

12     small (or fewer larger and divided up) leeks,

                 white to light green part, making a shape about ¾ to one

     inch in diameter and four to six inches in length, braised tender  

                -- and/or --

12     Belgian endives (slender whole -- or 6 large-sized, halved),

                  braised tender

12     slices ham (or chicken, turkey or beef), at least four by six inches

                  square or thereabouts

1-2    cloves garlic, minced

 ¼     cup butter (4 tbs, half a cube), olive oil and/or heart-healthy

                   margarine (not water-based)

 ¼     cup flour

2-3     cups milk, canned is the best option, thinned as desired with broth

                   (or whole or 2%)

 ¼     cup white wine or sherry

 ½     tsp oregano

 ½     tsp thyme

 ¼     tsp (pinch) grated nutmeg

 ¼     tsp (pinch) cayenne pepper

6-8     oz Swiss or Gruyére cheese, white cheddar, fontina,

                    jack, pepper jack -- grated

2-3     hard-boiled eggs, wedge quartered (see under ‘devilled eggs’

                    how to prepare)

2-3     firm, smaller-sized ripe tomatoes or roma tomatoes,

         cored and wedge-cut to six

Preparation:  In the same medium-hot frying pan, melt the butter/margarine and/or oil, and add minced garlic as the butter/margarine melts and evaporates water.  Sauté gently till the aroma rises, then add the spices for a half-minute, and lastly add the flour.  Whisk the fat, spices and flour together until blended and cook to remove the raw flavor of the flour for a minute.  Add the wine and work with the whisk to blend, cooking just long enough to finish removing the raw flavor of the flour as well as the alcohol and pungency of the wine.  The roux will be elastic and thick; add milk a half cup at a time whisking constantly, bringing to heat at each addition until the sauce comes to a cream-like consistency.  Add half the grated cheese a bit at a time and blend; remove from heat.  Optional, add a four-ounce softened bit of cream cheese instead of Swiss cheese – or be evil and do both.

Roll the leek/endive portions with the ham together and set seam-side down in the casserole or baking dish.  Arrange among them the wedge-cut tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs.  Pour the white cheese sauce over the rolls/eggs/tomatoes, allowing it to seep between and under, then topping all; sprinkle the second half of the grated cheese across the top.  Crushed potato chips, onion rings, crackers, shoestring potatoes, and/or dried breadcrumbs/Panko may be added with the topping cheese for more ‘crunch’.  Bake at 350° to heat the dish and render the top chewy and golden, about twenty to thirty minutes. 

Bon appetite!

          SUMMER SQUASH

I know we’re not quite settled into anything resembling summer, but thanks to world-wide purchasing now available in our markets, summer squashes may be found.  I keep reading that there isn’t any notable difference between yellow squash (crookneck) and green squash (zucchini).  I can’t help but differ on that one.  There is definitely a sweeter taste to the yellow, and a more ‘peppery’ taste to the green.  Well, to resolve this, I almost always serve the two together, and we’re all richer for it.

Summer squashes have enough moisture in them that only a minimal addition of liquids for cooking is required.  I prefer methodically to sauté more than to boil, so as to bring a caramelization to the pieces and not leech out flavors.  Always good there.

Preparation is minimal, just keeping in mind to render the pieces to a tender-crisp state, a bit caramelized and keep the oil to a minimum.  A small bit of water or broth can be added at the onset to help ‘jump start’ steam the cooking, but don’t boil the pieces.  I’ve had my fill of mush-mash type squash.  Squash is delicious any fashion, but let’s still optimize the taste.  The name isn’t the cooking style.

I used to add a sprinkling of dill to my summer squashes, then I later went to the other side of the ‘wheel’ and tried nutmeg, and loved it both ways.  So at one dinner party, in fact it was Thanksgiving, I thought ‘why not both at the same time?’ and a ‘blending’ was born. Remember, these flavorings are quite strong, so use very sparingly, in fact, lighter than you think you should - and then it'll be perfect.

Slice a medium-sized onion to match the portion sizes of the squash.  If the squash is diced, then dice the onion.  If the squash is sliced like a coin, then slice the onion in half-moons of the same thickness.  Begin with the onion in a medium-hot pan.  Your cooking oil medium should be olive, vegetable or canola oil for the high heat, combined with butter for the browning or caramelization as well as flavor.  Add about a tablespoon of each to the pan, when hot, add the onions and let them sweat.  Then add just a pinch of the nutmeg (it works well with oil-based liquids), stir and add the crookneck and zucchini squashes and minced garlic and a bit of liquid, cover and braise for a minute or two.  Uncover and sauté the liquid away, and bring the vegetables to almost limp, with the vegetables beginning to golden on the edges.  At this point modestly sprinkle either dried or fresh minced dill, both work well – just remember half the amount if dried, simmer a minute and serve right away.

Options:   Other summer squash varieties may certainly be used (straightneck, scallop, calabacita, chayote etc).   Try roasted nuts, almost any kind, slivered or chopped to a non-invasive size.  Shredded Parmesan cheese or Romano or pecorino just prior to digging in – or broiled a bit to set a nice chew.  Mmmmm.  

