Friday, December 31, 2010

Translating red to green

GOING GREEN the other side,
CHILI VERDE

Although chili is basically described as meat stewed in a gravy sauce, which is waaay too simple to say, this is what makes this what it is.  The red version of chili is what most folks know and love, but the green version is not to be missed, a yin and yang kind of thing.

This recipe can be as complicated or as simple as you wish.  The meat may be marinated or not, or pre-cooked roasted chicken, turkey or roast beef/pork may be used – or no meat at all; the vegetable additives may be roasted or not.  You control the flavor and time, it’s great as a fast dish, but just you wait for the longer time version, as I seem to say a lot, it’s worth the effort.

Tools: cutting board, sheet pan/cookie sheet, stockpot, sauté pan, food processor

Prep:  The meat is great marinated in the marinade given below.  You may also choose to do a dry rub.  I’ll offer both, and you give ‘em a shot and see what you think.  The beef or pork meat will have a great boost in flavor if marinated in whisky or tequila after being diced.  A no-meat dish can use root vegetables and/or firm tofu prepared similarly.  They may be sprinkled with my ‘home spice’ rub mix of equal parts of salt, paprika, dry powdered mustard and garlic powder for half an hour to two hours – and even then marinated in the liquor afterward if desired.  Either choice, simply cover and refrigerate for at least a few hours to overnight.  Roasting the tomatillos, tomatoes, onions, garlic and peppers will be the most delicious option to do as well.  Both these operations may be done up to a few days in advance and chilled.

Ingredients:
Marinade and meats:
3-4        pounds (or more if you like a meaty chili)
            pork shoulder, beef chuck roast or lamb
            shank or shoulder, in 1-2 inch cubes or 2-3 lbs
            turkey breast, roasted chicken, in rough
            cubes
              ½       pint whisky or tequila (1 cup - not top shelf, but a
                              mid-to-common range quality is fine)
               5       crushed garlic cloves
              ¼      cup flour
              ¼      cup canola or vegetable oil for browning

Your meat options are not necessarily any of the options given - chunks of a kielbasa or Spanish chorizo, Andouille and other firm sausages, left over lamb/pork chops come to mind; you may blend types of meats or choose not to use meat at all (caramelized firm tofu, root vegetables or squashes are great).  Trim raw meats of excess fats, gristle, bone, silver skin and cartilage – and cut into 1-2 inch chunks.  Marinate chuck, pork shoulder, lamb and/or turkey chunks as directed, if desired (prepared deli roasted chicken doesn’t need this step).  Drain well (reserve liquor and garlic), rinse, pat dry, then set meat chunks on rack to further dry but first salt and grind pepper.  Allow surface of meats to attain just barely a dry surface, while also coming to room temperature.  Coat in flour, pat off excess and sauté in oiled fry pan on high heat till brown, one layer at a time, until the meat cube surfaces are well browned on all sides (and excess fat removed in this process).  The meats that aren’t poultry will reduce in weight, so the final weights of ‘meat’ will be about the same.  The turkey need not be browned but lightly sautéed or braised (or even microwaved at 60-80%) to an underdone ‘set’, cubed and then all can be added into the early sauce to complete cooking in the braise.  Pour off and discard oil and fat (responsibly) from the pan, and deglaze with enough water, marinade, wine or stock to dissolve the bits, pour off and save.

Roasting ingredients:
2-3          medium small sized onions, skinned and
      quartered
8-10        Hatch, New Mexico, and/or poblano
            peppers, halved; with seeds, veins
            and stems removed                      
                      10-12      tomatillos, hulled, washed, halved
                          1        lb fresh roma type tomatoes, halved, seeded  
                                          or  1  14 oz can quality whole tomatoes,
                                          fire roasted presentation (not to be
                                          roasted with the other vegetables if
                                          chosen), drained
                       8-10      cloves garlic (about one bulb), peeled, whole
                                          or large diced
                        3-4       stalks celery, rough diced
                        1-2       smallish carrots, halved then rough diced 
                        1-2       tbs canola or vegetable oil
                       salt and pepper to taste

Place all the above vegetables on a flat sheet pan or cookie sheet.  Drizzle with oil and mix with hands to well-coat the pieces, spread to single layer, cut-side up, then salt and pepper.   Roast in 400-450̊ oven for about 20-30 minutes, or until darkened on the edges and tender (broiling at the very last may aid with the char, watch constantly with this step).  Remove all chunks and liquids to cool, except for the chile peppers, which you’ll replace to the pan, skin side up, and return to the oven to continue to roast under the broiler until well charred, for about five more minutes.  Remove and transfer to a paper bag and roll shut (or into a bowl and plastic-wrap cover).  Sweat the chiles for five to ten minutes, until the skin is loose and they have cooled enough to handle.  Gently scrape/peel the charred skin off the surface, leaving only minor darkened bits of skin here and there.  Process all the roasted vegetables and peppers, (plus canned roasted tomatoes if chosen), oils, and juices from the roasting in the food processor, and pulse to a coarse liquid mash.  Add a bit of water or broth only if needed to facilitate the blend.  Makes about one and a half to two quarts.

