Getting SAUCED

The sauce can be the magic in a dish.  It can transform a bland portion of meat or fish into a delicious and elegant surprise.  A sauce can make leftovers become ‘firstovers’, and the potential for texture, flavor and just plain fun is as broad as your imagination.

Half of these sauces are already here in this book.  And some will be completely new to you, but I’m putting all of them together here for organization ease and for a perspective.  Read them knowing that the sauce need not be applied merely as I have offered here in my posted recipes, but rather see the sauce is a tool - a cooking associate – that can be used as easily or as complexly as your heart and ‘ear’ can imagine.

I’ll separate the offerings in categories as to how they might be used, and you can take it from there. 

GETTING STARTED - Most successful sauces will start with the FOND, or caramelization that is left in the saute pan after grilling meats and vegetables to caramelized perfection.  This fond is eventually dissolved by a thin liquid, usually stock/broth, wine, water, juices, vinegars and/or bottled sauces.

We’ll allow that most all these sauces begin this way:  The meat ingredient will be browned first (great to use the ‘spice rub’ for meats; or if vegetarian – use the ‘spice rub’ as well, on the main vegetable or tofu that is sautéed to a golden caramelization) and then removed from the pan while the sauce is being prepared. 

Next into the pan will be the aromatic vegetables - that are basic yet so very magical – as in the faithful onion, celery, shallot, carrot and peppers; plus the bulb vegetables perhaps, such as fennel, leek, and green onion might be chosen.  After the initial heat has been neutralized by the addition and softening of these vegetables (and in some cases, caramelization), then some richly flavored yet delicately structured additions such as garlic, ginger, fresh ground spices and dried herbs are added to bloom and blend.   As these all subside, then the liquid solvent, or the ‘de-glaze’ is poured into the sizzling mass and all is carefully stirred up from the surface of the pan, always simmering gently to bring all the flavors together like a family reunion.

Finally the sauce will be reduced to a gentle simmer and the meat introduced (or returned) to finish. 

Some of these sauces I’ve used for years yet have no real answer to give for their origin other than my ‘ear’.  Some are age-old, and are basically an institution all their own.  And some only make logical sense with the flavor ingredients selected being just wonderful ingredients without introduction necessary. 

Sauces to quick braise or re-heat prepared meats/vegetables in:

Several of these following sauces use bottled or prepared ingredients (I know, I know), so allow that sodiums and salts are in play outside the cook’s control - so as always, TASTE as you go, and salt and season only when necessary after tasting.  I won’t list salt and pepper for laziness sake, I’ll let you decide on that.

Proportions given are for about four servings, approximately.

New York:  ½ cup chicken broth, 2-3 tbs balsamic vinegar, 1 tbs Worcestershire sauce - Simmered together till a thickened gentle bubble; then the chicken/beef/pork bits, diced vegetables (defrosted frozen selections can be just fine here – I like the ‘stir fry’ frozen vegetable option with mushrooms and sugar snap peas) may be tossed and sautéed at a new high temp till all coated and warmed and appearing as a glaze.  Serve with pasta, potatoes or rice (I like the spiral ‘fusilli’).

Tokyo:  ¼ cup Soy sauce (look for low sodium), ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup mirin (a sweet rice wine for cooking), 2 tbs ea Hoisin sauce and rice vinegar, 1 tbs each oyster sauce and light brown sugar, juice squeezed of one lime and a bit of the zest, ½ to 1 tsp fresh grated ginger (or half tsp dried if that's all you have), 1 clove minced garlic - Simmered together till slightly reduced; then prepared fowl/chicken, meats, fish and vegetable portions may be introduced and simmered submerged (braised) till warmed through. May then be removed, drained and re-grilled briefly after simmering to caramelize the surface coating.  Serve drained of sauce, the sauce then served as a dipping side with fresh chopped green onions added.  Serve with rice or Asian style (‘glass’, mung bean, ‘cellophane’, rice stick) noodles.