             
     WINTER SQUASH    

         

Acorn squash.  Butternut, pumpkin, ‘spaghetti’ and buttercup squash.  Calabaza, cushaw, and hubbard squash.  What a sampling of wonderful things to smell, chew, taste and savor.  What a wonderful association with a frosty winter’s heart-warming meal.  I have my memories of Mom baking halved acorn squashes with butter and brown sugar, and that was heaven.  But other baking associates are out there to try.

Drizzles and bakes: Balsamic and other vinegars, maple/cane/sorghum/agave and other syrups, olive oil, orange/citrus juices and zests – see also the ‘sauces’ listed in this book, plus the aforementioned brown sugar and butter

                                                           and/or

Curries and spice rubs: oiled, then coated – red/green curry, dried sage, rosemary, thyme, garlic cumin, chili, my rub, flavored salts/peppers, sugars

Simmer/bake/roast with fruits and grains: dried fruits (raisins, Craisins, cherries, apricots etc.), and nuts:  rice, barley, quinoa; sautéed/baked in risottos, pilafs, gratins; with mushrooms/truffles, mirepoix – (meer-pwa) onions/garlic/celery/carrots, peppers, artichoke hearts, and any of your favorite flavors. 

Optional options:  Most any winter squash can be brought to tender by heat applied with a roast/bake/simmer.  These tender bits, along with other vegetables, herbs and aromatics described above can then be (blender, immersion blender, food mill) blended and simmered with broth/stock, cream, milk and/or spirits and made into an incredible soup!  A final drizzle of sour cream/yogurt, plus pomegranate or balsamic vinegar molasses along with roasted nuts or french fried onions or shallots - wow!

ARTICHOKES

Such an odd edible.  Looks like a big asparagus tip – or something that belongs in the briar patch.  In fact you aren’t too far from true.  The part we do eat of the artichoke is indeed a closed blossom, it’s a member of the thistle family, and heavens to those who first thought it might be something one could possibly eat.

I kind of feel the same way about those funny little Brussels sprouts.  Have you ever seen them growing?  They’re arranged on a stalk, like gladiolas, with a very geometric radial pattern in their placement on the stalk.  Some things in nature are just plain interesting and great to get to know.

But back to the artichoke.  When I was a kid, I loved eating each leaf, savoring them one at a time, dipped in a bit of mayo then scraped across my teeth to get that oh so tasty flesh from inside each leaf.  My only problem was – when I was little, I had two front teeth that could’ve made Bugs jealous.  When I’d scrape those leaves across my teeth to get that scrumptious scrape – it looked like somebody skied down the center of each leaf!  I eventually learned to scrape against the bottom teeth for a more successful gather.

I used to rarely eat artichokes because they weren’t all that fun to prepare, and I didn’t want to take up to an hour to have one on the table.  But here’s a less invasive idea, but the result isn’t as ‘pretty’ as boiling or steaming, but a heck of a lot easier.

 

Choose a weighty, closed-leaf solid artichoke head – with a consistent color and texture.  Avoid loose leaves, discoloration, marks and bruises, ‘dry’ looking and pale.

Cut the top inch or so from the leaf tips with a sturdy, serrated knife.  With the thumbs inserted into the mid part, gently encourage the circular gather of leaves to open a bit more and loosen up a bit.  Trim the base/stem level with the blossom, and leave a good half inch if not an inch - or more if you have it - the stem is very delicious, but only for about that length or so, and if longer, it could be peeled to remove the tough skin, altho the insides are quite lovely.  Remove the outer ring of leaves, 'clean' up the edges and trim of any rough or discolored spots.  Rinse the blossom/head well, inside and out, leaving the moisture inside as much as possible.  If you like, squeeze fresh lemon juice into the interior as well.

Place the head(s) into a clean plastic grocery produce bag or plastic wrap and then into a micro safe bowl.  Arrange the head/blossom so that the leaves are facing upward, keeping as much of the rinse and lemon liquids inside the choke as possible.  Micro on high (for one artichoke) about six or seven minutes, and if more than one, four minutes per artichoke.  Your micro may time this differently, but mine is about 1100 watts, and that’s the timing it does best.  Large artichokes may be cut in half and then cooked the same way, with just fine results.   Test by wiggling an outside leaf which should almost fall off – that means you’re on the mark.

Serve with mayo, drawn butter, hollandaise, aioli (fresh garlic mayonnaise), herbed soft butter, cheese sauce, thickened broth, ranch or other salad dressings, or spicy mustard – it’s yours to embellish.

Options:  One can halfway cook the artichokes, gently work them more open, then hollow out the inside choke (the bristly part) with a spoon.  Stuff with your favorite stuffing – like a sautéed mix of sausage, onions, garlic and mushrooms with a later addition of parmesan cheese and bread crumbs – and arrange pointing upward in a casserole dish with more crumbs and parmesan sprinkled over.  A bit of broth/stock, beer or wine added to the bottom of the casserole dish will help keep them moist and tender - plus raise the flavor level considerably.   Bake at 350 for about 35–45 minutes - half covered, half uncovered.