Simmering ingredients:
  ¼   lb or one package, salt pork or fat back,
             trimmed of skin, cut into ¼ inch dice
  3    tbs canola or vegetable oil
  1    quart (4 cups) beef, chicken or veal stock
             (if not homemade, boxed is best, check 
             sodium levels and preservatives)
 Reserved deglazing liquid
  2    medium onions, diced ½ inch
 The reclaimed marinade garlic, finely chopped or
             minced
1-2   tbs homemade chili powder (see red chili recipe)
             or quality store purchased
1-2   tbs quality green curry powder or paste, store
             purchased
  1    tbs cumin, or more as preferred (remember,
             it’s also in the chili powder)
  3-5   Serrano chiles, medium fine diced (optional)
    1    bunch cilantro, stems separated from stops. 
               Stems fine/medium chopped (optional)               
The processed pepper and tomatillo mash
 ½    tsp each salt and pepper, later adjust after
             finished
                        3-4   tbs Worcestershire sauce
   1-4   chipotlé chiles, medium fine diced,
               with adobo sauce (optional)

In large skillet, Dutch oven, or stockpot, carefully bring pork bits to fry at medium heat till just getting golden, rending some of the fat. In the rendered fat along with the pork, raise the heat to medium-high and add the onions and Serrano chiles, salt and pepper and continue the sauté.  As they tender, add the reclaimed garlic and allow it to begin to caramelize and join together with the onions and chiles.  Now add the oil to the fat and bring to heat, and carefully the chili powder, cumin and curry sprinkled over the hot oil and work with spatula or wooden spoon into the bits, stirring all the ingredients into the pan and heat well in the fats.  When the aroma rises, add the stock, stir well to blend and bring everything from the surface of the pan into the liquid, then stir in the green pepper mash, deglazing liquids, chopped cilantro stems, Worcestershire sauce, chipotle chiles, and bring to a simmer.  Stir in the meat chunks and return to a gentle simmer.  Maintain this stovetop simmer very carefully, covered, stirring regularly and scraping the bottom with a flat wooden spatula, adding liquids if necessary from time to time – or cover and place in 325̊ oven – either method for about 1 to 1½ hours, and work the meat bits apart into coarse shreds and small chunks.  Five minutes prior to finish, add the chopped cilantro and blend.


Serving toppers:  Shredded aged parmesan, aged cheddar (yellow or white), asiago, jack and/or Cotija cheeses; thin-sliced fresh scallions (white and green part) and small diced fresh sweet red onions (try Cipoline, a sweet Italian onion), fresh avocado chunks, corn chips, jalapeño nacho slices, sliced radishes, fresh chopped cilantro or parsley, fresh sweet corn kernels or the corn relish, sour cream or Greek yogurt, one or more of the great salsas in this book (Salsa Sorpresa, Plum Loco, salsa fresca, salsa verde and roja, Pico de Gallo) and never forget, lots of lime wedges to fresh-squeeze just before diving in.

Options:  Leave out the meat options, except for the flavoring pork bits if you wish, cut the broth amount in half, but prepare all the other ingredients and let simmer for at least twenty minutes.  Into this lovely ‘gravy’ braise your favorite prepared main course, like chicken, pork, duck, shellfish (lobster oh yes, crab, shrimp, scallops, abalone, clams, oysters, mussels and any other wonderful shellfish you can think of); make a different kind of pasta (Lasagna – just think!), rigatoni, shells, manicotti, spiral etc); or heat leftover cooked game parts, turkey legs, fried chicken, braised pot roast, pork chops – even better try the prepared pork shreds from the ‘pulled pork’ recipe . . . ah, just have at it. 

Choose to braise the meat/fish additions in the sauce to bring to heat – or present the pre-cooked, uncoated warm meats/fishes atop a generous steaming dish of this green deliciousness – with toppers over, for a more ‘formal’ presentation.

Going green never had it so good!

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Let them eat TRANSLATION cake!

DUMP CAKES©

First I introduced you to the Avocado Cheesecake, a great example of recipe translation.  It represented a simple shift of ingredients and flavor, having a nice new surprise to the mouth.  The same with my salsas, BBQ, flavored vodkas, mashed potatoes, French toast sandwiches, my pizza/quiche and the upcoming green chile. 