Paris:  1 lime-sized shallot diced fine (or a small, sweet, gentle onion), ½ pound mushrooms sliced, 2 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sherry, ½ cup broth, ¼ cup cream/canned milk – Aromatics and vegetables sautéed first to tender, then broth/wine added to deglaze and reduce.  Cream/canned milk added as a final blend and thickener.  Meats, fishes, poultry, shellfish added to warm through.  Serve with mashed potatoes, pasta, rice or toasted breads.

Mumbai:  1 bell pepper sliced in strips, 1 small onion sliced half-moons, 2-3 cloves garlic, 2 tbs sweet paprika, 2 tbs red curry, 2 tbs to ¼ cup slivered almonds or nut of your choice, ¼ cup chicken broth, ¼ cup coconut milk or yogurt – simmer to thick and smooth, add prepared roasted or BBQ meats/fishes, vegetables (winter squashes are great here) and simmer to thick and perfect.  Serve with rice, tabouli, cous-cous, garbanzo beans or quinoa.

Mexico City:  Chipotle plum sauce – refer to the recipe in this book (under 'Comfort - south of the border' - 'Pulled pork'), great with pork, roasted meats, fishes and fowls, BBQ, although a bit strong for shellfish.  Serve with corn/flour tortillas, pasta, rice, prepared potato dishes, or polenta.  

Milan:  virgin olive oil; 2 cloves fine diced garlic; 2-3 mashed anchovies (or 1 tsp anchovy paste); 1 small bulb sliced fennel; 1 small onion and 1 rib celery diced fine; ½ tsp each oregano and thyme; ¼ tsp each pepper flakes and crushed black pepper corns; 1 tbs. capers; small diced eggplant (about two cups raw); ½ lbs. tomatoes diced medium; ¼ cup rough-chopped black and green olives; lemon zest and juice; ¼ cup stock; splash wine/sherry; splash sherry vinegar.  Gently saute solid bits till tender, then add liquids and simmer all together and slightly reduce, introduce meats/ fishes/ fowl.  Serve with pasta, toast, rice, polenta, and/or over bitter greens.

Sauces to braise raw or par-cooked meats/vegetables in:

         Proportions are given with each recipe.

MARINARA  - TIMELESS TOMATO

Marinara is usually thought dully as a plain red sauce – or a bit more descriptive -- a ‘meatless’ pasta sauce.  But it’s so, so much more; this just ain’t no spaghetti sauce.  Marinara is an all-encompassing association between two or more separate ingredients.  A ‘catalyst’ if you will, as in science – multiple elements working more intensely and deeply after the ‘introduction’ of another element.  Marinara works with many foods, more than just pasta alone, which I might add, is a big deal right there.  Dozens of varieties of meats have roasted with it, tasty residents of the sea have braised in it, and gardens of vegetables have found happy endings in it.  And of course, we have the miraculous, infamous PIZZA!

I’m giving two basic foundations for presentation of the timeless, humble marinara.  You may take other ingredients and mix or change as you wish, but I’ll give you a place where you can start.  Following first is a slow and lovely preparation that will have everyone thinking you’re a magician; and after that a freshly wonderful and savory preparation that is ready in the time it takes to cook the pasta.

Both are perfect and delicious, and have their place on any table.

ROMA SLOW – Marinara Ebbro  (maree-nara ay-bro, Italian for ‘drunken’)  

serves four to six, with pasta or . . .

Preheat oven to 350°      Makes about a quart-and-a-half to two quarts

Tools: 3-4 quart Dutch oven, or similar even-heating oven-capable container with lid; food processor; cutting board

Ingredients: 

 2-3    tbs olive oil

2     small or one medium onions,

                peeled, rough chopped  

2     stalks celery, rough chopped

3     small to medium carrots, peeled,

                rough chopped

 2-4    cloves garlic, rough chopped

½    tsp each salt and pepper

½    tsp red pepper flakes

2     tbs tomato paste

1     tsp dried oregano

1     tsp dried sage

¾-1   cup vodka

2     28 oz cans whole tomatoes, drained

   ½    pint  (one cup) chicken, veal and/or

                  vegetable stock (or for vegetarian,

                  use drained canned tomato juice)              