SPINACH PIE

 

Call it Spanakopita, spinach quiche, Ispanakli Borek or spinach pie.  Just call it!

Between two crusts – either with pie crust (half-baked to lightly golden, filled with the mix, topped or not with another crust, and continue to bake till done), or prepared puff pastry (cut a ‘bottom’ then a ‘wall’ over that to make a containment and half-cook to a light golden and raised.  Add a dollop of filling – about a quarter of a cup to a half cup – and continue to cook with a sprinkle of parmesan/bread crumbs over), or layered and buttered filo dough layers (1-2 layers of a full sheet, folded in half or thirds length-wise, dolloped with about a quarter to half a cup of the filling at one end, then loosely folded in a triangle ‘flag’ style wrap) and cook till golden and firm.   Par cook for about 20-30 minutes, finish baking for about another 20-30 minutes, or until done (no jiggles except in the middle).

Frozen spinach is a lifesaver.  If you’ve ever priced fresh spinach, then you’ll appreciate the savings by choosing the frozen, chopped offering - there’s no comparison.  The frozen is already cooked adequately to eat just as is, and does NOT need to be cooked again (only warmed), except for enough heating for the ‘set’ with the egg necessary in this filling.  Thaw packaged frozen spinach either in the fridge overnight, or in the micro at 30% power for a few minutes, or as a last resort, set in hot tap water in the sink, changing the water as it cools down back to hot again.

Filling:

2    pkg frozen spinach, thawed and wrung of water and flaked apart

1    medium onion, diced small, sautéed in olive oil and/or butter with

2    cloves minced garlic, let cool

1    pint (2 cups) ricotta cheese and/or sour cream

½  cup grated Parmesan cheese and/or crumbled feta

salt and pepper to taste (remember, the cheeses have salt)

pinch cayenne or several shakes to your liking of hot sauce

2    eggs

Options:  Add diced ham, sautéed mushrooms, rough chopped artichoke hearts, olives, capers, peppers, nuts (sesame seeds/oil, crushed and slightly roasted pistachios, almonds, pine nuts, etc) – with spicings of thyme, nutmeg, sage, cilantro, garlic – l think you get the idea.

BABA GHANOUSH

(ba-ba-gun-ooshgz)

Baba ghanoush, baba ganush, baba ghannouj or baba ghannoug

One of the greatest treats of living in Atlanta, and one of the biggest misses since I’ve departed, was going to a Middle Eastern restaurant named Nicola’s.  Nicky wasn’t happy until your tummy was.  His food was unlike anything I had eaten, and he introduced me to wonderful combinations of foods, spices, flavors and ingredients that I hadn’t known before.  One of his introductions to edibility heaven was his baba ghanoush.  A delicious mix of vegetables, mostly eggplant, lemon juice and garlic (how can that be bad?) – that one dipped a selection of breads into with your hands and then you smiled and made mmmmming noises a lot.  He boasted that his was made of eggplant that was slow-roasted, and the oils in the dish weren’t so much added oils such as olive usually is, but the oils produced in the slow roast, further enhancing and confirming that unique eggplant flavor.

I celebrated several birthdays with Nicky, and his charm and welcome will never be forgotten.

Heat oven to 275°

Tools:  roasting/sheet pan, food processor, mixing bowl

Prep:  Find smallish, dense, rather young eggplant bulbs – the larger and the older they are, the lighter they become, and the more fibrous and seedy the insides develop.  I’d say two that are each over a pound in weight, and the size of a small kid's play (Nerf) football.   Take your clean, dry roasting pan (something at least about twelve by sixteen inches) and pour a bit of olive oil on the bottom.  Cut each eggplant in half (spoon out any obvious seeds if present), and rub into the oil on the cut side, then flip the half and set cut-side up and salt and pepper, then sprinkle the garlic pieces into the oiled top. 

Many recipes call for using tahini, a nut 'butter' made from the sesame seed.  It’s also used as a main ingredient for hummus, a chickpea (garbanzo bean) based dish.  Since only a quarter cup is required, the purchase may be difficult or expensive to add this dish, unless you already have some, or you wish to make hummus as well, along with the baba ghanoush dish here.  Otherwise, I recommend using sesame oil, which is a staple you may already have in your cupboard (it literally belongs in your refrigerator).  The taste is still wonderful, but the sticky texture is reduced (which I prefer not having) and all is still wonderful with this dish.