Here's another dessert offering that bases on one recipe and spreads out to several great ideas.  And it continues.

These cakes are easily made in ten or fifteen minutes, not counting cooking time, and that speed is attributed to what the name implies:  Opening different ingredient packages and dumping them together into a mixing bowl.  I know I advocate avoiding processed products, but if you’re going to be, um, bad, then why argue the fine points?  The ‘bad’ here is just mucho sugar, fats, and perhaps a preservative or two.  Dive in knowing that, and if you don’t exercise anything else, then at least exercise moderation.  These are definitely great tasting cakes!



      DC -  MACAROON CAKE

A friend for whom I made this cake called to tell me she had gotten sick after eating it.  I was horrified.  In further explanation, it was revealed that she had eaten half the cake on that first day, without realizing, as she picked a bite off the cake each time she passed it in the kitchen.  In a perverse way I felt much better.  It was unfrosted (which is my favorite way to eat it too); so perhaps frosting it may help slow you down with picking bites with your fingers, thus protecting yourself from harm.  There, how’s that for an excuse?

Preheat oven to 325° F



Tools:  Bundt pan (non-stick is best) -- Butter and flour inside regardless (or use baking release spray), large mixing bowl

Ingredients:
1     box 18 oz standard size quality yellow cake mix
1     large (or 2 small) box BUTTERSCOTCH instant
                       pudding mix -- (not sugar-free, no Aspartame)
3     eggs
            ½    cup oil (neutral: vegetable, canola, peanut etc)
½    24 oz jar applesauce (about a cup and a half)
½    tsp nutmeg
1     2-3 oz package chopped pecans, chopped cashews,
                      chopped macadamia etc (light flavored nuts)
1     12-16 oz package shredded coconut – sweetened
                      is just fine, but fresh shredded (and lightly
                      toasted by you at home) from health food
                      store is amazing

Preparation:  Mix all ingredients in bowl, loosening coconut shreds into powdered cake mix first.  It will be a thick brownie-like batter (if too thick, thin only slightly with milk or more applesauce), and work evenly into Bundt pan, leveling top.  Bake for about one hour and a quarter, depending on the oven.  Center will almost produce a clean straw, so bake until center only is slightly giggly.  Allow to cool till it can be handled and top has firmed, and gently shake pan side to side to release cake from sides of pan, and then invert into cake plate.  May be dusted with powdered sugar or butter pecan icing (recipe follows).  The rich simplicity of this cake makes it great just as it is without an icing.

Options:  The applesauce addition creates a lighter product.  Trading out a richer ‘moisture’ ingredient will make a more ‘dense’ cake if desired.  Choices here are 8 oz (1 cup) sour cream, Greek yogurt or mayonnaise.

BUTTER PECAN ICING
Open one small box butter pecan instant pudding mix.  Use half the milk required and blend until smooth in bowl.  Mix with one container unfrozen whipped topping doing all quickly before pudding sets, and pour over top of cake, letting flow down sides.
  


      DC - FIVE CHOCOLATE CAKE with raspberries and a little heat

This cake was a wedding cake for a good friend.  Although I had staged this cake in a glass bell jar on the wedding table, folks tried to get to it before the bride and groom.  I had to stand guard!


Preheat oven to 325° F



Tools:  Bundt pan (non-stick is best) -- Butter and flour inside regardless (or use baking release spray), large mixing bowl

Ingredients:
  1   box 18 oz standard size quality chocolate cake
                         mix or devil’s food cake mix
  1   large (or 2 small) boxes instant pudding mix
                         (not sugar-free, no aspartame) – CHOCOLATE/
                         MILK CHOCOLATE/CHOCOLATE FUDGE/DEVIL’S
                         FOOD etc.
 3   eggs 
 ½  cup oil (neutral: vegetable, canola, peanut etc)
           1/3  24 oz jar applesauce (about a cup)
 1   16 oz package mini chocolate morsels or bar chocolate
                        that has been chopped finely
¼   cup powdered Dutch processed cocoa
¼   tsp cayenne pepper, dissolved in coffee (next
                        ingredient) or applesauce.  This
                        amount may be doubled to ½ tsp
                        for a brighter chocolate heat         
 2   tbs fresh brewed coffee or reconstituted instant
 1   2-3 oz package chopped hazelnuts
 1   12-16 oz package individually frozen raspberries,
            partially-thawed enough to remove juice,
            drain juice and save (to supplement
            applesauce liquid quantity)