   ½    pint (one cup) heavy cream, room

                  temperature or warmed (carefully

                  in microwave on 30%)

1     clove garlic, chopped fine         

1-2     bay leaves (depending on size and potency)

salt and pepper to taste (remember that canned

               tomatoes and other canned

               ingredients have sodium)

4-6     fresh basil leaves, cut in medium chop

                  or rolled and cut in chiffonade   

1     tbs chopped fresh oregano

Preparation:  While heating the oil in the pan, place the rough chopped vegetables, tomato paste, salt/pepper and dry oregano and sage in the food processor and pulse to a coarse ‘relish’ grade of chop.  Place this mix into the hot oil, reduce the heat to medium, and slowly bring to translucence, stirring regularly, and continue on carefully to rich golden brown, about fifteen to twenty minutes.  Remove the pan from the fire to add the vodka (see flavored vodkas in this book) and stir well, deglazing the pan of the vegetable fond and working the liquor into the mass, then raise the heat to medium-high.  After a few minutes of reduction, add the stock, stir well.  Next add the tomatoes, carefully crushing apart by hand as you add each one to the mass, stirring once in a while.  As the mass simmers and begins to reduce, add the bay leaves and the last clove of finely chopped garlic.  When the pot again comes to heat, cover and place in the pre-heated oven for about an hour and a half (may remain covered, on low fire, on top of stove -- but carefully monitored and stirred with a flat-bottomed wood spatula to avoid scorching).  The last half hour may be simmered uncovered if a thicker sauce is desired.  Last, remove bay leaves, add the fresh basil and fresh oregano and finish with the warmed cream stirred into the hot sauce, adjust seasonings.  Always, you gotta have fresh-grated Parmesan over and stirred in. 

Almost like a plane ticket to Rome!

ROMA QUICK – Puttanesca    (poo-tan-ess-ka)                                                    

serves two (appropriately)

Food history is seemingly always information of interest, especially when that history has great provenance to the dish.  Then there are examples where we have history that doesn’t really matter, but is fun to know all the same. Well, puttana is a professional label in Italy.  So this sauce is named in reference to that profession.  Ah, yes, for the Italian ladies of the evening, those busy hard-working gals who needed to put together something quick and tasty between, ahem, customers.  Us ‘new world’ folk need to get a bit more inventive with our etymology, I’d say.

 

Tools:  Large sauté or frying pan; pot for boiling pasta, if desired; cutting board

Prep:  Traditionally, the pasta is begun first, and while it boils, the sauce is prepared.  Yes, that quick.  Dicing and cutting the ingredients before anything is begun and having them at the ready is a best idea.  This dish is intended to be a fast fix and to taste fresh, so acquire the best and freshest ingredients possible for the maximum flavor.  When preparing the pasta, drain it with the colander set over the serving bowl or dish, to warm it.  Retain about a quarter cup of the pasta water for the final sauce assemblage.

Ingredients:

¼     cup extra virgin olive oil

2      lbs fresh ripe tomatoes (best cherry or grape type) in season, 
               diced ½ inch, or 1-28 oz can quality whole tomatoes,

               drained, chopped ½ inch, save liquid 

1      small red or sweet cipollini onion, diced ¼ inch

2      tbs (splash) dry white wine or good dry sherry

½     tsp each salt and pepper (salt introduction is reduced

               because of the other salted/brined ingredients)

4-8     anchovy fillets (dry pack is best; for canned,

                   find small-boned quality variety) or 1 tbs paste

¼     tsp red pepper flakes

3      garlic cloves, diced fine, sliced paper thin, or minced

  1-2    tsp capers, drained, rough chopped

¼     cup coarsely chopped pitted black olives

               (Calamata or preferred quality cured variety)