 2     medium, dense eggplants

8-10 cloves garlic, rough chopped

 ¼    cup lemon juice (fresh is best)

salt and pepper

 2     tbs olive oil

 2     tbs sesame oil or ¼ cup tahini sesame butter

½     tsp cumin

¼     cup fresh chopped parsley (flat-leaf is best)

Preparation:  In low oven, roast the eggplants and garlic bits for at least an hour, best if closer to two.  Let cool and gently remove all the luxurious oils, garlic and bits from the pan along with the eggplant.  Scoop the flesh from the skin (or peel skin off) and place in processor along with all the treasures you created in the roast.  Add the tahini/sesame oil, cumin, lemon juice, salt and pepper, olive oil and process to a rich, thick ‘oatmeal’ consistency.  (if you can stand waiting, it’s best to just leave it in the processor bowl, cover in plastic, and let set chilled to blend all the flavors, then bring back to room temp when serving.  Add a splash of hot tap water to thin a bit, then re-swirl just a bit to lighten).  Taste and adjust seasonings.  Remove from processor bowl and fold in the parsley.  Serve in a flattish-type serving bowl (like a broad, flat soup bowl) and offer breads – ripped pita, naan, sourdough (or any wonderful rustic bread) slices, firm baked pita wedges and corn ‘scoop’ chips, etc.  Top with a drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice – and a sprinkling of smoky paprika, then circle with your favorite hot sauce about the perimeter over the top.  Diners eat by sliding the bread face-down from the middle of the mass outward, collecting some of the oil, lemon juice, hot sauce and of course, the baba ghanoush in the process.  Lovely.

Options:  Hand dice to a small dice, but not in the processor – oil-cured olives (Calamata, Niçoise etc), artichoke hearts, palm hearts, capers, sautéed mushrooms, cilantro, etc.  With these additions, it may be necessary to ‘scoop’ up or spoon out the baba ghanoush rather than customarily dragging over as with the breads, but really, who cares? 

While you're at it, try folding in some warm baba ghanoush with your mashed potatoes, or with diced up fresh steamed cauliflower - or have a great dish and mix all three!

What sounds good to your ear?

Getting SAUCED

The sauce can be the magic in a dish.  It can transform a bland portion of meat or fish into a delicious and elegant surprise.  A sauce can make leftovers become ‘firstovers’, and the potential for texture, flavor and just plain fun is as broad as your imagination.

Half of these sauces are already here in this book.  And some will be completely new to you, but I’m putting all of them together here for organization ease and for a perspective.  Read them knowing that the sauce need not be applied merely as I have offered here in my posted recipes, but rather see the sauce is a tool - a cooking associate – that can be used as easily or as complexly as your heart and ‘ear’ can imagine.

I’ll separate the offerings in categories as to how they might be used, and you can take it from there. 

GETTING STARTED - Most successful sauces will start with the FOND, or caramelization that is left in the saute pan after grilling meats and vegetables to caramelized perfection.  This fond is eventually dissolved by a thin liquid, usually stock/broth, wine, water, juices, vinegars and/or bottled sauces.

We’ll allow that most all these sauces begin this way:  The meat ingredient will be browned first (great to use the ‘spice rub’ for meats; or if vegetarian – use the ‘spice rub’ as well, on the main vegetable or tofu that is sautéed to a golden caramelization) and then removed from the pan while the sauce is being prepared. 

Next into the pan will be the aromatic vegetables - that are basic yet so very magical – as in the faithful onion, celery, shallot, carrot and peppers; plus the bulb vegetables perhaps, such as fennel, leek, and green onion might be chosen.  After the initial heat has been neutralized by the addition and softening of these vegetables (and in some cases, caramelization), then some richly flavored yet delicately structured additions such as garlic, ginger, fresh ground spices and dried herbs are added to bloom and blend.   As these all subside, then the liquid solvent, or the ‘de-glaze’ is poured into the sizzling mass and all is carefully stirred up from the surface of the pan, always simmering gently to bring all the flavors together like a family reunion.

Finally the sauce will be reduced to a gentle simmer and the meat introduced (or returned) to finish. 

Some of these sauces I’ve used for years yet have no real answer to give for their origin other than my ‘ear’.  Some are age-old, and are basically an institution all their own.  And some only make logical sense with the flavor ingredients selected being just wonderful ingredients without introduction necessary. 

Sauces to quick braise or re-heat prepared meats/vegetables in:

Several of these following sauces use bottled or prepared ingredients (I know, I know), so allow that sodiums and salts are in play outside the cook’s control - so as always, TASTE as you go, and salt and season only when necessary after tasting.  I won’t list salt and pepper for laziness sake, I’ll let you decide on that.

Proportions given are for about four servings, approximately.

New York:  ½ cup chicken broth, 2-3 tbs balsamic vinegar, 1 tbs Worcestershire sauce - Simmered together till a thickened gentle bubble; then the chicken/beef/pork bits, diced vegetables (defrosted frozen selections can be just fine here – I like the ‘stir fry’ frozen vegetable option with mushrooms and sugar snap peas) may be tossed and sautéed at a new high temp till all coated and warmed and appearing as a glaze.  Serve with pasta, potatoes or rice (I like the spiral ‘fusilli’).