Preparation:  Mix all ingredients well, including any defrosted raspberry juice, except raspberries, in bowl; it will be a thick, brownie-like batter.  Carefully fold in semi-frozen firm raspberries last (briefly refreeze them individually on flat plate or pan if necessary to maintain stable mixability) after all other ingredients are mixed; thin with a tiny bit more applesauce or milk if necessary, then work evenly into Bundt pan, leveling top.  Bake for about one hour and a quarter, depending on the oven.  Center will almost produce a clean straw, so bake until center only is slightly giggly.  Allow to cool till it can be handled and top has firmed, and gently shake pan side to side to release cake from sides of pan, and then invert into cake plate.  Dust with powdered sugar, cocoa powder or smooth over with chocolate ganache as optional icing (recipe follows).

Options:  The applesauce addition creates a lighter product.  Trading out a richer ‘moisture’ ingredient will make a more ‘dense’ cake if desired.  Choices here are 8 oz (1 cup) sour cream, Greek yogurt or mayonnaise.
  

CHOCOLATE GANACHE


8 oz quality good chocolate bar shaved or chopped/chunked –
           or quality chocolate chips
3/4-cup milk and one tbs butter, or 3/4-cup heavy cream,
           heated carefully to scalding in micro or stovetop.
1  tbs light corn syrup
pinch salt


Pour hot milk/cream, syrup and butter and salt over chocolate bits in bowl, let set a minute.  Gently stir until dark, rich, glistening and pourable.  Drizzle well over barely warm cake.



         DC -  PISTACHIO CAKE

Preheat oven to 325° F



Tools:  Bundt pan (non-stick is best) -- Butter and flour inside regardless (or use baking release spray), large mixing bowl


Ingredients:
1   box 18oz standard size quality yellow or white cake mix
1   large box (or two small) instant pudding mix
                             (not sugar-free, no aspartame) -- PISTACHIO
3   eggs
               ½  cup oil (neutral: vegetable, canola, peanut etc)
               ½  24 oz jar applesauce or 1 can non-diet 7up (first for
                            lightersecond for firmer cake) about a cup and a half
               1   2-3 oz package  or ¼ cup chopped nuts, preferably
                            pistachios

Preparation:  Mix all ingredients in bowl; it will be a thick brownie-like batter.  Pour/spoon evenly into Bundt pan, leveling top.  Bake for about one hour and a quarter, depending on the oven.  Center will almost produce a clean straw, so bake until center only is slightly giggly.  Allow to cool till it can be handled and top has firmed, and gently shake pan side to side to release cake from sides of pan, and then invert into cake plate.  Pistachio pudding topping is optional icing (recipe follows).

Options:  The applesauce addition creates a lighter product.  Trading out a richer ‘moisture’ ingredient will make a more ‘dense’ cake if desired.  Choices here are the aforementioned soda, or 8 oz (1 cup) sour cream, Greek yogurt or mayonnaise.
  

PISTACHIO ICING

Open one small box instant pistachio pudding mix.  Use half the milk required and blend until smooth in bowl.  Quickly mix with one container unfrozen whipped topping doing all quickly before pudding sets, and pour over top of cake, and into the center hole, allowing to flow down sides.
  


      DC -  P B and B CAKE

The King had his favorites, his tastes, and his translations.  You can't argue with that.  I bow to his genius.

 

Preheat oven to 325° F



Tools:  Bundt pan (non-stick is best) -- Butter and flour inside regardless (or use baking release spray), large mixing bowl

Ingredients:
            1   box 18 oz standard size quality yellow cake mix
            1   large box (or two small) instant pudding mix (not
                     sugar-free,no aspartame)  – BANANA CREAM
                     (or vanilla with ½ tsp banana oil or banana
                     flavoring)
            3   eggs
         1/3   cup oil (neutral: vegetable, canola, peanut etc) – less
                     because of the peanut butter
           ½   24 oz jar applesauce (about a cup and a half)
           ½   tsp nutmeg
           ½   tsp fresh ground pepper
           ¼   cup (4 tbs) chunky peanut butter, warmed in micro
                    till soft, 20-30 seconds
        2-3   bananas (firm, not mushy) quartered then sliced
                    ¼ to ½ inch thick slices
    2-3oz   package chopped nuts (peanuts, cashews, pecans,
                    any non-strong flavored)

Preparation:  Mix all ingredients except bananas in bowl; it will be a thick brownie-like batter.  Carefully fold in banana bits (may be nearly frozen till firm) last after all other ingredients are mixed, and pour/spoon evenly into Bundt pan, leveling top.  Bake for about one hour and a quarter, depending on the oven.  Center will almost produce a clean straw, so bake until center only is slightly giggly.  Allow to cool till it can be handled and top has firmed, and gently shake pan side to side to release cake from sides of pan, and then invert into cake plate.  May be dusted with powdered sugar or peanut butter and banana icing (recipe follows).