¼     cup fresh Italian parsley, medium-rough chopped

  3-4    tbs grated Parmesan

3-4     leaves fresh basil, freshly rough-chopped

                    just prior to adding

Preparation: Prepare the pasta for two, usually 1/4 to 1/3 pound (penne rigate, tagliatelle, fettuccini, linguini, gnocchi, spaghetti, etc – angel hair is too fine, vermicelli is the finest I’d recommend).  Bring three or four quarts of well-salted water to boil, add pasta, stir, and give the eight to ten minutes of boiling time to the sauce.  In medium hot skillet, add the oil, anchovy fillets and pepper flakes and gently render the fillets away to ‘nothing’, mashing with the back of the wooden spoon into the oil, about three or four minutes.  Halfway into this happening, add the garlic and onions and sauté gently till tender and any ‘rawness’ is removed.  Splash in the wine/sherry and tomato liquid, simmer down till thick.  Add the tomatoes, olives, capers and parsley and bring just to a simmer.  Fold in the drained al dente pasta and the reserved quarter cup of pasta water, lastly the Parmesan and basil, briefly crank up the heat and bring to steaming, stirring/folding to mix.  Salt and pepper only if needed.  The olives (you could try with green alone or mixed as well), anchovies, and capers are prepared with salt, and the red pepper flakes should suffice nicely for the heat spike.  But as always, taste first. 

Serve right away -- top with more fresh grated Parmesan cheese and smile, amico! 

Eat, now go back to work.

ROMA BASIC marinara option:  If you desire a quick ‘standard’ basic marinara with a bit more of a cooked flavor – or for the use as an ingredient in another recipe (pizza, lasagna, parmesana etc) is what you desire:  Simply sautéing one onion diced small in olive oil, adding a teaspoon or so of dried oregano and a half tsp of salt and a hefty pinch each of dried sage (double it if fresh, minced) and pepper flakes to the oil and onions.  When tender, fold in a clove or two of minced garlic till the fragrance rises, then a 28 oz can of broken apart whole or chopped tomatoes and simmer semi-covered until thickened and broken down just a bit – about ten to fifteen minutes.  Finish with fresh chiffonade of basil and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and there ya are.

Options to all the above:  You can never go wrong with mushrooms.  Never.  I think I’d eat mushroom ice cream if someone offered it to me.  But stay simple with these recipes, that’s their strength. 

The following serve about four -

SANTA FE:  ½ cup Kahlua, ¼ cup minced ginger, ½ cup marmalade (or apricot preserves), pinch cayenne and splash of water – blend and simmer to a thick ‘paintable’ texture.  With meats, roasts and saute, baste every ten minutes or so, over roast  surfaces (pork/ham, turkey, beef, salmon, squashes, sweet potatoes) for the last half hour to hour prior to finish – serve with anything.

LOS ANGELES:  ½ cup dry wine, 1 cup chicken broth, 1 medium onion or shallot, 2 stalks celery, ½ cup orange juice and/or red grapefruit juice, pinch cumin – blend ingredients and simmer meats/fishes/fowl and vegetables for a quarter of an hour (pre-diced sized allows for cooking time).  Remove solids from liquid, simmer to reduce sauce by at least half and serve over.  Serve with mashed potatoes, rice, bitter greens/baby greens salad or BBQ anything.

EAR:  Any of the salsas in this book – mostly as with Plum loco, Salsa Sorpresa, salsa verde, Tomatillo/avocado, red salsa, and black bean/mango salsas, may be spooned over the roasted or grilled meats at serving, or over the meats and/or vegetables fifteen minutes prior to finish and roasted briefly to impart flavors into the dish.  Serve with anything.

TACOMA:  Pomegranate cherry sauce – refer to recipe in the book (under 'pork tenderloin').  Simmer meats briefly in sauce or ladle sauce over roasting/BBQ meats.  Serve with rice, pasta, potatoes, polenta, cous-cous, etc.

OAXACA:  Tomatillo chile – refer to recipe in this book (under 'salsas'). Braise meats in sauce till done, or prepare/BBQ meats in advance and serve with a pond of the sauce under.