Tokyo:  ¼ cup Soy sauce (look for low sodium), ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup mirin (a sweet rice wine for cooking), 2 tbs ea Hoisin sauce and rice vinegar, 1 tbs each oyster sauce and light brown sugar, juice squeezed of one lime and a bit of the zest, ½ to 1 tsp fresh grated ginger (or half tsp dried if that's all you have), 1 clove minced garlic - Simmered together till slightly reduced; then prepared fowl/chicken, meats, fish and vegetable portions may be introduced and simmered submerged (braised) till warmed through. May then be removed, drained and re-grilled briefly after simmering to caramelize the surface coating.  Serve drained of sauce, the sauce then served as a dipping side with fresh chopped green onions added.  Serve with rice or Asian style (‘glass’, mung bean, ‘cellophane’, rice stick) noodles.

Paris:  1 lime-sized shallot diced fine (or a small, sweet, gentle onion), ½ pound mushrooms sliced, 2 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sherry, ½ cup broth, ¼ cup cream/canned milk – Aromatics and vegetables sautéed first to tender, then broth/wine added to deglaze and reduce.  Cream/canned milk added as a final blend and thickener.  Meats, fishes, poultry, shellfish added to warm through.  Serve with mashed potatoes, pasta, rice or toasted breads.

Mumbai:  1 bell pepper sliced in strips, 1 small onion sliced half-moons, 2-3 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sweet paprika, 2 tbs red curry, 2 tbs to ¼ cup slivered almonds or nut of your choice, ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup coconut milk or yogurt – simmer to thick and smooth, add prepared roasted or BBQ meats/fishes, vegetables (winter squashes are great here) and simmer to thick and perfect.  Serve with rice, tabouli, cous-cous, garbanzo beans or quinoa.

Mexico City:  Chipotle plum sauce – refer to the recipe in this book (under 'Comfort - south of the border' - 'Pulled pork'), great with pork, roasted meats, fishes and fowls, BBQ, although a bit strong for shellfish.  Serve with corn/flour tortillas, pasta, rice, prepared potato dishes, or polenta.  

Milan:  virgin olive oil; 2 cloves fine diced garlic; 2-3 mashed anchovies (or 1 tsp anchovy paste); 1 small bulb sliced fennel; 1 small onion and 1 rib celery diced fine; ½ tsp each oregano and thyme; ¼ tsp each pepper flakes and crushed black pepper corns; 1 tbs. capers; small diced eggplant (about two cups raw); ½ lbs. tomatoes diced medium; ¼ cup rough-chopped black and green olives; lemon zest and juice; ¼ cup stock; splash wine/sherry; splash sherry vinegar.  Gently saute solid bits till tender, then add liquids and simmer all together and slightly reduce, introduce meats/ fishes/ fowl.  Serve with pasta, toast, rice, polenta, and/or over bitter greens.

Sauces to braise raw or par-cooked meats/vegetables in:

         Proportions are given with each recipe.

MARINARA  - TIMELESS TOMATO

Marinara is usually thought dully as a plain red sauce – or a bit more descriptive -- a ‘meatless’ pasta sauce.  But it’s so, so much more; this just ain’t no spaghetti sauce.  Marinara is an all-encompassing association between two or more separate ingredients.  A ‘catalyst’ if you will, as in science – multiple elements working more intensely and deeply after the ‘introduction’ of another element.  Marinara works with many foods, more than just pasta alone, which I might add, is a big deal right there.  Dozens of varieties of meats have roasted with it, tasty residents of the sea have braised in it, and gardens of vegetables have found happy endings in it.  And of course, we have the miraculous, infamous PIZZA!

I’m giving two basic foundations for presentation of the timeless, humble marinara.  You may take other ingredients and mix or change as you wish, but I’ll give you a place where you can start.  Following first is a slow and lovely preparation that will have everyone thinking you’re a magician; and after that a freshly wonderful and savory preparation that is ready in the time it takes to cook the pasta.

Both are perfect and delicious, and have their place on any table.

ROMA SLOW – Marinara Ebbro  (maree-nara ay-bro, Italian for ‘drunken’)  

serves four to six, with pasta or . . .

Preheat oven to 350°      Makes about a quart-and-a-half to two quarts

Tools: 3-4 quart Dutch oven, or similar even-heating oven-capable container with lid; food processor; cutting board

Ingredients: 

 2-3    tbs olive oil

2     small or one medium onions,

                peeled, rough chopped  

2     stalks celery, rough chopped

3     small to medium carrots, peeled,

                rough chopped

 2-4    cloves garlic, rough chopped

½    tsp each salt and pepper

½    tsp red pepper flakes

2     tbs tomato paste

1     tsp dried oregano

1     tsp dried sage

¾-1   cup vodka

2     28 oz cans whole tomatoes, drained

   ½    pint  (one cup) chicken, veal and/or

                  vegetable stock (or for vegetarian,

                  use drained canned tomato juice)              

   ½    pint (one cup) heavy cream, room

                  temperature or warmed (carefully

                  in microwave on 30%)

1     clove garlic, chopped fine         

1-2     bay leaves (depending on size and potency)

salt and pepper to taste (remember that canned

               tomatoes and other canned

               ingredients have sodium)