Options:  The applesauce addition creates a lighter product.  Trading out a richer ‘moisture’ ingredient will make a more ‘dense’ cake if desired.  Choices here are 8 oz (1 cup) sour cream, Greek yogurt or mayonnaise.

As for which ice cream to serve with this cake, do I have to tell you?
  

PEANUT BUTTER AND BANANA ICING

1  8 oz block creamed cheese, room temp or warmer
¼ cup  (four tablespoons) warmed chunky peanut butter;
             you may use less for a slighter hint of peanut taste
½ cube room temperature butter
1-2 tbs milk, add a little at a time
½ to 1 cup powdered sugar (taste for personal sweetness)
pinch salt

Mix well until smooth, slather over warm cake, sprinkle with chopped nuts (peanuts, hazelnuts/filberts, almonds, pecans, cashews etc.) if desired.



      DC -  CARROT CAKE

I baked this cake for my brother’s wedding.  A three-tier modest sized round with a heart shape for the top tier.  I had a professional decorator frost it in cream cheese icing and decorate it with the bride’s colors – peach and pale green, which he did in roses, leaves and vines.  It was gorgeous.  The twist and turn to this story is my brother got married in August, and the decorator didn’t have sufficient room in his refrigerator to chill the cake to set the icing.  I didn’t know this, and I picked up the cake and drove to the wedding in my Jeep, my Dad holding the cake in his lap.  Half-way there, the frosting started sliding down the sides of the cake, and here’s my poor Dad desperately trying to catch the slagging catastrophe as it unfolded.  I can laugh now, but wow, what a nightmare!  We bought a store cake for the pictures, but served the ‘destructo-cake’ for the festivity’s dessert, along with plenty of champagne.  Everyone went to bed leaving the remaining cake bits on the table in the yard to clean up the next day.  The next morning, my remaining cake was covered with ants, but the store bought had none.  Hmm.  

 

I’m so glad they served cocktails at that wedding!

 

Preheat oven to 325° F


Tools:  Bundt pan (non-stick is best) -- Butter and flour inside regardless (or use baking release spray), large mixing bowl, box grater or grating wheel on food processor (large hole)

Ingredients:
1    box 18 oz standard size quality yellow
                      cake mix
            1    large box not sugar-free (non-aspartame)
                      instant pudding mix – PUMPKIN SPICE or
                      EGG CUSTARD (each flavor dictates your
                      choice of spicing)
            3   eggs
           ½   cup oil (neutral: vegetable, canola, peanut etc)
           ¼   24 oz jar applesauce (less because of the
                     carrots and pineapple) about 3/4 cup
           ½   tsp nutmeg
           ½   tsp powdered ginger
           ¼   tsp cinnamon (not necessary if using pumpkin
                     spice pudding)
           1    lbs (about 2 –2½ cups) fresh-grated carrots
           ½   cup golden or dark raisins, steeped in hot water
                     or rum to soften
           1    8 oz can crushed or diced pineapple, drained well
     2-3 oz   package chopped nuts (walnuts, cashews,
                     pecans)

Preparation:  Mix all ingredients in bowl; it will be a thick brownie-like batter, and pineapple or raisin juices or more applesauce may be used to bring it to a brownie consistency -- and spoon evenly into prepared Bundt pan, leveling top.  Bake for one about hour and a quarter, depending on the oven.  Center will almost produce a clean straw, so bake until center only is slightly giggly.  Allow to cool till it can be handled and top has firmed, and gently shake pan side to side to release cake from sides of pan, and then invert into cake plate.  May be dusted with powdered sugar or cream cheese icing (recipe follows).

Options:  The applesauce addition creates a lighter product.  Trading out a richer ‘moisture’ ingredient will make a more ‘dense’ cake if desired.  Choices here are 8 oz (1 cup) sour cream, Greek yogurt or mayonnaise.



CREAM CHEESE ICING

1  8 oz block cream cheese, room temp or warmer
¼ cup milk (add last in small portions until icing can just barely be slathered, no more)
¼ cup (half a cube) butter, room temperature
½-1 cup powdered sugar (as you prefer the sweetness)
¼ tsp each vanilla and almond extracts (capful)
pinch salt

Mix well until smooth, slather over warm cake, sprinkle with chopped nuts, cashews, diced dried pineapple or dried tropical fruit, fresh roasted coconut etc. if desired.