Sauces to ladle over or serve at the side:

CHEESE SAUCE – béchamel base – ¼ cup each butter and flour: three cheeses (your choice, but white cheddar, jack or pepper jack and cream cheese are a good sample, about 6-8 ounces each), ¼ cup wine/sherry, 2 cups chicken broth, ½ cup cream or canned evaporated milk, whisper of nutmeg – serve over pasta, prepared meats/fowl nuggets/fish, toast, French fries or any fried/baked potato, vegetables, meatloaf or sausages, veggie/chips dip

NUT SAUCE - Roast about a cup of nut choice (almond slivers, cashews, walnut/pecan/macadamia pieces) in the oven till lightly golden.  Let cool.  Place in blender (best) or processor and patiently grind to a ‘flour’, then add a third cup of sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt etc, a half cup of milk/evaporated milk, a pinch of salt and a splash of lemon juice, blend WELL till like a thick cream, and finally add just a part of a glug, about a tsp, of pure maple syrup (go light, or a tbs of honey if you prefer) for a finish.  Return to low heat and bring just to a simmer, re-blending if necessary. The nut sauce works with savory or sweet, and your choice of optional accompanying enhancement ingredients (very small amounts – a ‘pinch’) will dictate that direction – like whether garlic or ginger, cumin or nutmeg, cayenne or mint, wine or vanilla, mustard or citrus zest – serve over vegetables, chiles rellenos, meat/poultry/fishes, pasta, rice or BBQ’d anything.  

CILANTRO CREAM SAUCE - Blend one or two bunches of fresh rough-chopped cilantro tops and the slender upper stems, limejuice, fresh garlic, salt and pepper with sour cream/crème fraiche/Greek yogurt in the blender/food processor till lightly green and very aromatic.  Fold in fine-diced green onions, fresh cilantro leaves and/or chopped chives after blending – serve over fruits, vegetables, salads, chiles rellenos, prepared meats/BBQ, tacos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

MILD ROASTED CHILE CREAM SAUCE - Use either one or two roasted, seeded and peeled poblano peppers or purchase a can or cans (7 to 14 oz, as you prefer) of mild green chiles and whirl in the processor with three-quarters cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a pinch each of salt, cayenne and cumin – serve over any roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, salads, rice, veggie/chip dip

AVOCADO CREAM SAUCE - Just whirl in the processor two peeled and diced avocados with a quarter cup each of mayonnaise and sour cream, with a quarter cup rough chopped cilantro, a good squeeze of lime, and a healthy pinch each of salt and cayenne pepper – serve over roasted meats/fishes/fowl, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, rellenos, veggie/chip dip.

AVOCADO TOMATILLO CREAM SAUCE – simply blend together the prepared tomatillo sauce in this book with one or two peeled and pitted avocados (depending on size) – serve over roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, tacos, vegetables, chiles rellenos, rice, veggie/chip dip.

GRAVIES – chicken - see under ‘fried chicken’ in this book; turkey – see under ‘oink gravy’ in this book; sausage – béchamel base (1/4 cup each butter and flour), splash wine or sherry, 2 cups each canned milk and broth/stock, 2/3 to one pound sautéed ground sausage of your choice with fine diced onions and minced garlic, sautéed and drained; beef – pulse grind in processor to a ‘relish’ - onions, celery, carrots and mushrooms (about a half cup of each) plus a minced garlic clove or two, and saute in butter and oil mix (great if a fried fond is available from previously cooked beef) with a pinch of salt and pepper at low and slow till deep brown.  Deglaze with dry wine or sherry splash and 2-3 cups beef broth.  Thicken with flour roux, corn starch or potato flour, a healthy splash of Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce to taste and ¼ cup cream or canned milk optional.  Thin if necessary with more milk or stock/broth.  Sauteed mushrooms may be added for more savory flavor – you know how to serve gravy.

TZATZIKI SAUCE/GREEK YOGURT - The basis for Greek yogurt is that it is a richer, thicker and less slippery version than traditional US market yogurts.