4-6     fresh basil leaves, cut in medium chop

                  or rolled and cut in chiffonade   

1     tbs chopped fresh oregano

Preparation:  While heating the oil in the pan, place the rough chopped vegetables, tomato paste, salt/pepper and dry oregano and sage in the food processor and pulse to a coarse ‘relish’ grade of chop.  Place this mix into the hot oil, reduce the heat to medium, and slowly bring to translucence, stirring regularly, and continue on carefully to rich golden brown, about fifteen to twenty minutes.  Remove the pan from the fire to add the vodka (see flavored vodkas in this book) and stir well, deglazing the pan of the vegetable fond and working the liquor into the mass, then raise the heat to medium-high.  After a few minutes of reduction, add the stock, stir well.  Next add the tomatoes, carefully crushing apart by hand as you add each one to the mass, stirring once in a while.  As the mass simmers and begins to reduce, add the bay leaves and the last clove of finely chopped garlic.  When the pot again comes to heat, cover and place in the pre-heated oven for about an hour and a half (may remain covered, on low fire, on top of stove -- but carefully monitored and stirred with a flat-bottomed wood spatula to avoid scorching).  The last half hour may be simmered uncovered if a thicker sauce is desired.  Last, remove bay leaves, add the fresh basil and fresh oregano and finish with the warmed cream stirred into the hot sauce, adjust seasonings.  Always, you gotta have fresh-grated Parmesan over and stirred in. 

Almost like a plane ticket to Rome!

ROMA QUICK – Puttanesca    (poo-tan-ess-ka)                                                    

serves two (appropriately)

Food history is seemingly always information of interest, especially when that history has great provenance to the dish.  Then there are examples where we have history that doesn’t really matter, but is fun to know all the same. Well, puttana is a professional label in Italy.  So this sauce is named in reference to that profession.  Ah, yes, for the Italian ladies of the evening, those busy hard-working gals who needed to put together something quick and tasty between, ahem, customers.  Us ‘new world’ folk need to get a bit more inventive with our etymology, I’d say.

 

Tools:  Large sauté or frying pan; pot for boiling pasta, if desired; cutting board

Prep:  Traditionally, the pasta is begun first, and while it boils, the sauce is prepared.  Yes, that quick.  Dicing and cutting the ingredients before anything is begun and having them at the ready is a best idea.  This dish is intended to be a fast fix and to taste fresh, so acquire the best and freshest ingredients possible for the maximum flavor.  When preparing the pasta, drain it with the colander set over the serving bowl or dish, to warm it.  Retain about a quarter cup of the pasta water for the final sauce assemblage.

Ingredients:

¼     cup extra virgin olive oil

2      lbs fresh ripe tomatoes (best cherry or grape type) in season, 
               diced ½ inch, or 1-28 oz can quality whole tomatoes,

               drained, chopped ½ inch, save liquid 

1      small red or sweet cipollini onion, diced ¼ inch

2      tbs (splash) dry white wine or good dry sherry

½     tsp each salt and pepper (salt introduction is reduced

               because of the other salted/brined ingredients)

4-8     anchovy fillets (dry pack is best; for canned,

                   find small-boned quality variety) or 1 tbs paste

¼     tsp red pepper flakes

3      garlic cloves, diced fine, sliced paper thin, or minced

  1-2    tsp capers, drained, rough chopped

¼     cup coarsely chopped pitted black olives

               (Calamata or preferred quality cured variety)

¼     cup fresh Italian parsley, medium-rough chopped

  3-4    tbs grated Parmesan

3-4     leaves fresh basil, freshly rough-chopped

                    just prior to adding

Preparation: Prepare the pasta for two, usually 1/4 to 1/3 pound (penne rigate, tagliatelle, fettuccini, linguini, gnocchi, spaghetti, etc – angel hair is too fine, vermicelli is the finest I’d recommend).  Bring three or four quarts of well-salted water to boil, add pasta, stir, and give the eight to ten minutes of boiling time to the sauce.  In medium hot skillet, add the oil, anchovy fillets and pepper flakes and gently render the fillets away to ‘nothing’, mashing with the back of the wooden spoon into the oil, about three or four minutes.  Halfway into this happening, add the garlic and onions and sauté gently till tender and any ‘rawness’ is removed.  Splash in the wine/sherry and tomato liquid, simmer down till thick.  Add the tomatoes, olives, capers and parsley and bring just to a simmer.  Fold in the drained al dente pasta and the reserved quarter cup of pasta water, lastly the Parmesan and basil, briefly crank up the heat and bring to steaming, stirring/folding to mix.  Salt and pepper only if needed.  The olives (you could try with green alone or mixed as well), anchovies, and capers are prepared with salt, and the red pepper flakes should suffice nicely for the heat spike.  But as always, taste first. 

Serve right away -- top with more fresh grated Parmesan cheese and smile, amico! 

Eat, now go back to work.

ROMA BASIC marinara option:  If you desire a quick ‘standard’ basic marinara with a bit more of a cooked flavor – or for the use as an ingredient in another recipe (pizza, lasagna, parmesana etc) is what you desire:  Simply sautéing one onion diced small in olive oil, adding a teaspoon or so of dried oregano and a half tsp of salt and a hefty pinch each of dried sage (double it if fresh, minced) and pepper flakes to the oil and onions.  When tender, fold in a clove or two of minced garlic till the fragrance rises, then a 28 oz can of broken apart whole or chopped tomatoes and simmer semi-covered until thickened and broken down just a bit – about ten to fifteen minutes.  Finish with fresh chiffonade of basil and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and there ya are.

Options to all the above:  You can never go wrong with mushrooms.  Never.  I think I’d eat mushroom ice cream if someone offered it to me.  But stay simple with these recipes, that’s their strength. 

The following serve about four -

SANTA FE:  ½ cup Kahlua, ¼ cup minced ginger, ½ cup marmalade (or apricot preserves), pinch cayenne and splash of water – blend and simmer to a thick ‘paintable’ texture.  With meats, roasts and saute, baste every ten minutes or so, over roast  surfaces (pork/ham, turkey, beef, salmon, squashes, sweet potatoes) for the last half hour to hour prior to finish – serve with anything.

LOS ANGELES:  ½ cup dry wine, 1 cup chicken broth, 1 medium onion or shallot, 2 stalks celery, ½ cup orange juice and/or red grapefruit juice, pinch cumin – blend ingredients and simmer meats/fishes/fowl and vegetables for a quarter of an hour (pre-diced sized allows for cooking time).  Remove solids from liquid, simmer to reduce sauce by at least half and serve over.  Serve with mashed potatoes, rice, bitter greens/baby greens salad or BBQ anything.

EAR:  Any of the salsas in this book – mostly as with Plum loco, Salsa Sorpresa, salsa verde, Tomatillo/avocado, red salsa, and black bean/mango salsas, may be spooned over the roasted or grilled meats at serving, or over the meats and/or vegetables fifteen minutes prior to finish and roasted briefly to impart flavors into the dish.  Serve with anything.

TACOMA:  Pomegranate cherry sauce – refer to recipe in the book (under 'pork tenderloin').  Simmer meats briefly in sauce or ladle sauce over roasting/BBQ meats.  Serve with rice, pasta, potatoes, polenta, cous-cous, etc.

OAXACA:  Tomatillo chile – refer to recipe in this book (under 'salsas'). Braise meats in sauce till done, or prepare/BBQ meats in advance and serve with a pond of the sauce under.

Sauces to ladle over or serve at the side:

CHEESE SAUCE – béchamel base – ¼ cup each butter and flour: three cheeses (your choice, but white cheddar, jack or pepper jack and cream cheese are a good sample, about 6-8 ounces each), ¼ cup wine/sherry, 2 cups chicken broth, ½ cup cream or canned evaporated milk, whisper of nutmeg – serve over pasta, prepared meats/fowl nuggets/fish, toast, French fries or any fried/baked potato, vegetables, meatloaf or sausages, veggie/chips dip

NUT SAUCE - Roast about a cup of nut choice (almond slivers, cashews, walnut/pecan/macadamia pieces) in the oven till lightly golden.  Let cool.  Place in blender (best) or processor and patiently grind to a ‘flour’, then add a third cup of sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt etc, a half cup of milk/evaporated milk, a pinch of salt and a splash of lemon juice, blend WELL till like a thick cream, and finally add just a part of a glug, about a tsp, of pure maple syrup (go light, or a tbs of honey if you prefer) for a finish.  Return to low heat and bring just to a simmer, re-blending if necessary. The nut sauce works with savory or sweet, and your choice of optional accompanying enhancement ingredients (very small amounts – a ‘pinch’) will dictate that direction – like whether garlic or ginger, cumin or nutmeg, cayenne or mint, wine or vanilla, mustard or citrus zest – serve over vegetables, chiles rellenos, meat/poultry/fishes, pasta, rice or BBQ’d anything.  

CILANTRO CREAM SAUCE - Blend one or two bunches of fresh rough-chopped cilantro tops and the slender upper stems, limejuice, fresh garlic, salt and pepper with sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt in the blender/food processor till lightly green and very aromatic.  Fold in fine-diced green onions, fresh cilantro leaves and/or chopped chives after blending – serve over fruits, vegetables, salads, chiles rellenos, prepared meats/BBQ, tacos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

MILD ROASTED CHILE CREAM SAUCE - Use either one or two roasted, seeded and peeled poblano peppers or purchase a can or cans (7 to 14 oz, as you prefer) of mild green chiles and whirl in the processor with three-quarters cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a pinch each of salt, cayenne and cumin – serve over any roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, salads, rice, veggie/chip dip

AVOCADO CREAM SAUCE - Just whirl in the processor two peeled and diced avocados with a quarter cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a quarter cup rough chopped cilantro, a good squeeze of lime, and a healthy pinch each of salt and cayenne pepper – serve over roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, rellenos, veggie/chip dip.