So, let’s Greek up our yogurt!  In a good sized sieve or strainer, lay out fine cheesecloth, quality ‘cloth like’ paper towels or coffee filters, and fill with a good quality, live culture, plain (not vanilla) yogurt.  I’d go for at least a quart (4 cups), and store it sealed in the fridge.  Believe me, you’ll use it.  Set the strainer over a bowl in the refrigerator and let drain.  The longer the better, but remember that yogurt will absorb other flavors present with it in the fridge.  It can be set inside a larger sealable bag (a clean kitchen sized trash bag is perfect), but just take care handling all the potential gloppy parts, twisting well the open end and setting that twist under the bowl.  After a few hours or overnight, give it a look.  You’ll think you have ‘cream cheese’, or at least ‘sour cream’ (depending on how long you let it set).  The ‘mouth feel’ is great, the flavor is tangy and rich, and the replacement value for fattier foods is huge.  Give it a try where mayonnaise would be used:  sandwiches, mac/ potato/ chicken/ crab/ shrimp salads, dips, sauces, devilled eggs or sweet/savory custards.  The thickened Greek yogurt, or the mixed Tzatziki sauce may be returned to the original yogurt container for refrigerator storage.

As a cool topping for spicy BBQ meat, rich game or fowl, spicy vegetables or just over a potato, here is the rich and tangy Tzatziki sauce.  The base for Tzatziki sauce is Greek yogurt, which if you need to, may also be purchased under that name. 

It’s a delicious Greek topping for gyros, but made of a mix of flavors you well know, so it isn’t all that exotic or intimidating.

Just mix the quart of thickened yogurt with:

  

 1     grated (peeled and seeded) smallish cucumber

            (small is better than large for texture and flavor

             1     tbs fresh dill, minced or ½ tbs dried

          2-3     cloves minced garlic, roasted or raw

          1-2     tbs lemon juice and/or tasty gentle vinegar like

                         sherry vinegar, rice wine or grape wine vinegar

  

            Salt and pepper to taste

Add to this for fun – a pinch cayenne or several shakes of hot sauce; Worcestershire sauce; mashed or diced avocado; minced sun-dried tomatoes, black or green olives, capers, sweet onion; or pickled or brined red peppers.   The cucumbers and onions can be pickled instead (recipe in this book) and then chopped and added to the mix.   Tired of dill?  (Like, if ever)  Well then, try mint, basil or tarragon – or add them with!  Serve with roasted meats/fowl/fishes, BBQ, vegetable/chip dip, replace any sour cream or mayonnaise element in most dishes or preparations.  

TARTAR SAUCE - Use store bought quality mayonnaise, which is always safer for the spoilage/egg question, as the makers have dealt with that raw egg issue. Homemade mayonnaises are delicious, but risky over time with the raw egg quotient.  Only make your own mayonnaise when you KNOW it will be consumed without un-chilled storage or long-term setting.    Plus, you don’t have to always use mayonnaise.  Greek yogurt, thickened creams and milks, or blended soft (silken) tofu are an excellent and safe option that works well with picnic plans for potato and macaroni salads, tartar and dipping sauces, and sandwiches. 

To the mayonnaise or yogurt, one should add minced ingredients.  The best way to mince some of these ingredients is to use your box grater, very low tech but a good friend here. 

Firm ingredients to grate or finely chop are:  white or yellow onions, shallots, sweet or dill pickles, gherkins, garlic pickles, celery, citrus zest, hard-boiled egg, and cucumber (where do you think pickles come from?). 

Ingredients to add by mashing/fine dicing are capers, anchovies, chives, green olives, fennel and fresh dill. 

Other prepared flavors to add in a liquid-ish form are Dijon mustard, horseradish, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, oyster sauce (yes), and then the expected lemon and lime juice – but don’t rule out orange, tangerine or grapefruit juices either!  Toppers?  an affordable market-purchased caviar – red or black, perfect!  Serve with fish, shellfish, French fries, veggie dip.