AVOCADO TOMATILLO CREAM SAUCE – simply blend together the prepared tomatillo sauce in this book with one or two peeled and pitted avocados (depending on size) – serve over roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, chiles rellenos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

GRAVIES – chicken - see under ‘fried chicken’ in this book; turkey – see under ‘oink gravy’ in this book; sausage – béchamel base (1/4 cup each butter and flour), splash wine or sherry, 2 cups each canned milk and broth/stock, 2/3 to one pound sautéed ground sausage of your choice with fine diced onions and minced garlic, sautéed and drained; beef – pulse grind in processor to a ‘relish’ - onions, celery, carrots and mushrooms (about a half cup of each) plus a minced garlic clove or two, and saute in butter and oil mix (great if a fried fond is available from previously cooked beef) with a pinch of salt and pepper at low and slow till deep brown.  Deglaze with dry wine or sherry splash and 2-3 cups beef broth.  Thicken with flour roux, corn starch or potato flour, a healthy splash of Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce to taste and ¼ cup cream or canned milk optional.  Thin if necessary with more milk or stock/broth.  Sauteed mushrooms may be added for more savory flavor – you know how to serve gravy.

TZATZIKI SAUCE/GREEK YOGURT - The basis for Greek yogurt is that it is a richer, thicker and less slippery version than traditional US market yogurts.

So, let’s Greek up our yogurt!  In a good sized sieve or strainer, lay out fine cheesecloth, quality ‘cloth like’ paper towels or coffee filters, and fill with a good quality, live culture, plain (not vanilla) yogurt.  I’d go for at least a quart (4 cups), and store it sealed in the fridge.  Believe me, you’ll use it.  Set the strainer over a bowl in the refrigerator and let drain.  The longer the better, but remember that yogurt will absorb other flavors present with it in the fridge.  It can be set inside a larger sealable bag (a clean kitchen sized trash bag is perfect), but just take care handling all the potential gloppy parts, twisting well the open end and setting that twist under the bowl.  After a few hours or overnight, give it a look.  You’ll think you have ‘cream cheese’, or at least ‘sour cream’ (depending on how long you let it set).  The ‘mouth feel’ is great, the flavor is tangy and rich, and the replacement value for fattier foods is huge.  Give it a try where mayonnaise would be used:  sandwiches, mac/ potato/ chicken/ crab/ shrimp salads, dips, sauces, devilled eggs or sweet/savory custards.  The thickened Greek yogurt, or the mixed Tzatziki sauce may be returned to the original yogurt container for refrigerator storage.

As a cool topping for spicy BBQ meat, rich game or fowl, spicy vegetables or just over a potato, here is the rich and tangy Tzatziki sauce.  The base for Tzatziki sauce is Greek yogurt, which if you need to, may also be purchased under that name. 

It’s a delicious Greek topping for gyros, but made of a mix of flavors you well know, so it isn’t all that exotic or intimidating.

Just mix the quart of thickened yogurt with:

  

 1     grated (peeled and seeded) smallish cucumber

            (small is better than large for texture and flavor

             1     tbs fresh dill, minced or ½ tbs dried

          2-3     cloves minced garlic, roasted or raw

          1-2     tbs lemon juice and/or tasty gentle vinegar like

                         sherry vinegar, rice wine or grape wine vinegar

  

            Salt and pepper to taste

Add to this for fun – a pinch cayenne or several shakes of hot sauce; Worcestershire sauce; mashed or diced avocado; minced sun-dried tomatoes, black or green olives, capers, sweet onion; or pickled or brined red peppers.   The cucumbers and onions can be pickled instead (recipe in this book) and then chopped and added to the mix.   Tired of dill?  (Like, if ever)  Well then, try mint, basil or tarragon – or add them with!  Serve with roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, vegetable/chip dip, replace any sour cream or mayonnaise element in most dishes or preparations.  

TARTAR SAUCE - Use store bought quality mayonnaise, which is always safer for the spoilage/egg question, as the makers have dealt with that raw egg issue. Homemade mayonnaises are delicious, but risky over time with the raw egg quotient.  Only make your own mayonnaise when you KNOW it will be consumed without un-chilled storage or long-term setting.    Plus, you don’t have to always use mayonnaise.  Greek yogurt, thickened creams and milks, or blended soft (silken) tofu are an excellent and safe option that works well with picnic plans for potato and macaroni salads, tartar and dipping sauces, and sandwiches. 

To the mayonnaise or yogurt, one should add minced ingredients.  The best way to mince some of these ingredients is to use your box grater, very low tech but a good friend here. 

Firm ingredients to grate or finely chop are:  white or yellow onions, shallots, sweet or dill pickles, gherkins, garlic pickles, celery, citrus zest, hard-boiled egg, and cucumber (where do you think pickles come from?). 

Ingredients to add by mashing/fine dicing are capers, anchovies, chives, green olives, fennel and fresh dill. 

Other prepared flavors to add in a liquid-ish form are Dijon mustard, horseradish, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, oyster sauce (yes), and then the expected lemon and lime juice – but don’t rule out orange, tangerine or grapefruit juices either!  Toppers?  an affordable market-purchased caviar – red or black, perfect!  Serve with fish, shellfish, French fries, veggie dip.